When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hmmm... this discussion of ester oils to clean up the engine is interesting. If a [Honda] engine has been on regular dino oil for 150,000 miles with regular oil changes every 5000, would there be much need for a gentle clean up with an ester oil or a product like Auto Rx?
"Need" it? I doubt it. In my case, I thought I would have traded the car by now. Ran ye ol' Castrol GTX, Valvoline, Havoline (whatever had the case rebate) dino up to around 70,000 miles. However, now that I've made the decision to "run her into the ground", I'd like to stack the deck in my favor as much as possible. When I bought it in Nov 2003, my son was 2 yrs old. If I play my cards right, I can give my now-10-yr-old this car in 6 yrs....and presumably it'll be a much safer "beater car" for him than most other not-as-well-cared-for vehicles out there.
So based on that, as long as the stuff doesn't destroy seals etc etc (like the "shock treatment" stuff apparently can), I'm willing to give it a shot and see what happens. Of course if you check out Auto Rx's website, they'll show you pix of engines that were well cared for and still benefitted from the treatment.
"Ya pays your money and ya takes your chances." I'll report back on here if anything earth-shattering comes from it. Won't be doing the procedure right away though. Gotta use up my current oil, then get some some Super Tech dino for the 2500-mile treatment and 3000-mile rinse phases. (Website says basic dino works best with the Auto-Rx.)
Currently, the oil barely goes to a darker amber color at 4000 miles, much less black. I suppose you could argue that's the filter doing its job, which is fine by me. We'll see what happens...
Good afternoon! Recently I acquired the original engine oil and oil for the automatic transmission.
I want to show you the pictures, as it is not sure of its authenticity. I found the original photograph oil different from what I bought.
Tell me, how do I know if I bought the original product or fake?
Good afternoon! Recently I acquired the original engine oil and oil for the automatic transmission.
I want to show you the pictures, as it is not sure of its authenticity. I found the original photograph oil different from what I bought.
Tell me, how do I know if I bought the original product or fake?
Umm...
well for one, one of those is ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) and the other is MOTOR Oil...
That's why they're different... and DEFINITELY not interchangeable..
I know about ATF.
This photo i found in internet
See the color of sticker. Do you see the difference? I'm afraid that bought fake oil for engine and transmisson
May be Acura oil, but not for the TL, as 5-30 wasn't a recommended viscosity for the TL, and
the oil purchased is synthetic when the TL uses Dino.
Sorry, but i didn't find any topics about oil discussion.
And i have an accord, which needs in 5w30 oil.
And i bought an Acura's oil, and deside to ask about my question there.
I've always used NAPA's own brand of synthetic 5W-20 (Valvoline SynPower with NAPA's name on it) and a NAPA filter (WIX 51334 with NAPA's name on the label). Once I get down to 20% oil life left on the MID, I change it.
Pushing almost 250K miles now and still flies like new! No need to spend $9-$10 for a quart of Royal Burple nor $13-$14 for K&N or Mobil1 filter.
.
.
Out of curiosity, is anyone running 0w40 in their TL? I think I saw it in I Hate Cars signature.
...
Per Larry Widmer of Endyn (Honda race engine builder), he recommended I run 5w40 or 0w40 in my passenger cars (at least in the summer) to prolong their life. In anyones opinion is there any validity to this?
I've been running Redline 5w30 following change intervals according to the MID for a couple years now. Unfortunately the price and difficulty obtaining Redline is kicking my butt. My idea was to double up the number of oil changes (to every 6 months) and switch to Mobil1 0w40.
I'm a fan of any quality oil that is only $8.61 for 5 quarts
ST 5W20 is indeed quality oil, very much on par with M1 5w20 and/or Penziol Platinum Plus 5W20 and other quality oils. I won't hesitate to run it in my J32.
At the rate I drive (over 30K/year), I'm changing oil every 3 months. I just picked up 2 years of oil (8 jugs) for under $75
This was an online only deal and it looks like it's already expired. Here's the correct link, sorry about the bad link in my first post:
Out of curiosity, is anyone running 0w40 in their TL? I think I saw it in I Hate Cars signature.
The viscosity range for an oil selection is intended to maintain proper flowrate throughout the system at starting an operating temps. A swing such as this could be practical if dealing with a place such as NV or AZ to account for ambient extremes that require a viscosity high enough to maintain proper drag during shear cycles when it's hella hot.
I'd never consider running that in NJ. AZ or NV? It'd be worth assessing.
Out of curiosity, is anyone running 0w40 in their TL? ...
FWIW, I did, and I had noticeably higher metal wear (iron, 10K interval). Could've been an anomaly, dunno. Went back to 5w20/0w20. Metal wear back to normal:
i would recommend honda synthetic oil, but yes dont buy the OEM honda filter they arent good, get a K&N. actually all newer honda parts have gone down in quality especially the plastic molding pieces
Redline Oil was the best thing I ever used for my car but it costs so much that I just switched back Mobil 1 full synthetic, which was 50% of the cost of redline. But I still use only redline ATF for my transmission. Honda fluid is garbage even though acura only recommends using their fluids. They probably just say that so people don't use crappy generic branded ATFs. If you use Redline or Amsoil you should be fine.
I recently bought pennzoil ultra premium for 22$ at walmart. This is the one thats made from natural gas. I'm intrigued by this oil because its built up from smaller molecules instead of filtering out larger molecules as in regular synthetic oil. Iv read that the result makes the oil molecules more uniform which makes less friction. I don't know why its so cheap. maybe people are scared to put something new on the market into their cars.
^^^^^ Marketing hype. The UOA numbers look pretty similar to Mobil 1 and other quality oils. The one thing that Ultra may have going for it is the increased detergent action that they claim.
09-16-2011, 03:32 PM
