How to "DE-Hologram"?
Thread Starter
Keep'n it clean- Orlando
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 620
Likes: 13
How to "DE-Hologram"?
Today I noticed my drivers side, has slight holograming down the entire side, I just layered it with carnuba last week and have only lightly washed it since then.
1-is this left over product?- I hope
2-if not how do I rid my car of this horrid sight
1-is this left over product?- I hope
2-if not how do I rid my car of this horrid sight
Thread Starter
Keep'n it clean- Orlando
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 620
Likes: 13
Originally Posted by From a detailing forum
Holograms can be tricky but when using a DA versus a Rotary (which is trickier), that can be avoided. The most common reasons I see for holograms is:
-Finishing with too aggressive of a pad.
-Finishing with too aggressive of a polish
-Working polish too long and polish dries up on you and you are "dry buffing"
-Not working polish long enough so the abrasives do not break down completely
-Using too much polish
-Using too much pressure towards the end of the polishing.
The first two are pretty easy to fix. When looking at pads, if the paint is really soft such as Honda or Infinity paint is, you may need to finish with a finishing pad rather than a polishing pad. In the Adams line up that is the Wax Pad. The least aggresive Adam's brand polish is the Fine Machine Car Polish.
For the third point (working the polish too long that it dries up), you may need to shrink your work section so you are spending less time per application. I often us a 1.5 foot by 1.5 foot section but that may be too large for some polishes, 1 foot by 1 foot may be more appropriate.
For the fourth point (not working the polish long enough), maybe you are not giving the abrasives enough time to break down completely and not allowing them to eliminate the holograms.
The fifth point (using too much polish) is similar to the fourth point in that if you use too much polish, the machine does not have a chance to break down the large abundance of abrasives so when you stop, some of the large, none broken down abrasives are still leaving marks in the paint.
The last point (using too much pressure at the end of polishing a section) can also result in hazing. Before switching over to a rotary, when I used to use my DA, when polishing a section, at first I would use a decent amount of pressure to get more cut out of the polish and pad. However, as I was going, I would be letting off pressure and towards the end I would actually be lifting slightly so less than the weight of the polisher was pressing on the paint. Doing so helps burnish the paint and reduces the likely hood of holograms.
I hope this helps.
-Finishing with too aggressive of a pad.
-Finishing with too aggressive of a polish
-Working polish too long and polish dries up on you and you are "dry buffing"
-Not working polish long enough so the abrasives do not break down completely
-Using too much polish
-Using too much pressure towards the end of the polishing.
The first two are pretty easy to fix. When looking at pads, if the paint is really soft such as Honda or Infinity paint is, you may need to finish with a finishing pad rather than a polishing pad. In the Adams line up that is the Wax Pad. The least aggresive Adam's brand polish is the Fine Machine Car Polish.
For the third point (working the polish too long that it dries up), you may need to shrink your work section so you are spending less time per application. I often us a 1.5 foot by 1.5 foot section but that may be too large for some polishes, 1 foot by 1 foot may be more appropriate.
For the fourth point (not working the polish long enough), maybe you are not giving the abrasives enough time to break down completely and not allowing them to eliminate the holograms.
The fifth point (using too much polish) is similar to the fourth point in that if you use too much polish, the machine does not have a chance to break down the large abundance of abrasives so when you stop, some of the large, none broken down abrasives are still leaving marks in the paint.
The last point (using too much pressure at the end of polishing a section) can also result in hazing. Before switching over to a rotary, when I used to use my DA, when polishing a section, at first I would use a decent amount of pressure to get more cut out of the polish and pad. However, as I was going, I would be letting off pressure and towards the end I would actually be lifting slightly so less than the weight of the polisher was pressing on the paint. Doing so helps burnish the paint and reduces the likely hood of holograms.
I hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Keep'n it clean- Orlando
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 620
Likes: 13
Trending Topics
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 31
I use the last technique posted by Justin.
It's called "Zenith Point Technique".
What I do with my DA is:
1. First two passes on speed 4 with no pressure to spread product.
2. Two passes on speed 5 with moderate pressure.
3. Two passes on speed 6 with heavy pressure.
4. Two passes on speed 5 with moderate pressure.
5. Two passes on speed 4.5 with light pressure, slow down hand movement to jewel the paint.
It's called "Zenith Point Technique".
What I do with my DA is:
1. First two passes on speed 4 with no pressure to spread product.
2. Two passes on speed 5 with moderate pressure.
3. Two passes on speed 6 with heavy pressure.
4. Two passes on speed 5 with moderate pressure.
5. Two passes on speed 4.5 with light pressure, slow down hand movement to jewel the paint.
Chapter Leader (San Antonio)
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 6,022
Likes: 437
From: Houston, Texas
I think I read somewhere that it could also be that the pad is dry when you apply the polish. If I'm not mistaken, that could cause "holograms" and swirls.
I usually get a QD and spray the pad before applying the polish.
Could the Hologram not show up immediately after polishing?
I usually get a QD and spray the pad before applying the polish.
Could the Hologram not show up immediately after polishing?
Suzuka Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,424
Likes: 294
From: Trail BC CanaDUH
They could not show up if hidden by the oils in the polish then the LSP cleaned up the oils etc. Thus my question on how did he polish and what did he use ... and I guess what LSP and what were his completes steps.
Thread Starter
Keep'n it clean- Orlando
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 620
Likes: 13
I use the last technique posted by Justin.
It's called "Zenith Point Technique".
What I do with my DA is:
1. First two passes on speed 4 with no pressure to spread product.
2. Two passes on speed 5 with moderate pressure.
3. Two passes on speed 6 with heavy pressure.
4. Two passes on speed 5 with moderate pressure.
5. Two passes on speed 4.5 with light pressure, slow down hand movement to jewel the paint.
It's called "Zenith Point Technique".
What I do with my DA is:
1. First two passes on speed 4 with no pressure to spread product.
2. Two passes on speed 5 with moderate pressure.
3. Two passes on speed 6 with heavy pressure.
4. Two passes on speed 5 with moderate pressure.
5. Two passes on speed 4.5 with light pressure, slow down hand movement to jewel the paint.
I polished using the new PC XP, with a moderate polish "orange uber pad" then went to pads with less cut and more finesse as i got to the lighter polishes to bring out the shine.
Thread Starter
Keep'n it clean- Orlando
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 620
Likes: 13
did that tonight, and since I may not have time to assess before driving tomorrow I applied a layer of nuba for protection obviously. Car looks amazing btw, I am assuming the dawn helped lift all the old wax and hazing, I have NEVER seen my car look so good, the depth and wetness/gloss was unreal.... I remember exactly what I was looking at the other day as far as the holograming goes so I will inspect tomorrow and report back to see if anything was improved.
