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I finally purchased a 3rd Gen TL!!! - Pics Inside!
So I recently sold my 04 Audi UltraSport, now I'm in the market for a TL. I work for a Honda Dealer and when the 3rd Gen TL's come in I just drool over them. I've found a few in my area that range from $4,000-7,000 and mileage from 108k-171k. This will be my daily driver, commute is about 30 miles round trip, so not much, but weekend driving is always more. I'm trying to figure out if there is any major issues out there that I should be aware of? I know the ones that do come through my shop always seem to be running great, but I also only see a hand full a year. I'm pretty mechanically smart, so feeling shift points, checking the oil and oil cap, making sure all warning lights self check, listening for weird noises while driving/accelerating. Just any help or advice would be great, Also its gonna have to be an Automatic, hurt my left knee over the summer.
Major issues happen most in the 04-06 model and that involve the AT being weak, I am not saying to blow out left and right like 98-05 Honda V6 AT but the fail rate is somewhat higher than normal.
I would recommend you spend extra $$ for the 07-08 model as they got a different transmission which more reliable and MMC offer a few feature that the earlier variant lacks such as AUX port, better cluster LED, MID resolution is better than 04-06, turn signal marker on the side mirror and the revised suspension for better daily drive car. You can also opt for the Type S auto.
here is a list that every TL will eventually has.
1. Dreaded crack dash, its always start around the passenger airbag and spread like wild fire. Don't think you just buy the car and expect Acura to do a "good will" dash replacement.
2. HFL module will goes bad and cause drain on your battery, you can unplug it or buy a new unit and call it a day (easy fix).
3. LCA bushing crack, well this is another easy fix you can buy 2 bushing for $60 and do the labor yourself.
4. IF you go for the 07-08 model then the infamous "tighten gas cap" cause by a bad solenoid which very easy to replace.
Other than that if you buy a higher mileage car nothing much to worry about, just expect some minor oil leaks.
Major issues happen most in the 04-06 model and that involve the AT being weak, I am not saying to blow out left and right like 98-05 Honda V6 AT but the fail rate is somewhat higher than normal.
I would recommend you spend extra $$ for the 07-08 model as they got a different transmission which more reliable and MMC offer a few feature that the earlier variant lacks such as AUX port, better cluster LED, MID resolution is better than 04-06, turn signal marker on the side mirror and the revised suspension for better daily drive car. You can also opt for the Type S auto.
here is a list that every TL will eventually has.
1. Dreaded crack dash, its always start around the passenger airbag and spread like wild fire. Don't think you just buy the car and expect Acura to do a "good will" dash replacement.
2. HFL module will goes bad and cause drain on your battery, you can unplug it or buy a new unit and call it a day (easy fix).
3. LCA bushing crack, well this is another easy fix you can buy 2 bushing for $60 and do the labor yourself.
4. IF you go for the 07-08 model then the infamous "tighten gas cap" cause by a bad solenoid which very easy to replace.
Other than that if you buy a higher mileage car nothing much to worry about, just expect some minor oil leaks.
If I found an 04-06 with relatively low mileage 130k or under with at least one transmission service, then I did another one when I got it, would the transmission be ok? OR do the 04-06 transmissions just crap out even if they are serviced well. Thats what I'm really concerned about bc most of the ones in my area in my price range are 04-06, but one is at 1245k another at 122k and both have good maintenance history
Transmission service history can be deceiving, many people does not take care of the ATF until something is wrong like slipping, flare or jerk during shift. I would spend a carfax for a car that has a good history of owner keeping up with maintains recommended by "user manual".
1st ATF drain and fill should be done around 60k miles and every 30k miles after that, NOTED that Honda ONLY recommended their own ATF. Being the 04-06 model if the owner has transmission service make sure they had it service either from a Honda/Acura dealer or specialist shop using the correct ATF.
The older fluid called Z1 which terrible compare to the new revised DW-1, many people here on AZ will recommend you do a 3x3 (drain and fill 3 times). However my TL-S transmission actually got 6x3 along with new pressure switches and the shifting is better than most new TL. I replace the ATF every 15k miles instead of the recommended 30k.
The final verdict would be check and see if the owner taken care the transmission fluid like it should be and IF you have to buy the car just budget in the factor spending extra $$$ when the AT decide to quit. I am not saying they are 100% crap, there are many owner here has the car since new and still have the original AT with 200k miles or more.
Transmission service history can be deceiving, many people does not take care of the ATF until something is wrong like slipping, flare or jerk during shift. I would spend a carfax for a car that has a good history of owner keeping up with maintains recommended by "user manual".
1st ATF drain and fill should be done around 60k miles and every 30k miles after that, NOTED that Honda ONLY recommended their own ATF. Being the 04-06 model if the owner has transmission service make sure they had it service either from a Honda/Acura dealer or specialist shop using the correct ATF.
The older fluid called Z1 which terrible compare to the new revised DW-1, many people here on AZ will recommend you do a 3x3 (drain and fill 3 times). However my TL-S transmission actually got 6x3 along with new pressure switches and the shifting is better than most new TL. I replace the ATF every 15k miles instead of the recommended 30k.
The final verdict would be check and see if the owner taken care the transmission fluid like it should be and IF you have to buy the car just budget in the factor spending extra $$$ when the AT decide to quit. I am not saying they are 100% crap, there are many owner here has the car since new and still have the original AT with 200k miles or more.
Thank you so much for the advice! I'm going to take the VIN's and have my used car dept run CarFax report on them, hopefully I can find a decent used one out there. I've always loved the 3rd Gen TL.
thanks. It’ll definitely be a 3G! If it’s an early model, I’m shooting for low mileage 100k like 100-125k then I’ll service the trans 3 times in a row to try and prevent transmission issues
A lot of Awesome advice already here but I would also include to look and see if the cars have had their "105k service", It's the timing belt and water pump replacement and it can be fairly expensive if a shop does it. Other than that the 3g is pretty darn solid and I love my car!
A lot of Awesome advice already here but I would also include to look and see if the cars have had their "105k service", It's the timing belt and water pump replacement and it can be fairly expensive if a shop does it. Other than that the 3g is pretty darn solid and I love my car!
Nah sorry but you excluded from the group since you drive a TL with 2 brake pedals , how is that TL-S and Fox body come along?
I have had my 2005 TL 6 spd manual for 3 or so years. I, like you fell in love with this body style. Shes my baby. 137k miles at purchase 165k now. I have replaced front control arms and engine mount solved my torque pull. There are aftermarket warranties that will help cover problems. The biggest problem I had is putting in a new clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder $2500. Also, power steering pump. I change my oil every 3k miles with full synthetic. I had my mechanic also pressure flush the fuel system, made it run like new...even boosted horse power (routine maintnence every 30 k miles, best $150 spent so far. Last, just put in double din DVD stereo, BT, rear camera...awesome! Your factory BT will fail. Your dashboard will crack (no recall- Biggest gripe, it affects your air bags). Acura will not take care of this as a recall or even offer support, its the worst part. Maybe should be class action suit as it involves safety.
Major issues happen most in the 04-06 model and that involve the AT being weak, I am not saying to blow out left and right like 98-05 Honda V6 AT but the fail rate is somewhat higher than normal.
I would recommend you spend extra $$ for the 07-08 model as they got a different transmission which more reliable and MMC offer a few feature that the earlier variant lacks such as AUX port, better cluster LED, MID resolution is better than 04-06, turn signal marker on the side mirror and the revised suspension for better daily drive car. You can also opt for the Type S auto.
here is a list that every TL will eventually has.
1. Dreaded crack dash, its always start around the passenger airbag and spread like wild fire. Don't think you just buy the car and expect Acura to do a "good will" dash replacement.
2. HFL module will goes bad and cause drain on your battery, you can unplug it or buy a new unit and call it a day (easy fix).
3. LCA bushing crack, well this is another easy fix you can buy 2 bushing for $60 and do the labor yourself.
4. IF you go for the 07-08 model then the infamous "tighten gas cap" cause by a bad solenoid which very easy to replace.
Other than that if you buy a higher mileage car nothing much to worry about, just expect some minor oil leaks.
As a former 3G owner, this is solid info. I learned the hard way about what to look out for, on the way home with the car the "Tighten Fuel Cap" message appered. LOL.
They're great cars, just need a little TLC here and there.
I have had my 2005 TL 6 spd manual for 3 or so years. I, like you fell in love with this body style. Shes my baby. 137k miles at purchase 165k now. I have replaced front control arms and engine mount solved my torque pull. There are aftermarket warranties that will help cover problems. The biggest problem I had is putting in a new clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder $2500. Also, power steering pump. I change my oil every 3k miles with full synthetic. I had my mechanic also pressure flush the fuel system, made it run like new...even boosted horse power (routine maintnence every 30 k miles, best $150 spent so far. Last, just put in double din DVD stereo, BT, rear camera...awesome! Your factory BT will fail. Your dashboard will crack (no recall- Biggest gripe, it affects your air bags). Acura will not take care of this as a recall or even offer support, its the worst part. Maybe should be class action suit as it involves safety.
A couple of comments:
Changing out synthetic oil on a J-Series engine every three-thousand miles is a massive waste of time and money; even changing it every ten-thousand miles means the oil still have some life left in it.
Pressure flushing the fuel system will not in any way boost horsepower.
Changing out synthetic oil on a J-Series engine every three-thousand miles is a massive waste of time and money; even changing it every ten-thousand miles means the oil still have some life left in it.
Pressure flushing the fuel system will not in any way boost horsepower.
horseshoez what oil and interval change do you recommend.? I guess I come from old school mentality, and the last car I had was a Dodge which was famous for sludge...so always anxious. How long have you had your 6spd Acura? What other recommendations do you have in maintaining it? How many miles on it? I love mine and want to keep it forever** thanks
horseshoez what oil and interval change do you recommend.? I guess I come from old school mentality, and the last car I had was a Dodge which was famous for sludge...so always anxious. How long have you had your 6spd Acura? What other recommendations do you have in maintaining it? How many miles on it? I love mine and want to keep it forever** thanks
Regarding your Dodge, I take it you had a 2.7 liter V6; yeah, quite the sludge monster.
I've owned my car since May of 2017 and have put nearly 40,000 miles on it already; the odometer is sitting at about 151,000 miles. Regarding maintenance, I typically do the following:
Castrol Edge 0W-20 and filter every 10,000 miles
ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified every 30,000 miles.
Tires and brakes as necessary (I prefer Centric blanks with the painted hubs and fin area; don't like the rust on standard blanks).
Last year I dumped a bunch into preventative maintenance; I did the flywheel, clutch, rear main seal, all six engine and transmission mounts (all OEM), stabilizer bar bushings and end links, axles.
This year, I plan on redoing the axles (I used Duralast units and am not happy with them; I'll go OEM this time around) and having the brake fluid flushed; probably not much beyond that.
When timing belt time comes around again (two to three years at my current annual mileage rate), I'm going to have the belt, pump, tensioner and idler, cam seals, front crank seal, and water pump seals all done.
Regarding your Dodge, I take it you had a 2.7 liter V6; yeah, quite the sludge monster.
I've owned my car since May of 2017 and have put nearly 40,000 miles on it already; the odometer is sitting at about 151,000 miles. Regarding maintenance, I typically do the following:
Castrol Edge 0W-20 and filter every 10,000 miles
ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified every 30,000 miles.
Tires and brakes as necessary (I prefer Centric blanks with the painted hubs and fin area; don't like the rust on standard blanks).
Last year I dumped a bunch into preventative maintenance; I did the flywheel, clutch, rear main seal, all six engine and transmission mounts (all OEM), stabilizer bar bushings and end links, axles.
This year, I plan on redoing the axles (I used Duralast units and am not happy with them; I'll go OEM this time around) and having the brake fluid flushed; probably not much beyond that.
When timing belt time comes around again (two to three years at my current annual mileage rate), I'm going to have the belt, pump, tensioner and idler, cam seals, front crank seal, and water pump seals all done.
Yes I had two of the dreaded 2.7 engines. Not a dodge fan. What is the safe range for the castrol edge...10k seams like along time. When I change mine it usually ends up being closer to 4k or 4.5k, but it is dirty when I do, using Valvoline or Mobile 1 full synth. usually for autozone oil change deals. I hate the rust on the duralast rotors too. Do the Centric blanks not rust at all? What is next interval for timing belt/ water pump? I think I need to get mine done soon at 165k miles. thanks James
Yes I had two of the dreaded 2.7 engines. Not a dodge fan. What is the safe range for the castrol edge...10k seams like along time. When I change mine it usually ends up being closer to 4k or 4.5k, but it is dirty when I do, using Valvoline or Mobile 1 full synth. usually for autozone oil change deals. I hate the rust on the duralast rotors too. Do the Centric blanks not rust at all? What is next interval for timing belt/ water pump? I think I need to get mine done soon at 165k miles. thanks James
I haven't had a UOA done yet on my TL, but after 10,000 miles on my former J30 Accord the UOAs showed plenty of life left in the oil to go upwards of 12,000 miles. Using synthetic oil and changing in less than 5,000 miles is a waste of time, money, and resources. Yeah, the Centric blanks which are painted do not rust except the usual over-night surface rust one might see on the swept area, one quick stop and that rust is gone.
Well I purchased a nice one owner Abyss Blue Pearl TL on Jan 1st. I've been wanting to clean it up and post it on here but the weather has not be cooperating with me, either freezing cold, snowing or raining... ugh! But I said screw it I'll update this post and show some dirty pics lol. The info on the car, Its an 05 base with 157,500 automatic with Nav; The owner had a binder full of maintenance receipts, timing belt done at 100k, lower compliance bushings done, anything recommend was either done at the dealer or at a local independent shop. The transmission was replaced July of 2018 and had about 3,000 miles on it when I bought it, also comes with a warranty The car was in a low speed parking lot collision, which the lady then had the whole car resprayed, though that was a few years ago there are some chips and lite scratches. All in all the car is in great shape and I'm super stoked to have it! It's bone stock for now, but that will change here in the upcoming months lol.
I do have a few questions though, she didn't have the original acura keys so I have a generic key and what looks like a generic honda key fob. The key fob works to unlock,lock and pop the trunk but I can't access the keyless entry settings, is that bc its a generic fob? Two she had installed a bluetooth module that runs through the XM for music and phone calls, its a BT45-ACU module and it's stopping all XM from coming through, any ideas why?
Congrats! Car looks like it'd clean up real nice. How much did you pay for it, if you don't mind me asking? I believe the car fob needs to be programmed to get into keyless entry settings. Does it say "Driver 1" or "Driver 2" detected when you get into the car? As for the infotainment system, I'd just look into getting an aftermarket double din installed being that the technology is 14 years old. Just my 2 cents.
Congrats! Car looks like it'd clean up real nice. How much did you pay for it, if you don't mind me asking? I believe the car fob needs to be programmed to get into keyless entry settings. Does it say "Driver 1" or "Driver 2" detected when you get into the car? As for the infotainment system, I'd just look into getting an aftermarket double din installed being that the technology is 14 years old. Just my 2 cents.
Thank you! I hope it cleans up well also lol. I ended up paying $4550 for it. The car does not say driver 1 or 2, the key fob doesn't even say driver 1 or 2 its just a grey generic looking fob, looks more like a honda element key fob. I was looking at an aftermarket radio but with my car having Nav I don't know how well that would work, I did look into the convert from Nav to non-Nav but I'm a stickler for close to stock appearance and possibly losing the stock clock has me second guessing it.
I do have a few questions though, she didn't have the original acura keys so I have a generic key and what looks like a generic honda key fob. The key fob works to unlock,lock and pop the trunk but I can't access the keyless entry settings, is that bc its a generic fob? Two she had installed a bluetooth module that runs through the XM for music and phone calls, its a BT45-ACU module and it's stopping all XM from coming through, any ideas why?
Congratulations on the new ride!
I believe your issues with the fob are in fact due to the lack of Acura fobs. The fob from my old Accord was programmable to work with my 2006 TL, but it was not recognized as "Driver 1" or "Driver 2". FWIW, I have both of my Acura fobs; my main fob appears to be unlabeled, if I recall correctly, my second fob is labeled "Driver 2".
Regarding Bluetooth, XM, and the BT45-ACU, I believe that is the incorrect USA-Spec unit for your car; my understanding the "ACU" is for the 2007-2008 TL with NAV, for all versions of the 2004-2006 models, you should have a BT45-HON3.
Fuckin awesome, man...
one day I'll scoop one of these fuckers up too...
I love the task of going through and fixing and cleaning it up.
Congrats and thanks for sharing
The actual OEM fob has label driver 1 and driver 2. However the letter can be rub off after years of uses, as far as BT module, Honda no longer made HFL replacement (I found this out for myself as well).
The only difference between ACU and HON3 is live traffic for the 07-08 TL navi compatible and one less harness. If you want to listen to XM switch your XM preset to XM2, normal XM radio should come on.
I believe your issues with the fob are in fact due to the lack of Acura fobs. The fob from my old Accord was programmable to work with my 2006 TL, but it was not recognized as "Driver 1" or "Driver 2". FWIW, I have both of my Acura fobs; my main fob appears to be unlabeled, if I recall correctly, my second fob is labeled "Driver 2".
Regarding Bluetooth, XM, and the BT45-ACU, I believe that is the incorrect USA-Spec unit for your car; my understanding the "ACU" is for the 2007-2008 TL with NAV, for all versions of the 2004-2006 models, you should have a BT45-HON3.
Thanks for the info. I'll be purchasing a new fob from Acura then, bc I really want to set up unlock and lock doors when shifting from park. Looks like I'll be removing that bluetooth unit and purchasing the HON3 then.
One other question, I seen where EndlessRPM is selling switch blade keys for the 04-06 TL, would that key get recognized as a driver 1 or 2?
The actual OEM fob has label driver 1 and driver 2. However the letter can be rub off after years of uses, as far as BT module, Honda no longer made HFL replacement (I found this out for myself as well).
The only difference between ACU and HON3 is live traffic for the 07-08 TL navi compatible and one less harness. If you want to listen to XM switch your XM preset to XM2, normal XM radio should come on.
Thank you. And I did try switch to XM 2 but nothing comes through. I was going to pull the module just to make sure XM is working, though when I look at the info screen on the dash it says what XM channel I'm on
Thank you. And I did try switch to XM 2 but nothing comes through. I was going to pull the module just to make sure XM is working, though when I look at the info screen on the dash it says what XM channel I'm on
There are 4 small toggle switch on the BTA module and it need to be config properly, let me know if you want to get rid the ACU unit lol.
12-26-2018, 11:26 AM
I finally purchased a 3rd Gen TL!!! - Pics Inside!
, how is that TL-S and Fox body come along?
The car was in a low speed parking lot collision, which the lady then had the whole car resprayed, though that was a few years ago there are some chips and lite scratches. All in all the car is in great shape and I'm super stoked to have it! It's bone stock for now, but that will change here in the upcoming months lol.
