03tlCHARCOL

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys I've been lurking around the wash and wax side for a couple weeks. I am amazed by the detailing jobs by individuals like TSC17, csmeance, and Wes_R to name a few. Anyways I try to keep my car as clean as possible, but I want to do better! My car is in pretty good shape except for the 2 trouble spots that I've highlighted. Please bear with me on the long post, if you don't please just scroll to the bottom to suggest if the products I'm getting will help me get started.

I live in Seattle so it's pretty tough to keep it clean with the rain. But I generally try to wash and wax my car every 2 weeks. I also use the cali duster sometimes to keep the car clean. On occasion I've gone to a touchless carwash nearby and afterwards I would go home and apply some spraynwax. But I'm going to give up the touchless carwash, now I know they're bad.

My general process is to hose the car down, wash by sections (top to bottom), rinse, wash again, then dry with mirco fiber and shammy, and then wax by hand. I've clayed the car once last year and it was great.

Here are some pictures of the stuff that I currently use, I didnt include the MFs. (By the way is it okay to wash them and dry them?)





Here is a buffer that I have, but have not used on my car. Do you guys think I can polish or wax with it?


So I have the normal light scratches which I use the rubbing compound, which the autostore reccommended. It does a good job of covering up the scratches but they eventally reappear so I think I need to polish to get rid of them. This picture of the scratch is pretty deep on the edges and thin in the middle I can feel it with my finger nail. So I think polishing will not get rid of this scratch. I'm not into wetsanding to correct it, which maybe the only way. But you think http://www.langka.com/ will work?




Then I have this problem area where the paint is chipped. I have some Acura paint and the only thing I've done is paint over it until it was level with the rest of the paint. But it looks like it's coming off again. What can I do to fix this?





So finally the product list that I have compiled to help me do better, my spending limit is going to be $200-$300. I already bought some sheepskin mitts so I'm good on those.

1.Porter Cable 7424- used/new $100-150 (If you guys think the buffer that I have wont do a good job.)
2.UtlilTech Tripod work light_Lowes $40
3.Tuf Shine Apperance Kit - $22
4. 1 Excel Monterey Waffle Weave Drying Towel $11
5. Grit Guard - $10
6. Now this is the part that I really need help, what polishes to get. There is so many differenet polishes..
So if you estimate the stuff above I have about $60 bucks to spend on polishes and possiblly some pads for the PC

So I need some help and thanks for reading.

dmassott

my suggestion for the polishes and stuff to get started is get the essentials kit thing from exceldetail.
It includes: Optimum compound, Polish, and Sealant. Also 1 orange pad, 1 white, and 1 red. I found this to be a great starting point. ive since got a few more pads and diff. polishes, but its def a great package to start with.

bo0sty

diffidently is budget allows pick up some more drying towels, makes drying less of a hassle

and as mentioned before try optimum...im kind of bias cause its the only polish i use, but it was also the first polish i used and i was able to obtain the results i desired.

exceldetail

Kind of hard to argue that point...............

03tlCHARCOL

iTrader: (3)

Is it this one? and I keep seeing people say ONR does that stand for optimum no rinse? Do you really just use a waffle towel and just wipe off?

SO I would use either Optimum Polish or Optimum compound depending on severity of my scratches? Then I would finish it off with Optimum Poliseal as my wax?

Optimum/Erasure 6.5''/Supreme Combo Does the size of the pad matter?

We've been asked to bring the best of two worlds, together. Optimum polishes and the Erasure 6.5" (Lake Country) Polishing Kit.
1-32oz Optimum Polish, 1-32oz Optimum Compound, and 1-32oz Optimum PoliSeal. Add the Erasure 6.5" Orange Polishing, 6.5" White Light Polishing, and 6.5" Red Sealant pads, and 3 Supreme Microfiber Polishing towels.
Regular retail, $94.21, now $79.11!

I might need to make a call to get everything sorted out...

03tlCHARCOL

iTrader: (3)

Oh what about the buffer that I have? Is it junk? and the paintchip how do I fix that?

exceldetail

That buffer isnt going to do much at all........The pads I carry are for the PC 7424/7336/UDM/Cyclo machines.....5.5" pads are the preferred pad as well....

bo0sty

So you need a

Buffer/Pads-http://www.prestostore.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?ref=exceldetail&ct=65683&pd=299296

Polish- Compound II and Finish Polish II

Protect-
If you want to stay with optimum
http://www.prestostore.com/cgi-bin/s...520&recview=21

or

Forum favorite
http://www.prestostore.com/cgi-bin/s...37056&pd=97957

vinnier6

iTrader: (1)

start by throwing all that stuff in the picture away including the waxmaster buffer...you can keep the clay kit....

set yourself up with a budget of say 200 bucks and get your self started with a udm, some pads, optimum polish, and 4 star upp...get some microfibres and you should be good to go...

you can probably polish out or soften the scratch in the pic, but the other damage will need some pro level help....

Denzil

iTrader: (1)

I would just get rid of the Perma-seal and the Waxmaster. Everything else will suffice for now until you get into the thick of things.

mrclrider

I would plan on not going out to eat or doing anything, any extra money you thought you had will not just disappear and you will soon have a garage full of products to keep that ride looking good, I am speaking from experience!

huy33

Yup.... It starts with one machine and a polish and before you know it, you're re-arranging your house so you can have more space to put all your detailing supplies.

03tlCHARCOL

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for all the responses guys, I'm working with Patrick on my final product list. I should be ordering in a few days. I've also watched a few videos on how to use the porter cable. I was reading that I should only use compound on the trouble spots not the entire car. But when I use the PC inconjuntion with polish I would do the entire car correct?

exceldetail

It really depends on the surfaces condition. Ive compounded entire cars, just knowing that a polish would not be aggressive enough. Then followed up with a polish.
Rule of thumb is always have a gentle polish on hand to start from, this way you can gauge if you need to step your pad up, or step your product up, or both. Use videos ONLY AS A GUIDE. They are not suitable for everyone, or every need, or every surface. Take in the basics, then develop your own unique technique.......
We can all help you, but the end result is from what you have learned while using the machine and adjusting to your needs.....You will be fine with a PC. We all started somewhere, just like you!

03tlCHARCOL

iTrader: (3)

So I got everything in my order excpt for the PC, which will come next week. Thanks Patrick!

Got some questions on polishing so my steps would be:

1.Wash with ONR
2.Clay
3. Do I use Optimum Hyper Compound on just the scratches? Or would I do the whole car? I dont really have swirls, but I do have scratches. I should be using the white pad if I dont have swirls?
4. Then I would follow it up with Optimum Polish and once again do I use it just on the trouble spots or on the whole car? Or do I just use one and not the other?
5. Then I can use Poli-Seal as LSP. I should be using the Red pad
6. But I also got 4UPP (red pad) so does that mean I should just use one and not the other?

Denzil

iTrader: (1)

Don't use HC unless you really have to. The rule of thumb is to always start with your least aggressive combination and make your way up (more aggressive) as necessary. So a good start would probably be the white pad and OP followed by an orange pad and HC if it's really necessary. Otherwise, just start with the white pad and OP and then finish with the red pad and PS. You can top the PS with UPP for the best protection. The PS and UPP is actually a pretty good combination.

You can generally polish the entire vehicle with your polishes and only in select areas with your compound but it's all situational. If you really wanted to, you could just compound your entire vehicle if it really needs it.

03tlCHARCOL

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. Hmm now I'm rethinking my purchases because I bought the 32oz sizes of compound and I may have been able to get by with the 8oz. The car has never been polished, but I don't really have a swirl problem, I do have minor scratches here and there.

How much product should I be using with my PC?
Should I wash the pads each time when I apply PS and then UPP? How much time should I apply between OP to PS to UP?

Denzil

iTrader: (1)

Are you really sure you don't have swirls? I can almost guarantee that you do. Care to share some close-up pics in the sun?

You'll want to use four dime-sized amounts of polish around on the surface of your pads. If you're going to use different products on the same pad, it'd be wise to wash them. As far as time goes, I don't think you really have to wait from OP to PS to UPP.

03tlCHARCOL

iTrader: (3)

Your on! LOL I'll have to get it quick since the sun in Seattle is rare. I'll take some up close pics to share. It just rained like a few mins ago and the car is pretty dirty, so maybe it's hiding the swirls.

I'll denifitely want your opnion because maybe to this untrained eye, I might not see a swirl

03tlCHARCOL

iTrader: (3)

Denzil- I haven't had chance to post my pictures, not sure if I was able to take the right pictures. Also the pictures are right after I used ONR. Would you recommend using Optimum Hyper Compound with a white pad? Or it would just defeat the purspose? Or is just depends on the spot?

exceldetail

You'll know a swirl when ya see it. Get the suns reflection on your hood,and look outside the suns shining perimeter for swirls. Also another cheap sunshine replacement are those l.e.d. flashlights! When its dark out, perform the same ritual, and look for them!

Takran

I have two of these, one hand-powered and one little battery-powered light... works great and the big one doesn't even need batteries!

Denzil

iTrader: (1)

I'm not quite sure, you might not have to go so aggressive. Like you questioned, it really depends on the spot/area. Now show us some pics!

03tlCHARCOL

iTrader: (3)

The sun kept coming and going. I couldn't get a direct sunlight shot.
I couldn't find my LED flashlight, so I'll have to wait for the sun to come back. I took a bunch of shots, so it probably better to go photobucket.

http://s614.photobucket.com/albums/t...view=slideshow



Another question since it rains in Seattle every other day. Would using QD be my best bet to keep it clean?

Denzil

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, QD or ONR really. If your car is just sitting outside in the rain and you really aren't driving it anywhere, you can definitely QD it without any worry (so long as there isn't a ton of debris on your vehicle). However if there's a bit of debris/dirt, your best bet would be to use ONR.

Oh and by the way, your paint looks pretty good from what I can tell. However, keep in mind that I think you have one of the colors that can be hard to tell if you have swirls or not. The LED flashlight and the sun should really tell you what's going on.

mrclrider

or if your like me, your sorting through stuff in the house you don't really need... like stove, dishwasher, fridge..lol, that is what coolers and grills are for, and we use paper plates now...j/k

exceldetail

Maybe I should start selling Tuff Sheds for storage?

03tlCHARCOL

iTrader: (3)

Oh and by the way, your paint looks pretty good from what I can tell. However, keep in mind that I think you have one of the colors that can be hard to tell if you have swirls or not. The LED flashlight and the sun should really tell you what's going on. [/QUOTE]

I'm amazed how clean the ONR has kept my car.

So....Yeah??!! I think my paint was in pretty good condition since I can see my reflection LOL. I've had the car close to 3 years now and I swear I see more and more scratches pop up. So when I polish, should I be taping up the middle molding (b/t the door and window) or is it okay to polish over it? Because I know when I wax I sometimes get the wax b/t the crack and I can't get it out.

If I can get my hands on a flashlight or when the SUN comes out again I'll try to capture some better pictures. Not to brag, but I think, I've done a pretty good job keeping the paint in good condition by hand and wax.

Denzil

iTrader: (1)

If your molding is painted, you can definitely polish over it but you must be very careful since it's plastic and not metal like the rest of your car. Plastic can only tolerate so much heat.

The only way to truly see your paint's condition is to strip it of all its protection and then viewing it with some halogens and/or the sun. If you can do that, then you should have an easier time seeing the swirls in your paint.

03tlCHARCOL

iTrader: (3)

Got it thanks for the help. Can't wait to get my PC! It should be arriving today. I also picked up 1000W worklights so I'm ready to get detailng started!

Denzil

iTrader: (1)

No problem.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Considering how many damn protects you make available to us, and make us can't live without, it wouldn't be a bad idea

Takran

With the microfiber blankets now, I'm waiting for MF pillows, and perhaps a MF couch cover!

03tlCHARCOL

iTrader: (3)

I just got the PC and plugged in just to make sure it works...

It scared me for a moment, I mean I had it on one and it way more powerful compared to the waxmaster that I had. I'm a little intimdated to use it! Man when I bumped it all the way to six that baby was going!

Denzil

iTrader: (1)

Cool, now you just need to practice with it.

exceldetail

You really should try to quit playing with it.
Its a proven fact that playing with PC's may become habitual. You will be polishing wood floors, glass showers, refrigerators, and kitchen cabinets.
Also when turning on, try to have some resistance applied to the pad, in the way of a cars painted surface!
Have fun! We'll get ya through this trying time!

03tlCHARCOL

iTrader: (3)

After I clay, should I be using some type of cleaning alcohol to make sure the surface is really clean before I polish? Or better yet, what step of the process would I be using the alcohol?

exceldetail

No additional cleaning, other then wiping away your QD your using for lubricating. If its an absolutely filthy mess, you could consider rewashing, but normal wipe down while QD is still wet, is suffice. Then just polish away.
Alcohol is sometime used after polishing and before applying your protectant. There has been a lot of discussion as of late about wiping post polishing surfaces with alcohol to remove oils and polishing fillers. I personally dont do that, as the polishes I use dont contain fillers. Lubes used in polishes are often used in protectants as well.