Let's talk ATF....Again
#1
Let's talk ATF....Again
Alright so I know theres a million ATF/oil debates and threads here I've read them trust me.
Here's my statement for everyday driving there is no reason for me to use redline ATF nor is there a reason for me to use dw-1 because its almost $10/quart.
Here's my question -- Has anyone used Valvoline Maxlife ATF it is on sale at autozone here $14/4 quarts it says it can replace z1 which my TL currently has but has anyone used it? I know redline is the best but I'm not about to pay $100+ for ATF when I can get something good enough for me for $35 right now.
I plan on doing the 3x3 which I've done before on my buddy's car with redline but he also tracks his TL.
I've seen threads about it being used by our 2g friends but nothing more than it being mentioned in the 3g area.
Thoughts/opinions?
Here's my statement for everyday driving there is no reason for me to use redline ATF nor is there a reason for me to use dw-1 because its almost $10/quart.
Here's my question -- Has anyone used Valvoline Maxlife ATF it is on sale at autozone here $14/4 quarts it says it can replace z1 which my TL currently has but has anyone used it? I know redline is the best but I'm not about to pay $100+ for ATF when I can get something good enough for me for $35 right now.
I plan on doing the 3x3 which I've done before on my buddy's car with redline but he also tracks his TL.
I've seen threads about it being used by our 2g friends but nothing more than it being mentioned in the 3g area.
Thoughts/opinions?
#2
Suzuka Master
So? your going to utilize a cheap ATF fluid in a glass transmission that is prone to failure and very sensitive to fluids in order to save money? HAHA
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paperboy42190 (09-28-2012)
#4
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
i wouldn't let an ATF fluid that costs $14 for 4 quarts even sit in a bag in my backseat, let alone my transmission case.
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TrustinHFDJ (09-29-2012)
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TrustinHFDJ (09-29-2012)
#6
Team Owner
iTrader: (4)
You drive a $20K car and you are concerned with spending a couple extra bucks for something you do once a year.
Spend the extra bucks on the DW1 or Redline.
BTW I get DW1 at my Acura dealer for a little more than $6 a qt.
Spend the extra bucks on the DW1 or Redline.
BTW I get DW1 at my Acura dealer for a little more than $6 a qt.
The following 5 users liked this post by justnspace:
04WDPSeDaN (09-28-2012),
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#8
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
He's a young driver with a vehicle which is expensive to repair or maintain. Drain out your fluid put in 3 Quarts of the OEM crap and call it a day. Do this again at your next oil change, then once more. Welcome to the world of maintenance, this is something that most younger drivers fail to understand. $100.00 bucks in fluid and your doing the labor is a blessing. Have the dealer charge 100.00 for a drain and fill with 3 quarts only, while being told you need XYZ.
#9
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
redline atf and dw-1 atf are perfectly fine for daily driving, who said they are for track use only? dw-1 is oem fluid, since when is OEM fluid for the track? Sounds like you haven't read up on those ATF threads as much as you thought you have. DW-1 atf does not cost $10+ a quart...it's about $8 per quart. So that equates to $24 everytime you do a drain and fill, which is like once every couple months. If you can't afford $24 every couple months, you need to sell your 2007 acura TL and start taking the bus
#10
Chapter Leader (San Antonio)
iTrader: (3)
Alright so I know theres a million ATF/oil debates and threads here I've read them trust me.
Here's my statement for everyday driving there is no reason for me to use redline ATF nor is there a reason for me to use dw-1 because its almost $10/quart.
Here's my question -- Has anyone used Valvoline Maxlife ATF it is on sale at autozone here $14/4 quarts it says it can replace z1 which my TL currently has but has anyone used it? I know redline is the best but I'm not about to pay $100+ for ATF when I can get something good enough for me for $35 right now.
I plan on doing the 3x3 which I've done before on my buddy's car with redline but he also tracks his TL.
I've seen threads about it being used by our 2g friends but nothing more than it being mentioned in the 3g area.
Thoughts/opinions?
Here's my statement for everyday driving there is no reason for me to use redline ATF nor is there a reason for me to use dw-1 because its almost $10/quart.
Here's my question -- Has anyone used Valvoline Maxlife ATF it is on sale at autozone here $14/4 quarts it says it can replace z1 which my TL currently has but has anyone used it? I know redline is the best but I'm not about to pay $100+ for ATF when I can get something good enough for me for $35 right now.
I plan on doing the 3x3 which I've done before on my buddy's car with redline but he also tracks his TL.
I've seen threads about it being used by our 2g friends but nothing more than it being mentioned in the 3g area.
Thoughts/opinions?
Thousands or one hundred. Your choice.
#11
You guys aren't seeing my point -- We all know redline is the best there is and it can take the beatings of a track and no shit it can work on a DD.
My point is that if I could spend $35 on something and get the same results as spending $100 what would I pick?
If the one I posted is just as good/better than z1/dw1 then why not use it and save $65 towards a tank of gas I understand our transmissions are touchy and sensitive but I will say it again if something will meet/exceed the standards of z1/dw1 why not use it for a DD?
And lets be honest my transmission could go tomorrow running dw1 or it could last for 250k running dw1/valvoline.
We don't know.
My point is that if I could spend $35 on something and get the same results as spending $100 what would I pick?
If the one I posted is just as good/better than z1/dw1 then why not use it and save $65 towards a tank of gas I understand our transmissions are touchy and sensitive but I will say it again if something will meet/exceed the standards of z1/dw1 why not use it for a DD?
And lets be honest my transmission could go tomorrow running dw1 or it could last for 250k running dw1/valvoline.
We don't know.
#15
Safety Car
iTrader: (7)
You guys aren't seeing my point -- We all know redline is the best there is and it can take the beatings of a track and no shit it can work on a DD.
My point is that if I could spend $35 on something and get the same results as spending $100 what would I pick?
If the one I posted is just as good/better than z1/dw1 then why not use it and save $65 towards a tank of gas I understand our transmissions are touchy and sensitive but I will say it again if something will meet/exceed the standards of z1/dw1 why not use it for a DD?
And lets be honest my transmission could go tomorrow running dw1 or it could last for 250k running dw1/valvoline.
We don't know.
My point is that if I could spend $35 on something and get the same results as spending $100 what would I pick?
If the one I posted is just as good/better than z1/dw1 then why not use it and save $65 towards a tank of gas I understand our transmissions are touchy and sensitive but I will say it again if something will meet/exceed the standards of z1/dw1 why not use it for a DD?
And lets be honest my transmission could go tomorrow running dw1 or it could last for 250k running dw1/valvoline.
We don't know.
At this point, it's really up to you if you want to do it or not.
Yes what? Course or drag?
Last edited by vietxquangstah; 09-28-2012 at 05:31 PM.
#17
Man, Valvoline ATF may be compatible with Redline ATF, but is it as efficient to sustain the life of your transmission? As someone else already mentioned in this thread, it's illogical to put cheap ATF in a car whose transmission is susceptible to failure. Buy the Redline and be done with it; your car will thank you for it.
#18
Worth my weight in SSM
I understand what the OP is saying.... But I much greater understand what my fellow Aziners are saying. Why would you even take a chance and use a cheap not cheaper but cheap tranny fluid in a already fragile tranny? It just doesnt make sense.
#19
the overexplainer
Sometimes it's not a bad thing to have "overkill" even for just a DD. It gives you a greater margin of safety. Go with the more expensive fluid and call it a day.
#20
I understand what you all are saying I didn't change with Valvoline I simply said it is on sale and asked if it would be a decent replacement for $35 vs $100.
Obvisouly the $100 is of better quality if I was for buying cheap crap I wouldn't have bought the car I did I'm simply looking at it from a different view which nobody else is able to apparently.
Obvisouly the $100 is of better quality if I was for buying cheap crap I wouldn't have bought the car I did I'm simply looking at it from a different view which nobody else is able to apparently.
#23
Team Owner
I understand what you all are saying I didn't change with Valvoline I simply said it is on sale and asked if it would be a decent replacement for $35 vs $100.
Obvisouly the $100 is of better quality if I was for buying cheap crap I wouldn't have bought the car I did I'm simply looking at it from a different view which nobody else is able to apparently.
Obvisouly the $100 is of better quality if I was for buying cheap crap I wouldn't have bought the car I did I'm simply looking at it from a different view which nobody else is able to apparently.
The less FM, the less wear you have on the clutch packs every time it shifts. The better the base oil, the longer you can go between changes, the better it will protect hard parts, and the better it will hold up to extreme heat and stress. During a shift, the little bit of fluid in the clutch packs can see temps of 400 degrees. The sump temp may only be 200 degress but the fluid trapped in the clutches takes a beating. A synthetic base oil will reduce oxidizing and breakdown. Most of the transmission failures are due to clutch wear so I place more value on the FM level (and type).
The problem is your first post is a huge assumption. The good fluids with less FM (DexIII and Type F) are not used for racing even though the labeling would lead you to believe otherwise. They reduce transmission wear whether you drive like a granny or whether you race. It's just as important for clutch pack wear to use these fluids if you drive easy. I've been over it so many times so I'm not going to this time but trust me when I say just as much wear occurs on the clutches during normal easy driving as it does at full throttle.... or very close to the same. That's why these fluids are just as important for a grandma.
To address your particular fluids, I believe the Valvoline you mentioned is a DexIII equivalent. It will be much better than stock fluid in preventing wear. The FM level is important in preventing clutch pack wear. There's not a huge difference between a high end fluid and a cheap fluid in clutch pack wear alone.
What you get with the more expensive synthetic fluids (that valvoline is not a synthetic no matter what the packaging might say) is the ability to go longer before changing it and it holds up much better under stress and heat. The additive package will also last longer and according to others that have gone from Mobil One to Redline D4, both DexIII fluids, the D4 had quicker shifts so it's likely it has a better add pack compared to your generic DexIII fluid. If you plan to change more often, the Valvoline might not be that bad, assuming it's a DexIII that you're looking at.
DW-1 has to use a decent base oil to meet lubrication requirements with it's lighter base oil and there's reason to believe it might have less FM than Z1.
#25
There are two main qualities to look for in a transmission fluid. One is the add pack, with the most important being the FM level. The other is the base oil.
The less FM, the less wear you have on the clutch packs every time it shifts. The better the base oil, the longer you can go between changes, the better it will protect hard parts, and the better it will hold up to extreme heat and stress. During a shift, the little bit of fluid in the clutch packs can see temps of 400 degrees. The sump temp may only be 200 degress but the fluid trapped in the clutches takes a beating. A synthetic base oil will reduce oxidizing and breakdown. Most of the transmission failures are due to clutch wear so I place more value on the FM level (and type).
The problem is your first post is a huge assumption. The good fluids with less FM (DexIII and Type F) are not used for racing even though the labeling would lead you to believe otherwise. They reduce transmission wear whether you drive like a granny or whether you race. It's just as important for clutch pack wear to use these fluids if you drive easy. I've been over it so many times so I'm not going to this time but trust me when I say just as much wear occurs on the clutches during normal easy driving as it does at full throttle.... or very close to the same. That's why these fluids are just as important for a grandma.
To address your particular fluids, I believe the Valvoline you mentioned is a DexIII equivalent. It will be much better than stock fluid in preventing wear. The FM level is important in preventing clutch pack wear. There's not a huge difference between a high end fluid and a cheap fluid in clutch pack wear alone.
What you get with the more expensive synthetic fluids (that valvoline is not a synthetic no matter what the packaging might say) is the ability to go longer before changing it and it holds up much better under stress and heat. The additive package will also last longer and according to others that have gone from Mobil One to Redline D4, both DexIII fluids, the D4 had quicker shifts so it's likely it has a better add pack compared to your generic DexIII fluid. If you plan to change more often, the Valvoline might not be that bad, assuming it's a DexIII that you're looking at.
DW-1 has to use a decent base oil to meet lubrication requirements with it's lighter base oil and there's reason to believe it might have less FM than Z1.
The less FM, the less wear you have on the clutch packs every time it shifts. The better the base oil, the longer you can go between changes, the better it will protect hard parts, and the better it will hold up to extreme heat and stress. During a shift, the little bit of fluid in the clutch packs can see temps of 400 degrees. The sump temp may only be 200 degress but the fluid trapped in the clutches takes a beating. A synthetic base oil will reduce oxidizing and breakdown. Most of the transmission failures are due to clutch wear so I place more value on the FM level (and type).
The problem is your first post is a huge assumption. The good fluids with less FM (DexIII and Type F) are not used for racing even though the labeling would lead you to believe otherwise. They reduce transmission wear whether you drive like a granny or whether you race. It's just as important for clutch pack wear to use these fluids if you drive easy. I've been over it so many times so I'm not going to this time but trust me when I say just as much wear occurs on the clutches during normal easy driving as it does at full throttle.... or very close to the same. That's why these fluids are just as important for a grandma.
To address your particular fluids, I believe the Valvoline you mentioned is a DexIII equivalent. It will be much better than stock fluid in preventing wear. The FM level is important in preventing clutch pack wear. There's not a huge difference between a high end fluid and a cheap fluid in clutch pack wear alone.
What you get with the more expensive synthetic fluids (that valvoline is not a synthetic no matter what the packaging might say) is the ability to go longer before changing it and it holds up much better under stress and heat. The additive package will also last longer and according to others that have gone from Mobil One to Redline D4, both DexIII fluids, the D4 had quicker shifts so it's likely it has a better add pack compared to your generic DexIII fluid. If you plan to change more often, the Valvoline might not be that bad, assuming it's a DexIII that you're looking at.
DW-1 has to use a decent base oil to meet lubrication requirements with it's lighter base oil and there's reason to believe it might have less FM than Z1.
Point proven so do you agree spending $35 on a 3x3 change using valvoline will be sufficient in keeping the tranny alive in a 3g TL?
Again no where did I say I am doing this I am asking and trying to possibly prove a point.
Anyone contest this?
#26
Team Owner
You get some of the benefits of Redline at a lower initial cost but you will need to change it more often.
Whether or not that last bit of wear protection is worth it is up to you. I was able to put the TL on a good synthetic fluid (Amsoil ATD) from the time it had 20,000 miles on it. I wish I had changed it the day I brought it home from the dealer. To me it's worth it because I was able to get the good stuff in when it was almost new to slow the wear down from the beginning. Even if the difference in wear between a great fluid and an average fluid is minimal, combine that over tens of thousands of shifts and it adds up. I would let your own personal goals and economics help make the choice.
Just an FYI, if you have an '04, a great synthetic should be mandatory. Maybe that will help some '04 owners that are on the fence. I'm about to fall asleep, be back in a few days.
#27
Suzuka Master
until your clutch is gone at 40k miles and it cost around $2100 to replace .
I don't have much luck with trany choice since my first car wast MT and the clutch gave out spending $1200 to fix back in 05, second car was 99 Accord V6 with Autotragic issue gladly the car was sold before I spending any money on it. I was looking to go back to MT but found out that 3rd gear issue (not a big deal) but clutch usually gone around 60k miles and Acura dealer want $2200 for a replacement so I guess I placing my bet on revise RL AT and will see how it gona work out for me.
I don't have much luck with trany choice since my first car wast MT and the clutch gave out spending $1200 to fix back in 05, second car was 99 Accord V6 with Autotragic issue gladly the car was sold before I spending any money on it. I was looking to go back to MT but found out that 3rd gear issue (not a big deal) but clutch usually gone around 60k miles and Acura dealer want $2200 for a replacement so I guess I placing my bet on revise RL AT and will see how it gona work out for me.
#28
Series Motor's
I dont know what the deal is with people trying to be cheap while owning a luxury car, long story short
#30
Level: Noob
iTrader: (1)
Okay I kind of retract my statement. I blew the 150 bucks for 12 quarts of Type-F Redline, and I'm glad I did. I feel more at ease that I don't have to worry as much about the tranny. Even if the valvoline is okay, it's still worth the redline just for the peace of mind.
#31
Senior Moderator
there is absolutely nothing wrong with Valvoline Maxlife ATF. I use it in my winter beater and it will also be going into the RDX eventually (just finished off a case of DW-1).
Another good fluid for Honda/Acura's is the Castrol Transmax Import Multi–Vehicle
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...tentId=7028224
Another good fluid for Honda/Acura's is the Castrol Transmax Import Multi–Vehicle
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...tentId=7028224
#33
Safety Car
iTrader: (7)
For 07-08 models the filter isn't easily accessible like it is in the 04-06 models. I have a 08 and bought a filter thinking I could replace it, I was wrong. Ended up just doing a 3x3 and not touching the filter. I believe it's harder to reach because it's located inside the transmission (don't quote me on that)
#36
For 07-08 models the filter isn't easily accessible like it is in the 04-06 models. I have a 08 and bought a filter thinking I could replace it, I was wrong. Ended up just doing a 3x3 and not touching the filter. I believe it's harder to reach because it's located inside the transmission (don't quote me on that)
Can someone verify this?
#37
Safety Car
#38
Team Owner
#39
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
in the time spent on this thread, you could have worked a couple extra hours and made up the money difference and just bought the Redline fluid.
and yes, you are trying to be cheap, don't tell people they are misunderstanding your thread because all you're doing is trying to justify spending less money. There is nothing wrong with that and I don't hold it against you because nobody wants to waste money, but don't try to tell people they're wrong when they are saying you're looking for a justification to be cheap.
That being said, it's a decent fluid. The issue here is how fast the fluid breaks down and how well it handles oxydizing environments. So if you get a cheaper fluid, I would still recommend changing it a bit more frequently than you would the Redline.
you'll be fine.
and yes, you are trying to be cheap, don't tell people they are misunderstanding your thread because all you're doing is trying to justify spending less money. There is nothing wrong with that and I don't hold it against you because nobody wants to waste money, but don't try to tell people they're wrong when they are saying you're looking for a justification to be cheap.
That being said, it's a decent fluid. The issue here is how fast the fluid breaks down and how well it handles oxydizing environments. So if you get a cheaper fluid, I would still recommend changing it a bit more frequently than you would the Redline.
you'll be fine.
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TrustinHFDJ (11-03-2012)
#40
DW-1 is 7.75 incl tax at my dealership.... js :P