Cleaning 4G Leather Surfaces
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 311
Likes: 2
From: San Francisco, CA
Cleaning 4G Leather Surfaces
I have the taupe seats and while they look great, they get dirty very fast. And they show stains like nuts.
My 2006 TL had the harder/thicker leather surfaces which cleaned easily with just a damp cloth -- though I gently used a Magic Sponge (and followed-up with conditioner) for really, really bad spots which came perfectly clean. When I traded it in, the seats looked brand new!
But in the 4G, the leather is very, very soft. The bolsters aren't NEARLY as firm. I'm afraid that using even a terry cloth might rub them raw.
I'm not a huge fan of Lexol's cleaner because IMHO it doesn't work well, although their conditioner is great.
Any suggestions?
My 2006 TL had the harder/thicker leather surfaces which cleaned easily with just a damp cloth -- though I gently used a Magic Sponge (and followed-up with conditioner) for really, really bad spots which came perfectly clean. When I traded it in, the seats looked brand new!
But in the 4G, the leather is very, very soft. The bolsters aren't NEARLY as firm. I'm afraid that using even a terry cloth might rub them raw.
I'm not a huge fan of Lexol's cleaner because IMHO it doesn't work well, although their conditioner is great.
Any suggestions?
I feel strongly both ways
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 617
Likes: 11
From: NYC
I have the taupe seats and while they look great, they get dirty very fast. And they show stains like nuts.
My 2006 TL had the harder/thicker leather surfaces which cleaned easily with just a damp cloth -- though I gently used a Magic Sponge (and followed-up with conditioner) for really, really bad spots which came perfectly clean. When I traded it in, the seats looked brand new!
But in the 4G, the leather is very, very soft. The bolsters aren't NEARLY as firm. I'm afraid that using even a terry cloth might rub them raw.
I'm not a huge fan of Lexol's cleaner because IMHO it doesn't work well, although their conditioner is great.
Any suggestions?
My 2006 TL had the harder/thicker leather surfaces which cleaned easily with just a damp cloth -- though I gently used a Magic Sponge (and followed-up with conditioner) for really, really bad spots which came perfectly clean. When I traded it in, the seats looked brand new!
But in the 4G, the leather is very, very soft. The bolsters aren't NEARLY as firm. I'm afraid that using even a terry cloth might rub them raw.
I'm not a huge fan of Lexol's cleaner because IMHO it doesn't work well, although their conditioner is great.
Any suggestions?
AZ Community Team
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 32,488
Likes: 7,771
From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
NO, NO, NO!! to the Magic Eraser (is that what you meant by Magic Sponge?)
Use Woolite. 5 - 10 parts water to 1 part Woolite. Clean with a clean microfiber cloth, then condition. I use Meg's Gold Class, but whatever conditioner works for you.
(Moving to Wash & Wax - better advice, more action)
Use Woolite. 5 - 10 parts water to 1 part Woolite. Clean with a clean microfiber cloth, then condition. I use Meg's Gold Class, but whatever conditioner works for you.
(Moving to Wash & Wax - better advice, more action)
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 311
Likes: 2
From: San Francisco, CA
NO, NO, NO!! to the Magic Eraser (is that what you meant by Magic Sponge?)
Use Woolite. 5 - 10 parts water to 1 part Woolite. Clean with a clean microfiber cloth, then condition. I use Meg's Gold Class, but whatever conditioner works for you.
(Moving to Wash & Wax - better advice, more action)
Use Woolite. 5 - 10 parts water to 1 part Woolite. Clean with a clean microfiber cloth, then condition. I use Meg's Gold Class, but whatever conditioner works for you.
(Moving to Wash & Wax - better advice, more action)
Yeah, I used the Magic Eraser thingie on a ball point ink stain. It worked like a CHARM. And with the conditioner, it never looked damaged, but took the ink right out!
AZ Community Team
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 32,488
Likes: 7,771
From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Well if you're cleaning up ink all the time, the Woolite isn't going to do you too much good. :lol:
Potential problem with Magic Eraser is removing the top layer (a coating layer?) on the leather and/or affecting the dye. Glad it worked for you.
For "regular" cleaning the Woolite is great. I've got a 3G in Taupe and the leather looks great 2+ years and 30k+ miles.
BTW - no problem on the move. Wasn't exactly the "wrong" forum, it's just that this one is better for your question.
Senior Moderator
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 21,411
Likes: 2,186
From: Space Coast, FL
NEVER use the magic eraser on leather! It takes of quite a bit of the poly coating on the leather that protects it and seals it!
Use a woolite solution to clean up the leather, 5 parts water to 1 part woolite. that is pretty concentrated and should clean up the leather good. Follow up with a damp towel a few times and then dry. Use Lexol leather conditioner if you are in an area where it doesn't get to hot for more than 3 months (NYC for example).
I love Leatherique and it's amazing! Its a bit time consuming, but the results are amazing!
Use a woolite solution to clean up the leather, 5 parts water to 1 part woolite. that is pretty concentrated and should clean up the leather good. Follow up with a damp towel a few times and then dry. Use Lexol leather conditioner if you are in an area where it doesn't get to hot for more than 3 months (NYC for example).
I love Leatherique and it's amazing! Its a bit time consuming, but the results are amazing!
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The Old Grey Whistle Test
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 18
From: Florida / England
Leather used in Automobiles
The most fundamental question to be answered before you clean or care for leather is to establish the type of leather used in the vehicle and / or finish applied (natural, pigmented, vinyl, urethane coating)
Automotive leather care is a subject surrounded with misinformation and myth. Products such as leather (Saddle) soaps, oil-based Conditioners, Neat-foot oil, and Hide Food still prevail as top sellers, albeit most are made for equestrian tack. These are very different leathers with drastically differing care requirements. The exact reason for this type of misapplication is unclear.
It’s possible that there is an association with old world quality (i.e. European automobiles with leather upholstery and real burl wood interiors) with these types of products, despite the fact that the automotive industry has been using water-based polyurethane covered pigmented leather for many years.
As materials and production methods that are used change; we need to adapt our product usage and application methodologies to change with them
The most fundamental question to be answered before you clean or care for leather is to establish the type of leather used in the vehicle and / or finish applied (natural, pigmented, vinyl, urethane coating)
Automotive leather care is a subject surrounded with misinformation and myth. Products such as leather (Saddle) soaps, oil-based Conditioners, Neat-foot oil, and Hide Food still prevail as top sellers, albeit most are made for equestrian tack. These are very different leathers with drastically differing care requirements. The exact reason for this type of misapplication is unclear.
It’s possible that there is an association with old world quality (i.e. European automobiles with leather upholstery and real burl wood interiors) with these types of products, despite the fact that the automotive industry has been using water-based polyurethane covered pigmented leather for many years.
As materials and production methods that are used change; we need to adapt our product usage and application methodologies to change with them
An extract from one of a series of 110 in-depth, unbiased detailing articles © TOGWT ™ Ltd Copyright 2002-2009, all rights reserved.
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