truonghthe

The RL only drain 2.5 quart each time instead of the 3 - 3.5 quart in the TL this because the retarded splash guard design in the RL.

TypeS4SS

Well Said-

I agree. I want the relationship w my vehicle to last. I must keep it up...

NoTLoud

Maybe I have just been unlucky with my car, but no matter what I do, I just can't seem to get it to drive properly.

Purchased the car at 100,500 miles, currently have 112,300. Owned the car for 10 months now. Timing belt was done. Front and side engine mounts were done.

• Battery dies on day 7 of owning. Replace and remove HFL to avoid any issues.
• CEL comes on day 10 of owning - bad O2 sensor, dealer replaces on good will
• Starter dies a month or two later.
• OEM struts and springs were going, car was bouncing around on the highway, so I repalced with Tein Street Advance Z coilovers. Car stiffened up a lot.
• LCA compliance bushings were torn, replaced with OEM bushings. Car seemed to be more stable at higher speeds (70MPH+).
• Car was jerking between 1st and 2nd gear (5AT). I replaced 2 of the three tranny mounts that were torn. Jerking went away.
• After lowering and replacing compliance bushings, car is shaking during acceleration. I replaced the axles with Raxles and still have the shaking. Issue is getting slightly worse every month. It has been 5 months since this issue has started. Still no fix. Dealership showed me some play in the inner joint of the passenger side axle.

Currently, the car drives like shit about 50% of the time I turn it on. Sometimes it's smooth, other times it's rough. For example, on my way to work today, it was a shitty drive. Something just feels really numb and loose. Bump steer is really bad right now. Steering wheel has some play that I don't like. About 100% sure I need another alignment, but most of the issues were prevalent prior to a good bottoming out where I scraped my subframe hard.

Generally, the car is shaking slightly at highway speeds. 90% of the shaking seems to be through the floor of the car, not the steering wheel. I do have some brake pulsation at higher speeds, but it's intermittent as well. I feel like this could all be related, but after 5 months, I'm so frustrated, I have no idea what to do next. Alignment is a must, but I know it won't fix some of the issues.

I'm beginning to think it's either a suspension related component or my rear engine mount. Car feels smooth accelerating downhills, but will shake going uphill. Again, it's intermittent, sometimes accelerating uphill, the car will be smooth. It's very strange and I lose sleep at night trying to figure out what is wrong.

GhostTL09

iTrader: (1)

Picture of your Type-S?

MrZuno

DMZ

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mayjarjar

Hey I have a 2008 Base 5AT with 92k miles and it won't rev past 2k rpms when in 5th gear. I put the pedal to the metal and it just doesn't budge. The transmissions shifts smoothly and all other gears operate as they should. Do you think replacing the app sensor would fix my issue?? I'm going to replace transmission fluid since I'm nearing 30k miles since the last drain and refill. I dont think there's anything physically wrong with the transmission though..

1black_seven

iTrader: (2)

I must have a lucky coin stuck in my dash somewhere, I have never experienced any major issue yet with either TL.
Currently I have 166k miles on my type-s 5AT and 178k on my type-s 6MT. The only issue I've had so far is the HFL burning out and a dead starter that was changed at 140k miles.

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

I've got 112,000 on my '07 Type S-still runs great. Plus, when I walk away, I still look back at it and smile.

Gregster62

I have 190,000 on my 07' Type S. The usual repairs-made myself-Lower compliance bushings, all motor mounts and upper transmission mount, rebuilt power steering pump-started leaking at 165,000 a $1.00 o-ring is really all you need!. All 4 struts-Koni Str.t's and getting ready to do the CV axles both sides. Also right front wheel bearing. All this would be kind of expensive at the dealer. Cheap if you can do things yourself, highly recommend it.
I love the car the more I own it, that's the weird part!

DMC12

153,000 miles here. The only thing that ever failed on me was the starter, but being a manual I could pop the clutch to get it going and it didn't leave me stranded. Everything else that was ever replaced was just normal wear and tear items.

DMZ

270K on my unofficial Type-S. I'm the original owner and although I've done a bunch of work over the last few years, I'm STILL flying high!
Much of the work performed by Paul, our star master mechanic in Nawth Jerzy...........

Timing Belt/Water pump
Clutch and Flywheel
Motor mounts
Valves adjusted
Rear stabilizer bar end links, bushings, and brackets
Spark plugs
All Hoses
Horns
Headlights and ignitor
Navigation DVD rebuilt
CD Player rebuilt
Bluetooth/HFL module
PCV Valve
Brake light switch
Rear brake calipers
Bulbs in Steering wheel and around Nav screen
Shift knob
Glovebox trunk switch
Battery Cables
Front seat leather
Accelerator Sensor
Hood struts
Exhaust System Flex Pipe
Added backup camera and DRL module
A/C Compressor-5 yrs ago
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Heather Mitchell

Hello,
I have been looking at a 2008 type s with 94k on it. I absolutely LOVE the look and the speed. It's a HOTT car. I'm a super practical person, I'm still driving my 97 Honda accord because it's paid off and hasn't caused me any problems. I'm having a hard time commiting because I can't afford a payment and repairs. Regular maintenance, of course but I always seem to buy lemons (aside from my Accord). This would be my daily driver. I'm not racing anyone just trying to get to and from home and work - daily. I won't sup it up or modify anything. Can I rest assured that this car will be reliable for another 100k without any expense repairs? Pull out your crystal ball before answering if you must.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Well yes and no. Like any other 10+ year old car, there will be repairs which will need to be done. I daily my 2006 (which has no payment) and opted to put in roughly $5,000 of preventative maintenance earlier this year so as to make it pretty much good to go for the next 100,000 miles.

Under the assumption you are looking to buy a Type-S automatic, there will be periodic maintenance on the transmission (ATF and sensor changes), a timing belt and tune up will be due at the 105,000 mile mark, figure a few hundred dollars either side of $1,000 for that work. Then there will be ongoing tires, brakes, exhaust, and typical belts and hoses; I figure I'm going to budget maybe $1,500 per year for this type of stuff going forward.

Long story short, if you stay in front of the maintenance, the car will be relatively inexpensive to keep on the road for a car of that era in this market segment; that said, it sounds like you are planning on financing the car, and when the maintenance costs are added to the payment, you will quickly start encroaching on the price of financing a new car.

Good luck in your hunt for a new car and keep us posted on what you end up with.

MyGuti

^^thats money

Pair of TLs

$1500 sounds right, too. ('shoez prolly has receipts and a spreadsheet.)

I always budgeted about $100/month and none of my cars wants for anything.

If I wanted a DD TL, I'd look for one with the belt/wp already done and the ATF done, twice at least and perhaps new brakes. Interior has to be "like new" and show pride of ownership. Save a few $K...
Hard to tell the diff between 94K & 132K, ya know?
If you want the HOTNESS of a Type-S, go for it!
My experience is they'll go 50K with only fluid changes & TLC unless you do a lot of potholes or bump into things. So, when you get to 175K range you should have a $5K nest egg (unless you go buying fancy stuff like some of us do) at which time you will be asking yourself (and us, I hope) the exact same question.

1fstTL

iTrader: (1)

original owner - 2007 tl-s 102k miles 6mt no issues EVER, oh wait my passenger tire PSI level was low once.....

nick04tl

You should have no problem getting to 200k as long as you keep maintaining your car. The fuel cap message is your purge valve. Its an easy fix.

3GTLFan

Couple things to note about the 2008 TL Type S in 2022. These vehicles are very high maintenance.. do NOT believe anyone on here that says otherwise. The Maintenance on these cars is very very expensive if u want to keep them running at peak performance. If you don't mind driving around a 10 sec 0-60 gas guzzling tank then keep on driving without doing any work.. probably be fine but the civics will start to smoke u.
at 100k miles these cars need ALOT of work to restore the lost stock power.
you will need:
​new coils
new timing belt
New water pump
valve adjustment
transmission fluid change
all this is easily 2k if you're no mechanic

Things that ppl dont tell you...
You'll need a new AC actuator
you'll need 3 new Cat Converters
you'll need a new power steering pump
Youll want a new dash and new seats....
.....
Time has told us all.. some people don't like to admit it but these cars have not help up well. The headliners sag.. the dashboards look like a desert
the seats are the worst fake leather I have ever seen in a car period.
if you're buying a used TL at 100k+ miles be prepared to spend upwards of $2k to restore lost STOCK power levels

If you ask me these cars are one of Hondas biggest money pits because they were made during of the worst economic recessions in US history, and they have TONS of maintenance if you want em running perfect.
with the cost of one of these clean staying up in the mid $10k range.. theyre huge rip offs. There are much better cars out there for the price. Don't waste money.

Pair of TLs

Reviving a 2018 thread in 2022 just to smear poop on the walls is just kinda snowflakish.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

@3GTLFan, there you go trolling again; I guess you figured a thread which is over three years old is a safe place to spread all of your half truths and fabrications. Sorry, you'll need to find a rock to hide under to keep from getting blow back.

jeffstlnote

Hi...I am 3GTLFan, I am currently developing a new car that'll last 500,000 miles and it ONLY requires refueling. Zero maintenance because every part is made from fairy dust. More info here.. www.imanidiot.com

Midnight Mystery

@3GTLFan You're SO right.... My 2007 TL and 2006 Accord V6 have both gotten so slow past 100K miles I get dusted by dump trucks and mail jeeps all day long.


Just sayin'...

3GTLFan

As long as people know how high maintenance and expensive these cars are BEFORE they go buy one.. that's the most important thing. Just trying to get an honest opinion out that would have been useful go me when i was looking into buying one. 👏 by all means go and get one but buyer beware in my opinion. I haven't stopped pouring money into it since I got it. 150k true miles. Type S.

Midnight Mystery

@3GTLFan These cars aren't a Toyota Corolla, not saying that the Corolla isn't maitance free either, but in general, a TL is going to be more involved maitance wise. Look, I was just like you say 5 years ago, thinking a used car is going to be perfect and maitance free if it is a Japanese brand. I had one Toyota like that, that's it. Every other car I've had has always needed something here or there, to be expected.

Both of my V6 Hondas feel strong as ever, however, my old 2008 TL 3.2 did lack some if it's low end torque. I'm thinking it needed spark plugs but I sold the car shortly after buying it.

Also, maitance is substantially cheaper when you DIY. Only reason I pay a shop is because I lack the time, tools and experience to get the work done in a sensible amount of time without any fuss.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Do you honestly believe any older used car from any manufacturer is going to be maintenance free? Seriously, if you do then you need a reality check.

truonghthe

Its high maints because I can't clutch dump at 6k RPM like my EK Civic. You know the civic that showing up in a car and coffee that keep bouncing off the rev limiter in his B16 JDM swap?

nist7

Lol....if someone thinks a 3G TL is "high maintenance" they should probably stick to pure econoboxes....on the whole order of sports car maintenance cost/headache spectrum...a 3G TL is probably just ONE notch above pure econobox tier....there are MANY many cars that is WAY above in maintenance...

Midnight Mystery

Well said

Legend2TL

Have maintained two current Honda J motors (2003 Pilot with 325k miles and 2005 Tl with 140k miles both bought new) there is extremely little difference in the overall maintenance cost of the J35A4 and J32A3. Both get new plugs and TB/water pump/belts ~110k miles. Also there has been no noticeable drop or change in performance in either motor in 2 decades. J-series is a great motor for many reasons, only negative for me is it has a TB, nuff said.

Midnight Mystery

Honestly a TB is probably better in the long run. I used to be on team chain, but after having the chain stretch in our RDX with 314K miles and jump time, I'm team belt because it's occasionally changed out for fresh rubber and tensioners! I just feel like those things start to matter after the first 250K miles pass

DMZ

354K miles! The unofficial Type-S for 2004. Getting a new clutch tomorrow. End of the month (January 31st) will be 18 years to the day since I placed the order.
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