A-122: DIY - 105k Service: Timing Belt, Water Pump, Spark Plugs, Thermostat *PICS*
#441
Vegas Bum
Not sure how over tightening the CP bolt would do this...I think after 10 years of driving the rubber gasket decided it was finally time to go.
Here are a couple of things that might have accelerated this breakdown during my TB replacement:
1. Process of removing the CP to access the TB
2. Cleaning the CP with break cleaner
3. Installing a new drive belt and new auto tensioner (like I said it ran fine for 2 weeks and then started to make noise under load from the AC)
Here are a couple of things that might have accelerated this breakdown during my TB replacement:
1. Process of removing the CP to access the TB
2. Cleaning the CP with break cleaner
3. Installing a new drive belt and new auto tensioner (like I said it ran fine for 2 weeks and then started to make noise under load from the AC)
#442
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
It was a joke guys..
#443
Vegas Bum
#444
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
#445
Majofo, thank you very much for this great DIY write-up. I just completed this project this weekend on my 2005 TL. It really is not as bad a some make it out to be. Just take your time and follow the steps in this write-up and also have the factory service manual available. The crank pully bolt did give me a hard time though. I broke a couple 1/2" extentions before I tried heating it. Once I heated the bolt, it popped with the breaker bar pretty easy. I did the whole timing belt/water pump service as well as new spark plugs, thermostat, adjusted valve lash and new serpentine belt. Whole process took about 15 hours or so over three days. A reasonable amount of time if you ask me for a great learning experience and saving a bunch of money.
I did have a check engine light on, but it was just a connector not fully seated
I did have a check engine light on, but it was just a connector not fully seated
#446
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
Awesome! I'm really glad I can help you guys out, if even giving you that little extra bit of encouragement.
#447
Pretty Awesome work guys
Wow, my 2004 has 92K on it and I am starting to gather parts to attempt this job in the upcoming months. I have the plugs and started to research the belts and water pump, etc... This write up is fantastic. You guys really make it look pretty straight forward; however, I know each car is and can be different.
I'm thinking replacing all the pulleys, WP and belt in one shot is well worth going back into that area a second time.
Thanks to all in this forum. Just awesome!
I'm thinking replacing all the pulleys, WP and belt in one shot is well worth going back into that area a second time.
Thanks to all in this forum. Just awesome!
#448
Drifting
^ Great writeup and thread in general.
After reading the thread and reviews, I'll probably go with the Amazon parts as follows:
Gates TCK286 Timing Belt Component Kit
Bosch 97216 New Water Pump
Gates KS15701 Camshaft Seal kit
Gates K060841 Serpentine Belt/Fan Belt - (oops this is for my Pilot not sure about TL)
Powerbuilt 648796 Honda Crankcase Pulley Removal Tool
Beck Arnley 024-1439 Timing Belt Adjuster
NGK (3657) IZFR5K11 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs (6)
All this stuff is 284.76 with shipping and tax already factored in. Add another $40 to get a thermostat and new hoses optionally (since the coolant needs replacement anyway). I think the Bosch water pump brings the issues with the other Gates Timing Belt kit to rest regarding the Chinese water pump.
After reading the thread and reviews, I'll probably go with the Amazon parts as follows:
Gates TCK286 Timing Belt Component Kit
Bosch 97216 New Water Pump
Gates KS15701 Camshaft Seal kit
Gates K060841 Serpentine Belt/Fan Belt - (oops this is for my Pilot not sure about TL)
Powerbuilt 648796 Honda Crankcase Pulley Removal Tool
Beck Arnley 024-1439 Timing Belt Adjuster
NGK (3657) IZFR5K11 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs (6)
All this stuff is 284.76 with shipping and tax already factored in. Add another $40 to get a thermostat and new hoses optionally (since the coolant needs replacement anyway). I think the Bosch water pump brings the issues with the other Gates Timing Belt kit to rest regarding the Chinese water pump.
Last edited by LaCostaRacer; 08-26-2012 at 07:26 PM.
#449
Burning Brakes
Majofo, Thank you for your write up & pictures for the 105k service, this gave me the confidence to do this to my TL. The crank pulley bolt was a PINTA but I used the starter method, after attempting to use a breaker bar and heat. It's been 10K miles and still counting.
#450
LOVE this man. the only tip I would add, is it makes it a little easier to unbolt the power steering pump, and lay it off to the side with the hoses still on it, just so it's not in the way of everything. it's a little trick I learned working at the Honda dealer, that I've never seen used other than there. just thought i'd try and help out. love this diy tho. keep it up.
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JD TL-S (03-19-2015)
#451
the overexplainer
I believe older Odysseys and 2G TL actually required removal of the pump to access the TB area. 3G TL not so much.
you can remove it if you dont want to hear it ding like a bell whenever you hit the ps pulley with a wrench or something i suppose. Not a big deal though.
you can remove it if you dont want to hear it ding like a bell whenever you hit the ps pulley with a wrench or something i suppose. Not a big deal though.
Last edited by ez12a; 09-06-2012 at 10:51 AM.
#452
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
Honestly, PS pump wasn't in the way much. I'm pretty sure it's a different story for the 2G TL and X. I believe they run a two belt system as well.
#453
Used this to remove the crankbolt. 3/4 breaker bar, 1:3.3 torque multiplier, 3/4 impact extension and 19mm deep impact socket.
For those questioning why I used impact extensions, thats what happened to my regular extensions.
#454
Intermediate
Mine is next, I got the tools, impact wrench. Waiting for the Tensioner to come in. I performed some initial checks when removing the covers and found my TB to be lose or I think it's lose. I can push it with my finger, some deflection in that area. Something tells me it should be tight.
#455
Racer
Anyone live in Hawaii, OAHU and did this before or knows how to? Let me know, id rather pay you then the dealer for this service. Acura of Honolulu is a rip off!
#456
Instructor
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Westchester County, New Rochelle
Age: 37
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Hello my TL brothers, I live in New Rochelle NY and I have 65k on my 2008 base TL. I really like this thread and could do some of the work but not all. Does anyone live near me or in the tri state area (NY,NJ,CT) Id also pay some money for assistance. I know its a bit early but hey i do it now and get it over with. Thanks Guys
#457
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
You're good for another 2 years / 40k.. don't waste your time or money. You don't have anything to worry about.
#458
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
Also if you do get it done.. look for a good deal.. freaking Hamilton Honda (NJ) was doing the labor for like 100-150.
#460
Timing belt replacement
I appreciate all your guys instructions on how DiY the timing belt on my ACURA tl it help a lot, the car is running like a champ! no more that rattling noise in the morning. It sound great thanks. I did change everything that you recommended. Ones again thanks
#462
Type Sour
iTrader: (2)
My 2004 TL is at 69k miles, my mechanic suggests I do the 105k maintanance. I only want to buy the basic kit at $321.00. I'm thinking my mechanic wants to change every thing which is in the price range of $500 for parts. Should I change everything ? Or just buy the basic kit and pay for labor? He's charging me around $650-$700.
Last edited by THEReeM718; 10-29-2012 at 07:43 PM.
#463
the overexplainer
What does he consider "everything"? If you're trying to save a buck, only do the timing belt components since that is really the only point of catastrophic failure. This means: timing belt, water pump, tensioner pulley, hydraulic tensioner, and idler pulley. Pretty much everything that touches the timing belt gets replaced minus the crank and cams.
A gates timing belt kit (5pc) + drive belt + spark plugs should cost no more than $300 in parts. All fluids besides oil maybe another 70-$100. You dont need plugs at 70k.
to put it in perspective, I DIYed the timing belt and its components for around $300 @ around 69k miles including the cost of tools. Drive belt and other things I can get to later and doesnt require that much work relatively.
A gates timing belt kit (5pc) + drive belt + spark plugs should cost no more than $300 in parts. All fluids besides oil maybe another 70-$100. You dont need plugs at 70k.
to put it in perspective, I DIYed the timing belt and its components for around $300 @ around 69k miles including the cost of tools. Drive belt and other things I can get to later and doesnt require that much work relatively.
Last edited by ez12a; 10-29-2012 at 09:03 PM.
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THEReeM718 (10-29-2012)
#464
Chapter Leader (Houston)
iTrader: (7)
My 2004 TL is at 69k miles, my mechanic suggests I do the 105k maintanance. I only want to buy the basic kit at $321.00. I'm thinking my mechanic wants to change every thing which is in the price range of $500 for parts. Should I change everything ? Or just buy the basic kit and pay for labor? He's charging me around $650-$700.
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THEReeM718 (10-29-2012)
#466
Sorry if I've missed a earlier post going through this thread but after attempting this I noticed whoever did my belt last chipped a nice edge off the crank pulley where the hex tool is supposed to wedge in. Not sure if its possible to get a good bite anymore to break that crank bolt loose now. I'm running good off 245k (mostly highway) miles on 05 v6 Accord and might just let the engine go at this point. Was planning on a j32a2 swap anyway. Any suggestions or alternative ways to do this without causing further damage. Shops around me want 850 to do the job and some just advise replacing my engine instead.
#467
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
#468
Race Director
Sorry if I've missed a earlier post going through this thread but after attempting this I noticed whoever did my belt last chipped a nice edge off the crank pulley where the hex tool is supposed to wedge in. Not sure if its possible to get a good bite anymore to break that crank bolt loose now. I'm running good off 245k (mostly highway) miles on 05 v6 Accord and might just let the engine go at this point. Was planning on a j32a2 swap anyway. Any suggestions or alternative ways to do this without causing further damage. Shops around me want 850 to do the job and some just advise replacing my engine instead.
Any pics?
You can still get the bolt off without the hex tool using the "bump" method or with a high powered air wrench.
Last edited by nfnsquared; 11-09-2012 at 02:01 PM.
#471
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
Are you sure about this? I'd think you would notice the vibration from an out of balance crank pulley. Not to mention, it's hard to imagine how someone broke/chipped a crank pulley.
Any pics?
You can still get the bolt off without the hex tool using the "bump" method or with a high powered air wrench.
Any pics?
You can still get the bolt off without the hex tool using the "bump" method or with a high powered air wrench.
#472
I really should of got a pic of it before putting it back together but the region where the chip is missing is only intended on giving the wedge tool something to bite. Not significant enough to alter the way the crank pulley works (Correct me if I'm wrong). The bolt is fine. Its just the hex tool is no longer an option for me for the pulley has one missing edge to grip on for that hex tool specifically. It's really hard to explain any issue with a car with excessive miles and late maintenance.
Is the bump method mentioned earlier in this thread? I do have the compressor so I'll just have to go out and buy the gun & adapter. I should of done that in the first place.
Also thanks for the speedy help.
Is the bump method mentioned earlier in this thread? I do have the compressor so I'll just have to go out and buy the gun & adapter. I should of done that in the first place.
Also thanks for the speedy help.
#473
Race Director
Well, I would replace the crank pulley...
Yes, somewhere in this thread there is a link to the lightweight crank pulley thread which describes the "bump" method.
Without a professional level compressor and 3/4" - 1" air impact wrench, you are not likely to get that bolt off. I'd suggest taking it to a shop and have them pop the bolt loose with their professional wrench. Then have them re-tighten (by hand) it enough for the drive home. After that, you should be able to get it off no problem with a socket wrench and breaker bar (may not even need much of a breaker bar).
Edit: disregard my statement in blue, forgot about the hex tool issue. Still, any 1/2" air wrench should be able to pop it loose after the above.
p.s. if you just got done re-installing the crank bolt, a normal 1/2" air wrench and compressor might pop it loose.
Yes, somewhere in this thread there is a link to the lightweight crank pulley thread which describes the "bump" method.
Without a professional level compressor and 3/4" - 1" air impact wrench, you are not likely to get that bolt off. I'd suggest taking it to a shop and have them pop the bolt loose with their professional wrench. Then have them re-tighten (by hand) it enough for the drive home. After that, you should be able to get it off no problem with a socket wrench and breaker bar (may not even need much of a breaker bar).
Edit: disregard my statement in blue, forgot about the hex tool issue. Still, any 1/2" air wrench should be able to pop it loose after the above.
p.s. if you just got done re-installing the crank bolt, a normal 1/2" air wrench and compressor might pop it loose.
Last edited by nfnsquared; 11-09-2012 at 04:51 PM.
#474
the overexplainer
yeah a shop would be the best bet. I didnt resort to the bump start method until i asked my shop who would've done it free if they weren't so busy on the weekends. I cant take days off work though to meet their schedule.
If you end up going with the bump start method, PM me or something and I'll tell you how it's done. There are youtube videos showing pretty much how it works.
If you end up going with the bump start method, PM me or something and I'll tell you how it's done. There are youtube videos showing pretty much how it works.
#475
Shop does sound like the best idea. I've seen one other method where this guy took a rubber hose and shoved it down the first valve till it bottomed out to the point nothing could move as he got the cp bolt free. After loosened he tightened it just enough to set the marks right and continued from there. He did mention there's a risk of internal engine damage and with my engine running 245k miles I'm pretty sure something internally would break under the pressure.
#476
Race Director
Did he say also you had a purdy mouth? Think I'd stay away from that guy and his methods....
Last edited by nfnsquared; 11-09-2012 at 06:13 PM.
#477
My TL folks!
Ok, Im in Germany and I need to get my timing belt changed. Im waaay past due - 125k already... So I have to order this stuff from Amazon (most Acura Parts dont ship to APO for some reason) and I need some assistance. So looking through the thread, I see that the Gates timing belt kit might be what I need, but also reading through the thread the water pump isn't good??? What else do I need so I order the right parts? This is what I'm looking at so far:
1 - Gates TCKWP329 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - $151.57 Amazon
2 - Gates K060841 Serpentine Belt/Fan Belt by Gates - $22.02 Amazon
3 - Spark Plugs - still looking for a set on Amazon
Thanks!
Stuck
Ok, Im in Germany and I need to get my timing belt changed. Im waaay past due - 125k already... So I have to order this stuff from Amazon (most Acura Parts dont ship to APO for some reason) and I need some assistance. So looking through the thread, I see that the Gates timing belt kit might be what I need, but also reading through the thread the water pump isn't good??? What else do I need so I order the right parts? This is what I'm looking at so far:
1 - Gates TCKWP329 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - $151.57 Amazon
2 - Gates K060841 Serpentine Belt/Fan Belt by Gates - $22.02 Amazon
3 - Spark Plugs - still looking for a set on Amazon
Thanks!
Stuck
#478
Race Director
My TL folks!
Ok, Im in Germany and I need to get my timing belt changed. Im waaay past due - 125k already... So I have to order this stuff from Amazon (most Acura Parts dont ship to APO for some reason) and I need some assistance. So looking through the thread, I see that the Gates timing belt kit might be what I need, but also reading through the thread the water pump isn't good??? What else do I need so I order the right parts? This is what I'm looking at so far:
1 - Gates TCKWP329 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - $151.57 Amazon
2 - Gates K060841 Serpentine Belt/Fan Belt by Gates - $22.02 Amazon
3 - Spark Plugs - still looking for a set on Amazon
Thanks!
Stuck
Ok, Im in Germany and I need to get my timing belt changed. Im waaay past due - 125k already... So I have to order this stuff from Amazon (most Acura Parts dont ship to APO for some reason) and I need some assistance. So looking through the thread, I see that the Gates timing belt kit might be what I need, but also reading through the thread the water pump isn't good??? What else do I need so I order the right parts? This is what I'm looking at so far:
1 - Gates TCKWP329 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - $151.57 Amazon
2 - Gates K060841 Serpentine Belt/Fan Belt by Gates - $22.02 Amazon
3 - Spark Plugs - still looking for a set on Amazon
Thanks!
Stuck
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Stuck (11-16-2012)