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I am replacing the engine with a spare on my 3.2L. It came out of a 2008 with 100k miles. While the engine is on garage floor waiting to be put in, I would like to do the timing belt service and have been reading about the shim installation. Problem is, carfax doesn't show that the timing belt was done or that a recall was performed for the chirp.
I really do not want to do this job twice so I am wanting to know if anyone know whether or not installing the shim kit on a timing belt that didn't chirp prior (i can only assume it did not with no record), will cause any issues as long as i grind it down as per the TSB?
I am replacing the engine with a spare on my 3.2L. It came out of a 2008 with 100k miles. While the engine is on garage floor waiting to be put in, I would like to do the timing belt service and have been reading about the shim installation. Problem is, carfax doesn't show that the timing belt was done or that a recall was performed for the chirp.
I really do not want to do this job twice so I am wanting to know if anyone know whether or not installing the shim kit on a timing belt that didn't chirp prior (i can only assume it did not with no record), will cause any issues as long as i grind it down as per the TSB?
Well, if there is no shim kit currently on the engine, then it may not need it, really hard to know. With the engine out of the car, it's a pretty simple matter to check for potential rubbing that would indicate the need to use the shim. Note that grinding may or may not be required, depending on measurement taken in step 5 of the TSB.
Well, if there is no shim kit currently on the engine, then it may not need it, really hard to know. With the engine out of the car, it's a pretty simple matter to check for potential rubbing that would indicate the need to use the shim. Note that grinding may or may not be required, depending on measurement taken in step 5 of the TSB.
well amazon decided to pack the shipment box using monkeys so the shim was lost in transition. I planned to do timing belt tomorrow and now i cannot.
I took off the CP and checked what i had. I noticed the engine mount in place already had a notch cut out like discussed in service bulletin, but no shim appears to be installed.
I have two options 1) assume that this engine does not have this issue or 2) call local parts dealer and see if they can get the shim by friday.
I am hoping the service is done regularly enough and on enough cars that they have it on hand.
Last I heard, the Aisin kit didn't come with the shim. Was there a separate kit for the shim that you ordered?
I'm not really sure that is a grind mark, plus I find it odd that they would go to the trouble to grind and not install the shim. Or said another way, per the TSB, if it needed to be ground, then it also required a shim.
Last edited by nfnsquared; 01-17-2018 at 10:18 PM.
Last I heard, the Aisin kit didn't come with the shim. Was there a separate kit for the shim that you ordered?
I'm not really sure that is a grind mark, plus I find it odd that they would go to the trouble to grind and not install the shim. Or said another way, per the TSB, if it needed to be ground, then it also required a shim.
the shim kit was separate purchase via amzon on same order. It was available with prime lol and was just the shim, which is all i need afaik.
I was hoping that the factory casting mark was an indication that this engine did not need the shim, but i am not sure anymore. I cannot locate this side engine mount bracket online to reference how it looks compared to mine because the TSB already shows a picture of it modified..ugh.
last time I tried to find a shim I ended up going home very sore. couldn't sit for a week.
If it's the shim I'm thinking...I want to say you can transfer it over from the original tensioner. Is that what we're talking about? I recall putting everything back together and something not clearing (rubbing on the water pump pulley?) until my ex wife pointed out that I needed to take a part and swap it over.
last time I tried to find a shim I ended up going home very sore. couldn't sit for a week.
If it's the shim I'm thinking...I want to say you can transfer it over from the original tensioner. Is that what we're talking about? I recall putting everything back together and something not clearing (rubbing on the water pump pulley?) until my ex wife pointed out that I needed to take a part and swap it over.
That is not the shim we are talking about.
TSB 08-031 for timing belt chirp directs the techs to install a shim (spacer that is angled) because the idler pulley mating surface is angled from the factory. The shim goes behind idler pulley.
I called local acura store and provided vin of new engine and they said the tsb does NOT apply to it. Not only that, they cannot even locate just the shim part number based on what it old them from amazons part number. SO i am shit out of luck to get it by tomorrow anyways. The shim kit they do have on order is $100 more then what i paid for everything and it doesn't even include a water pump..SMH.
I will take my chances for now, even though i may need to do it twice as worst case scenario.
TSB 08-031 for timing belt chirp directs the techs to install a shim (spacer that is angled) because the idler pulley mating surface is angled from the factory. The shim goes behind idler pulley.
I called local acura store and provided vin of new engine and they said the tsb does NOT apply to it. Not only that, they cannot even locate just the shim part number based on what it old them from amazons part number. SO i am shit out of luck to get it by tomorrow anyways. The shim kit they do have on order is $100 more then what i paid for everything and it doesn't even include a water pump..SMH.
I will take my chances for now, even though i may need to do it twice as worst case scenario.
I think you're probably going to be fine without the shim. Good luck, keep us updated!
I didn't have the key to lock the crankshaft bolt in place. Had to wedge the 19mm in on the frame, put the motor mount back in and turn it over with the starter to crack it loose (I now know several mechanics who use that trick). Since the oil pump seal has issues, did you end up doing that as well but not show it? Nice write up! Very useful, even though I'm seeing this 2 mths after I did mine.
If you decide to reseal oil pump then there's nothing really left to change.
I've seen some discussion about this—definitely going to check it out. Is it really just a silicone job? Is there a type of silicone I would need to buy?
Resealing the oil pump is a huge job, very time consuming. I just did this a few months ago on my AV6 in my garage. You need to drop the exhaust and the oil pan before you can get the pump off. I used Permatex ultra grey 500F rigid torque. Hondabond is hard to work with and cures too fast.
Resealing the oil pump is a huge job, very time consuming. I just did this a few months ago on my AV6 in my garage. You need to drop the exhaust and the oil pan before you can get the pump off. I used Permatex ultra grey 500F rigid torque. Hondabond is hard to work with and cures too fast.
Hondabond can be a pain, but it's not that bad. Ultra grey is good shit though. Can't go wrong. In regards to oil pump reseal. It's not that bad, but it's a lot better when you need to replace the timing belt already. Make sure there's more than enough room underneath to remove j-pipe and pan. I suggest everyone considering it take their time and be careful on the torque spec and sequence on the pump and pan. Also double-check your work. The missing crankshaft key in that last pic has me worried, but it being months from the job, I'm sure it was replaced.
Hondabond can be a pain, but it's not that bad. Ultra grey is good shit though. Can't go wrong. In regards to oil pump reseal. It's not that bad, but it's a lot better when you need to replace the timing belt already. Make sure there's more than enough room underneath to remove j-pipe and pan. I suggest everyone considering it take their time and be careful on the torque spec and sequence on the pump and pan. Also double-check your work. The missing crankshaft key in that last pic has me worried, but it being months from the job, I'm sure it was replaced.
Of course I inserted the woodruff key back and upgraded to a J35 crank pulley off an Acura MDX
3rd TB change coming up, probably in August-September
Doing it this week. 324K miles. Using Gates kit once again. The first 2 Gates kits ran flawlessly for ~110K miles each. Still on original clutch. Still only burns ~ 0.5 quarts of oil per 7500 OIC.
Probably not going to mess with the valves this time. Dunno, maybe I'll change my mind.
Firstly, thanks to the OP and all the previous posters. Between his write-up, the SM, and the 500 pages of comments, most possible issues were discussed and answered.
However, as I'm now beginning to reassemble everything, I encountered a minor issue which I don't think was addressed. My lower bolt in the engine mount bracket had Loctite from the factory (see red circle in attached image). The service manual does not mention loctite, nor did this thread.
My first thought was to add some but then I remembered I read somewhere that loctite on a bolt will affect the torque. Given that the three bolts on this bracket provide support to the waterpump, I don't want uneven torque on the bracket to mess with the waterpump seal.
Did anyone else find loctite on that bolt? Did you use loctite on re-assembly?
No hurry on the response. I'm waiting for warmer weather mid-week to finish the re-install.
I vaguely remember thread locker on those bolts for the bracket. I don't think it hurts to dab them. If the SM didn't say to dab them, then I probably didn't. I'll probably be doing another service on my MDX, I'll update when I do if I notice any. Pushing 220k on it.
Originally Posted by nfnsquared
Doing it this week. 324K miles. Using Gates kit once again. The first 2 Gates kits ran flawlessly for ~110K miles each. Still on original clutch. Still only burns ~ 0.5 quarts of oil per 7500 OIC.
Probably not going to mess with the valves this time. Dunno, maybe I'll change my mind.
Valves are no problem to wait if it's not misfiring
Only benefit doing it now is if you have the plugs out
^^^
The only factory loctite (red) I encountered was on the idler pulley bolt.
With that said, for those who are interested. Here are a few pictures of a 17 year old factory timing belt with 51K miles on it. Just did a TB install on a recently acquired automatic SC'ed 03 CL-S, that I'm returning back to stock to flip. The belt looks like it's new.
No visible wear.
Back to stock.
Thank the lord for readily available cheap salvage yard parts.
Just need to remove the 'fuel' mods to complete the SC'er kit.
@zeta you selling that SC kit?
I didn't realize you flip cars.
Makes sense since you are a
world of knowledge.
I don't recall dealing with any loctite
my entire timing service.
@nfnsquared I just did the valve cover gaskets on
the blue TL-S and opted to skip the valves too...plugs
looked newish and it was running fine so didn't want to
get into that.
@zeta you selling that SC kit?
I didn't realize you flip cars.
Makes sense since you are a
world of knowledge.
I don't recall dealing with any loctite
my entire timing service.
The 2G CL-S/TL-S automatic S/C'er kit (less IK 22 spark plugs & Walbro 255 fuel pump); CT LW strut bar, CT front/rear Sway Bars, HB pulley, unorthodox LW stock size crank and P/S pulley will eventually be put in the Black Market section. The car is from NY State, so ALL of the exhaust fasteners are rusted to high h3ll. Otherwise, I'm not sure if I want to fuss with removing the CT headers, B-pipe and axle back mufflers, we'll see.
Originally Posted by Majofo
Good looking belt
Still, rubber rot is real
That CL-S is clean
Really smart to sell S/C separately
That's ~2x profit
Originally Posted by nfnsquared
I don't remember any loctite on that bolt. You say it's factory loctite? Are you saying that this is the first time that that bolt has been pulled?
If you are talking to me, this is the second time I've removed the TB idler pulley bolt and found red Loctite residue on the threads, from the factory. Once, on my TB install on my CL-S6 and two days ago on this automatic CL-S I'm returning to stock.
Just a little test for the folks out there. When I bought the car, the owner sent me the picture above and complained of misfires on cylinders 2; 5 and 6 and the car running rougher than usual.
Looking at the picture above, who can spot the mistake a DIY'er commonly makes when working on this car?
I will clean the threads and not use loctite. The only other place that mentioned loctite on that bolt was Eric O at southmain auto youtube on his Honda pilot timing belt video.
All sources mention using loctite on the timing belt idler bolt.
Zeta – My 15 year-old belt also looked brand new (2005 TL with 101K) as did the adjuster pulley, the idler pulley, and the tensioner. My water pump had the beginnings of bad bearings (very slight noise, barely noticeable without a stethoscope) and had begun to leak a 1/4 inch of reservoir level per hour of run-time. I was hoping not to tackle this job in the winter but didn’t feel lucky enough to drive the car knowing coolant was spraying that area.
Nfnsquared- I bought the car new in 2005 and had never had reason to remove that bolt. The car was dealer serviced until 2015 but only for scheduled maintenance like oil changes and safety recalls.
01-15-2018, 09:03 AM
w NFN
SC'ed 03 CL-S, that I'm returning back to stock to flip. The belt looks like it's new.
