F_ck.

Seriously. what the f_ck.

I'll sell this car before I take these god damn calipers off again. Glad I found a machine shop willing to re-thread them cause I almost just lost my shit today.

 

FUCK. Im so not looking forward to doing mine....SHIT!

 

hashtag bremboproblems

sorry to hear, most people go through the same thing

 

U can buy the calipers for 20- 25 bucks if u need to replace it

 

Remember to turn the wheels and buy the longest breaker bar you can find.

Also take advil before you start.

 

sorry to see all the problems. i just did all 4 rotors and brake pads on my type s and had no issues at all getting these calipers off. i just used a harbor freight 3/8" breaker bar

 

Anybody know when the dealer turns the rotors do they do it on car or on a separate machine?

 

they usually have machines that attach to the lug bolts on the car. Taking the rotor off is usually extra time and labor no one wants to pay for.

 

They must have been crossthreaded a while ago then.

 

whoever put them on must cross threaded, last time when I check mine its good but will see if I fing it up.

 

I wouldn't blame them on a worker cross-threading them.
The reason why they get messed up I remember reading is because the material of the bolt and the material of the caliper.
I've also read they were cross-threaded from factory?

This isn't only a problem with 3G TL Brembos...

Otherwise everyone and their grandma are cross-threading their brembos

You can search how common it is - just google "stripped brembo tl" in google

Not saying they weren't cross-threaded by a previous guy, but just letting you know most people with Brembos go through the same thing.
Helicoil is your friend.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea....html?t=106626

https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...thread-724300/

 

I believe it has a lot to do with steel/aluminum (dissimilar metal) corrosion. I had the same issue with one of the bolts for the side engine mount bracket that attaches to the engine block during my recent timing belt change:

Steel bolt / Aluminum block corrosion

To the OP, are you sure you can't just clean up the threads with a tap and die set?

 

The threads in the aluminum were gone, basically what was chewed up was either melted between the threads of the bolts or sprinkled out of the whole as crumbs most likely so I agree with everyone here.

I've read all those threads so I'm versed in the subject is was just crossing (pun intended) my fingers that I'd get away without a problem but I wasn't so lucky.

The machine shop charged me $100 to fix the 2 completely destroyed threads and to tap a third on that I felt was "sticking". At that price I couldn't justify trying to fix them myself.

 

Should this be remedied with a bolt material change when change is performed? Would the pain be less in removal with lower miles and in salt free states or does that not matter?

 

was pb blaster used when removing the bolts? i may have to do this soon..

 

I've taken off my calipers quite a few times and luckily this hasnt happened to me...anyone have advice on best way to avoid this? would anti-seize on the bolts prevent it?

 

Damn.. Thank god mine came off very easily... But mine had under 30k when I did the rotors

Luckily you're able to salvage them

 

ah. that's better.

hassle free work completed by: Creative Machining Systems, Inc. in Hamilton, NJ

 

Yes, not sure if it matter at that point though.

 

I used A/S when I put them back and and torqued it to spec @ 125 ft lbs.

 

Aweseome. Hope I don't need them but if I do I'll keep it in mind. I cant think of a machine shop in my area

 

Then you waayyyy over-torqued them....

Using A/S totally changes (reduces the torque spec). The SM specs are there for a reason (e.g. 125 ft-lbs, no anti-seize).

 

what did the machining cost per caliper/bolt?

 

Well, the tires are still off cause I haven't bled the brakes yet so I can re-torque them tomorrow. With A/S what's the car forum guesstimation on the new spec?

 

$50 per.

 

I had the same problem, used impact gun and a 2 foot breaker bar with no luck. Didn't want to strip the bolts so just took it to Pep Boys and had them remove and replace the rotors. They didn't have a problem with the bolts. It was worth the $75.

 

Generally, 40% less. But I'm not sure if that is a good idea for our caliper bolts....

 

did they weld the hole and re-threaded?

 

I had no problems with mine when I changed out my rotors.... but, when I later I had to take off the front calipers in order to roll the fenders... Nothing but problems

 

Jesus. Anything else? I go to bleed the brakes, get to the pass side @ the inside bleeder screw. Nothing. No fluid flow. Turns out it was clogged.

Frankly, the overall blackness of the old fluid and now, the amount of crud in this bleed screw, I don't see how Hamilton Honda actually did the brake fluid flush I paid for less than 6 months ago (I believe). How fast can these screws get clogged with corrosion/dirt? I'll just assume that they didn't actually bleed it properly or at all.

 

I know cars that haven't had brake fluid changed in over 4 years and even then it wasn't clogged.

6 months ago? ouch.

 

They sucked your reservoir dry, and refilled. That's it.

 

I believe it was around a hundred dollars. I assumed they cycled the system through the calipers. I'm going to have a convo with the service manager my next visit.

 

when I had my "flush" done the fluid came from bleeder screw is clear. Yes it was done at the dealer too.