Quick verification of proper wax procedure.
Quick verification of proper wax procedure.
When you wax a car, do you apply the wax and let it settle there for some time or do you apply it on, then buff it out immediatly afterwards?
I've always applied it on at around 6pm and let it settle there in the garage till morning where I would wipe it off with a clean towel. Is that overkill or necessary?
TIA,
Reloaded
I've always applied it on at around 6pm and let it settle there in the garage till morning where I would wipe it off with a clean towel. Is that overkill or necessary?
TIA,
Reloaded
Some manufacturers recommend the product to sit for a certain length of time. When the product hazes and creates a powdery like substance is pretty much a good indication the product is dry. In most cases, the product is very thinly applied. It is usually dry before the panel is done and can be buffed before moving onto another panel. Or you can opt to do the entire vehicle, then buff. I don't believe there is a hard and fast rule. I don't see any advantageous benefit for a product to sit overnight.
I've been using Meguiars Deep Crystal line of polish and wax for some years now and have been very happy with it. With the DC, I just do one panel at a time, apply it then buff it off. This per the directions on the bottle.
Unlike the old paste waxes, a lot of newer stuff doesn't call for allowing the product to dry to a haze before buffing. I find the whole job easier doing it one section at a time. By the time I get done applying it, it's time to buff it out.
Really, pttl is right. Just do what the bottle says for a given product. The company will best know how to use their product.
Unlike the old paste waxes, a lot of newer stuff doesn't call for allowing the product to dry to a haze before buffing. I find the whole job easier doing it one section at a time. By the time I get done applying it, it's time to buff it out.
Really, pttl is right. Just do what the bottle says for a given product. The company will best know how to use their product.
^^To add, I think the biggest thing with wax is to do it in the shade with the car cool, and to use detailers clay prior to polishing and waxing. If you do this, just about any product will produce an outstanding shine
It depends on the product. It also depends on the climate that you're in. When it's really humid out, it makes the buffing a little harder and some products, it would be harder to remove the haze. When I apply synthetic sealant (Klasse, Poorboy's EX-P) I usually wait until I cover the whole car, then buff it off by hand or PC. When I wax (P21S/ S100, Meg's #26) I usually do one side and when the side is done then I buff by hand from where I started and then move to the next side or panel. If you use a PC and a good buffing pad, it may ease some of the hazing problems and cut down your buffing time (so you'd get more 'staring' time).
The company will best know how to use their product.
Ive gotten samples from manufacturers that come in plain white or clear bottles that say "Wax, Polymer, Polish, etc". With no info other then "Let me know what you think"....Most polishes react/behave the same, its the user/application who adjusts the final product. Waxes haze rapidly, Polymers less rapidly. Proceed with common sense, as theres no miracle product, just the magician behind the hat (PC in this case).......
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Originally Posted by exceldetail
As a baseline, I'd agree. But each user will gather different product characteristics that may or may not work for another. Truthfully, i dont read any directions, lol. I kind of use it, look at it, try to understand it. Then I wipe it of.....lol.
Ive gotten samples from manufacturers that come in plain white or clear bottles that say "Wax, Polymer, Polish, etc". With no info other then "Let me know what you think"....Most polishes react/behave the same, its the user/application who adjusts the final product. Waxes haze rapidly, Polymers less rapidly. Proceed with common sense, as theres no miracle product, just the magician behind the hat (PC in this case).......
Ive gotten samples from manufacturers that come in plain white or clear bottles that say "Wax, Polymer, Polish, etc". With no info other then "Let me know what you think"....Most polishes react/behave the same, its the user/application who adjusts the final product. Waxes haze rapidly, Polymers less rapidly. Proceed with common sense, as theres no miracle product, just the magician behind the hat (PC in this case).......
May have to make an investment.
Originally Posted by waTSX
Hmm...just read the PC link in another thread. Sounds really good, and it appeals to my anal nature
May have to make an investment.
May have to make an investment.
I'm warning you - If you get a PC, the detailing sickness is in full bloom. You'll be looking for cars to "practice on". You'll buy several different products to "try". You'll get several sets of pads and counter weights and backing plates! You'll stay up late, reading on line, how to most effectively use your new "toy". You'll wake up excited on the day you are going to "do THE car". hehehehehehe - You'll be OBSESSED!
But it is fun to experiment with the different "stuff" you buy, to see how it reacts with THE car.
Originally Posted by pttl
I'm warning you - If you get a PC, the detailing sickness is in full bloom. You'll be looking for cars to "practice on". You'll buy several different products to "try". You'll get several sets of pads and counter weights and backing plates! You'll stay up late, reading on line, how to most effectively use your new "toy". You'll wake up excited on the day you are going to "do THE car". hehehehehehe - You'll be OBSESSED!
But it is fun to experiment with the different "stuff" you buy, to see how it reacts with THE car.


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I think letting it sit on the car over night might make it pretty difficult to take off. But, what ever works for you, is best. 
