Today was the first time I've ever used a clay bar. I was using soapy water as lubrication. I tested it out on a small area of the hood that felt a little rough. After claying, I rinsed and dried the area. I was satisfied with the result (it's real smooth), so I moved on to rest of the hood. Again, I rinsed and dried, then I noticed this...





This is the only portion of the hood with such white haze effect. Have I done something wrong? Applied too much force when claying? Not enough lubrication? I'm really worried now that I have damaged the paint somehow. Please advise.

 

Looks like marring to me. I hope you planned on polishing afterwards......

 

Did you constantly apply the lubrication spray? I clayed my '06 for the first time ever, and seen no spots like that.....i was constantly spraying my paint though...

And claying is 'As advertised' BTW....awesome!

 

A claybar is abrasive. Pressure is not necessary when claying. Make sure the surface has a sufficient amount of lubricant. The claybar should meet some resistance and after the 3rd/4th pass it should be smooth and will glide over the surface. As Patrick said, after claying you need to polish to remove the hazing. Polishing will also provide the reflectivity and gloss and create a sterile surface for the final phase - sealing/waxing.

 

I clayed>swirl remover>Polymer sealer on Sat, and I can't believe how good it looks.

 

Im curious as to where did you aquire your knowlege for such a feat!?!?
Seriously........

 

Assuming you are referring to my post, uh you guys are the best.

The whole clay thing was intimidating until I just decided to do it.

I was doing my car in 30F weather outside (I was in the garage) took a long time but it made pics pretty much out of the question.

However, thanks to all of you guys on this site. Exceldetail I will be placing an order for some UPP and finishing pads soon. I used Megs Swirl Remover and NXT as it was available on the shelf, but I think it is time to really make this baby shine.

 

I tried claying my car once in ~40F weather, and not only was my hand freezing cold, but the clay was not very pliable making it hard to get a good wide path of contact with the paint (especially on curved surfaces).

 

Surface scratching:
Like most abrasive products you need to select the appropriate grade of clay and use the correct application methodology; I have only seen detailer’s clay cause marring or scratching on a paint surface due to the following;
(a) Using insufficient lubrication on the paint surface
(b) Too much hand pressure applied, try a 3-inch ‘flat pancake’ shape held between two fingers
(c) Trying to ‘clay’ too large an area (should be 2’ x 2’<)
(d) The ambient temperature is unsuitable; too cold and will not allow sufficient kneading of the clay bar to ensure a 'clean' surface, too hot the lubrication dries out and the clay becomes unstable
(e) You drop the clay and pick up road dirt / grit.
(f) Read the manufacturers' directions for the number of uses of their clay bar. Do not overuse a clay bar
(g) To correct any surface marring / light scratching use a mild polish (Zaino PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner Swirl Remover or Menzerna Final Polish II) using a White or an Orange LC pad, speed 5 – 6
(See also Detailer’s Clay Lubricant)

Detailer’s Clay Lubricant:
Most clay retailers supply their detailing spray (QD) as a lubricant the problem with many of them is that they contain some form of solvent or alcohol. To provide sufficient lubrication the surface must be thoroughly saturated, problem is that a solvent dries out the clay causing it to crumble or breakdown and become soft leaving streaks on the paint surface. Some car wash concentrates will also cause some of the same problems if the clay becomes saturated due to the synthetics and / or solvents used.

The best way to describe the proper method for using detailer clay is to use plenty of the lubricant and aquaplane the clay bar over the surface in straight-line motions. A mild liquid soap (Woolite™) works as a lubricant and is gentle enough that it will not adversely affect either the clay, vehicle paint or trim using a 5:1 solution of distilled water / Woolite™. As an alternative use a 16:1 solution of distilled water and a pH suitable car wash concentrate (Zaino Z-7 Show Car Wash, pH7.0) in a 16 ounce spray bottle

 

no pressure is nessisary when you clay bar the car, just use the lubricant (or soap and water) and slide it along the surface. like previously said, if you drop it dont even think about picking it up and resuing!!!

MAKE SURE TO WAX WHEN DONE!!!

i used the mothers clay bar kit a few times and it was always a great result. if ur patient enogh to ally two caoats of wax (especially paste wax) the results will be amazing.

 

Jesus, how much pressure did you apply?? Let the bar do the work...You're going to need to polish now to get the marring out...

 

you gotta use lots and lots of lube spray.

 

Or....just plan on polishing afterwards. I seriously dont know how one would not consider polishing after claying. Maybe if your just spot claying, you would be ok. But one should EXPECT, marring from clay.

 

WORD! I use Meguiars #83 or #80 or both after claying on 5.5 with my porter cable.
Its just something that happens. What ggsahi has looks like it can be corrected with ease. I was under the impression that Clay is a prep for polishing / waxing anyway. I rarely wax without claying

 

did the water freeze on the car since it was below freezing or were you able to wash it fast enought that you rinced it off before freezing. i started once when it was about 35 degrees out but as it grew dark, temps dropped (january in north east) and by the time i was washing off soap it started to freeze on the car. I had to wait til the next day to finish. Anyway, just curious if you had the same problem.

 

You can use NRWS below freezing if you dare.