Here's a question, everyone talks about the polish dusting as it breaks down. I just detailed two cars this past weekend (sorry no pics). I barely got any dusting.

Products in use:

Optimum Polish
UDM (setting 1 to spread product, 4-5 to polish)
Excel Orange Erasure

Question I have, lets take for example a door from the 3G TL, how much polish would you put on the pad, and how long would you work it in and at what speed?

Im basically trying to figure out if I am not working the wax enough (I dont think I am, but not sure) or if im using too much product.

I made a circle about the width of a pencil 1 inch in from the outer edge of the pad, worked the door for about 3-5 minutes.... No dusting, and had a greasy residue which was a BITCH to get off at times.

Worked inside a garage, on panels that were about 50-60 degrees F.

Not sure what other info I should provide.

TYIA

Daniel

 

will many have said optimum has a really user friendly work time, and i think it doesnt dust like other products

 

Polishes dont get any easier then Optimum. You may have over applied the product. I usually use about a dime-sized drop at 12/3/6/9 o'clock. Maybe a dab in the middle. You may ned to reapply about 1/2 as much again if this is/was the first panel. Less is needed as
the pad becomes seasoned.
On a door that size, I may spen about 3 minutes on the whole door. And that would include 3 passes, if not more.
As for the "residue", I really think you just used too much product. Opt polish wipes very cleanly. It wont leave a squeaky clean surface, as there will naturally still be some lubricating oils (as with EVERY polish). (Paint cleaners are a different story)

 

^^^ basically the same as Patrick ..

To start I put an X with line thickness of a pencil head and a dime size dab between each arm of the X.

and after that 3 dime sized dabs.

If you got residue that hard to get off you used too much.

After optimum I always follow it with PoliSeal to clean it up .. I imagind IPA or AIO would do it too but PoliSeal on a black pad takes 10 minutes to do the car and it leaves a base for the sealants.

 

does that residue or oil from the OP need to be wiped away before you apply a sealant or protectant?

 

I dont. Its not a significant amount that would deter sealant adhesion.

 

If you don't have a cleaner and want to take that step use rubbing alcohol str8 or a 50/50 mix with water. Quick wipedown will do it.

 

Check out how a polish breaks down here, unfortunately Optimum is not one of the polishes demonstrated but it gives you an idea of what to look for. Hope this helps.

 

So I am thinking that I just used TOO much product, because 2 cars used up about 2/3 of the 8 oz Optimum polish.

Excel so your saying that the surface does not have to be completely free of that oil? I could apply the DWG/FSUPP combo right on top of it?

Damn I got ALOT to learn!!!!

Here's another question, I started cleaning the pads, but not all the product is coming out from the inside. Is that alright? Like the surface of the pad is clean, I assume that should be sufficient as the surface of the pad is what is assisting in the abrasion of the car panel.

I guess Imma be redetailing the TL cuz I am NOT happy with the end result, But If i have a few scratches here and there, I shouldnt worry. Just the deep gloss that I wanted is not coming out. I am thinking about putting down DWG and then follow up with another coat of straight FSUPP

__________________
Kansas City/Missouri Meet!!!

 

can you use a red pad to apply poli seal instead of the black one

 

Most polishes and sealants have similiar componants, and work fairly well together. The remnants is so miniscule, it really doesnt deter adhesion of any significance. If you want to take it a step farther, park the vehicle out in the sun for 10 minutes or so to warm the paint. This will bring oils to the surface, by thinning them out. Wipe off once again while in the sun. Short of using a IPA wipedown (mentioned above) this is a quick step if "you feel a need to".

Poliseal does contain abrasives. Jess could offer a users giude as he uses it quite frequently. I would venture to say you "could" but its not really made for that type of product. I would go with black "at least". Then white for even better results.

 

can you guys estimate how much you use for each section, like how many dimes of polish would you use for the front fender, the hood, doors and trunk.

if you could break it down it be greatly appreciated

 

For my first time with the UDM and Optimum products- I used the 4 oz bottles of Hyper- Optimum and normal with 3 different pads - the exceldetail combo packs
Used 4 oz of first 2 products, a little less on the polish to do the entire car, thats 3 to 5 sets of the back and forth aup and down method as shown in the instructions.
Thats how I guaged if I was using enough or too much- how much of the stuff left for the rest of the car!
Use a microfiber towel to wipe immediatly- then wipe the whole car again before the next level of polishing
I need to order big bottle of Optimum and Hyper, my neighborhood and other local ziners all want to do their cars now!
According to the instruction manual- 5 spots on the pad of compound- then dab the pad against the car 4 or 5 times/ or smear, in the 2 square foot work section- otherwise you load the pad up when you start the UDM and it leaks thru the backing material onto the velcro
I stayed with low speed for the whole job- better to need more than ooooops~

 

booty- that meant I would set up the pad- do 2 sets of the motions- add another smaller set of drops of compound to the pad, and do 2-3 more sets of motions.
That seemed to be plenty and kept from working on dry surface.
Only had leak thru backing material with the final polish- got a little excited and wanting to hurry the finsh and be done...all that did was leave more work for next time~