Leather Care
#1
Leather Care
I'm having a hard time with my leather, the seats are cracking and even though I condition and clean them, it does not seem to work. The paint is rubbing off in other spots. What can I do? Please help.
#2
Needs more Lemon Pledge
You have paint on your leather seats?
Maybe some pics will help, can you post?
Maybe some pics will help, can you post?
#3
Senior Moderator
paint? what car do you have? if the leather is peeling off and the car hasn't been used much, it mgith be a maunfuacturing defect.
#4
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Are you referring to urethane covered leather?
Leather Three Step Care Cleaning, Conditioning and (UVR) Protection):
1.Cleaning- use a soft horse hair brush (Groit's Leather & Interior Brush) and/or a vacuum to remove any dust, apply a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 6:1 ratio or stronger) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (i.e. a seat back). To remove stubborn dirt or grime gently agitate the surface with a boar's hair cleaning brush (this will not harm the leather) then use a clean, damp Microfiber towel to rinse.
Maintenance cleaning- use a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 10:1 ratio) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time
Stubborn stains- dependent upon the leathers condition or how dirty it is consider using a leather-cleaning product. (Leatherique's Prestine Clean, Zaino Leather in a bottle, Groit's Leather Cleaner or Autoglym Leather Cleaner)
2. Conditioning- recommend a preventative maintenance routine three to four times a year, once prior to the winter season to prevent cold temperatures cracking the leather, and once before the heat of the summer to prevent deterioration and shrinkage by heat, which result in continued cracking of leather. In addition to regular cleaning, leather requires replacement of natural oils; Collagen-based products like Leatherique restore the lost moisture and maintain its natural flexibility. The smell of leather comes from oils evaporating out of the hide. Conditioners are for leather which is porous, vinyl is not, do not use a vinyl product as a conditioner on leather as vinyl requires much stronger cleaning agents than leather and above all try to avoid raw silicone oil based products, as the silicone oil will dissolve the leather's natural oils and tend to make the leather sticky, silicone oils also have a very high electrostatic (static) attraction to dust and dirt particle.
3. (UVR) Protection - you should consider additional sunscreen protection (especially if you own a convertible) leather conditioners typically do not offer any UV screening. The best solution is to alternate between a leather conditioner and a, ultra violet radiation (UVR) protection (303™ Aerospace Protectant). One month use a conditioner to keep the leather healthy and supple. On alternate months mist and wipe the leather with a UVR protection. After application allow 60 minutes for product to cure, then using a 100% cotton cloth to lightly buff surface (Zaino Z-10 contains UVR protection)
Covered Leather (Urethane, Vinyl or MB-Tex):
Since late ‘80s early ‘90s 85% of vehicle manufacturers have used covered leather for their interior upholstery. It’s made from natural hides, but uniquely treated with a light pigmented urethane resin coating or a vinyl covering to make it more viable for automotive seating. It retains the softness of natural top-grain leather but resists fading in direct sunlight, leathers worst enemy
Spills wipe off with a moistened cloth, the urethane resin or the vinyl covering require oils to stop it from drying out (just like a paint system's clear coat) coated leather is permeable and the leather underneath the urethane requires replacement of natural oils, heat will allow the oils to penetrate. Clean, condition and apply a UVR protection as in items 1, 2 & 3 on page 2.
Identifying characteristics- uniform colour and grain patterns; will not scratch easily; water drops will not change colour.
Recommended products-
Urethane Coated Leather- use Zaino Z-10 Leather in a bottle, Einzett 1z leather care or Groit's Leather Care
{Experience; [and the correct information] can be a great teacher}
Leather Three Step Care Cleaning, Conditioning and (UVR) Protection):
1.Cleaning- use a soft horse hair brush (Groit's Leather & Interior Brush) and/or a vacuum to remove any dust, apply a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 6:1 ratio or stronger) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (i.e. a seat back). To remove stubborn dirt or grime gently agitate the surface with a boar's hair cleaning brush (this will not harm the leather) then use a clean, damp Microfiber towel to rinse.
Maintenance cleaning- use a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 10:1 ratio) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time
Stubborn stains- dependent upon the leathers condition or how dirty it is consider using a leather-cleaning product. (Leatherique's Prestine Clean, Zaino Leather in a bottle, Groit's Leather Cleaner or Autoglym Leather Cleaner)
2. Conditioning- recommend a preventative maintenance routine three to four times a year, once prior to the winter season to prevent cold temperatures cracking the leather, and once before the heat of the summer to prevent deterioration and shrinkage by heat, which result in continued cracking of leather. In addition to regular cleaning, leather requires replacement of natural oils; Collagen-based products like Leatherique restore the lost moisture and maintain its natural flexibility. The smell of leather comes from oils evaporating out of the hide. Conditioners are for leather which is porous, vinyl is not, do not use a vinyl product as a conditioner on leather as vinyl requires much stronger cleaning agents than leather and above all try to avoid raw silicone oil based products, as the silicone oil will dissolve the leather's natural oils and tend to make the leather sticky, silicone oils also have a very high electrostatic (static) attraction to dust and dirt particle.
3. (UVR) Protection - you should consider additional sunscreen protection (especially if you own a convertible) leather conditioners typically do not offer any UV screening. The best solution is to alternate between a leather conditioner and a, ultra violet radiation (UVR) protection (303™ Aerospace Protectant). One month use a conditioner to keep the leather healthy and supple. On alternate months mist and wipe the leather with a UVR protection. After application allow 60 minutes for product to cure, then using a 100% cotton cloth to lightly buff surface (Zaino Z-10 contains UVR protection)
Covered Leather (Urethane, Vinyl or MB-Tex):
Since late ‘80s early ‘90s 85% of vehicle manufacturers have used covered leather for their interior upholstery. It’s made from natural hides, but uniquely treated with a light pigmented urethane resin coating or a vinyl covering to make it more viable for automotive seating. It retains the softness of natural top-grain leather but resists fading in direct sunlight, leathers worst enemy
Spills wipe off with a moistened cloth, the urethane resin or the vinyl covering require oils to stop it from drying out (just like a paint system's clear coat) coated leather is permeable and the leather underneath the urethane requires replacement of natural oils, heat will allow the oils to penetrate. Clean, condition and apply a UVR protection as in items 1, 2 & 3 on page 2.
Identifying characteristics- uniform colour and grain patterns; will not scratch easily; water drops will not change colour.
Recommended products-
Urethane Coated Leather- use Zaino Z-10 Leather in a bottle, Einzett 1z leather care or Groit's Leather Care
{Experience; [and the correct information] can be a great teacher}
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#9
Needs more Lemon Pledge
My first recommendation would be to thoroughly clean the seats with either Lexol Cleaner or 303 Cleaner. What you see as "paint" coming off the seats may be dirt build-up. After cleaning, I alternate using 303 Protectant and Lexol conditioner about every two weeks.
If the condition of the seat material is not holding up during regular use and appears to have failed, you may be able to find some relief from the dealership, assuming the car is under warranty.
If the condition of the seat material is not holding up during regular use and appears to have failed, you may be able to find some relief from the dealership, assuming the car is under warranty.
#10
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Originally Posted by alucardx
does the TSX have 'covered leather' ?
Since late ‘80s early ‘90s 85% of vehicle manufacturers have used covered leather for their interior upholstery. It’s made from natural hides, but uniquely treated with a light pigmented urethane resin coating or a vinyl covering to make it more viable for automotive seating. It retains the softness of natural top-grain leather but resists fading in direct sunlight, leathers worst enemy
Spills wipe off with a moistened cloth, the urethane resin or the vinyl covering require oils to stop it from drying out (just like a paint system's clear coat) coated leather is permeable and the leather underneath the urethane requires replacement of natural oils, heat will allow the oils to penetrate. Clean, condition and apply a UVR protection as in items 1, 2 & 3 on page 2.
Identifying characteristics- uniform colour and grain patterns; will not scratch easily; water drops will not change colour.
Recommended products-•Urethane Coated Leather- use Zaino Z-10 Leather in a bottle, Einzett 1z leather care or Groit's Leather Care
•Vinyl or MB-Tex Covered leather- use Groit's Leather Rejuvenator or Leatherique Prestine Clean
Knowledge; [ability to correctly diagnosis problems] [utilizing appropriate methods / products to solve them]
#14
Originally Posted by Lajit-CL
I have the pics, now I need to figure out how to post them. I thought I was computer lit till now!
#17
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Scheduled Maintenance: Once every 30-60 days, Arizona, Florida and Texas, especially in summer, for northern climates between 90-120 days, use a leather conditioner to restore these natural oils and keep the leather soft and supple. (Criot's Leather Care, Autoglym Leather Care Cream, Zanio Z10 Leather in a Bottle or Zymol Treat leather cleaners are all good maintenance products)
#19
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I'm hoping this works, the car needs some serious detailing though I need to know if I should just buy new seats or I can repair these.
Thanks for all the help.
I'm hoping this works, the car needs some serious detailing though I need to know if I should just buy new seats or I can repair these.
Thanks for all the help.
#21
Former Sponsor
The seats are shot, your going to have to consider re-upholstery. You can clean em up pretty good, but whats gone is gone.
As for the rest, getter done by someone, professionaly. Thats too big of a chore. The carpet and mats need extraction.
As for the rest, getter done by someone, professionaly. Thats too big of a chore. The carpet and mats need extraction.
#22
Needs more Lemon Pledge
Wow. Seriously, wow.
#23
Originally Posted by exceldetail
The seats are shot, your going to have to consider re-upholstery. You can clean em up pretty good, but whats gone is gone.
As for the rest, getter done by someone, professionaly. Thats too big of a chore. The carpet and mats need extraction.
As for the rest, getter done by someone, professionaly. Thats too big of a chore. The carpet and mats need extraction.
#24
Doesn't Rice His Car
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Originally Posted by exceldetail
The seats are shot, your going to have to consider re-upholstery. You can clean em up pretty good, but whats gone is gone.
As for the rest, getter done by someone, professionaly. Thats too big of a chore. The carpet and mats need extraction.
As for the rest, getter done by someone, professionaly. Thats too big of a chore. The carpet and mats need extraction.
So will regular conditioning/UV protection prevent this from happening to one of us then?
#26
Senior Moderator
Join Date: May 2003
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1st gen Acura CL?
#27
The Old Grey Whistle Test
See " Scheduled Maintenance: Once every 30-60 days, ..."
Those seats need to be re-finished (not to twist the knife , but how the h**l did they get that way, it's not an overnight thing)
I hope it works out for you . . .
Those seats need to be re-finished (not to twist the knife , but how the h**l did they get that way, it's not an overnight thing)
I hope it works out for you . . .
#28
Former Sponsor
Originally Posted by studville
So will regular conditioning/UV protection prevent this from happening to one of us then?
Leather wont last forever, its entirely up to the elements, and owner.
Dont overcondition either. All that does is attract dust which depletes he protective barrier.
Last edited by exceldetail; 02-10-2007 at 10:27 AM.
#29
TSX is plastic coated pork skin. We had a consensus that diluted 303 was the way to go.
A typical application of conditioner on the plastic coating just meant you were wiping the product onto your clothes when you sat in the car.
Beneficial use of conditioner seems to mean lots of product, cover with plastic wrap, high temps (think FL in the sun), and long dwell. I'll try it out in 90 degree weather, and wash it clean afterward. This may be a beneficial use, but kind of an extreme application process.
Think wipe on wipe off is of no benefit and I'm not looking to buff using my clothes.
A typical application of conditioner on the plastic coating just meant you were wiping the product onto your clothes when you sat in the car.
Beneficial use of conditioner seems to mean lots of product, cover with plastic wrap, high temps (think FL in the sun), and long dwell. I'll try it out in 90 degree weather, and wash it clean afterward. This may be a beneficial use, but kind of an extreme application process.
Think wipe on wipe off is of no benefit and I'm not looking to buff using my clothes.
#31
The hot sun in Hawaii, thigh sweat from the gym, not enough or not the proper conditioning. The first set did that in less that a year and the dealer replaced them. This set took about four years to happen. I might have made it worse by conditioning the fine cracks and then they worsened. The back seat still looks brand new.
#32
Burning Brakes
the absolute best leather care stuff i have used and only use now is ZYMOL, they have a cleaner conditioner set on their website and it is simply amazing.
www.zymol.com
i also use there HD Cleanse, and Japon wax there is nothing out there better i used it once and will never use anything else again simply amazing but not cheap you get what you pay for (they have some waxes over $1000 bucks)
www.zymol.com
i also use there HD Cleanse, and Japon wax there is nothing out there better i used it once and will never use anything else again simply amazing but not cheap you get what you pay for (they have some waxes over $1000 bucks)
#33
Originally Posted by Lajit-CL
The hot sun in Hawaii, thigh sweat from the gym, not enough or not the proper conditioning. The first set did that in less that a year and the dealer replaced them. This set took about four years to happen. I might have made it worse by conditioning the fine cracks and then they worsened. The back seat still looks brand new.
Now your pictures makes sense to me. The red/orange shit all over your carpets and upholstery looked familiar. Me and the wifey are from Hawaii as well. I call that the orange dirt syndrome, but I've never seen it as bad as your car. You must work outside alot in order to track that amount of red dirt into your car. This is the reason why I hardly wear white shoes when I'm visiting Hawaii.
#34
Originally Posted by DeeCee
Now your pictures makes sense to me. The red/orange shit all over your carpets and upholstery looked familiar. Me and the wifey are from Hawaii as well. I call that the orange dirt syndrome, but I've never seen it as bad as your car. You must work outside alot in order to track that amount of red dirt into your car. This is the reason why I hardly wear white shoes when I'm visiting Hawaii.
#35
07 NBP TL Type-S
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Im picking up my car on friday and I've decided to allow myself a $150 budget for detailing supplies initially. My question is, how important would it be to get a leather shampoo and conditioner? Can I just use 303? If I do skimp on the shampoo/conditioner for now, how long should I wait before I get them? Im just really tight on the budget and it's come down to things like getting another sheepskin washmit vs leather conditioner.
#36
You can but 303 is a protectant and doesn't contain conditioning and cleaning agents. You would still need a condtioner. You can use a damp MF towel to clean your seats and follow with a conditioner. Another option is a diluted solution of Woolite (1 part) and Water (12 parts) in a spray bottle. Moisten a MF towel with the solution and gently agitate the area, one section at a time. Rinse with a clean MF towel moistened with water. Let dry and apply conditioner. Check out the DG product line of cleaners and conditioners. Lexol is probably the most popular product for leather care and available OTC almost anywhere.
#37
Doesn't Rice His Car
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I used some lexol conditioner the other day for the first time. It was pretty expensive stuff around my neck of the woods $10/spray bottle. But, WOW, is all I can say. It truly made a difference. I'm wondering how often I should keep up with this?
#38
Former Sponsor
Originally Posted by Bullpup
Im picking up my car on friday and I've decided to allow myself a $150 budget for detailing supplies initially. My question is, how important would it be to get a leather shampoo and conditioner? Can I just use 303? If I do skimp on the shampoo/conditioner for now, how long should I wait before I get them? Im just really tight on the budget and it's come down to things like getting another sheepskin washmit vs leather conditioner.