Front Sway Bar installation woes
#1
Front Sway Bar installation woes
So i have a H&R front sway bar sitting here and can't find a place to install.
I took it a local shop and he said he would need a cradle to hold something in place, he was talking 10 miles a minute..Point of story, he couldn't install it. He tried dropping the subframe (just loosening the 14x1.5mm bolts) but still didn't have the clearance. He said he could do it with the aid of a 300 part that supports something.
Local Acura dealership wants 600 for install, they also said the subframe needs to be dropped out etc..
So anyone have any experience installing a front sway bar in the TL? If so how much did you pay to have it installed. Seems like this part wasn't made to be changed out easily. Tips or tricks?
I took it a local shop and he said he would need a cradle to hold something in place, he was talking 10 miles a minute..Point of story, he couldn't install it. He tried dropping the subframe (just loosening the 14x1.5mm bolts) but still didn't have the clearance. He said he could do it with the aid of a 300 part that supports something.
Local Acura dealership wants 600 for install, they also said the subframe needs to be dropped out etc..
So anyone have any experience installing a front sway bar in the TL? If so how much did you pay to have it installed. Seems like this part wasn't made to be changed out easily. Tips or tricks?
#2
you have to drop the subframe and whole engine cradle in the front of the car....no point in doing this really...the front sway bar is adequate enough for pretty much any abuse you throw at it...unless you want to induce understeer for some reason then stick with the stock front sway bar
#4
^^ Doesn't Sound hard at all, A good DIY Weekend. LOL J/K Try and find a Local Shop with Experience and see if they charge you cheaper than the Acura. I hate when all these local shops never can do shit cause they don't have the proper equipment. Also make sure they don't talk a mile a minute. They might hit you with something you didn't get the first time and F#@& Up your Ish
#5
Over the years many have decided that it's too much hassle. There are many, many posts alerting people to this.
IHC is a maniac. I am merely a wannbe shade-tree mechanic (if that), but I've got a pretty good feel for what's outta my league and this DIY is one of them.
IHC is a maniac. I am merely a wannbe shade-tree mechanic (if that), but I've got a pretty good feel for what's outta my league and this DIY is one of them.
#6
I've read people don't do this mod because they think there is little to no difference in handling characteristics, but didn't read about people having install problems.
Well live an learn, Just seems to labor intensive for me with ground jacks and hand tools.
#8
There's a big handling difference when coupled with a 24mm rsb. The turn-in and precision of the steering along with high speed stability are increased. Body roll is nearly eliminated. It's a very worthwhile mod especially if you do the labor yourself. I wouldn't do it unless you have at least a 24mm Progress bar on stiff in the rear.
I did it on my back with a jack on the side of the street in the dark between 8PM and midnight. It just sort of happened that way and that's mostly to blame for it taking so long. You don't need to suspend the subframe with anything other than a jack at the rear. You don't drop the subframe, you just loosen it with the front 4 bolts and take the rest out completely. It won't go anywhere, trust me. There are other things holding the engine and trans in there.
It's all about twisting the swaybar properly to get it around all of the crap in the way. Be careful because the H&R instructions said to install the sticker toward the ground. It didn't make any sense but I did it anyway. I spent an hour trying to get it in like that and realized once it was in that it was upside down. Either the sticker was in the wrong place or the instructions were wrong.
A shop with a lift and light lol, it's about a 1hr job with a good mechanic, 2 hours at most with a poor/average mechanic.
Make sure to get an alignment when you're done.
I did it on my back with a jack on the side of the street in the dark between 8PM and midnight. It just sort of happened that way and that's mostly to blame for it taking so long. You don't need to suspend the subframe with anything other than a jack at the rear. You don't drop the subframe, you just loosen it with the front 4 bolts and take the rest out completely. It won't go anywhere, trust me. There are other things holding the engine and trans in there.
It's all about twisting the swaybar properly to get it around all of the crap in the way. Be careful because the H&R instructions said to install the sticker toward the ground. It didn't make any sense but I did it anyway. I spent an hour trying to get it in like that and realized once it was in that it was upside down. Either the sticker was in the wrong place or the instructions were wrong.
A shop with a lift and light lol, it's about a 1hr job with a good mechanic, 2 hours at most with a poor/average mechanic.
Make sure to get an alignment when you're done.
#9
^^ Doesn't Sound hard at all, A good DIY Weekend. LOL J/K Try and find a Local Shop with Experience and see if they charge you cheaper than the Acura. I hate when all these local shops never can do shit cause they don't have the proper equipment. Also make sure they don't talk a mile a minute. They might hit you with something you didn't get the first time and F#@& Up your Ish
#10
has anyone else tried this stunt yet?
IHC how low do you think your back side dropped, i'm trying to gauge a safe travel before cooling lines and electrical wires (AKA "the other things holding the engine" ) start getting ripped apart
and another thing the four bolts on the fronts ... is that two long and two short ones on the diagram? cause it looks like only the long ones actually go through, so that would make it 2 rather than 4
i hope it makes more sense to look at the underside than at the diagram
thanks!
IHC how low do you think your back side dropped, i'm trying to gauge a safe travel before cooling lines and electrical wires (AKA "the other things holding the engine" ) start getting ripped apart
and another thing the four bolts on the fronts ... is that two long and two short ones on the diagram? cause it looks like only the long ones actually go through, so that would make it 2 rather than 4
i hope it makes more sense to look at the underside than at the diagram
thanks!
#12
you don't need to drop the frame entirely, just take out a few bolts to drop it a bit to gain some clearance... i just had this done, my mechanic said it wasn't that bad.. he also replaced the subframe due to rust on my 02 type s and said my 06 TL was not nearly as hard of a job as the 02..
it didn't take him long, although he was using a hoist
it didn't take him long, although he was using a hoist
#13
Thanks for replying but I don't have a hoist and I don't really want to loosen that subframe without proper tools and having to realign and possibly messing something up. I have a small 1 car garage and not much room. So again.. Is it possible to swap the fsb if I remove the rack and pinion with it.. I bet nobody knows..
#14
Thanks for replying but I don't have a hoist and I don't really want to loosen that subframe without proper tools and having to realign and possibly messing something up. I have a small 1 car garage and not much room. So again.. Is it possible to swap the fsb if I remove the rack and pinion with it.. I bet nobody knows..
#15
I know about the alignment but I also thought the engine and trans sits on that subframe.. ?? If it does then if it is shifted then it might cause some binding on the gears or axles.. Anyways.. A new rack isn't that hard to replace.. I did it on a camaro once. Plus this car needs both to be replaced anyway. So if it was doable without lowering the subframe then I would do it myself. Otherwise it might have to wait until I get a bigger garage..
#16
I know about the alignment but I also thought the engine and trans sits on that subframe.. ?? If it does then if it is shifted then it might cause some binding on the gears or axles.. Anyways.. A new rack isn't that hard to replace.. I did it on a camaro once. Plus this car needs both to be replaced anyway. So if it was doable without lowering the subframe then I would do it myself. Otherwise it might have to wait until I get a bigger garage..
It's perfectly fine to do it the way everyone else has always done it and without problems by dropping the subframe. It will make it easier to do the rack too. You're only loweing it 6" toward the rear. The front two bolts never come out. An alignment shop will shift the subframe around when needed anyway so once you get it aligned you can rest assured the subframe is in proper alignment.
#17
I doubt anyone has done the two together.
It's perfectly fine to do it the way everyone else has always done it and without problems by dropping the subframe. It will make it easier to do the rack too. You're only loweing it 6" toward the rear. The front two bolts never come out. An alignment shop will shift the subframe around when needed anyway so once you get it aligned you can rest assured the subframe is in proper alignment.
It's perfectly fine to do it the way everyone else has always done it and without problems by dropping the subframe. It will make it easier to do the rack too. You're only loweing it 6" toward the rear. The front two bolts never come out. An alignment shop will shift the subframe around when needed anyway so once you get it aligned you can rest assured the subframe is in proper alignment.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjBlfbLiCWw
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