Proper washing techniques....
08-03-2008, 08:33 PM
#41
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Having owned a vette....and you think your crazy about car washing techniques......here's the best thing that I learned about drying a car. I use a gas powered leaf blower to remove about 90% of the water. It's great for the side mirrors, trim, wheels and getting water out of the door jams. After that I use a 100% white cotton towel, with the edges cut off to remove excess water. I cut the edges off because the stiching can scratch the clearcoat. If you have proper polish (not wax) on the car, the water just flows off it with the leaf blower, then it's Zanio, Zaino and more Zaino!
08-03-2008, 11:21 PM
#42
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Hehehe.......polishes dont protect, protectants (waxes and/or sealants) do.
Stick with a Waffle Weave drying towel for the best absorbtion. The better they absorb, the less wiping, the less chancs of marring. Also, dont stir up a lot of dust with leaf blowers. This is the biggest mistake unrealized when people decide to use a leaf blower for drying assistance. If you have a compressor on hand, use a rubber tipped blow nozzle for handles, mirrors, seams and emblems. Wheels and tires also. Its much more efficient with the higher pressure. These 200MPH leaf blowers lose 1/2 their velocity when used at a safe distance. Also after you have used the sheeting method during your rinse, when all is said and done, open the hood and rear deck. This will allow any excess water to run off while you dry the vertical panels and windows.........
Stick with a Waffle Weave drying towel for the best absorbtion. The better they absorb, the less wiping, the less chancs of marring. Also, dont stir up a lot of dust with leaf blowers. This is the biggest mistake unrealized when people decide to use a leaf blower for drying assistance. If you have a compressor on hand, use a rubber tipped blow nozzle for handles, mirrors, seams and emblems. Wheels and tires also. Its much more efficient with the higher pressure. These 200MPH leaf blowers lose 1/2 their velocity when used at a safe distance. Also after you have used the sheeting method during your rinse, when all is said and done, open the hood and rear deck. This will allow any excess water to run off while you dry the vertical panels and windows.........
08-05-2008, 11:18 AM
#44
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Avoid the CWB, IMO. Use it on windows.......
If you insist on the CWB, it wouldnt hurt to add a little QD to the formula to allow increased lubricity while using the CWB. When you have completed drying it, use a spray wax afterwards as opposed to the QD.
Either the QD or Spray wax would be a great step, just use whatever you have! Its like adding instant slickness/gloss/protection, while drying. It really makes sense to just add this to your routine.
If you insist on the CWB, it wouldnt hurt to add a little QD to the formula to allow increased lubricity while using the CWB. When you have completed drying it, use a spray wax afterwards as opposed to the QD.
Either the QD or Spray wax would be a great step, just use whatever you have! Its like adding instant slickness/gloss/protection, while drying. It really makes sense to just add this to your routine.
06-23-2010, 11:36 PM
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Hmmm.. the CWB is great, IF you have a 100% clean car. if that last 1% isn't clean, then as you're using the blade... SCRATCHHHHH down your hood, just from one little dust particle.
06-23-2010, 11:39 PM
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Having owned a vette....and you think your crazy about car washing techniques......here's the best thing that I learned about drying a car. I use a gas powered leaf blower to remove about 90% of the water. It's great for the side mirrors, trim, wheels and getting water out of the door jams. After that I use a 100% white cotton towel, with the edges cut off to remove excess water. I cut the edges off because the stiching can scratch the clearcoat. If you have proper polish (not wax) on the car, the water just flows off it with the leaf blower, then it's Zanio, Zaino and more Zaino!
06-23-2010, 11:59 PM
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Just wanted to add onto Patrick's thread on how to select the right washing shampoos and accessories.
You’d be surprised at how well you can preserve your car’s finish just by washing it properly. On the other hand, improper washing can dull, deteriorate and scratch you car’s paint.
First, we need to choose an appropriate car wash shampoo. Most of the over-the-counter soaps to stay away from contain solvents, sodium, or harsh detergents that will erode the wax. Dishwashing and laundry detergents are inappropriate because of their high alkaline content (I still have people insisting that it’s ok to wash their car with Dawn every week. My reply to that is “Would you wash your dishes with car wash?). The finest shampoos are biodegradable, pH balanced, and will not strip your car’s wax nor dry its vinyl and rubber. Some of the better shampoos also contain natural oils to reduce the possibility of minute scratches by suspending small particles above the surface and water softeners to prevent those dreaded water spots. Even microscopic dust particles take on the characteristics of sandpaper when rubbed across your car. Realizing this, by the way, should dispel the old-timer belief that it is best to wash using only plain water (in the “old days” some hot rodders put a few drops of vegetable oil in the car wash to give it lubricity). A quick way to test the lubricity of a shampoo is to rub a small amount of it between your fingers – it should feel very slippery.
Second, we need to choose the correct washing accessories; the choice of which is just as important as selecting the right shampoo. Dust and dirt particles become embedded in synthetic sponges and wash mitts. This grime buildup eventually causes serious surface scratches that are often blamed on other sources. We strongly suggest that you use (in order of preference) only the highest quality natural sea “wool” grade sponge I would NEVER use a sea sponge. they have the possibility of having sand trapped in them, genuine sheepskin mitt (not the one with polyester – to check if it’s genuine sheepskin just turn the mitt inside out and it should be leather) or 100% chenille cotton mitts. I use a microfiber mitt and have no marring. BEWARE OF MICROFIBER "SCRUBBERS!" When using a natural sponge, use the softer flat side for your paint while the curved side can be used for glass. Also, almost any towel or mitt can be used to clean windows. Most windows even stand up to 0000 steel wool to remove water spotting.
Third, we need to employ the correct procedure:
- If possible, always wash your car in the shade.
- Rinse the surface very thoroughly before shampooing to remove as much dirt off the paint as possible before touching the car (and please don’t rush this critical step). If you have a pressure washer it will come in very handy for this purpose (just make sure to not use one with more than 1,250 psi). This step will dramatically decrease the amount of spider webbing your paint will develop from washing as time goes on.
- Also always work from the top down.
- You are better off using too little soap than too much, which will leave a residue if not rinsed off completely. True, but too little soap can induce marring.
- Use lots of water and leave the dirtiest parts of the car, the front bumper and behind the wheels, for last. Never wash wheel wells with the same mitt you use for paint.
- When washing a panel, load the sponge with shampoo and squeeze it out over the panel. Then gently wash with no downward pressure in straight lines (no “Karate Kid” wax on, wax off motion here). Use the 2 bucket washing technique here. lather mitt in wash formula, gently wipe down panel in up and down strokes, and rinse wash mitt after each panel. only wash 1/2 of the hood before rinsing your wash mitt.
- Remember never to press or try to rub something out when washing your car. When the paint is wet you can’t see if you’re scratching it in any way until you dry your car and have a heart attack seeing what you’ve just done. Remember to let the chemical do the work. If the shampoo doesn’t remove something, use the proper chemical later, but don’t try to make the car wash shampoo do a task it wasn’t designed to do. Yes. I learned this the hard way a long time ago.
- Use at least two (2) sponges/mitts – one for the tops and another one for the dirtier bottoms. In our shop we actually use three (3) different sponges/mitts. In addition, if you want to go a little nuts, use two (2) pales. Use a bucket for the shampoo and a bucket filled with clean water. Before reloading your sponge with clean soap, rinse it in the water to prevent contaminating the shampoo with dirt off the car. This step will also decrease the spider webbing on your paint.
- Contrary to popular opinion, we do not rinse each portion of the car after shampooing it. Because if it’s hot the water will begin to dry and we run the chance of developing water spots. But if the shampoo is on the paint, its water softening agents will prevent that if you've selected the correctly formulated shampoo.
Lastly, we need to dry the car. Make sure you hand-dry your car immediately after washing. Cod-oil-tanned chamois, synthetic chamois or the new waffle weave microfiber towels (which we prefer) are the best choices. These new waffle weave towels are safe and will not leave streaks like other synthetic or natural chamois. If you own a drying chamois, you may certainly continue to use them but always make sure they are clean. Then use a window towel (we recommend a microSuede specifically made for windows) to finish your windows to prevent streaking and spotting. The secret to getting a “wow” car wash is to go over the paint with an instant detailer spray with a cotton microfiber to remove any remaining water marks and to bring out the shine. The instant detailer should also contains a solution of paint sealant so it will prolong the protection of your paint and is great for in between waxing. QD's work awesome for removing streaks.
Washing your car should be a pleasurable experience and done at least weekly for a regularly driven car. I wash every 2 weeks, but I only drive >100 miles per week. Customers always ask me to share the “one big secret” of how to keep their cars looking pristine. Well, hang on to your fuzzy dice; here it is: Do not take your car to a car wash! I don’t care if it’s brushless, touchless or uses holy water. Don’t do it! Many car washes use odorless ammonia or phosphate-based soaps with very hot recycled wash water. You not only risk swirls, spider webbing, scratches or chips on your car, but also it removes your wax. So, wash it yourself or employ a professional detailer you trust to hand wash it. If however you live in an urban area (such as Manhattan) and don’t have a place to wash your car yourself and go to a hand carwash, at least take your own sponge and drying towel for them to use. This way they won’t be scratching your car with someone else’s dirt. I partially agree with this, but partially don't. I agree, never let anyone else wash your car. My local pressure washing place uses fresh water, so there is no dirt blasting up against my car, and if I pressure wash it, then it's only been >3 days since the last wash. Also, pressure washers are great for cleaning undercarriages. NEVER use the brushes at power washing places.
If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to pm me.
You’d be surprised at how well you can preserve your car’s finish just by washing it properly. On the other hand, improper washing can dull, deteriorate and scratch you car’s paint.
First, we need to choose an appropriate car wash shampoo. Most of the over-the-counter soaps to stay away from contain solvents, sodium, or harsh detergents that will erode the wax. Dishwashing and laundry detergents are inappropriate because of their high alkaline content (I still have people insisting that it’s ok to wash their car with Dawn every week. My reply to that is “Would you wash your dishes with car wash?). The finest shampoos are biodegradable, pH balanced, and will not strip your car’s wax nor dry its vinyl and rubber. Some of the better shampoos also contain natural oils to reduce the possibility of minute scratches by suspending small particles above the surface and water softeners to prevent those dreaded water spots. Even microscopic dust particles take on the characteristics of sandpaper when rubbed across your car. Realizing this, by the way, should dispel the old-timer belief that it is best to wash using only plain water (in the “old days” some hot rodders put a few drops of vegetable oil in the car wash to give it lubricity). A quick way to test the lubricity of a shampoo is to rub a small amount of it between your fingers – it should feel very slippery.
Second, we need to choose the correct washing accessories; the choice of which is just as important as selecting the right shampoo. Dust and dirt particles become embedded in synthetic sponges and wash mitts. This grime buildup eventually causes serious surface scratches that are often blamed on other sources. We strongly suggest that you use (in order of preference) only the highest quality natural sea “wool” grade sponge I would NEVER use a sea sponge. they have the possibility of having sand trapped in them, genuine sheepskin mitt (not the one with polyester – to check if it’s genuine sheepskin just turn the mitt inside out and it should be leather) or 100% chenille cotton mitts. I use a microfiber mitt and have no marring. BEWARE OF MICROFIBER "SCRUBBERS!" When using a natural sponge, use the softer flat side for your paint while the curved side can be used for glass. Also, almost any towel or mitt can be used to clean windows. Most windows even stand up to 0000 steel wool to remove water spotting.
Third, we need to employ the correct procedure:
- If possible, always wash your car in the shade.
- Rinse the surface very thoroughly before shampooing to remove as much dirt off the paint as possible before touching the car (and please don’t rush this critical step). If you have a pressure washer it will come in very handy for this purpose (just make sure to not use one with more than 1,250 psi). This step will dramatically decrease the amount of spider webbing your paint will develop from washing as time goes on.
- Also always work from the top down.
- You are better off using too little soap than too much, which will leave a residue if not rinsed off completely. True, but too little soap can induce marring.
- Use lots of water and leave the dirtiest parts of the car, the front bumper and behind the wheels, for last. Never wash wheel wells with the same mitt you use for paint.
- When washing a panel, load the sponge with shampoo and squeeze it out over the panel. Then gently wash with no downward pressure in straight lines (no “Karate Kid” wax on, wax off motion here). Use the 2 bucket washing technique here. lather mitt in wash formula, gently wipe down panel in up and down strokes, and rinse wash mitt after each panel. only wash 1/2 of the hood before rinsing your wash mitt.
- Remember never to press or try to rub something out when washing your car. When the paint is wet you can’t see if you’re scratching it in any way until you dry your car and have a heart attack seeing what you’ve just done. Remember to let the chemical do the work. If the shampoo doesn’t remove something, use the proper chemical later, but don’t try to make the car wash shampoo do a task it wasn’t designed to do. Yes. I learned this the hard way a long time ago.
- Use at least two (2) sponges/mitts – one for the tops and another one for the dirtier bottoms. In our shop we actually use three (3) different sponges/mitts. In addition, if you want to go a little nuts, use two (2) pales. Use a bucket for the shampoo and a bucket filled with clean water. Before reloading your sponge with clean soap, rinse it in the water to prevent contaminating the shampoo with dirt off the car. This step will also decrease the spider webbing on your paint.
- Contrary to popular opinion, we do not rinse each portion of the car after shampooing it. Because if it’s hot the water will begin to dry and we run the chance of developing water spots. But if the shampoo is on the paint, its water softening agents will prevent that if you've selected the correctly formulated shampoo.
Lastly, we need to dry the car. Make sure you hand-dry your car immediately after washing. Cod-oil-tanned chamois, synthetic chamois or the new waffle weave microfiber towels (which we prefer) are the best choices. These new waffle weave towels are safe and will not leave streaks like other synthetic or natural chamois. If you own a drying chamois, you may certainly continue to use them but always make sure they are clean. Then use a window towel (we recommend a microSuede specifically made for windows) to finish your windows to prevent streaking and spotting. The secret to getting a “wow” car wash is to go over the paint with an instant detailer spray with a cotton microfiber to remove any remaining water marks and to bring out the shine. The instant detailer should also contains a solution of paint sealant so it will prolong the protection of your paint and is great for in between waxing. QD's work awesome for removing streaks.
Washing your car should be a pleasurable experience and done at least weekly for a regularly driven car. I wash every 2 weeks, but I only drive >100 miles per week. Customers always ask me to share the “one big secret” of how to keep their cars looking pristine. Well, hang on to your fuzzy dice; here it is: Do not take your car to a car wash! I don’t care if it’s brushless, touchless or uses holy water. Don’t do it! Many car washes use odorless ammonia or phosphate-based soaps with very hot recycled wash water. You not only risk swirls, spider webbing, scratches or chips on your car, but also it removes your wax. So, wash it yourself or employ a professional detailer you trust to hand wash it. If however you live in an urban area (such as Manhattan) and don’t have a place to wash your car yourself and go to a hand carwash, at least take your own sponge and drying towel for them to use. This way they won’t be scratching your car with someone else’s dirt. I partially agree with this, but partially don't. I agree, never let anyone else wash your car. My local pressure washing place uses fresh water, so there is no dirt blasting up against my car, and if I pressure wash it, then it's only been >3 days since the last wash. Also, pressure washers are great for cleaning undercarriages. NEVER use the brushes at power washing places.
If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to pm me.
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#53
Suzuka Master
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