marshall28

Anyone able to explain the difference between the 2? Also, which is better?

I am new to detailing and car washing altogether (i've decided to adopt this hobby since my car is black and i don't want to risk damages). I have educated myself (thanks to this forum) on the proper car wash process including what to use to dry the car and how to do it.

I have all avenues covered (well, the verdict on how to wash my rims is still pending), but I need to know if I should use a polish or a wax?

Also how do I properly apply a polish or wax? I know when drying the car I will be using a Waffle Weave drying towel with a "pat dry" technique. However, is it after the drying that I should apply the polish or wax or what?

Any help guys would be appreciated. I am real confused in regards to polish and wax. Based on definitions I've read, I think just a polish is suffecient?

Thanks much guys

TOGWT

Q. What’s the difference between a wax and a polish?

A. Wax- is designed as a sacrificial protection; they can improve the shine but are very specific in their purpose, protection.

Polish- is an abrasive product that can reduce or eliminate surface imperfections, but doesn't provide surface protection. They will create a high gloss by burnishing the paint surface, the darker the colour the more dramatic. (Section 1)

See article Frequently Asked Questions - http://detailingwiki.com/index.php5?...sked_Questions

bo0sty

car must be dry and preferably free of contaminants (Clay Bar) before polishing or waxing.

also wheels just spray a wheel cleaner, let it dwell scrub with an old microfiber mitt with car wash solution and your good to go.

sr1sws

He'd probably like to know about sealants too, contrasted with 'wax'.

I don't really feel qualified to do that education, so someone else (Patrick?) please chime in.

I do know that sealants are closer to a 'plastic' finish and that in general, they last longer than waxes. There appears to different opinions over which looks best as a final finish. Personally, I'm currently going the sealant route.

Steve

Jesstzn

Various Kinds of Waxes
There are a number of different waxes available that would meet the needs for a good automotive wax products:

Vegetable Waxes such as carnuaba
Animal Waxes such as bees-wax
Petroleum Waxes such as paraffin & microcrystalline
Mineral-Fossil Waxes such as montan
Synthetic Waxes such as ethylene polymers
The "specifications" that are important in formulating a good automotive wax are:
Hardeners
Melting Point
Water Repellency
Resistence to Breakdown

What is a Automotive Wax?
An automotive wax product is one formulated to be used on a painted surface to enhance appearance and provide some depth and shine. This is done by smoothing out the surface and hiding imperfections.
NOTE: When we speak of waxes from this point on we can, and do include "paint sealants" too which are nothing more than an evolution of automotive wax technology.

What Are the Ingredients in Waxes?
Contrary to what some salesmen might like you to think, waxes are simply basic chemistry, no magic, no razzle-dazzle, just a combination of ingredients to make a product that performs a function.
They include the following: water, solvents, oils, silicone fluids, wax, color and at times fragrance that are held in suspension by emulsifiers. It is the combination of these ingredients that gives a wax it's form (whether paste; creme or liquid), shine, durability and depth.
A properly formulated wax will provide shine to a painted surface and some temporary protection. The protection is obtained by creating a buffer surface between the paint and the environment.
Waxes in themselves, and the silicone in the formulation, will resist many environmental contaminants only for a period of time, not like the sales would have you believe for 1,2 or 3 years without a re-application.

How Long Will They Last?
The length of time a wax/sealant lasts depends on what the formulator was trying to do. But a standard wax will last about 30 to 45 days tops. On the other hand, what we call a paint sealant can last up to 6 months, under the best conditions.
It is the inclusion of what are called, "amino-functional" silicone fluids that give us a paint sealant, rather than a wax. The standard wax product contains silicone fluids which are not as durable as the amino-functional silicone which will be explained later.


What is the Best Wax?
According to most chemists, when it comes to a wax/sealant product there is no advantage between pastes, cremes or liquids. Which form a product comes in has to do with what the formulator is trying to achieve, which is usually dictated by the sales department.
Often form has to do with cost; ease of application; ease of removal; emulsification ease; protection; gloss.
There is really no difference between hard pastes, cremes or liquids when you are speaking about a true automotive wax/sealant. Given the formula has a high percentage of wax, the form does not effect the product's performance. (there is normally no more than 15% to 20% wax content in a product).
However, there are some spray waxes and "fast" waxes on the market that do have a very small quantity of wax and silicone in them and as a result these products offer very little in the way of protection and durability.
Most retail, off-the-shelf products have very little wax in them and are loaded with what we call "fillers" to fill the bottle, diamacetaneous earth. This is evidenced by the large amount of powdery residue left on the car when it dries.


Understanding Paint Sealants!
Ever since the term paint sealant was coined there has been a great deal of misinformation disseminated on the subject. Some, intentionally by many of the manufacturers and/or marketers of paint sealant protection products.

It Began with Polyglycoat
One of the first big names in the paint sealant field was a product marketed under the name of Polyglycoat, a paint sealant that producers claimed to have fantastic protective properties, better than anything else on the market. Their impact on the market was so great that many of the "BIG" names in automotive chemical products followed suit and produced their own versions of paint sealants.

Sealants vs Waxes
In order detail business operators to provide customers with honest information a full understanding of the differences between waxes and sealants is necessary. Further, it also helps them to sell their own services better, having this knowledge to counteract the car salesman's admonishment to his customer, "your car has a clear-coat finish, it never needs any kind of waxing." Or, "you have purchase a lifetime paint sealant protection, your car never needs to be waxed."
By simple definition is paint sealant is something that seals. But, does not a wax seal? So is it not a sealant too? Technically speaking you are correct. But typically automotive waxes are not thought of as a sealing product.
Sealants may have wax in the formulation but they are more than just a wax because they contain, as mentioned earlier, amino-functional silicone fluids in them.
If a wax contained amino-functional silicones then it properly speaking is not a wax by our definition, but a paint sealant.
There are waxes on the market that are formulated with amino-functional silicones and are marketed as having a longer life than other waxes. This is done because the marketing department feels that it needs to market a wax to compete with other products, but needs a wax, that has longer durablity. It has nothing to do with the chemistry of the product, just what is included and what the selling company chooses to call it.
A paint sealant for all intents and purposes contains as a key ingredient, amino-functional silicone fluids which form a cross-linking film over the surface of the paint that forms a durable barrier on the paint that will, in fact, last longer than wax, sitting on the surface of the paint.
Sealants, like waxes, contain: water, solvents, oils, wax, color, fragrance held together by emulsifiers. They are usually available in liquid or cremes, but not in paste form, which I suspect has to do with marketing more than anything else.
Often on the label of the sealant product or in marketing material you will see terms such as "polymers and resins". These are really nothing but marketing buzz words intended to make their products sound better, when in fact, all products have polymers and resins in them.
What you must understand is what a POLMER and a RESIN are to be completely knowledgeable.


A Polymer
Comes from the Greek, "poly" meaning "many" and the word "mer" meaning "units."
Chemically it is a macro-molecule formed by the chemical union of 5 or more identical combining units called, monomers.
Silicones and resins can be generalized then, as "polymers."
And, the list of polymers available to the chemical formulator is practically endless.
Examples of polymers include: polyethylene, polyurethane or polytetrafluoroethylene. These products start with "poly" followed by another word. So what you have, for example, are many units of ethylene.
In the detail business the word polymer is the single most abused word in the English language. For example, most of the thickeners used in waxes and sealants are polymers. So the marketing people can "honestly" say in their marketing and put on the label that "this product contains space-age polymers."


A Resin
This is a semi-solid complex mix of organic compounds that are animal, vegetalb or synthetic (man-made).
Because the term is so broadly used it would best to restrict it's application to natural organic-soluble, hydro-carbon products coming from trees and shrubs.
The chemical dictionary definition is so broad that is has almost become meaningless. It has become a catchall term. To be specific, a resin is a polymer that melts or is soluble in specific solvents. In some cases the material is used to make a plastic is a resin. If you see the term resin on the label of a wax or sealant how do you know what it really means? You do not.
What a resin does for a wax or paint sealant is really anybody's guess. In short, the use of the term resin, polymer, etc is nothing but marketing jargon.
There are some polymers that can have a positive effect on the quality of a paint sealant and/or wax, these are amino-functional silicones which will be discussed in depth further on.


Silicone Fluids
A silicone fluid is a relatively short chain inorganic polymer called "polydimethyl siloxance. Technically a silicone is a polymer. So to see the word polymer on a wax or sealant lable could mean anything as the defintion becomes clear to you.
The properties of silicone fluids range from very thin, volatile liquids that look and feel like petroleum solvents to a very thick and heavy liquid that look like clear honey. The only difference between a thin and thick silicone fluid is the number of units in the dimethyl siloxane chain.
Almost all waxes have some type of silicone fluids in them to provide shine and durability.


Amino-Functional Silicone Fluids
This is a silicone fluid that has been slightly modified. The polymer content is different. The amino portion of the amino-functional silicone is what causes the silicone to crosslink and physically attach to the paint surface. This cross linking capability is what makes a paint sealant more durable than a typical wax. As mentioned, waxes usually only contain standard silicone fluids that do not crosslink, so are not as durable as a paint sealant.

What About Teflon?
Teflon is a trademark of the DuPont Company for a polymer called "Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). In spite of what some detail chemical companies might say, Teflon is a polymer that is not well suited for use in a paint sealant or wax because of several properties that are unrelated to its durable slippery nature.
Teflon is a powder that melts at 600 degrees F or dissolves in fluorianted solvents such as freon. Those are the only known ways to liquify Teflon. If it cannot be made into a liquid it cannot stay on a surface.
There is a letter floating around the detail industry from the, general manager of the Automotive Products division of DuPont that unequivecally states that Teflon has no known capabilities to enhance the shine or durability of a automotive wax or paint sealant.


What About Form
As discussed in the wax section whether a sealant is a liquid or creme has no bearing on it's performance. Sealants can be, and are formulated in several different ways and these do not necessarily show up in the physical state of the product so there is really no physical advantage of one over the other, that is, liquid or creme.


Can You Wax Over a Sealant?
Yes you can, if you have allowed the sealant to cure as per the manufacturer's recommendations which can be from a few hours to 48 hours. This allows the crosslinking molecules of the amino-functional silicone to form.
But the question is, "why do it?"
The only benefit would possibly be to fill the spider-scratches on the finish or to increase the depth of shine on darker cars. Not much protection benefit.


Conclusion
The purpose of this article was to arm you with knowledge that you can use to inform your customers as to the truth about paint protection products be they waxes or sealants.
Which is better? From a durability point of view a sealant is better hands down. Remember, the best wax will last about 45 to 60 days,some cheaper waxes less than 2 weeks. A sealant on the other hand can last up to 6 months, but in most cases they will last about 3 to 4 months before another application is necessary.
From a shine point of view a wax might provide a deeper shine on a dark car because of the greater oil content. This is not to say a sealant will not shine a dark car as well, it just depends on the product. Some sealants are formulated for shine whereas some are formulated for durablity.
In conclusion, you can see based on what was presented that a sealant is a better product to use than a wax in almost all instances, but remember they are not indestructable. So your car wash customers who have purchased a new car protection package must know that they do have to reapply the sealant at least in 6 months. In fact, in most instances the small print on the contract states that for the warranty to be valid the sealant must be reapplied in 6 months. Which should indicate that the vehicle needs to be protected regularly. And, what better place to do this than at your carwash.
If you can absorb this information and develop your own presentation based on this information you will have a great means of countering comments like, "I don't need a wax I have a paint sealant on my car."

Jesstzn

In reality if the wheels aren't neglected and are washed with the car on a weekly basis all thats needed to wash the wheels is an old mitt and the tail end of the car wash water..

I never use wheel cleaners on my car nor ever had the need to.

BackinBlackTL

^^yuuurp...i havent purchased a wheel cleaner in years...

marshall28

Thanks all for the responses. Then my last questions is how to apply a polish? Meguiars had a video on how to apply a WAX, is a polish applied the same way? Also, after apply a polish am I supposed to rinse and dry the car, then apply the wax? And then after apply the wax am I supposed to rinse and dry? Or Am i supposed to just keep lightly buffing till the polish isn't visible anymore and then apply the wax and keep buffing till the wax isn't visible anymore?

Thanks guys. I am going all out on friday, the car is brand new (had it for 3 weeks) and hasn't been washed yet :/

I want to do this right

Jesstzn

Polishes aren't applied as such .. they are an abrasive used to correct paint issues. And results by polishing by hand are minimal.

If your care is 3 weeks old then don't worry about polishing . Clay bar the car then wax it.

Here is some reading . Quote from Patrick at Exceldetail.

New Car Care suggestions/advice.

I’m constantly inundated with emails and private messages regarding folks who just bought new used, or brand new
vehicles, and are asking for advice of proper car care, and/or products to use with their new baby. I have no problem answering these questions! However having to repeat the same information gets a little duldrum. With that said, Im going to go ahead and put together my best choices available to you through the exceldetail.com website,
for your position. We can talk technique on an individual level if you care to.
All vehicles need washing on a frequent basis. Once a week, or once every other week, they all get dirty, all the time and the dirtier they are allowed to get between washes the higher the risk of marring the paint during the wash.

Exposure to the elements is the first area we need to combat, and it starts with proper washing. Contaminants bombard the vehicles surface the moments it steps out of the garage. Brake dust is airborn, sap from trees, industrial fallout and the cursor of them all, U.V. radiation. Oh, don’t forget bird bombs as well.
I've heard the stories about using dishwashing soap, and I see no benefit to using them. Other then it cleans, well so does car wash soap. Leave it for the dishes, even its manufacturers don't recommend using it for auto washing. "Well is strips the old wax off." So does a polish.

Any over the counter soap, provided its a name brand, I can just about vouch for. The only differences you may see is its rinsability. Some soaps, if not rinsed immediately, may leave a film. This film can be removed with water or a
quick detailer and microfiber.

One of my favorite medias to wash with, is of course a genuine sheepskin washmit. I find there softness superior to anything else available, be it synthetic or natural. A genuine sheepskin for me, is really the way to go. They won't scratch, are extremely gentle, hold debris its its abscesses, and then rinse cleanly. Add a bucket capable of a few gallons of water, and a Grit Guard, and your about ready to begin the process.

Another word on Grit Guards. If you care, spend the $10.00 for a lifetime of security knowing the debris you just removed, stays settled on the bottom of the bucket. It's a great little accessory for washing, and truly valuable.

Theres also a very popular product called Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine. Add a couple/few cap fulls to each bucket of water (2-3 Gals) and you have superior lubrication, polymers, and debris encapsulation. No other soap is
needed, theres no sudsing, and no rinsing. Just wash, and dry. One of the decades best products has come to the market, also available at exceldetail.com, in 3 sizes.
I also add just ½ a capfull to my regular wash soap to add lubrication.


Paint cleaning/polishing.
Paint cleaning is accomplished in two ways. One can either cleanse the paint with chemicals, or one can cleanse and polish the paint, with light abrasives. Here's the differences. Paint cleaners clean, using a makeup of chemicals. This makeup is designed to remove dead paint, which in turn, brightens colors, and enhances gloss and reflection. It can be applied and removed by hand or machine, and it's often the choice for new paint, or paint which has been well maintained, and/or free of discernable swirls or scratches. It's also used on surfaces which need to
be "stripped" of existing protectants, to apply a new "layer" of protection. Some examples of products they sell fitting this category would be Danase Pure Polish, Four Star Pre Wax Cleaner, One Grand Special Touch to name a few. Swirls can be removed with paint cleaners by selecting the proper machine and polishing pad. The process is reliant upon the pads ability to "cut".

The other form of paint cleaning involves using very light and safe abrasives. This process can also be performed by hand or machine, but is much better addressed with a machine such as the Porter Cable Random Orbital 7424/7336 or Ultimate Detailing Machine, produced by Porter Cable. Polishes use chemicals and diminishing abrasives. The diminishing abrasives start large, and through the process of attrition, "roll" themselves out.
Through this process, they clean the paints surface, and abrade vertical edges on scratches and light reflecting
swirls. Abrasive polishes are most often used on paints that have been neglected, or on paints which have swirls and holograms or ghost images. Abrasive polishes come in varying degrees of aggression, from very light (Optimum
Polish, 1Z Metallic Polish and others, to very concentrated, larger abrasives (Optimum Hyper Compound, einszett Pro Intensive Paste, einszett Extra Paint Cleaner and others). Then, there's everything in between. Sort of the
midrange polishes if you will, like Duragloss SMR, Four Star Scratch & SMR, 1Z Paint Polish just to name a few.



There are also other polishes which clean and protect, with and without abrasives. These polish/protectants are known as "all in ones". Duragloss 105, 101, 111, One Grand Clean N Wax, Optimum PoliSeal, 1Z Metallic Polish, Klasses All In One etc.
These are terrific products for car owners looking for quick cleaning and protection. They do often lack the stay power of a dedicated protectant though, but, are very worthy products under certain circumstances.
Protection:
There's really no use in polishing or paint cleaning, if you don't take it the full 9 yards. Protectants come in various forms, be it light liquids, cream liquids, pastes, or sprays. It's really up to the end user, to discover which one is
suitable for them. Most, if not all, can be applied by hand or machine. I prefer machine simply for its ease and uniformity, as well as time and labor savings. Protectants should be applied with the lightest foam available, which
is Red if you shop at Exceldetail.com. Carnaubas have been the choice for many years. Actually, "Nuba" pastes were about the only sort of protection available for quite some time. Creme liquids grew from that because they provided greater ease in application, but slightly less durability. Carnaubas are a natural product, which is refined with petroleum products, to make it usable. They offer wonderful appearance and protection, and are much easier to use then the days of passed.

Within the last decade plus, synthetic waxes, or Polymer Protectants have really
exploded on the market and autopart store shelves. These are a replica of Carnauba products, which provide better durability, and greater ease of use, as well as the ability to stack layers of protection atop another as long as you wait 24 hours between layers. Sort of a short stack of pancakes if you will! The Polymers will actually crosslink and bond to a clean, painted surface, as opposed
to "floating" on the surface. There are also hybrid protectants which contain a mix of synthetics, with natural carnauba content. Sort of the best of both worlds. Again, appearance and ease of use, is very subjective. This decision of which is best, is totally up to the end user. Criteria which should be considered should be, ease of use
(If its not easy to use, your not going to use it no matter what it looks like, or protects like), appearance (Does it leave a unacceptable amount of oil, which attracts dust? Some products will leave a layer of oil, which is easily
removable once its thinned out in the sunshine. It will also wash away after your first wash, but it is not indicative of lost protection), also consider cost (there are products out there that costs $1,000's of dollars, stay away from them!
I would dare to compare one with anything I sell! Some of thier synthetic recommendations: Sealants: Four Star Ultimate Paint Protectant with Polycharger, Optimum OptiSeal, Surf City Nano Seal, Danase Sealant, Duragloss 105, 111, 101, Hybrids: Optimum Car Wax Spray, Duragloss AquaWax, 1Z Glanz Wax. All in Ones: Optimum PoliSeal, One Grand Wash N Wax Klasse AIO. Carnaubas: One Grand Blitz Wax, Collinite 476, 845, Clearkote Carnuaba MooseWax, Surf City Barrier Reef Carnauba.

Maintenance
I really highly recommend the use of Spray Waxes in the quest for perfect car care maintenance. You wash, you dry. It's not that easy, or is it. Well it is if thats your M.O. But why not take it to the extreme, with just a quick in-between step, that takes no longer then the time to change a radio station? Spray waxes can be applied to wet surfaces, or dry surfaces. The only difference being it loses some of its effectiveness/concentration, when used on a wet surface. But, if you can add to the base coats protection, with a few simple spritzes while drying, why not? It's really
a no brainer! You wash, you float rinse. You lift the hood and rear deck. Grab your Monterey and Riptide Waffle Weaves. Spritz the roof with Duragloss AquaWax, Optimum Spray Wax, or Four Star Ultimate Spray Wax, and
proceed to wipe dry. Instant added protection. Do the same on the door panels, then hood and rear deck, and your
good to go!
Quick detailers are good for just about everything in-between. Bird bombs, smudges, light dust, water spots, or for just a general quick shine, use a quick detailer. Quick detailers do not and should not replace conventional, or NRWS methods. Spray wash cleaners have their place as well. Just use common sense when walking the auto parts store isles, and when in doubt, trust your intuition, or call me! Manufactures tend to make something, for everything these days, and the marketing depts., have gotten pretty clever. So shop with caution.
Machine polishing and pad selection:
I’m going to be real brief with this one. If you dont have one, really consider getting one. You have just spent 1000's or 10's of 1000's of dollars on a car. Is it really going to put you in the whole if you drop $150.00 on a machine that
will cut your maintenance time down to 1/2, and increase the results at least 100% vs. performing the same function by hand? If you can operate a cordless drill, chances are you can operate a machine. Just do it for cryin out loud,
and quit making excuses for not getting one. You have come this far, read all of this, you must care enough!
If your that opposed to PC ownership, or its just not in your finances at the moment, consider the Excelerator Hand Polishing System, from exceldetail.com. Same foam compounds, but made for hand use.
There are several pad manufacturers, but I will deal expressely with Lake Country Mfg. Now, I could sit here and explain PPI (pores per inch), density, and thickness and widths, but I’m not. Decide what level of aggression you
need, then figure out what size you want to work with. Here it is in simple, laymen terms:
Yellow = Aggressive, use for serious defects, scratches, and swirls. Normally requires follow up with a lighter pad and polish.
Orange = Semi Aggressive, use for light to moderate defects, scratches and swirls. May require follow up with lighter pad and polish combinations. One of the most versatile pads made, can be used after yellow pads for
marring removal, and can also be used for finish polishing on light colored vehicles.
White = Least aggressiveness, use for light defects, scratches and swirls. Normally doesn't require follow up with a lighter pad and polish. Can be used with a wide variety of polishes for differing situations and circumstances. May
be used after Yellow and Orange pads for additional marring removal, or used as a final stage with a light polish.
Black = Non aggressive, use with glazes, all in one products, and sealants on light colored vehicles. Larger pores than Red.
Red = Sealants only
Always make sure your pad supports your products being used. Results will obviously vary according to user
techniques, and paint surfaces. Weather conditions (relative humidity, surface temps, sun vs. shade can also play a role). Always try working in the shade, some products are sun safe, but as a general rule of thumb, try to keep all
work in the shade.

Unquote.

marshall28

Thanks for that post, read all of it, very useful info on polishes too!

So then, do you guys recommend that I apply the wax on a car after I dry it? Or should I apply it after the washing stage but before the drying part?

Also, is the wax supposed to be applied and, after letting it sit for a bit, just be buffed out?

Lastly, what is the best or most trusted applicator for wax (a non machine applicator)?

Thanks so far everyone.

Jesstzn

Waxes are applied after the car is completly dry.

As for wax drying .. read the container they are all different.

Yellow foam applicator and wash it with Dawn etc soon as your done and rinse well and let dry or throw it out. If the wax dries in it your setting yourself up for marring next time you use it.

marshall28

Ok so i use a yellow foam applicator, and buff the car until I can't visibly see the wax?

And I think I would plan to just throw out the applicator. Better safe than sorry IMO

Jesstzn

No you apply the wax per instructions on the container ... usually very thin. And let it dry per the instructions and then remove th ehaze with a MicroFiber towel(s)

I think your confusing waxes with polishes. Some polishes you work till they become near invisable.

marshall28

Hey i bought the meguiars techwax 2.0, and it came with an applicator, but it feels "scratchy." Think its safe? Would it not be better to use like a sheepskin mit to apply the wax?

Also should wax be applied in strokes to avoid swirl marks? I seen people do it in circular motions. Sorry about all these questions guys, but I don't wanna mess this up >.<

Jesstzn

That purple applicator is just fine .. it will feel different with product on it.

Forget the mitt.

Apply in a circular motion to assure coverage .. overlap each pass by 50%. Because the wax is its own lubricant it won't swirl unless you use a dirty applicator.

Always take the wax haze off in straight lines as the air flows where possible. No matter how you remove it there is always the possibility of swirling but its least noticed in straight lines.

marshall28

cool. All is good then on this front! thanks.

edit: Interesting waxing video i found. Even recommends using fingers!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXltvg_s93o

vinnier6

iTrader: (1)

i have used the meguiars nxt in the past...its a nice product for an over the counter product...

less is more, apply the nxt very very thin...put it on, take it off, no work in is required, your just looking for coverage...in general, nxt will last you about 2 months max....so you will be needing to use it every other month or soo...

vinnier6

iTrader: (1)

also, the car need to be dry, i either let my car sit in the garage over night to ensure its completely dry, or i use my compressor to blow water out of all the cracks and mirrors and stuff....either way, make sure its dry, any water in the seams and cracks will make the sealant resist bonding....

also, go to costco and get yourself their 36 pack of microfibre towels to do the wipe down process to remove the sealant after you apply it....

marshall28

the costco idea sounds good.... for next time lol..... Already bought the towels...

So is sealant considered to be wax?

Jesstzn

No ... 2 very missused words ...


Waxes are more carnuba based .. sealants are Polymers..

People like Meguiars etc use the word wax for marketing .. if it said NXT sealant you prolly wouldn't have bought it .