Proper washing techniques....
09-22-2004, 09:58 PM
#1
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Proper washing techniques....
Again, from the same automotive forum.....Feel free to add if you care!
Everyones techniques is different, which is fine, these are very basic procedures...
Proper washing techniques.....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I thought i would start a thread entitled Proper Washing Methods. I ve been reading some threads on other forums, its amazing what and how people wash there cars! So lets get started: The first thing you would like to do is pick a shaded area, this will help in permitting water spotting later. Items you will need for this venture are : 2 buckets, car wash, sheepskin mitt or microfiber mitt/towels, waffle weave drying towel, wheel brush, hose nozzle, a safe wheel cleaner, maybe some tire cleaner. Some folks like to clean wheels first, so I wont get into the particulars of that, its fairly easy, and basic. Apply a safe wheel cleaner, to one wheel at a time, clean with brush or suitable cleaning tool, rinse, continue to the next. lol
While your car is cool, and hopefully in the shade, start hosing the surface off with a high stream of water, start at the top so dirt and contaminants fall over non rinsed areas. Make sure to use a good stream to any side moldings and emblems, you will be amazed at the quantity of dirt hiding in there.
Continue to do this until the entire surface has been rinsed. Remember, top to bottom.....Next add a couple oz of car wash soap to bucket #1, and fill with water, add water to bucket #2. With the sheepskin in hand, or whatever youve selected to wash with, gently wipe the surface with suds from a front to back motion, again, your starting at the roof area, then trunk, then hood, then sides. Depending on your speed, and if it is warm and dry out, you may need to rinse each panel after washing, until you have completed the car. Keep your cars surface wet until your completely finished. When you find the need to redip your sheepskin in the suds, rinse it out in bucket #2, this will remove dirt and contaminants from possibly further scratching the surface. (Your going to want to make sure you have plenty of soap (lubricant) on your sheepskin all the while washing, this will help to suspend the dirt, and let it be carried off during the rinse.)Use that method throughout your washing. After the vehicle is completely finished, remove the nozzle from the hose end, and let the water exit the hose without any added pressure. Hold the hose a couple inches from the roof surface, and start at the high end of the vehicle. Chase the water across the surface with the flow exiting the hose. Run/sheet the water across the surface, and continue with the hood, and rear deck, and sides.
When all is said and done, open the hood and trunk, and let the remaining water sheet itself off while you dry the sides with a Waffle Weave drying towel. (At this point, some like to use quick detailers or Eagle One’s “Wax as u Dry”.) Start at the top, and work your way down to lower panels, refold the waffle weave as it absorbs water, a 24x30 towel is generally all that is needed. You may want to follow in your other hand with a clean and dry microfiber 16x16 towel.
You may find this technique of benefit to you, and if so, you may be able to tweak it a little to meet your specific needs. Good luck, and I hope to have helped at least a few of you !
If anyone needs any additional questions answered, or some help in product selection, just PM me !
If this thread should get enough views, I will post a "Proper Claying" method also...
__________________
Somewhere between the clear and Blackfire....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by exceldetail : 05-20-2004 at 05:53 PM.
Everyones techniques is different, which is fine, these are very basic procedures...
Proper washing techniques.....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I thought i would start a thread entitled Proper Washing Methods. I ve been reading some threads on other forums, its amazing what and how people wash there cars! So lets get started: The first thing you would like to do is pick a shaded area, this will help in permitting water spotting later. Items you will need for this venture are : 2 buckets, car wash, sheepskin mitt or microfiber mitt/towels, waffle weave drying towel, wheel brush, hose nozzle, a safe wheel cleaner, maybe some tire cleaner. Some folks like to clean wheels first, so I wont get into the particulars of that, its fairly easy, and basic. Apply a safe wheel cleaner, to one wheel at a time, clean with brush or suitable cleaning tool, rinse, continue to the next. lol
While your car is cool, and hopefully in the shade, start hosing the surface off with a high stream of water, start at the top so dirt and contaminants fall over non rinsed areas. Make sure to use a good stream to any side moldings and emblems, you will be amazed at the quantity of dirt hiding in there.
Continue to do this until the entire surface has been rinsed. Remember, top to bottom.....Next add a couple oz of car wash soap to bucket #1, and fill with water, add water to bucket #2. With the sheepskin in hand, or whatever youve selected to wash with, gently wipe the surface with suds from a front to back motion, again, your starting at the roof area, then trunk, then hood, then sides. Depending on your speed, and if it is warm and dry out, you may need to rinse each panel after washing, until you have completed the car. Keep your cars surface wet until your completely finished. When you find the need to redip your sheepskin in the suds, rinse it out in bucket #2, this will remove dirt and contaminants from possibly further scratching the surface. (Your going to want to make sure you have plenty of soap (lubricant) on your sheepskin all the while washing, this will help to suspend the dirt, and let it be carried off during the rinse.)Use that method throughout your washing. After the vehicle is completely finished, remove the nozzle from the hose end, and let the water exit the hose without any added pressure. Hold the hose a couple inches from the roof surface, and start at the high end of the vehicle. Chase the water across the surface with the flow exiting the hose. Run/sheet the water across the surface, and continue with the hood, and rear deck, and sides.
When all is said and done, open the hood and trunk, and let the remaining water sheet itself off while you dry the sides with a Waffle Weave drying towel. (At this point, some like to use quick detailers or Eagle One’s “Wax as u Dry”.) Start at the top, and work your way down to lower panels, refold the waffle weave as it absorbs water, a 24x30 towel is generally all that is needed. You may want to follow in your other hand with a clean and dry microfiber 16x16 towel.
You may find this technique of benefit to you, and if so, you may be able to tweak it a little to meet your specific needs. Good luck, and I hope to have helped at least a few of you !
If anyone needs any additional questions answered, or some help in product selection, just PM me !
If this thread should get enough views, I will post a "Proper Claying" method also...
__________________
Somewhere between the clear and Blackfire....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by exceldetail : 05-20-2004 at 05:53 PM.
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Undying Dreams (07-28-2012)
09-24-2004, 06:20 PM
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I have a 100% Cotton Made in the USA Cotton towel that I purchased for $8. Can I use this to wash the car?
Also, can I dry the vehicle using a similar cotton towel or do you NEED microfiber?
carcar
Also, can I dry the vehicle using a similar cotton towel or do you NEED microfiber?
carcar
09-24-2004, 08:33 PM
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Drying
If I may add, if you find yourself in "partial shade" that is some parts of the car is exposed to the sun, rinse, dry this part first so the suds doesn't dry out and cause streaks.
I also dry with the help of a water blade made of silicone. This removes the large spots of water. After I "push" the water off the sides, drying is much more easier. I find that drying with a MF or shammy cloth right away can still suspend some of the leftover dirt and cause scratches.
I also dry with the help of a water blade made of silicone. This removes the large spots of water. After I "push" the water off the sides, drying is much more easier. I find that drying with a MF or shammy cloth right away can still suspend some of the leftover dirt and cause scratches.
09-24-2004, 10:23 PM
#4
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carcar, you dont have to use a microfiber, you could use the CWB (Calif water blade) or a waffle weave drying towel, my opinion is that a waffle weave is the best route.
Also good advice on the sun/shade Vicman....
Also good advice on the sun/shade Vicman....
09-25-2004, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by exceldetail
carcar, you dont have to use a microfiber, you could use the CWB (Calif water blade) or a waffle weave drying towel, my opinion is that a waffle weave is the best route.
Also good advice on the sun/shade Vicman....
Also good advice on the sun/shade Vicman....
I used this product called EZ-Dri. It's a curved squegee with a silicone blade shaped like a "T" and it takes the shape of the fender llines etc.. It's kinda old and worn out. So when I saw the CWB, I had to retire the old one and I managed to finally find a replacement for around $16.00 (Pep boys). Cuts your washing time in half 'coz after you're done "blading", there is just the small water spots that the MF will take care of easily. Perfect the spot-free rinse technique and the CWB and you will find your washing will be effortless.
And oh!, Don't forget the Meg's Final Inspection #34 with a dry MF to make the wash worthwhile..
Thanks for the compliment exceldetail !!
10-04-2004, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by steamer31
Ive used Mr CLean for Months now very impressed
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10-12-2004, 09:49 AM
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Just wanted to add onto Patrick's thread on how to select the right washing shampoos and accessories.
You’d be surprised at how well you can preserve your car’s finish just by washing it properly. On the other hand, improper washing can dull, deteriorate and scratch you car’s paint.
First, we need to choose an appropriate car wash shampoo. Most of the over-the-counter soaps to stay away from contain solvents, sodium, or harsh detergents that will erode the wax. Dishwashing and laundry detergents are inappropriate because of their high alkaline content (I still have people insisting that it’s ok to wash their car with Dawn every week. My reply to that is “Would you wash your dishes with car wash?). The finest shampoos are biodegradable, pH balanced, and will not strip your car’s wax nor dry its vinyl and rubber. Some of the better shampoos also contain natural oils to reduce the possibility of minute scratches by suspending small particles above the surface and water softeners to prevent those dreaded water spots. Even microscopic dust particles take on the characteristics of sandpaper when rubbed across your car. Realizing this, by the way, should dispel the old-timer belief that it is best to wash using only plain water (in the “old days” some hot rodders put a few drops of vegetable oil in the car wash to give it lubricity). A quick way to test the lubricity of a shampoo is to rub a small amount of it between your fingers – it should feel very slippery.
Second, we need to choose the correct washing accessories; the choice of which is just as important as selecting the right shampoo. Dust and dirt particles become embedded in synthetic sponges and wash mitts. This grime buildup eventually causes serious surface scratches that are often blamed on other sources. We strongly suggest that you use (in order of preference) only the highest quality natural sea “wool” grade sponge, genuine sheepskin mitt (not the one with polyester – to check if it’s genuine sheepskin just turn the mitt inside out and it should be leather) or 100% chenille cotton mitts. When using a natural sponge, use the softer flat side for your paint while the curved side can be used for glass.
Third, we need to employ the correct procedure:
- If possible, always wash your car in the shade.
- Rinse the surface very thoroughly before shampooing to remove as much dirt off the paint as possible before touching the car (and please don’t rush this critical step). If you have a pressure washer it will come in very handy for this purpose (just make sure to not use one with more than 1,250 psi). This step will dramatically decrease the amount of spider webbing your paint will develop from washing as time goes on.
- Also always work from the top down.
- You are better off using too little soap than too much, which will leave a residue if not rinsed off completely.
- Use lots of water and leave the dirtiest parts of the car, the front bumper and behind the wheels, for last.
- When washing a panel, load the sponge with shampoo and squeeze it out over the panel. Then gently wash with no downward pressure in straight lines (no “Karate Kid” wax on, wax off motion here).
- Remember never to press or try to rub something out when washing your car. When the paint is wet you can’t see if you’re scratching it in any way until you dry your car and have a heart attack seeing what you’ve just done. Remember to let the chemical do the work. If the shampoo doesn’t remove something, use the proper chemical later, but don’t try to make the car wash shampoo do a task it wasn’t designed to do.
- Use at least two (2) sponges/mitts – one for the tops and another one for the dirtier bottoms. In our shop we actually use three (3) different sponges/mitts. In addition, if you want to go a little nuts, use two (2) pales. Use a bucket for the shampoo and a bucket filled with clean water. Before reloading your sponge with clean soap, rinse it in the water to prevent contaminating the shampoo with dirt off the car. This step will also decrease the spider webbing on your paint.
- Contrary to popular opinion, we do not rinse each portion of the car after shampooing it. Because if it’s hot the water will begin to dry and we run the chance of developing water spots. But if the shampoo is on the paint, its water softening agents will prevent that if you've selected the correctly formulated shampoo.
Lastly, we need to dry the car. Make sure you hand-dry your car immediately after washing. Cod-oil-tanned chamois, synthetic chamois or the new waffle weave microfiber towels (which we prefer) are the best choices. These new waffle weave towels are safe and will not leave streaks like other synthetic or natural chamois. If you own a drying chamois, you may certainly continue to use them but always make sure they are clean. Then use a window towel (we recommend a microSuede specifically made for windows) to finish your windows to prevent streaking and spotting. The secret to getting a “wow” car wash is to go over the paint with an instant detailer spray with a cotton microfiber to remove any remaining water marks and to bring out the shine. The instant detailer should also contains a solution of paint sealant so it will prolong the protection of your paint and is great for in between waxing.
Washing your car should be a pleasurable experience and done at least weekly for a regularly driven car. Customers always ask me to share the “one big secret” of how to keep their cars looking pristine. Well, hang on to your fuzzy dice; here it is: Do not take your car to a car wash! I don’t care if it’s brushless, touchless or uses holy water. Don’t do it! Many car washes use odorless ammonia or phosphate-based soaps with very hot recycled wash water. You not only risk swirls, spider webbing, scratches or chips on your car, but also it removes your wax. So, wash it yourself or employ a professional detailer you trust to hand wash it. If however you live in an urban area (such as Manhattan) and don’t have a place to wash your car yourself and go to a hand carwash, at least take your own sponge and drying towel for them to use. This way they won’t be scratching your car with someone else’s dirt.
If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to pm me.
You’d be surprised at how well you can preserve your car’s finish just by washing it properly. On the other hand, improper washing can dull, deteriorate and scratch you car’s paint.
First, we need to choose an appropriate car wash shampoo. Most of the over-the-counter soaps to stay away from contain solvents, sodium, or harsh detergents that will erode the wax. Dishwashing and laundry detergents are inappropriate because of their high alkaline content (I still have people insisting that it’s ok to wash their car with Dawn every week. My reply to that is “Would you wash your dishes with car wash?). The finest shampoos are biodegradable, pH balanced, and will not strip your car’s wax nor dry its vinyl and rubber. Some of the better shampoos also contain natural oils to reduce the possibility of minute scratches by suspending small particles above the surface and water softeners to prevent those dreaded water spots. Even microscopic dust particles take on the characteristics of sandpaper when rubbed across your car. Realizing this, by the way, should dispel the old-timer belief that it is best to wash using only plain water (in the “old days” some hot rodders put a few drops of vegetable oil in the car wash to give it lubricity). A quick way to test the lubricity of a shampoo is to rub a small amount of it between your fingers – it should feel very slippery.
Second, we need to choose the correct washing accessories; the choice of which is just as important as selecting the right shampoo. Dust and dirt particles become embedded in synthetic sponges and wash mitts. This grime buildup eventually causes serious surface scratches that are often blamed on other sources. We strongly suggest that you use (in order of preference) only the highest quality natural sea “wool” grade sponge, genuine sheepskin mitt (not the one with polyester – to check if it’s genuine sheepskin just turn the mitt inside out and it should be leather) or 100% chenille cotton mitts. When using a natural sponge, use the softer flat side for your paint while the curved side can be used for glass.
Third, we need to employ the correct procedure:
- If possible, always wash your car in the shade.
- Rinse the surface very thoroughly before shampooing to remove as much dirt off the paint as possible before touching the car (and please don’t rush this critical step). If you have a pressure washer it will come in very handy for this purpose (just make sure to not use one with more than 1,250 psi). This step will dramatically decrease the amount of spider webbing your paint will develop from washing as time goes on.
- Also always work from the top down.
- You are better off using too little soap than too much, which will leave a residue if not rinsed off completely.
- Use lots of water and leave the dirtiest parts of the car, the front bumper and behind the wheels, for last.
- When washing a panel, load the sponge with shampoo and squeeze it out over the panel. Then gently wash with no downward pressure in straight lines (no “Karate Kid” wax on, wax off motion here).
- Remember never to press or try to rub something out when washing your car. When the paint is wet you can’t see if you’re scratching it in any way until you dry your car and have a heart attack seeing what you’ve just done. Remember to let the chemical do the work. If the shampoo doesn’t remove something, use the proper chemical later, but don’t try to make the car wash shampoo do a task it wasn’t designed to do.
- Use at least two (2) sponges/mitts – one for the tops and another one for the dirtier bottoms. In our shop we actually use three (3) different sponges/mitts. In addition, if you want to go a little nuts, use two (2) pales. Use a bucket for the shampoo and a bucket filled with clean water. Before reloading your sponge with clean soap, rinse it in the water to prevent contaminating the shampoo with dirt off the car. This step will also decrease the spider webbing on your paint.
- Contrary to popular opinion, we do not rinse each portion of the car after shampooing it. Because if it’s hot the water will begin to dry and we run the chance of developing water spots. But if the shampoo is on the paint, its water softening agents will prevent that if you've selected the correctly formulated shampoo.
Lastly, we need to dry the car. Make sure you hand-dry your car immediately after washing. Cod-oil-tanned chamois, synthetic chamois or the new waffle weave microfiber towels (which we prefer) are the best choices. These new waffle weave towels are safe and will not leave streaks like other synthetic or natural chamois. If you own a drying chamois, you may certainly continue to use them but always make sure they are clean. Then use a window towel (we recommend a microSuede specifically made for windows) to finish your windows to prevent streaking and spotting. The secret to getting a “wow” car wash is to go over the paint with an instant detailer spray with a cotton microfiber to remove any remaining water marks and to bring out the shine. The instant detailer should also contains a solution of paint sealant so it will prolong the protection of your paint and is great for in between waxing.
Washing your car should be a pleasurable experience and done at least weekly for a regularly driven car. Customers always ask me to share the “one big secret” of how to keep their cars looking pristine. Well, hang on to your fuzzy dice; here it is: Do not take your car to a car wash! I don’t care if it’s brushless, touchless or uses holy water. Don’t do it! Many car washes use odorless ammonia or phosphate-based soaps with very hot recycled wash water. You not only risk swirls, spider webbing, scratches or chips on your car, but also it removes your wax. So, wash it yourself or employ a professional detailer you trust to hand wash it. If however you live in an urban area (such as Manhattan) and don’t have a place to wash your car yourself and go to a hand carwash, at least take your own sponge and drying towel for them to use. This way they won’t be scratching your car with someone else’s dirt.
If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to pm me.
12-02-2004, 11:58 AM
#10
Tm Nghthwk Wingnut Monkey
[QUOTE=Vicman17]
And oh!, Don't forget the Meg's Final Inspection #34 with a dry MF to make the wash worthwhile..
QUOTE]
What is Meguires final inspection #34? I use NXT tech spray are they comparable?
Great thread.
And oh!, Don't forget the Meg's Final Inspection #34 with a dry MF to make the wash worthwhile..
QUOTE]
What is Meguires final inspection #34? I use NXT tech spray are they comparable?
Great thread.
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Riverhouse (11-29-2013)
12-02-2004, 12:37 PM
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"When all is said and done, open the hood and trunk, and let the remaining water sheet itself off while you dry the sides with a Waffle Weave drying towel. (At this point, some like to use quick detailers or Eagle One’s “Wax as u Dry”.) Start at the top, and work your way down to lower panels, refold the waffle weave as it absorbs water, a 24x30 towel is generally all that is needed. You may want to follow in your other hand with a clean and dry microfiber 16x16 towel. "
12-02-2004, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 05BlackTL
What is Meguires final inspection #34? I use NXT tech spray are they comparable?
Great thread.
Great thread.
It's a QD spray from the Meguiar's Professional line (beige bottle). It doesn't give as much sheen as the Meg's Quik Detailer but it lasts much longer and apparently, it's shop safe (??).
I use it too when applying Klasse AIO as a lube.
NXT spray wax is comparable to Eagle One WAUD 'coz it contains diluted wax.
03-22-2005, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeDDynamics
Well, hang on to your fuzzy dice; here it is: Do not take your car to a car wash! I don’t care if it’s brushless, touchless or uses holy water. Don’t do it! Many car washes use odorless ammonia or phosphate-based soaps with very hot recycled wash water. You not only risk swirls, spider webbing, scratches or chips on your car, but also it removes your wax. So, wash it yourself or employ a professional detailer you trust to hand wash it. If however you live in an urban area (such as Manhattan) and don’t have a place to wash your car yourself and go to a hand carwash, at least take your own sponge and drying towel for them to use. This way they won’t be scratching your car with someone else’s dirt.
I've been wondering about those spray carwashes and stuff since I live in an apt and you're not allowed to do bucket washing, I have to find another alternative. The problem is that the only time I can wash my car properly is when I drive 3 hours to go to my parents house for a weekend.
So, guess just find a hand wash place or something huh? Any other recommendations for someone in my similiar situation?
Thanks again!
10-24-2005, 01:45 PM
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I have so much too learn. But this thread and its participates have given me a solid foundation to start with. I wish I saw this thread earlier and paid more attention towards the care of my car. Either way, I'm taking alot from the advice and proper washing procedures being shared. Thanks for helping and educated a rookie. Much appreciated.
10-24-2005, 03:01 PM
#15
Originally Posted by architectonic
I have so much too learn. But this thread and its participates have given me a solid foundation to start with. I wish I saw this thread earlier and paid more attention towards the care of my car. Either way, I'm taking alot from the advice and proper washing procedures being shared. Thanks for helping and educated a rookie. Much appreciated.
10-25-2005, 09:34 AM
#17
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Originally Posted by architectonic
I have so much too learn. But this thread and its participates have given me a solid foundation to start with. I wish I saw this thread earlier and paid more attention towards the care of my car. Either way, I'm taking alot from the advice and proper washing procedures being shared. Thanks for helping and educated a rookie. Much appreciated.
JonM (fellow Architect)
{each one / teach one][then student /becomes teacher}
07-30-2006, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Smalls
I always thought the CWB was a bad idea. Becuase cant you essentially drag those suspended particles of dirt across your paint with that?
Yes, the CWB is a bad idea. Don't use it. You are essentially taking a perfectly flat piece of rubber and dragging any remaining dust/dirt particles across your paint as you dry it.
100% cotton terrycloth towel
07-30-2006, 02:45 PM
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I know it depends on how dirty your car is but how often should I rinse in bucket #2? Can I do the whole roof with out recharging, then more often when I get to the lower portion. Also what do you guys think about those brushes from Megs, like the versa angle brush http://www.meguiars.com/?car-washing...gle-Body-Brush ? BTW Patrick if you could spare the time I would read the claying how to. You and some of the other Pro's are kind of like E F Hutton.. LOL
07-31-2006, 12:52 AM
#20
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BTW Patrick if you could spare the time I would read the claying how to. You and some of the other Pro's are kind of like E F Hutton.. LOL
07-31-2006, 03:23 AM
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If this thread should get enough views, I will post a "Proper Claying" method also... I would read the claying post... EF Hutton was an investment company many years ago....their pitch was "when EF Hutton talks, people listen. I guess Im dating myself. 
Bad reference
Bad reference
09-04-2006, 01:51 PM
#23
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Yes, I am interested in the clay bar. I read a little bit about it somewhere else, but would like some tutilage in this neighborhood from someone who has done it on their own car!
09-04-2006, 02:18 PM
#24
Originally Posted by sdaeb02
Yes, I am interested in the clay bar. I read a little bit about it somewhere else, but would like some tutilage in this neighborhood from someone who has done it on their own car!
09-05-2006, 02:18 AM
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Claying is really not hard. Just just have to get over the fear and just do it. You can practice on the rear window or windshield so you can get the feel of it. If you dont use enough lube the clay will grab and not move. If this happends it generally will not hurt the paint. Just inspect the clay every so often and kneed it for fresh clay. Most important of all..... Tear the bar into atleast 2 or 3 pieces, if you drop the clay on the ground its toast. Throw it away. Good luck
09-06-2006, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
"Most important of all..... Tear the bar into atleast 2 or 3 pieces, if you drop the clay on the ground its toast. Throw it away."
That is the best advice you can get.
Ill add to it: get two bars so you are never stuck with sandy clay. Not much worse you can do to your car than sandy clay.
I carry around a pail to put the clay in and hope when the clay slips it falls into the pail.
"Most important of all..... Tear the bar into atleast 2 or 3 pieces, if you drop the clay on the ground its toast. Throw it away."
That is the best advice you can get.
Ill add to it: get two bars so you are never stuck with sandy clay. Not much worse you can do to your car than sandy clay.
I carry around a pail to put the clay in and hope when the clay slips it falls into the pail.
09-10-2006, 01:03 PM
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Where could I buy the best waffle weave drying towel ? Ive seen a couple on sale but would like some advice on where i could buy a high quality one at a good price , any suggestions ?
09-10-2006, 01:51 PM
#30
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Welcome to the forum....Come on over to Wash and Wax and ask! Youll get many responses from avid detailiers and auto enthusiasts alike.........
09-10-2006, 03:38 PM
#31
Originally Posted by 3.2TypeS
Where could I buy the best waffle weave drying towel ? Ive seen a couple on sale but would like some advice on where i could buy a high quality one at a good price , any suggestions ?
09-23-2006, 02:15 PM
#32
Originally Posted by SeanieTSX
Yes, the CWB is a bad idea. Don't use it. You are essentially taking a perfectly flat piece of rubber and dragging any remaining dust/dirt particles across your paint as you dry it.
100% cotton terrycloth towel
100% cotton terrycloth towel
the cwb has a ridge that scoops the water and dirt. It is more likely to scoop it out of the way than grind it in. Any cloth you use is more likely to capture dirt and rub/grind it in.
10-10-2006, 10:04 AM
#35
Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
so CWB good or bad??? 
10-30-2006, 08:53 PM
#36
13.5buysit
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: DFW
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using clay
Take your car to a pro first and watch him do it. You can really screw up a dark color car ( red, black, Dk blue ) if you apply to much pressure or spend to much time trying to rub out a spot that's actually trash in the paint. Wax it every 3 months and use Meguier's Next Generation. Next Generation gives it the wet look and birds will slide rite off. Wash it right and you can wax it less. If you use a brush make sure it's hogs hair.
01-25-2007, 08:16 PM
#38
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Just rinse the sheepskin in some soapy water, rinse, and hang dry, or wring out and lay flat out of the sun.
Microfibers and waffle weaves should all be washed together with regular laundry detergent or charliesoap, dry at a medium temp setting. Remove and fold while still slightly damp.
Microfibers and waffle weaves should all be washed together with regular laundry detergent or charliesoap, dry at a medium temp setting. Remove and fold while still slightly damp.
03-19-2007, 01:33 PM
#40
TSXRCR22
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Originally Posted by MikeDDynamics
Just wanted to add onto Patrick's thread on how to select the right washing shampoos and accessories.
You’d be surprised at how well you can preserve your car’s finish just by washing it properly. On the other hand, improper washing can dull, deteriorate and scratch you car’s paint.
First, we need to choose an appropriate car wash shampoo. Most of the over-the-counter soaps to stay away from contain solvents, sodium, or harsh detergents that will erode the wax. Dishwashing and laundry detergents are inappropriate because of their high alkaline content (I still have people insisting that it’s ok to wash their car with Dawn every week. My reply to that is “Would you wash your dishes with car wash?). The finest shampoos are biodegradable, pH balanced, and will not strip your car’s wax nor dry its vinyl and rubber. Some of the better shampoos also contain natural oils to reduce the possibility of minute scratches by suspending small particles above the surface and water softeners to prevent those dreaded water spots. Even microscopic dust particles take on the characteristics of sandpaper when rubbed across your car. Realizing this, by the way, should dispel the old-timer belief that it is best to wash using only plain water (in the “old days” some hot rodders put a few drops of vegetable oil in the car wash to give it lubricity). A quick way to test the lubricity of a shampoo is to rub a small amount of it between your fingers – it should feel very slippery.
Second, we need to choose the correct washing accessories; the choice of which is just as important as selecting the right shampoo. Dust and dirt particles become embedded in synthetic sponges and wash mitts. This grime buildup eventually causes serious surface scratches that are often blamed on other sources. We strongly suggest that you use (in order of preference) only the highest quality natural sea “wool” grade sponge, genuine sheepskin mitt (not the one with polyester – to check if it’s genuine sheepskin just turn the mitt inside out and it should be leather) or 100% chenille cotton mitts. When using a natural sponge, use the softer flat side for your paint while the curved side can be used for glass.
Third, we need to employ the correct procedure:
- If possible, always wash your car in the shade.
- Rinse the surface very thoroughly before shampooing to remove as much dirt off the paint as possible before touching the car (and please don’t rush this critical step). If you have a pressure washer it will come in very handy for this purpose (just make sure to not use one with more than 1,250 psi). This step will dramatically decrease the amount of spider webbing your paint will develop from washing as time goes on.
- Also always work from the top down.
- You are better off using too little soap than too much, which will leave a residue if not rinsed off completely.
- Use lots of water and leave the dirtiest parts of the car, the front bumper and behind the wheels, for last.
- When washing a panel, load the sponge with shampoo and squeeze it out over the panel. Then gently wash with no downward pressure in straight lines (no “Karate Kid” wax on, wax off motion here).
- Remember never to press or try to rub something out when washing your car. When the paint is wet you can’t see if you’re scratching it in any way until you dry your car and have a heart attack seeing what you’ve just done. Remember to let the chemical do the work. If the shampoo doesn’t remove something, use the proper chemical later, but don’t try to make the car wash shampoo do a task it wasn’t designed to do.
- Use at least two (2) sponges/mitts – one for the tops and another one for the dirtier bottoms. In our shop we actually use three (3) different sponges/mitts. In addition, if you want to go a little nuts, use two (2) pales. Use a bucket for the shampoo and a bucket filled with clean water. Before reloading your sponge with clean soap, rinse it in the water to prevent contaminating the shampoo with dirt off the car. This step will also decrease the spider webbing on your paint.
- Contrary to popular opinion, we do not rinse each portion of the car after shampooing it. Because if it’s hot the water will begin to dry and we run the chance of developing water spots. But if the shampoo is on the paint, its water softening agents will prevent that if you've selected the correctly formulated shampoo.
Lastly, we need to dry the car. Make sure you hand-dry your car immediately after washing. Cod-oil-tanned chamois, synthetic chamois or the new waffle weave microfiber towels (which we prefer) are the best choices. These new waffle weave towels are safe and will not leave streaks like other synthetic or natural chamois. If you own a drying chamois, you may certainly continue to use them but always make sure they are clean. Then use a window towel (we recommend a microSuede specifically made for windows) to finish your windows to prevent streaking and spotting. The secret to getting a “wow” car wash is to go over the paint with an instant detailer spray with a cotton microfiber to remove any remaining water marks and to bring out the shine. The instant detailer should also contains a solution of paint sealant so it will prolong the protection of your paint and is great for in between waxing.
Washing your car should be a pleasurable experience and done at least weekly for a regularly driven car. Customers always ask me to share the “one big secret” of how to keep their cars looking pristine. Well, hang on to your fuzzy dice; here it is: Do not take your car to a car wash! I don’t care if it’s brushless, touchless or uses holy water. Don’t do it! Many car washes use odorless ammonia or phosphate-based soaps with very hot recycled wash water. You not only risk swirls, spider webbing, scratches or chips on your car, but also it removes your wax. So, wash it yourself or employ a professional detailer you trust to hand wash it. If however you live in an urban area (such as Manhattan) and don’t have a place to wash your car yourself and go to a hand carwash, at least take your own sponge and drying towel for them to use. This way they won’t be scratching your car with someone else’s dirt.
If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to pm me.
You’d be surprised at how well you can preserve your car’s finish just by washing it properly. On the other hand, improper washing can dull, deteriorate and scratch you car’s paint.
First, we need to choose an appropriate car wash shampoo. Most of the over-the-counter soaps to stay away from contain solvents, sodium, or harsh detergents that will erode the wax. Dishwashing and laundry detergents are inappropriate because of their high alkaline content (I still have people insisting that it’s ok to wash their car with Dawn every week. My reply to that is “Would you wash your dishes with car wash?). The finest shampoos are biodegradable, pH balanced, and will not strip your car’s wax nor dry its vinyl and rubber. Some of the better shampoos also contain natural oils to reduce the possibility of minute scratches by suspending small particles above the surface and water softeners to prevent those dreaded water spots. Even microscopic dust particles take on the characteristics of sandpaper when rubbed across your car. Realizing this, by the way, should dispel the old-timer belief that it is best to wash using only plain water (in the “old days” some hot rodders put a few drops of vegetable oil in the car wash to give it lubricity). A quick way to test the lubricity of a shampoo is to rub a small amount of it between your fingers – it should feel very slippery.
Second, we need to choose the correct washing accessories; the choice of which is just as important as selecting the right shampoo. Dust and dirt particles become embedded in synthetic sponges and wash mitts. This grime buildup eventually causes serious surface scratches that are often blamed on other sources. We strongly suggest that you use (in order of preference) only the highest quality natural sea “wool” grade sponge, genuine sheepskin mitt (not the one with polyester – to check if it’s genuine sheepskin just turn the mitt inside out and it should be leather) or 100% chenille cotton mitts. When using a natural sponge, use the softer flat side for your paint while the curved side can be used for glass.
Third, we need to employ the correct procedure:
- If possible, always wash your car in the shade.
- Rinse the surface very thoroughly before shampooing to remove as much dirt off the paint as possible before touching the car (and please don’t rush this critical step). If you have a pressure washer it will come in very handy for this purpose (just make sure to not use one with more than 1,250 psi). This step will dramatically decrease the amount of spider webbing your paint will develop from washing as time goes on.
- Also always work from the top down.
- You are better off using too little soap than too much, which will leave a residue if not rinsed off completely.
- Use lots of water and leave the dirtiest parts of the car, the front bumper and behind the wheels, for last.
- When washing a panel, load the sponge with shampoo and squeeze it out over the panel. Then gently wash with no downward pressure in straight lines (no “Karate Kid” wax on, wax off motion here).
- Remember never to press or try to rub something out when washing your car. When the paint is wet you can’t see if you’re scratching it in any way until you dry your car and have a heart attack seeing what you’ve just done. Remember to let the chemical do the work. If the shampoo doesn’t remove something, use the proper chemical later, but don’t try to make the car wash shampoo do a task it wasn’t designed to do.
- Use at least two (2) sponges/mitts – one for the tops and another one for the dirtier bottoms. In our shop we actually use three (3) different sponges/mitts. In addition, if you want to go a little nuts, use two (2) pales. Use a bucket for the shampoo and a bucket filled with clean water. Before reloading your sponge with clean soap, rinse it in the water to prevent contaminating the shampoo with dirt off the car. This step will also decrease the spider webbing on your paint.
- Contrary to popular opinion, we do not rinse each portion of the car after shampooing it. Because if it’s hot the water will begin to dry and we run the chance of developing water spots. But if the shampoo is on the paint, its water softening agents will prevent that if you've selected the correctly formulated shampoo.
Lastly, we need to dry the car. Make sure you hand-dry your car immediately after washing. Cod-oil-tanned chamois, synthetic chamois or the new waffle weave microfiber towels (which we prefer) are the best choices. These new waffle weave towels are safe and will not leave streaks like other synthetic or natural chamois. If you own a drying chamois, you may certainly continue to use them but always make sure they are clean. Then use a window towel (we recommend a microSuede specifically made for windows) to finish your windows to prevent streaking and spotting. The secret to getting a “wow” car wash is to go over the paint with an instant detailer spray with a cotton microfiber to remove any remaining water marks and to bring out the shine. The instant detailer should also contains a solution of paint sealant so it will prolong the protection of your paint and is great for in between waxing.
Washing your car should be a pleasurable experience and done at least weekly for a regularly driven car. Customers always ask me to share the “one big secret” of how to keep their cars looking pristine. Well, hang on to your fuzzy dice; here it is: Do not take your car to a car wash! I don’t care if it’s brushless, touchless or uses holy water. Don’t do it! Many car washes use odorless ammonia or phosphate-based soaps with very hot recycled wash water. You not only risk swirls, spider webbing, scratches or chips on your car, but also it removes your wax. So, wash it yourself or employ a professional detailer you trust to hand wash it. If however you live in an urban area (such as Manhattan) and don’t have a place to wash your car yourself and go to a hand carwash, at least take your own sponge and drying towel for them to use. This way they won’t be scratching your car with someone else’s dirt.
If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to pm me.
&
ExcelDetail
You have been very informative on car cleaning techniques. I am glad to have found this thread. I own a Black TSX and it is nearly impossible to keep clean. I have the correct tools to clean with, I just need the correct Shampoos and such. What are your reccomendations on this. I know what to look for (as far as what they contain inside them) but what brands have worked for you so I can compare. I need a good shampoo, quick dry or wax as you go type of solution, and what will contain the protection to my paint? Also, how often should you wax a car? I have swirls (which came from the dealer) and would like to get rid of these once and for all. Do you know of any good swirl removers/preventers?
Thank you again for your help with this issue.
Great job and extremely informative!!