Okay so I have read the past threads with white LED modification in the front sidemarkers but I have never been happy with them, the LEDs either die out, or it requires adding a whole new strip in place. I have a background in electrical and pretty mechanically inclined so I was sure I can invent a better way myself. I will also explain why people's white LEDs always failed in the past and how I plan to improve on that. I have custom made my dome LEDs with pirahna superflux white LEDs so I have plenty left over to use in my sidemarkers. Here is my thread of the dome LEDs: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/made-some-custom-leds-849785/

Anyways, so I began the project and took out the circuit board inside, I began to analyze why people's LEDs always failed in the past. It turns out there are three 389 Ohm resistors in parallel for the LEDs, and after doing some calculation, it will give the circuit 55.4 mA to each LED. The optimal value for an LED is 20mA, so 55.4 is way too higher thus leading to flickering and burnt out LEDs. I decided 1 resistor was enough so I removed the three stock resistors and I went with a single 330 Ohm resistor to take the place. With this value, I guarantee the LEDs will NOT burn out and retains most OEM parts. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves, and I've included a picture of my calculations for any engineers here to analyze.

Before:

Cut open, very easy, no trouble here:


Testing the resistance of the stock resistors:

Calculations:

Stock amber LEDs removed:


Soldered on new 330 Ohm resistor:

Soldered on new white LEDs:

All done!:

 

niceee but where did you get your LEDs from? Also are they 5k pure white or 6k with a hint of blue?

 

they are 5000k pirahna superflux 5mm white LEDs

 

Installed pics?

 

Nice physics HW! Haha jk. Very useful writeup. No more looking for depo led sidemarkers haha

 

I'll post installed pics later but it doesn't look any different than stock except that the led is white lol

 

Subscribed for installed pics would love to see how they look

 

Are you guys doubting the results? Lol this is a simple result, the LEDs are now white with a stock circuit board, perfect oem quality results.

 

Sure, yours may work, but i went with the OG thread that used Oznium LED's for the simple fact that the led module runs off 12v and it has more leds, so no hot spots showing when lit up.

I have had no problems in 4 years now with the oznium LED modules. Thanks for your contribution.

 

Great thread George....eagerly awaiting post install pix

 

 

I'm definitely in for the post install pics. This seems to be a very easy method, just soldering a couple things on and closing back up, not unlike the LED turn signal relay mod. Hardest part is likely just opening and closing the lights (or maybe pulling them from the car? Not sure, never removed mine...)

 

I wanna see pics too. Some members say it might have hot spots compared to oznium module which is believable. Pics will prove if its true or not. I do like this method since its far less expensive than buying LED module, but its a little more work since you have to desolder, solder, and figure out what size resistor is needed.

Using the LED module method is as easy as just taping it ontop of the LED board and from there the user can decide if he wants to do the solder method or just wire it like I did.

The con to the LED module is its not true pure white. It's more of a 6,000-6,500k white. I would probably do your method sometime in the future because I don't like the "white" the oznium bars produce, and you say yours are 5,000k pure white with no hint of blue or purple

 

my OEM side markers dim occasionally or dont turn on at all. If I have them on long enough eventually they'll come to full brightness.

What could be wrong? Would it be possible to repair/replace the LEDs inside?

IIRC a OEM replacement is around $45.

 

For sure the oznium LEDs work just fine, I just wanted to show people an alternative method that uses mostly stock parts, both ways work just fine though.


LOL!!!

It really helps to have a de-soldering tool to get the LEDs out because they are 4 prong, although I did it without the tool, just takes more time and patience. Removing the sidemarker literally takes me 30 seconds, take off 4 screws on the fender liner, reach in back and push out. I'm sure if you really tried you can simply pry it out from the outside but I didnt want to risk scratching the paint. The cutting part is also very simple, no tricks just very straight forward.


yes, I'm 100% sure it's possible, you can have my old amber LEDs if you want lol, but if you cut it open you might as well replace with white LEDs.

 

mine are 5000k pure white, but they do sell different color pirahna style LEDs so you can get any color you want.

Here are some pics:

 

Clean those Aspecs!


They look good. Can't really see any hotspots.

 

Very nice! I like people taking the initiative to hack their own equipment. The saying after all is, If you don't hack it, You don't own it.

Paperboy, just so you know for next time, don't hold the resistors you are measuring, you will throw off the resistance a bit. Either read the color bands or measure the resistance across the resistor while it's still in the PCB. The value won't be affected by the surrounding circuit if you place your leads right on the resistor instead of somewhere else on the board.

Great job!!

 

Uh oh-dueling LED sidemarkers with Vietx.

 

Yup, think this will be the route I take. Any tips on the de-soldering process? Never done that.

 

Easiest in my opinion would be to use copper braid. Hold it between the iron and the solder joint and it will literally suck the solder into the copper braid.

You could also use a solder sucker but they suck

 

Thanks LockDots. Looking forward to this mod, seems pretty easy!

Paperboy - happen to have links to where you got the LEDs and resistors from?

Edit: Looks like these are the LEDs, but I still don't know what wattage resistor should be used.
http://lighthouseleds.com/5mm-piranh...2-000-mcd.html

 

If you can figure out the current through the resistor just multiply it by the voltage accross it. That's your power dissipation value. Get a resistor that can handle at least twice that and you'll be safe.

 

Yea....I can follow step by step instructions pretty well...but what you just said is kinda foreign to me unfortunately...

 

no problem, I just blurt stuff out sometimes. If you use the OP's measurements and resistance values the current through the resistor is about 55mA with a voltage of about 8V. 55mA x 8V = 440mW so a resistor that can handle 880mW should suffice. This however, is not a standard value and the next closest 1W which is even safer. So, in short a 1W resistor should be fine.

 

Thanks! Just ordered the LEDs, resistors, and the copper braid all from that site, for less than $8 shipped, including extra of all the parts, just in case.

Now I just need the material/epoxy that gets used to put the sidemarker back together and I'll be set.

 

Nice job, OP. The next step is to compile a switchback sidemarker DIY.

 

i have zero experience in soldering and in watts/ohms and stuff. if you could direct me to where you got the leds and the ohms resistor things, i'll have my friend do it for me haha.

i just dont wanna buy the wrong thing and have something blow up

 

Here is what I bought, hopefully it is all correct:

LEDs: http://lighthouseleds.com/5mm-piranh...2-000-mcd.html
Resistors: http://lighthouseleds.com/1-watt-met...tolerance.html 330ohm variety
Copper Braid: http://lighthouseleds.com/desolder-braid-5-feet.html

 

Easy, just need a relay. I'm going to do this mod on my car soon soon. In the meantime I can put up a wiring diagram/schematic if you want to wire it up yourself and post pictures for everyone else.

edit: just realized you meant switchbacks, not just turn signals. so that stuff up there^^? forget it lol

 

I'm not a big fan of front white turn signals but I am a fan of DIY soldering projects, good write up!

 

Now I am contemplating re-doing my side markers with this method since it's closer to 5k white compared to the Oznium modules which are far from pure white... They look friggin purple during the day for goodness sakes!

Can you post some night time pics of the side markers

 

The current after installing the new 330 ohm resistor will not be 55mA anymore, it would be ~20mA. Using P=V^2/R, the resistor only needs to take about 0.16W of power. Your P=IV also works but it would be 0.02A x 7.6= 0.152W

Based on these equations, a 1/4 watt resistor(which is what I used), is definitely more than adequate. I think that is why the stock circuit had 3 resistors in parallel, because the stock circuit is designed for 55mA which based on your calculations, required almost 1/2 watt. The stock resistors are 1/4W so having 3 in parallel was adequate.

 

Haha the cold weather recently makes me not want to wash my car!

Thanks for the advice, I held it in my fingers for the picture, but yea you are right.

I got my LEDs from ebay, just get the warm white to get the same color as mine. a 1/4W resistor is enough for this job. The one you linked seems to be a "cool white" though so it might be closer to 6000k.

LEDs from ebay, resistors I got from my friend's shop but you can get them anywhere, just get one ~330 Ohms, 1/4W.

I'd post pics at night but you know how cameraphones are for nighttime pics, its a bunch of blurs/glares most of the time lol, and I have an iphone 4S so its not like a crappy camera on a phone

 

I cant believe i only got 1 thanks on my post...lol I thought this was a great DIY!

 

^patience, young Grasshopper.

In time when members decide to attemp this mod they will thank you for the great write-up.

 

makes sense. I was trying to skim through your calculations and used what I found. Good stuff bud.

 

So I don't really know what the differences really mean, but will the 1 watt resistors I ordered work? Or should they be 1/4 watt? I also might order those warm whites off eBay, don't want them to end up looking purple, and I only feel like doing this once.

 

need night shots.

 

you'll be fine. You can go up in Power Rating (wattage), not down.