TL Type S reliability after 100k miles
#1
TL Type S reliability after 100k miles
My 07 TL Type S AT has just reached 95k miles and my extended warranty is just about over so I'm wondering if its worth spending more maintenance money (timing belt, water pump, etc and keep the car.
I have had alot of problems with it in the past. Everything from fried computer from some A/C hose, bad control arm, bad mirror actuators (replaced 3 times), and now it keeps telling me to tighten the gas cap all the time...
I was wondering if ppl on here have alot more than 100k miles and how their car has been. Please share your experience...more miles the better.
I have had alot of problems with it in the past. Everything from fried computer from some A/C hose, bad control arm, bad mirror actuators (replaced 3 times), and now it keeps telling me to tighten the gas cap all the time...
I was wondering if ppl on here have alot more than 100k miles and how their car has been. Please share your experience...more miles the better.
#3
first and foremost, a car is a machine that wears out over time.
any moving part will wear.
in order to maintain the vehicle, you have to replace parts when they go bad.
this applies to all vehicles.
so, if you spend X amount of dollars on maintaining the vehicle a year, it will still be a whole let less than buying a brand new car.
at 100k miles, the engine is just getting broken in. there is a lot more life left from the engine, however, it'll be the small moving parts that go out sooner than the engine will.
it will then be your decision on whether to keep maintaining it, or buy a brand new $35-40k vehicle.
any moving part will wear.
in order to maintain the vehicle, you have to replace parts when they go bad.
this applies to all vehicles.
so, if you spend X amount of dollars on maintaining the vehicle a year, it will still be a whole let less than buying a brand new car.
at 100k miles, the engine is just getting broken in. there is a lot more life left from the engine, however, it'll be the small moving parts that go out sooner than the engine will.
it will then be your decision on whether to keep maintaining it, or buy a brand new $35-40k vehicle.
The following 6 users liked this post by justnspace:
Acura_Dude (07-11-2014),
DMZ (08-11-2017),
kev08wdp (07-10-2014),
MRG061 (11-21-2018),
smek007 (07-10-2014),
and 1 others liked this post.
#4
My 06 runs so well that I'm actually concerned about replacing it when the time comes- some of the newer cars are more technically superior and therefore, more complicated, and subsequently, less reliable. I'm at 100K miles now (actually, 99,500) and I hope to keep mine running for as long as possible. The 105K service can be done for less than $1000 depending on who does it, and then you're good for quite a while more. As justnspace said, to replace what you have will cost at least $35-40K so typically, you're better off paying a little now to keep driving, otherwise you're making payments of at least $500 per month for several years. A payment free car is worth it.
The following 2 users liked this post by erdoc48:
Acura_Dude (07-11-2014),
smek007 (07-10-2014)
Trending Topics
#8
Not the Type-S, but a friend of mine has ~240k on his, it's either an 04 or 05. He didn't even do the timing belt service at 105k, finally did it at ~200k. It was his dad's old car. His dad drives an '08 TL now. They both love them.
One of my work contacts (sales) drives 40-50k miles per year. He put about 250k on his 3rd gen before trading it in for a 4th gen.
One of my work contacts (sales) drives 40-50k miles per year. He put about 250k on his 3rd gen before trading it in for a 4th gen.
#10
Approaching 200k on my 07TL-S.
No problems other than a power steering pump recall, regular oil changes, brakes, rotations, + major service at 120K (timing belt, etc).
The only little issue I've had was the 'tighten gas cap' which is probably a sensor. My mirror actuators are slowly going and the blue tint on my side mirrors are fading.
Small things aside the car has been bullet proof!
Steve
No problems other than a power steering pump recall, regular oil changes, brakes, rotations, + major service at 120K (timing belt, etc).
The only little issue I've had was the 'tighten gas cap' which is probably a sensor. My mirror actuators are slowly going and the blue tint on my side mirrors are fading.
Small things aside the car has been bullet proof!
Steve
The following users liked this post:
Timstandupguy (07-13-2014)
#11
Check the gasket on your gas cap and if it's not cracked, replace your purge control solenoid valve (P/N 36162-RDV-J01), located next to your throttle body. It's not too expensive and easy to DIY.
You can order parts from acuraoemparts.com, the purge valve is ~$90 plus shipping.
This car is very reliable. ~85k miles on mine now, 2nd owner. Only issues I've had were the purge control solenoid valve and the starter. My last car, a Volvo S60R, had already racked up over $2k in replacement parts and labor by this time. And I always take care of my cars maintenance wise, but I don't baby them when it comes to driving.
You can order parts from acuraoemparts.com, the purge valve is ~$90 plus shipping.
This car is very reliable. ~85k miles on mine now, 2nd owner. Only issues I've had were the purge control solenoid valve and the starter. My last car, a Volvo S60R, had already racked up over $2k in replacement parts and labor by this time. And I always take care of my cars maintenance wise, but I don't baby them when it comes to driving.
Last edited by FamilyGuy; 07-11-2014 at 02:52 PM.
#12
144k on mine and it doesn't feel the least bit tired. About 85k I've put on. Nothing but regular maintenance stuff. Brakes, oil changes, 105K service, tires, just put on shocks, car has been super easy to own. Only non maintenance thing is I've put an alternator on at ~140k, but I also have a pretty healthy audio system that taxes the stock charging system pretty well.
Last edited by DiamondJoeQuimby; 07-11-2014 at 03:35 PM.
#14
The auto transmission in the Type S models has generally been solid too, without the problems of the earlier base models.
I've only just surpassed 50K last week on mine, but its reliability seems to be keeping me from pulling the trigger on something more entertaining but less bulletproof, the BMW E39 540i/6.
I've only just surpassed 50K last week on mine, but its reliability seems to be keeping me from pulling the trigger on something more entertaining but less bulletproof, the BMW E39 540i/6.
#15
I just hit 90k on mine. Aside from a minor electrical problem (battery gets drained if I don't drive it at least once every 3 days), it's purring like a kitten. Make sure you really take care of your car as soon as a problem surfaces. I've been getting synthetic oil every 6 months, 91/93 octane, changing all the liquids, adjusting anything that needs adjusting, getting full service when needed, etc. It's japanese bro, it'll outlive you and me if treated properly.
Plus the new TL is garbage so I'd keep this one around a bit longer. Hell I use to drive a 1990 ZX in 2011. I'd keep going if it didn't die
Plus the new TL is garbage so I'd keep this one around a bit longer. Hell I use to drive a 1990 ZX in 2011. I'd keep going if it didn't die
#16
For the has cap just get the new one. Had the same issue with my Audi. It was barely cracked inside that you couldn't even notice unless to took a really close look. Bought the new one for $6 and my CEL was gone I would also keep the car. You already have a good history of the services and stuff. As somebody mentioned earlier: The car is a machine that wears out over time.
#17
I just hit 90k on mine. Aside from a minor electrical problem (battery gets drained if I don't drive it at least once every 3 days), it's purring like a kitten. Make sure you really take care of your car as soon as a problem surfaces. I've been getting synthetic oil every 6 months, 91/93 octane, changing all the liquids, adjusting anything that needs adjusting, getting full service when needed, etc. It's japanese bro, it'll outlive you and me if treated properly.
Plus the new TL is garbage so I'd keep this one around a bit longer. Hell I use to drive a 1990 ZX in 2011. I'd keep going if it didn't die
Plus the new TL is garbage so I'd keep this one around a bit longer. Hell I use to drive a 1990 ZX in 2011. I'd keep going if it didn't die
#18
^brock, it was a tongue in cheek moment.
please dont reach for things that arent there.
if you want to be confrontational, please visit the thread you started in Ramblings, we miss you over there. (yes, that was a call out...Since you abandoned the thread, when it was just getting started)
please dont reach for things that arent there.
if you want to be confrontational, please visit the thread you started in Ramblings, we miss you over there. (yes, that was a call out...Since you abandoned the thread, when it was just getting started)
The following users liked this post:
nttstt444 (07-14-2014)
#20
im at 158k miles and have replaced the following;
Front lower control arms. due to compliance bushings...its a wear and tear item so it eventually will need to be replaced. it was cheaper for me to just buy new control arms vs replacing the bushings.
power steering pump overhaul. ( the 13 dollar fix with all gaskets)
timing belt service at 105k
had an issue with water leaking onto my MICU but that was due to a bad windshield installation
other than that, this car has been rock solid.
Front lower control arms. due to compliance bushings...its a wear and tear item so it eventually will need to be replaced. it was cheaper for me to just buy new control arms vs replacing the bushings.
power steering pump overhaul. ( the 13 dollar fix with all gaskets)
timing belt service at 105k
had an issue with water leaking onto my MICU but that was due to a bad windshield installation
other than that, this car has been rock solid.
#21
^brock, it was a tongue in cheek moment.
please dont reach for things that arent there.
if you want to be confrontational, please visit the thread you started in Ramblings, we miss you over there. (yes, that was a call out...Since you abandoned the thread, when it was just getting started)
please dont reach for things that arent there.
if you want to be confrontational, please visit the thread you started in Ramblings, we miss you over there. (yes, that was a call out...Since you abandoned the thread, when it was just getting started)
#23
Given the low frequency of failures amongst the general TL population for the items you have detailed, it does not appear to be the more intelligible choice in keeping your TL. I would normally jump at the opportunity to recommend holding on to our cars, but something seems generally amiss in the overall construction quality of your specific build, and I would not be surprised if more issues have yet to present itself.
I could be wrong, and I hate to have to resort to such hackneyed expressions as considering your car to be "built on a Friday"...but that's a considerable list in comparison to the general population.
I could be wrong, and I hate to have to resort to such hackneyed expressions as considering your car to be "built on a Friday"...but that's a considerable list in comparison to the general population.
#25
I'm at 261,000 on my 2008 Type S and it has been a great car. Outside of the regular services these are the only items that were replaced due to failure.
* Two Purge Control Valves to take care of the Tighen Gas Cap Message( One at 88k and one at 250k
* App Sensor was replaced around 230K when I received a message that it was not working correctly
* The XM Radio Unit needed to be replaced around 225K( Put one a used one on Ebay for $25.00
Everything else has been working great. Engine and Trans are solid with no leaks etc.
Good Luck!
* Two Purge Control Valves to take care of the Tighen Gas Cap Message( One at 88k and one at 250k
* App Sensor was replaced around 230K when I received a message that it was not working correctly
* The XM Radio Unit needed to be replaced around 225K( Put one a used one on Ebay for $25.00
Everything else has been working great. Engine and Trans are solid with no leaks etc.
Good Luck!
The following users liked this post:
AyyoSeabass (05-03-2019)
#27
Nah forreal though they're bulletproof. Long as you drain and fill every other oil change after you pass 100k (which the car you're buying is).
Make sure the timing belt & water pump were replaced. Make sure the transmission fluid looks good, and you're golden.
The following users liked this post:
MrZuno (08-04-2017)
#29
Just bought a 07 Type S with 140k on it. Is there anything that I could do to make sure it has been taken care of. CARFAX shows last scheduled maintenance at 105k, but I'm going to call and verify that the Timing belt was replaced. Besides that should I do a trans flush or sea foam treatment? Don't know too much about sea foam but a lot of people on here swear by it.
Thanks
Thanks
#30
Three comments:
- Seafoam is roughly akin to l'huile de serpent; don't waste your time or money.
- Don't "flush" your transmission, that is a really nice way to damage it.
- However, do perform what is known as a 3x3x3 ATF service (i.e. drain, fill with three new quarts of DW-1, drive for say a week, and then repeat twice more).
The following users liked this post:
MrZuno (08-06-2017)
#33
#34
Sounds like a lot of work and bother; glad I have a 6MT, drain and refill every 30,000 miles with 2.3 quarts of ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified.
#35
I also glad that I do not have to spend $1300-$2000 to replace the clutch I already had my fair share with MT in the Legend (clutch was good but throw out bearing was shit). Honestly it took 15 mins for each drain and fill.
#36
#38
Three comments:
- Seafoam is roughly akin to l'huile de serpent; don't waste your time or money.
- Don't "flush" your transmission, that is a really nice way to damage it.
- However, do perform what is known as a 3x3x3 ATF service (i.e. drain, fill with three new quarts of DW-1, drive for say a week, and then repeat twice more).
#39
07-08 TL-S and base TL have the same transmission as the RL with minor details being different other than that its identical. The engine on the TL-S and RL is the same but some minor difference in cam and sensor location.