coykiam

So I ordered the following:

28610-RAY-003
28600-RAY-003

But received the following:

28610-RAY-003
28600-RKE-004

Are these the right parts?

I re-read the thread (yes all 15) but did not see 28600-RKE-004. Can someone confirm if the 28600-RKE-004 is the right one for a 2006 TL 5AT? Thanks all.

coykiam

anyone?

wilztlxs

iTrader: (8)

you may want to call the dealer you purchased them from.

apgiik

Great info!!

loganva

So I found 28610-RAY-003 and 28600-RAY-013 on Amazon for $30/piece. (I have an 06 TL)

The brand says SINS though, anyone know if this is OEM or should I avoid?

skadoo323

I would probably avoid them.

Genegoesfast

Did you ever figure this out? I received the same thing ordering the same part numbers.

wish2345

can we get a confirmation on the correct part numbers?

YungMoola15

Guys can someone please link to the switches for a 2005 TL? I would be forever grateful lol.

YungMoola15

Found the parts on Amazon. $28 each just received them today and they are genuine Honda.

YungMoola15

It's still so confusing.

Can someone who's done this confirm if this video done on a 2nd gen TL is same as 3rd gen?

LuizDuartel

ok sorry this is a huge tread to read the whole thing... even thoe I went throught 4 pages, so I have a 2008 automatic TL, I will need 1x 3rd gear switch and 2x 4th gear switch ? could anyone tell me the part number so I can order it and is there any DIY guide to do the 2008 since there is another switch where would the be located, thanks in advance have a great week

MonkeyTrucker

Ditto...ordered from Bernardi.

MonkeyTrucker

Nevermind for those ordering for 04-06 and are receiving the "RKE" parts...see this thread.

Slpr04UA6

Here is the DIY for 2007-2008 TL's.

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...-08-tl-840630/






You can order through one of our vendors here on the site, or your local dealer.


Welcome to Azine!

Scottwax

Fixing to finally do this. My transmission was rebuilt last year and nearly 30k miles ago. Everything seems really good other than occasionally when it is warm and I've been on the freeway for a while and have to slow down and then accelerate again, there is a slight flare when the transmission downshifts from 5th to 4th. And it is extremely temperature dependent (not at all in the winter) and pretty random even when it's been warmer.

The shop used Dextron III with the Lubegard Honda additive and I've since done two drain and fills with Honda DW1 ATF so the fluid looks great. I'm hoping its just the pressure switch is no longer in spec.

nvasion

How often should these switches be changed.

floridaboy321

I'll be doing this this afternoon once my car cools off some. Thanks for the write up! Should make my evening easy! I'm also flushing the trans and replacing the filter so I'm hoping my old gal will be as back to new as she can get. '05 with 134K, pretty sure the switches, fluid and filter are originals.

brianSD_42

I just did these on my 08 Base with 52k miles.

As I mentioned in another thread this worked out great for me.

ATL4

damn did anyone pay $200 at the dealers for these two switches and washers????
I feel like I just got ripped off.

polobunny

~$80/ea + tx in Canada, so people try to find them elsewhere. oemacuraparts.com for instance, Tim is a really good and helpful guy and trusted seller.

ATL4

Thanks Polobunny!

Can anyone confirm 28600-RKE-004 (4th Pressure Switch) and 28610-RKE-004 (3rd Pressure Switch) are the correct part #?

LuizDuartel

I got them online around $35 - 40 each

polobunny

Absolutely.

bymotion

Anyone close to State College, PA that can help me out with this? I'll buy beer or dinner or pay some cash for the help.

ATL4

I know these sensors are suppose to be colour coded but for my 3rd pressure sensor I received a black one from the dealership but When I swapped my 3rd sensor from the car it was a greyish colour.
does this still work? can anyone verify this?

ATL4

^^ forgot to mention this is being done on an 04 TL. It seems like they gave me pressure switches for a 07-08 TL :S

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

Ordered my switches/gaskets today. Will be doing a 3x3 with Redline as well. Do you guys recommend changing the switches on the last fluid drain, or does it really not matter?


'05 TL - 187k Miles




Kudos to everyone who contributed information and pictures to this thread. Another reason Azine is the best car forum out there!!!

polobunny

Does not really matter, you'll lose a bit of fluid while changing them so you might want to do them before the last one if you have a limited amount of ATF.

Majofo

It absolutely doesn't matter because ATF drain is from the torque converter case and the switches are on the other side of the valve body. It's also an insignificant amount of ATF lost when changing them.

polobunny

Lost around a table spoon at best. Goes well on pancakes or waffles if you feel bad about your brand new Red Line going in the trash.

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

Thanks guys! Can't wait to get this done.

bymotion

Did you end up getting this?

EagleEye

I saw the same thing on Amazon. Ended up just buying from Delray. It's $20 bucks diff... not enough for me to try and save since I am going through the trouble of doing it.

EagleEye

The newer models look different. What's important is the part number. I think the one with the 10 is for the 3rd and w/o is for the 4th.

Just carefully lookup the old part number and make the correlation. Take one out of the bag at a time so you don't mix them up.

EagleEye

Last time that mine was changed was at 95K. I noticed that I lost the crisp shifting at around 150K. I replaced them and it's an absolute must. Brought the shift back to quick and crisp. Wish I made a video to show the difference before an after.

I use DW1 fluid. Thinking about maybe switching to redline. But, hey the new DW1 stuff has been working fine for the past 70K. So, I'll just stick with it. I do change the ATF every 10-12K, however (every 3 regular oil change).

EagleEye

I also bought a cheap tool to remove those pesky plastic clips to get to the ATF drain bolt. Bought it at Harbor Freight. Went home and put it on my grind wheel to thin it out so that it can wedge out the plastic locking pin. Makes the job a lot more enjoyable than trying to remove those things with regular needle nose and flat heads.

nist7

Yeah another poster has mentioned pressure switch intervals to be around 50k or less. Don't forget the ATF filter as well!

I also just stuck with the DW-1 but after reading this: Redline

I may start doing all Red Line D4 on my next ATF fill/flush. You can do the racing/D4 mix but according to that guy there may be higher risk for wear due to lower friction modifier so if you are queasy, safer to just go all D4 as it appears to be a better, fully synthetic fluid overall and better than DW-1

pohljm

Can anyone confirm the color of the switch connector relative to 3rd or 4th gear? replacement switches are not same colors.

banzaibullitt

Just did this today on my step daughter's '04 TL 172K+ miles. Her trans light was flashing intermittently. I didn't do the flush, because it was done a couple of months ago. After changing the switches, I hammered on it a couple of times and had no issues.

I removed the tire for much better access.

The most current p/n for the switches are listed below...

3rd Clutch PSI Switch: 28610-RKE-004



4th Clutch PSI Switch: 28600-RKE-004

Washer: 90471-PW7-A00

The current part numbers listed above were given to me by an Acura dealership.