I think i ruined my paintjob
#1
I think i ruined my paintjob
I decided to polish my car by using this turtle wax compound. So i washed it with dish soap and let it try. and proceeded with the directions on the package. unfortunately, instead of removing the scratches, it added TONS of swirls all over my paint, and when the light hits it it looks like there is some kind of residue on my car. I have tried running my finger over it to see if there is actually any residue and it feels like my raw paint. what should i do guys? should i wash and use a regular wax?
#2
Former Sponsor
Phee, wished you had been here first! (I bet your thinking the same thing)
Sounds like you have introduced marring into the picture (paint). This is accomlished when you use too aggressive of a polish. The abrasives dont break down thoroughly, and they basically end up "scratching" the surface in the same manner/motion as you used when applying it.
In order to remove something an aggressive polish, left behind, your going to need to put some work into it. But we dont want to use another as aggressive polish, so we need to step it down a tad. This may take some work by hand. And Im afraid to ask how much of the car you did.
Your probably (if selecting over the counter) going to need to attack it with either a Mothers or Meguairs 1-2-3 punch. That would include a light grade abrasive polish, a possible glaze and then a sealant.
Compounds are normally only meant for spot repairs, unless its a compound made for R/O or rotary use, and normally in the hands of an experienced or product knowledgeable detailer.
Anything else on your shelves at home? And dont worry, we can get you out of the woods with this, its just going to take some work, and yes.............you will be sore when its all done. (This may be a good time to consider a UDM or PC though)
Sounds like you have introduced marring into the picture (paint). This is accomlished when you use too aggressive of a polish. The abrasives dont break down thoroughly, and they basically end up "scratching" the surface in the same manner/motion as you used when applying it.
In order to remove something an aggressive polish, left behind, your going to need to put some work into it. But we dont want to use another as aggressive polish, so we need to step it down a tad. This may take some work by hand. And Im afraid to ask how much of the car you did.
Your probably (if selecting over the counter) going to need to attack it with either a Mothers or Meguairs 1-2-3 punch. That would include a light grade abrasive polish, a possible glaze and then a sealant.
Compounds are normally only meant for spot repairs, unless its a compound made for R/O or rotary use, and normally in the hands of an experienced or product knowledgeable detailer.
Anything else on your shelves at home? And dont worry, we can get you out of the woods with this, its just going to take some work, and yes.............you will be sore when its all done. (This may be a good time to consider a UDM or PC though)
#3
Thanks for the quck response. this has never happend and i BABY my car. i usually do a good clean and a polymer wax every week to keep it clean. But i wanted to achieve that wet looks and keep it as slippery as it was when i bought it (have never achieved it). I dont mind elbow grease, i have a polishing mashine, but i like hand work. Its relaxing and fulfilling to see my work pay off. so Lay it on me man!
#4
Need a little more info . . . TW has several types of compunds. Which product did you use and how was it applied? Also some close up pix of the areas would help assess/determine the extent of the damage.
#5
My car looks like this allover
And this is what i used
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...3Doff%26sa%3DN
And this is what i used
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...3Doff%26sa%3DN
#6
2016 E350 Sport
Phee, you should listen to Exceldetail's advice.
1) You should never use dish soap on your paint! It is way too aggressive. It is meant for greasy dishes not a fine painted surface. One should NEVER let a compound, polish, or soap dry on a painted surface.
2) While polishing your car by hand may be relaxing to you. Nothing can touch a machine when it comes to polishing your paint. Removing defects by hand is a chore for a small area. I can not imagine doing the whole car by hand. I normally save hand application for a wax or sealant only.
3) You said you have a polishing machine. Is it a Porter Cable 7424 (PC) or a Ultimate Detailing Machine (UDM)? From what your wrote it looks like a hand polish at this point is not very practical or efficient.
4) I have learned a lot from the various detailing forums on the web and here on Acurazine. I sent you a PM.
I think your paint is probably OK. Another option is to have it detailed by a pro if you do not have the skill or equipment to do it correctly yourself. Then you can start from scratch and maintain a great finish.
1) You should never use dish soap on your paint! It is way too aggressive. It is meant for greasy dishes not a fine painted surface. One should NEVER let a compound, polish, or soap dry on a painted surface.
2) While polishing your car by hand may be relaxing to you. Nothing can touch a machine when it comes to polishing your paint. Removing defects by hand is a chore for a small area. I can not imagine doing the whole car by hand. I normally save hand application for a wax or sealant only.
3) You said you have a polishing machine. Is it a Porter Cable 7424 (PC) or a Ultimate Detailing Machine (UDM)? From what your wrote it looks like a hand polish at this point is not very practical or efficient.
4) I have learned a lot from the various detailing forums on the web and here on Acurazine. I sent you a PM.
I think your paint is probably OK. Another option is to have it detailed by a pro if you do not have the skill or equipment to do it correctly yourself. Then you can start from scratch and maintain a great finish.
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#8
Former Sponsor
I really think the UDM is your best friend here, and a polish or two. I would recommend Optimum Compound (not as aggressive as what you used), followed by Optimum Polish, and both are available in 4oz, 8oz, and 32 oz.. Im not advising you to buy them here and now, but just trying to keep you from waisting more time and energy. It really makes a HUGE difference, and if you like to baby it as stated, its a must. Its money well spent, and it pays for iteself in very short order.
OR..........
You can make some improvement by hand with those 1-2-3 punch items mentioned above.....It wont be perfect, but it will be better. Can you live with it just being better? Thats your decision.......
OR..........
You can make some improvement by hand with those 1-2-3 punch items mentioned above.....It wont be perfect, but it will be better. Can you live with it just being better? Thats your decision.......
#9
Suzuka Master
Dish soap isn't going to hurt your paint if used once or twice a year pre detail .. not on a monthly basis.
You also didn't mention what you used to apply this compound and to remove it.
Its prolly the combination that cause the marring as opposed to just the polish.
Let us know what you used ..
Anyway .... your not going to resolve it by hand ... either take it to a detailer and specifiy to polish it out .. no glazes or spring for a PC , pads & polishes and call it a learning experience.
You also didn't mention what you used to apply this compound and to remove it.
Its prolly the combination that cause the marring as opposed to just the polish.
Let us know what you used ..
Anyway .... your not going to resolve it by hand ... either take it to a detailer and specifiy to polish it out .. no glazes or spring for a PC , pads & polishes and call it a learning experience.
#11
Well guys, i bought the meguirs 1-2-3 and it removed the residue completely. seemed like the scratches were the streaks made by the terry cloth in the polish. i just used the paint cleanr and its a HUGE difference. I will post pics after the polish and the wax. Any recommendations for the next two steps??
oh btw: thanks for the responses.
oh btw: thanks for the responses.
#12
Suzuka Master
use the rest of the 3 step now that you have it but ger rid of the terry towel and get a few microfiber ones. If you are a Costco member thier yellow ones aren't too bad.
#14
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by phee
Alright, i have some Mfiber ones in my room. ill use em. Would an old t-shirt be better?
#22
Suzuka Master
To get that real wet look its in the prep work .. and I doubt you can get there by hand .. your going to have to step up to a PC and the right pads & polishes.. THEN add your sealants and waxes.
#23
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Glad to hear that you overcame the problem man!
One more thing, what is an UDM? Sorry guys, I'm a newbie here
One more thing, what is an UDM? Sorry guys, I'm a newbie here
Last edited by A-SPEK; 01-27-2008 at 08:12 PM.
#25
Safety Car
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by phee
Alright, i have some Mfiber ones in my room. ill use em. Would an old t-shirt be better?
#26
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by vinnier6
t shirts work fine, i have been using them forever...nice soft 100% cotton t shirts are it...if the tag doesnt say 100% cotton, then it doenst touch my car....i also make sure i wash them in liquid detergent, and not powder detergents...powder will be left behind and might cause swirl marks...
#27
Former Sponsor
Originally Posted by vinnier6
t shirts work fine, i have been using them forever...nice soft 100% cotton t shirts are it...if the tag doesnt say 100% cotton, then it doenst touch my car....i also make sure i wash them in liquid detergent, and not powder detergents...powder will be left behind and might cause swirl marks...
"Advice": An opinion recommended or offered, as worthy to be followed; counsel.
I guess we cant fault what works for others, but the advice of others would deter using any t-shirt for detailing (product removal).
Vinn, gimee your address, I will comp you a Supreme MF....
#29
Safety Car
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Jesstzn
Thank you for the bad advice ...
btw, the vw on your website is cool....
Last edited by vinnier6; 01-28-2008 at 05:50 PM.
#30
Suzuka Master
That VW ( that btw has engine covers painted red ) won first in class at the Great Canadian VW show in 05 in Vancouver .. over 650 VW / Audis' there. Owned and detailed by myself.
I'm not knocking the tee shirts .. been there .. done that and moved on ... If I would have used them on the black VW it wouldn't look like that .. the micro marring would be visable. Black is the tell all..
I'm not knocking the tee shirts .. been there .. done that and moved on ... If I would have used them on the black VW it wouldn't look like that .. the micro marring would be visable. Black is the tell all..
#31
Former Sponsor
Originally Posted by DarkSithCL
^ I know terry cloth towels seem to leave a bunch of swirls when I wax... I think I need to go back and repolish and then wax with the proper removal equipment...
#32
Originally Posted by vinnier6
t shirts work fine, i have been using them forever...nice soft 100% cotton t shirts are it...if the tag doesnt say 100% cotton, then it doenst touch my car....i also make sure i wash them in liquid detergent, and not powder detergents...powder will be left behind and might cause swirl marks...
. . .microfiber products have been in existence for more than twenty years, fewer than twenty percent of all car owners use microfiber products to care for their cars.
Comparatively, microfibers are two times finer than silk, three times finer than cotton, eight times finer than wool, and one hundred times finer than a human hair. Currently, there are four types of synthetic microfibers being produced. These include acrylic, nylon, polyester and rayon. In this article, I will be discussing the most common blend of microfiber material used in automotive detailing applications; nylon and polyester.
#33
Hey Patrick- Its my bday!- what do I have to say to get comped a UDM
This dinosaur doesnt like hand cleaning and waxing the TL
This dinosaur doesnt like hand cleaning and waxing the TL
#34
for the deep wet look- I followed Excels advice on multiple coats of wax, and did 3 coats of synthetic with a drying-curing time wait, then hand buff- next coat- repeat, then a coat of carnuba atop all that.
If only I had a UDM....I could make the LGM part of my sig a brite shiny grey
If only I had a UDM....I could make the LGM part of my sig a brite shiny grey
#35
Former Sponsor
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Hey Patrick- Its my bday!- what do I have to say to get comped a UDM
This dinosaur doesnt like hand cleaning and waxing the TL
This dinosaur doesnt like hand cleaning and waxing the TL
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