Is there a limit to the number of times you can/should polish your car's finish? I've never done it, but I know polishing does take a super thin layer out of the paint.

So I am guessing you should not polish a lot right?

 

the only true way to find out is to buy a paint meter.

 

OK and if my paint is thin, then I can't polish even with a bunch of swirls? I'll have to repaint then?

 

well the paint meter is NOT cheap...especially if you just plan on using it that one time.

Do you know if your car has ever been polished? Is this something you plan on doing yourself, or taking to a professional?

I don't think you would know 100% without a paint meter, but...if you don't have obvious clear coat failure showing you may be alright. Well at least to start with a less aggressive approach

 

I am taking to a pro, but just curious as to how many times you can\should polish a car.

 

well in my opinion (I'm no pro) it really depends on the condition of the paint. I don't think there is a specified number of times you can polish a car before you start to cause problems with the clear coat. It would really be different per car/per pads/polish used.

Let's say you get a car fully polished out of all swirls, if you properly care for the car after you "shouldn't" have to completely polish the car again. Maybe a spot polish here and there as you see fit. That wouldn't cause much harm to the car.

Did a quick search and this might be helpful...

https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/arghhhhhhhh-messed-up-now-need-re-polish-how-often-too-often-707729/

 

How much paint are you removing? -http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...=paint+removed

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Get into the practice of using/alternating a paint polish (abrasive) with a paint cleaner (non abrasive).

 

It depends on what exactly your referring to. Polishing generally refers to a more fine machine finesse to full gloss, where rotary buffing generally refers to a more aggressive paint correction. A light polish shouldn’t effect the paint much. Obviously wet sanding then buffing is going to reduce the thickness.

The thing to remember is a mil gauge will only tell you the thickness of all the paint layers on the metal. It does not tell you what the actual clear thickness is. It tells you the overall thickness of the primer, base, clear, ( if 2 stage finish).

Generally autobody industry average is 2 mils of clear for complete UV protection. But, all OEM manufacturers clear thickness varies, and consistency varies over the body panels and parts. Having a ton of experience with Honda paint, I can say Honda never gets close to 2 mils on most models. OEM Honda clear is generally soft, and they do not apply a consistent 2 mils over the car. That's one reason why you'll see Honda's with clear coat failure. If the finish isn't babied, or maintained it can go south.

A good rule is, start with the least aggressive method, and go from there.

 

This was a helpful thread. Thanks.

 

Without a sales pitch too!