studville

First of all, I'd like to say it's a TOTALLY different ballgame when you're working on a black car.

So today, I decided to put the PC to use on my Black TSX. Ugg what a PIA. I started off with a Orange erasure and optimum compound. It did a semi-descent job in removing some of the swirls, however, I can still see some fine swirl marks in the sun. I'm guessing my next step is xyz product on a white pad?

Also, there are a few medium scratches on my car (just a few sporadic ones), that just won't come out using the combo above. I know supposedly they're suppose to come out as long as you can run your fingernail over it and it doesn't catch. How the heck am I suppose to get those out. they're not really TOO noticeable, but they're there. Should I bump it up to a yellow pad?

Picture of said scratches here..
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/1364/scratchhx2.jpg

And finally WTF is up with the optimum compound I'm using. The stuff just doesn't friggin break down. According to the videos I watched before I started, "Work the compound for ~3-5 minutes until broken down, and do not exceed 4500 rpm."
http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polisher.html

The stuff just doesn't break down. I worked it for like 10 minutes and it was still somewhat "wet." It's not like I'm using a crap ton either. I just put an 'X' on my pad per door panel.

I'm at the point where I just want to cash in all my chips and pay someone to do this shit.

studville

hmm maybe I'll post this over at autopia as well...

exceldetail

Stud, OC does break down, your probably just not use to it. And 3-5 minutes is plenty. You may be waiting for it to haze, which isnt going to happen. All Optimum polishes have high levels of lubricity. The only way you can tell if it has broke down is to remove the product and inspect your results. If the swirls are gone, good job! If there not, add a "little" and do it again......
Cardinals rules of PC'ing. Learn the machine, learn the product, learn the pad, then learn ever conceievable combination of the above and how they work together!

Bambo2888

ps- paint correction only occurs at 5000 rpms and up. lower rpms are simply for application and removal.

nyjohnchan

I'm new to this. Can you explain what is paint correction?
Thanks

exceldetail

Paint correction is best defined as improving the condition or physical appearance of any painted surface. A painted surface doesnt have to be in dire condition, to be "corrected". Even a paint cleaners results can be considered a "correction".....
Correct away..............

Bambo2888

What I mean by "paint correction" is using the DA polisher to remove extremely thin layers of clear coat to take away the small surface scratches and hair line marks. this dramatically improves the appearance because all scratches are noticeable when light reflects off of their sharp edges. by eliminating the sharp edges or the scratch altogether, the paint appears flawless, and actually is.

stogie1020

run the PC at 5 or 6 in the affected areas and you will get better results. Watch out for sling, though... How do I get Optimum polish off my garage ceiling?

Hawhyen51

Patience is a virtue . . . take your time. Optimum stays pretty much clear throughout the working process. Great tips from the previous posts.

exceldetail

LMFAO.............

Master47

If OP stays clear throughout the process...how do you tell when it actually breaks down and it's finished and ready for buffing?

stogie1020

My limited experience (see above post), when your arm feels like jelly. You have to guess, wipe it off and check the results.

exceldetail

When you polishing or compounding, your "buffing".....

Master47

Bad choice of words...let's try that again...how can you tell when OP or OC is actually fully broken down, and ready to be wiped off with a MF?

I think my biggest problem is that I try to do too large of a panel at a time (i.e. - half the hood) and parts of the area I am working on starts to dry and I end up "dry-buffing" creating holograms.

exceldetail

Optimum polishes, with the exception of PoliSeal wont dry on you. If your dry buffing with Optimum Polish or Compound, and your getting buffer trails, your not using enough product. A good polish will always leave some lubricity between pad and paint. It waits for you to get one, you dont wait for it...
As for determining "when" its completely broken down, its a trial and error mission. Find a method that incorporates the polishes break down period, in conjunction with swirl elimination, and your on the road to total surface prep. The only way your going to figure this out is to buff small areas once, and wipe. Then twice and wipe. Do you need to buff an area 3 times? You wont know until youve looked at the results of buffing it twice! Every polish and compound are different. Ive narrowed my buffing products down to two manufacturers, Four Star Body Shop, and Optimum. Either of these will satisfy my needs.
I can never say this enough.
Understand the following:
Get familiar with the machine, know the pads ability, choose quaility products and get familiar with the characteristics of the product. Then throw all 3 together and start over!
And when in doubt, call me!

Hawhyen51

As Patrick said, it's basically trial and error with OP. Take the hood for example, I'll separate it into 4 sections and do each section one at a time. I'll do a two pass (horizontally and vertically), wipe down, reevaluate, and if necessary repeat the process. I have polishes from several different manufacturers for different needs. It's just a matter of getting familiar with each product and trying to find the right combo for the job.