A-110(a): DIY Guide to replacing 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch for 3G TL (2004-2006)
01-15-2019, 11:18 AM
#721
7th Gear
Sorry to bump an old thread but, yeah I ended up opting for the SINS switches from amazon, after 2 months, the 3rd gear switch (28610-RKE-004) still works fine and shifts are smooth through 2nd and 3rd (I had a slight shudder shifting from 2nd to 3rd on light acceleration), however, the 4th failed and I started getting the blinking D light.
It set off code P0873 -- which corresponds to 4th gear switch "open" or "stuck off" the code reader picked "stuck off"
I tried cleaning it, it still looked fine. Transmission fluid checked and everything checks out, right under the full line on the dip stick where I left it.
I even stuck a skinny allen in the switch (male end) to see if maybe some metal particles got in there, and perhaps the spring isn't actuating the switch -- that was fine as well, clean on the inside, only pink fluid came out, the switch clicked on and off like it was supposed to.
I even went as far as to check continuity when it is switched on and off (done by the allen key stuck in the side getting screwed into the transmission, you'll hear a click when you've pressed the switch) -- and even that was fine. Maybe I just got a faulty switch that failed after 2 months?
I bought an original Honda pressure switch for replacement and it solved my problem of the blinking D light. Just my two cents. Still blows my mind how that switch failed after 2 months.
It set off code P0873 -- which corresponds to 4th gear switch "open" or "stuck off" the code reader picked "stuck off"
I tried cleaning it, it still looked fine. Transmission fluid checked and everything checks out, right under the full line on the dip stick where I left it.
I even stuck a skinny allen in the switch (male end) to see if maybe some metal particles got in there, and perhaps the spring isn't actuating the switch -- that was fine as well, clean on the inside, only pink fluid came out, the switch clicked on and off like it was supposed to.
I even went as far as to check continuity when it is switched on and off (done by the allen key stuck in the side getting screwed into the transmission, you'll hear a click when you've pressed the switch) -- and even that was fine. Maybe I just got a faulty switch that failed after 2 months?
I bought an original Honda pressure switch for replacement and it solved my problem of the blinking D light. Just my two cents. Still blows my mind how that switch failed after 2 months.
Beware of the SINS switches from Amazon.
01-15-2019, 11:06 PM
#722
Burning Brakes
Ugh, this does suck. Unfortunately, it's one of those situations where I wouldn't run anything other than OEM with this Honda automatic transmission. It's just not worth it.
I would DEFINITELY replace with OEM switches asap! Great idea!
I would DEFINITELY replace with OEM switches asap! Great idea!
01-16-2019, 10:03 PM
#723
7th Gear
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Haven't logged back on to post on this, but After about 3 weeks the shudder came back. I've been going back and forth in my head on whether or not to change the fluid. I did some research on the vehicle and found out the last trans drain/fill was done at 70K miles (now around 184K). The last oil change i got a few weeks ago I had one of the service guys check the fluid. He said it didn't smell burnt but the fluid was definitely dark. The shudder is back but only seems to do it 1) When the car is cold and 2) When accelerating VERY easily from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th (25mph to around 40mph). All in all the car drives really well and i'm still very unsure as to whether i change the fluid out. Anyone else have any thoughts? Really appreciate all the help here...
01-17-2019, 07:03 AM
#724
Cruisin'
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Haven't logged back on to post on this, but After about 3 weeks the shudder came back. I've been going back and forth in my head on whether or not to change the fluid. I did some research on the vehicle and found out the last trans drain/fill was done at 70K miles (now around 184K). The last oil change i got a few weeks ago I had one of the service guys check the fluid. He said it didn't smell burnt but the fluid was definitely dark. The shudder is back but only seems to do it 1) When the car is cold and 2) When accelerating VERY easily from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th (25mph to around 40mph). All in all the car drives really well and i'm still very unsure as to whether i change the fluid out. Anyone else have any thoughts? Really appreciate all the help here...
I personally would not do a full 3x3. That is what I did, although did not have a shutter. Only had a whine in the cold whether that most likely was the torque converter. After the 3x3 the transmission went to hell. Although I had a lot of weight in the car that day so that also helped lead to the demise I’m sure. But, a 3x3 puts in basically 100% new fluid and new fluid will clean out particles etc that could be holding things together. It is a highly abrupt change especially if none of the fluid has been changed for that long. I would sooner do a single fluid change and slowly introduce new fluid over time.
i did not read back through the posts but did you ever change the pressure switches? That would be the first suggestion if you haven’t. If you did, were they aftermarket or Acura OEM switches?
01-17-2019, 08:14 AM
#725
7th Gear
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When you say last drain and fill do you mean a full 3x3 or just a normal transmission fluid change, which is just like 1/3 or even 1/4 of the fluid?
I personally would not do a full 3x3. That is what I did, although did not have a shutter. Only had a whine in the cold whether that most likely was the torque converter. After the 3x3 the transmission went to hell. Although I had a lot of weight in the car that day so that also helped lead to the demise I’m sure. But, a 3x3 puts in basically 100% new fluid and new fluid will clean out particles etc that could be holding things together. It is a highly abrupt change especially if none of the fluid has been changed for that long. I would sooner do a single fluid change and slowly introduce new fluid over time.
i did not read back through the posts but did you ever change the pressure switches? That would be the first suggestion if you haven’t. If you did, were they aftermarket or Acura OEM switches?
4th Gear Switch (28600-RAY-013 according to dealer)
3rd Gear Switch (28610-RKE-004 according to dealer)
I'm still using these switches but they are basically now performing the same as the ones I replaced.
It appears to me the previous owner did a simple 1x3 drain and refill. I'm kinda leaning towards your thinking to just do a single 1x3 and maybe drive on it for 6 months. If the car is basically driving OK (occasional shudder but nothing big), should I do this or leave well enough alone?
01-17-2019, 10:56 AM
#726
Burning Brakes
Please do this correctly and pay the additional $50 ($25 each) for the OEM pressure switches. Even if there are only a handful of people who have expressed concerns with the SINS brand, would you want to risk it? With something as fragile as the 04-06 automatic transmissions, OEM parts are a no-brainer in my onion. For $50 extra, you wont' have to worry about fitment, quality, or performance. It takes the stress out of something like this, knowing you have the CORRECT part designed for your transmission.
Also, a 1x3 and driving for 6 months does seem very excessive. I would say, maybe a week or two of driving and you could continue with replacing the fluid again if you're really paranoid. Most people have performed a 1x3, drive the car for 15-20 minutes (making sure to run through each gear) and changed the fluid 2 more times with no issues.
I performed a 3x3 on my TL at 130k miles and had zero issues afterwards. The transmission actually shifted much smoother and I was happy knowing that my contaminated fluid wasn't hurting my transmission further. I also completed a 3x3 recently on my wife's RDX at 110k miles with no issues to-date. Just stay away from oil shops that offer to vacuum out your old transmission fluid. The suction method has proven to be dangerous as the debris can embed themselves in each crevice of your gears. I think that's where you would run the risk of changing all of the fluid at once.
Also, a 1x3 and driving for 6 months does seem very excessive. I would say, maybe a week or two of driving and you could continue with replacing the fluid again if you're really paranoid. Most people have performed a 1x3, drive the car for 15-20 minutes (making sure to run through each gear) and changed the fluid 2 more times with no issues.
I performed a 3x3 on my TL at 130k miles and had zero issues afterwards. The transmission actually shifted much smoother and I was happy knowing that my contaminated fluid wasn't hurting my transmission further. I also completed a 3x3 recently on my wife's RDX at 110k miles with no issues to-date. Just stay away from oil shops that offer to vacuum out your old transmission fluid. The suction method has proven to be dangerous as the debris can embed themselves in each crevice of your gears. I think that's where you would run the risk of changing all of the fluid at once.
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Dave W (01-06-2021)
01-17-2019, 12:39 PM
#727
7th Gear
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Please do this correctly and pay the additional $50 ($25 each) for the OEM pressure switches. Even if there are only a handful of people who have expressed concerns with the SINS brand, would you want to risk it? With something as fragile as the 04-06 automatic transmissions, OEM parts are a no-brainer in my onion. For $50 extra, you wont' have to worry about fitment, quality, or performance. It takes the stress out of something like this, knowing you have the CORRECT part designed for your transmission.
Also, a 1x3 and driving for 6 months does seem very excessive. I would say, maybe a week or two of driving and you could continue with replacing the fluid again if you're really paranoid. Most people have performed a 1x3, drive the car for 15-20 minutes (making sure to run through each gear) and changed the fluid 2 more times with no issues.
I performed a 3x3 on my TL at 130k miles and had zero issues afterwards. The transmission actually shifted much smoother and I was happy knowing that my contaminated fluid wasn't hurting my transmission further. I also completed a 3x3 recently on my wife's RDX at 110k miles with no issues to-date. Just stay away from oil shops that offer to vacuum out your old transmission fluid. The suction method has proven to be dangerous as the debris can embed themselves in each crevice of your gears. I think that's where you would run the risk of changing all of the fluid at once.
Also, a 1x3 and driving for 6 months does seem very excessive. I would say, maybe a week or two of driving and you could continue with replacing the fluid again if you're really paranoid. Most people have performed a 1x3, drive the car for 15-20 minutes (making sure to run through each gear) and changed the fluid 2 more times with no issues.
I performed a 3x3 on my TL at 130k miles and had zero issues afterwards. The transmission actually shifted much smoother and I was happy knowing that my contaminated fluid wasn't hurting my transmission further. I also completed a 3x3 recently on my wife's RDX at 110k miles with no issues to-date. Just stay away from oil shops that offer to vacuum out your old transmission fluid. The suction method has proven to be dangerous as the debris can embed themselves in each crevice of your gears. I think that's where you would run the risk of changing all of the fluid at once.
02-13-2019, 08:13 PM
#728
Advanced
Deep In the middle of 3rd & 4th pressure switch change on my 2004 TL AT for the second time. Everyone please listen to "wusty", I didn't see his post about the bad SINS switches. Well I bought them crap SIMS back in November, had my mechanic install them, plus the first of the 3X tranny fluid change. Got the green blinking D light, and just found this thread couple weeks ago. Just got new OEM switches from OEMAcuraParts.com ($126.00 delivered). My guy will install them tomorrow along with a new front motor mount (that's another story) .
02-13-2019, 08:36 PM
#729
Advanced
I have been reading these forums since November trying to diagnose that blinking green D light. There are 20 - 40 codes regarding this ailment, and finally found wusty's post - MANY THANKS to you ! Well somehow I thought my tranny had a leak , so I would just pull over add a splash, and the light would go off. Probably did this 10 plus times, till three weeks ago and I had my 3rd and final AT fluid change of the 3X. Also I realized that I could pull over, turn car off and restart - light quit blinking. Well....there was NO sign of a leak whatsoever !! Still have no idea where all that fluid was going ??!! I will update in the next few days about the PS change. Hopefully I won't have anymore problems. B
02-13-2019, 08:37 PM
#730
Senior Moderator
I have been reading these forums since November trying to diagnose that blinking green D light. There are 20 - 40 codes regarding this ailment, and finally found wusty's post - MANY THANKS to you ! Well somehow I thought my tranny had a leak , so I would just pull over add a splash, and the light would go off. Probably did this 10 plus times, till three weeks ago and I had my 3rd and final AT fluid change of the 3X. Also I realized that I could pull over, turn car off and restart - light quit blinking. Well....there was NO sign of a leak whatsoever !! Still have no idea where all that fluid was going ??!! I will update in the next few days about the PS change. Hopefully I won't have anymore problems. B
02-13-2019, 09:28 PM
#732
Senior Moderator
02-19-2019, 02:29 PM
#733
Advanced
Update ! Just got my car back today and am happy to report that my problem has been solved/fixed. Turns out the black switch was cracked (one was black & one gray). Just got off the phone with Amazon and after a LONG explanation of my problem with the SIMS switches (bought back in October) they decided to refund me $$ for both units plus shipping, and sent me a PP return address label ! Kudos to Amazon for the refund, even tho their return policy is only one month. Also had a new front motor mount installed, and this fixed the annoying front bumping/rattle noise.
Again, MANY THANKS to "wusty" for this thread. This forum has been an invaluable source of information for me in my short (8 month) ownership of my 2004 Acura TL. B
Again, MANY THANKS to "wusty" for this thread. This forum has been an invaluable source of information for me in my short (8 month) ownership of my 2004 Acura TL. B
03-14-2019, 01:51 PM
#734
Instructor
Update ! Just got my car back today and am happy to report that my problem has been solved/fixed. Turns out the black switch was cracked (one was black & one gray). Just got off the phone with Amazon and after a LONG explanation of my problem with the SIMS switches (bought back in October) they decided to refund me $$ for both units plus shipping, and sent me a PP return address label ! Kudos to Amazon for the refund, even tho their return policy is only one month. Also had a new front motor mount installed, and this fixed the annoying front bumping/rattle noise.
Again, MANY THANKS to "wusty" for this thread. This forum has been an invaluable source of information for me in my short (8 month) ownership of my 2004 Acura TL. B
Again, MANY THANKS to "wusty" for this thread. This forum has been an invaluable source of information for me in my short (8 month) ownership of my 2004 Acura TL. B
Going by the original posters's part #, these switches are showing up as 'oil pressure switches' when searching online.
Materials needed:
x1 3rd Gear Pressure Switch (28600-P7Z-003)
x1 4th Gear Pressure Switch (28600-P7W-003)
x2 sealing gasket (90471-PW7-A00)
x1 brake cleaner (to wash away residual AT fluid)
03-14-2019, 04:55 PM
#736
Senior Moderator
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mazen222 (03-25-2019)
03-16-2019, 05:12 PM
#737
Advanced
donkiboy, yes I reordered both switches from OEMAcuraParts.com $126 delivered. And yes they call them oil pressure switches. I ordered #28600 RAY 013 & #28610 RKE 004, when they came in, the RKE one had a part # change. Call them to check and they confirmed I had correct switches. Their still functioning just fine ! Make sure you order them from site mentioned. B
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donkiboy (03-18-2019)
03-18-2019, 10:25 AM
#738
Instructor
donkiboy, yes I reordered both switches from OEMAcuraParts.com $126 delivered. And yes they call them oil pressure switches. I ordered #28600 RAY 013 & #28610 RKE 004, when they came in, the RKE one had a part # change. Call them to check and they confirmed I had correct switches. Their still functioning just fine ! Make sure you order them from site mentioned. B
04-02-2019, 11:12 AM
#739
Instructor
I just got done replacing both pressure switches and here are my impressions.
- Up shifts are smoother, especially in manual mode
- There is less jerkiness when downshifting in manually and the downshifts seem to happen quicker
- Only got small amount of oil drip on one of the switches, the other switch was bone dry
- Up shifts are smoother, especially in manual mode
- There is less jerkiness when downshifting in manually and the downshifts seem to happen quicker
- Only got small amount of oil drip on one of the switches, the other switch was bone dry
06-27-2019, 08:07 AM
#740
Burning Brakes
So...
I'm wondering if there is a standard interval for changing these switches? My car went 155k on the original ones - the trans was shuddering along with dirty fluid back then. I replaced the switches and fluid, and the trans has been good as new - now I'm at ~210k.
I'm getting some harder shifts now, but I'm near certain it's due to the (original) transmission mounts. Either way, it got me wondering if there is a standard replacement interval, considering it's been nearly 60k on these switches.
I'm wondering if there is a standard interval for changing these switches? My car went 155k on the original ones - the trans was shuddering along with dirty fluid back then. I replaced the switches and fluid, and the trans has been good as new - now I'm at ~210k.
I'm getting some harder shifts now, but I'm near certain it's due to the (original) transmission mounts. Either way, it got me wondering if there is a standard replacement interval, considering it's been nearly 60k on these switches.
06-27-2019, 10:20 AM
#741
Senior Moderator
Good time to replace them now then if you're experiencing issues 
Some people have gone as far as replaced every 30K
Some people have gone as far as replaced every 30K
06-27-2019, 10:35 AM
#742
Burning Brakes
Thanks for the info - I'll definitely put an order in for new switches, maybe even a new trans filter too, for the hell of it.
07-11-2019, 03:21 PM
#743
I have a 05 TL and I'm confused about the part numbers. Should I order 28600 RAY 013 & #28610 RKE 004 or 28600-P7W-003 & 28600-P7Z-003.
oemacuraparts is listing 28600-P7W-003 & 28600-P7Z-003 as the correct part number. Thanks
oemacuraparts is listing 28600-P7W-003 & 28600-P7Z-003 as the correct part number. Thanks
07-11-2019, 03:37 PM
#744
Burning Brakes
These are the updated part numbers. The numbers have changed over the years:
Third gear pressure switch: 28610-RKE-004
Fourth gear pressure switch: 28600-RKE-004
Third gear pressure switch: 28610-RKE-004
Replaces: 28610-RAY-003, 28610-RAY-013
Fourth gear pressure switch: 28600-RKE-004
Replaces: 28600-RAY-003, 28600-RAY013
07-11-2019, 04:10 PM
#745
Thanks. sorry for the confusion.
05-30-2020, 09:26 AM
#747
Burning Brakes
Were they purchased from an OEM Acura distributor? With these items, I would never again take a chance. I thought I was buying genuine Honda parts from eBay (they were priced lower), and my transmission gave me a lot of issues until I swapped the pressure switches with another set from Delray Acura. Even though I thought I had OEM parts, somebody tried ripping me off and it worked. 🙄
I wrote about my experience on one of these threads, so let me know if you want to see it. The packaging even said the Honda part number on it, but it wasn’t a true OEM part.
I wrote about my experience on one of these threads, so let me know if you want to see it. The packaging even said the Honda part number on it, but it wasn’t a true OEM part.
07-10-2020, 07:03 PM
#748
5th Gear
Join Date: Dec 2017
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09-18-2020, 09:25 AM
#750
sorry to post on such an old thread, but would replacing the pressure switches help some poor 2-3 shift quality on my 04? I find in very light acceleration ie in a traffic jam or residential area, tbere is a delay and the revs hang a bit before it shifts very quickly into 3rd . I find if I have to release the throttle before shifting, it shifts quite harsh and can clunk when doing so. Half throttle and heavy acceleration is ok but still not as smooth as all of the other gears. I have done a 3x3 fluid change in the spring so fluid basically fresh. Resetting the trans doesn't seem to make much different, and acts the same whether in D or M
09-18-2020, 09:34 AM
#751
Racer
sorry to post on such an old thread, but would replacing the pressure switches help some poor 2-3 shift quality on my 04? I find in very light acceleration ie in a traffic jam or residential area, tbere is a delay and the revs hang a bit before it shifts very quickly into 3rd . I find if I have to release the throttle before shifting, it shifts quite harsh and can clunk when doing so. Half throttle and heavy acceleration is ok but still not as smooth as all of the other gears. I have done a 3x3 fluid change in the spring so fluid basically fresh. Resetting the trans doesn't seem to make much different, and acts the same whether in D or M
09-20-2020, 10:35 AM
#753
so just to confirm, the correct part numbers are now 28610-rke-004 and 28600-rke-004 for an 04-06 now? I'll order new switches tomorrow and give it a shot. I will also try doing a single drain and refill, since I removed the banjo bolt attempting the filter change and lost a little bit of fluid. Still seems to be ok on the dipstick but I also have a hard time reading it since the fluid is still clean. Would be nice if the fill range was knurled or something
09-29-2020, 10:31 PM
#754
Well I changed switches, and I was able to change the filter by removing the filter housing from the trans and clamping onto the rounded bolt for dear life. The 2-3 shift was still firmer than the others but still a decent improvement and not really jerky, and got better as I was driving, especially in scenarios where it would want to do a harsh shift. Very happy with the results!
05-11-2021, 02:41 AM
#758
Need for Speed
Total switches?
So exactly how many pressure switches does the 06 TL really have? I'm guessing 5 since it's a 5 speed auto?
Since there is no formal guide other than the one in the service manual, I decided to document the replacement of my 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches.
For the record, my transmission has about 35,xxx miles at the time and I am the first owner. The shift quality is decent, I haven't noticed anything unusual other than 3rd gear holding on steep inclines under load. I just recently did a 1x1 drain/refill of the transmission fluid at an Acura dealer as well (about 1K miles ago prior).
Materials needed:
x1 3rd Gear Pressure Switch (28600-P7Z-003)
x1 4th Gear Pressure Switch (28600-P7W-003)
x2 sealing gasket (90471-PW7-A00)
x1 brake cleaner (to wash away residual AT fluid)
Tools required:
10mm wrench
22mm wrench
flathead screwdriver
lift (or jackstands)
On to the pictures.
Attachment 54646
Attachment 54647
I brought my car to my friend's shop (where he did the Accord foglight install). the car was raised and immediately, you will have access to one of the switches. You first undo the two 10mm bolts that hold a shroud, and then unplug the two connectors just so that you can swing the shroud out of the way:
Attachment 54648
to see which bolts im talking about, see this pic from e30cabrio:
Attachment 54649
that open hole in the middle of the pic is for one of the bolts. the TL has two holding that shroud.
the other switch is visible once you remove part of the splash cover along the inner fenderwall. this is what you should see:
Attachment 54650
You will need a 22mm wrench to unscrew each switch from their location. once you got them loose, unscrew by hand. unplug the connectors as you go and reconnect them once you put everything back. I suggest doing one sensor at a time.
Attachment 54651
Now for the details.
I noticed that the transmission housing has moulds on it that actually tell you which is which. Now, those who may know which switch is which may have no problem, but in the event you forgot (like me), one way to determine which goes where is by looking for these indicators, see below:
Attachment 54652
The amount of fluid that drips out is not much, but to get a sense what to expect, I took a shot:
Attachment 54653
You will need to use the brake cleaner to remove the residue of the AT fluid on the parts of the suspension. depending on how much got out and where, you can just spray liberally:
Attachment 54654
Finally a pic of the switches I replaced. 3rd gear on the left, 4th gear on the right.
Attachment 54655
Driving Impressions
Immediately after having these put in, I did notice an improvement of the car's shifting habits. I can't really quantify it much, but the shift from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th now happen much quicker. Put it in another way, they arent as "sloppy" as before. Even after applying load and a couple of WOTs, they are just noticeably different. Frankly it feels like Im driving a brand new car.
I would definitely recommend this as a Preventive Maintenance item. I likely will do it in around 70K miles just to keep the 35K mile mark I set. for the low cost and ease (even though I personally didnt do it), I think it is a worthwhile investment, along with doing the drain/refill procedure for the 3G TL AT transmission.
thanks to I hate cars for starting the transmission thread and credit goes to those that provided the part numbers as well as e30cabrio for one of his reference pics.
For the record, my transmission has about 35,xxx miles at the time and I am the first owner. The shift quality is decent, I haven't noticed anything unusual other than 3rd gear holding on steep inclines under load. I just recently did a 1x1 drain/refill of the transmission fluid at an Acura dealer as well (about 1K miles ago prior).
Materials needed:
x1 3rd Gear Pressure Switch (28600-P7Z-003)
x1 4th Gear Pressure Switch (28600-P7W-003)
x2 sealing gasket (90471-PW7-A00)
x1 brake cleaner (to wash away residual AT fluid)
Tools required:
10mm wrench
22mm wrench
flathead screwdriver
lift (or jackstands)
On to the pictures.
Attachment 54646
Attachment 54647
I brought my car to my friend's shop (where he did the Accord foglight install). the car was raised and immediately, you will have access to one of the switches. You first undo the two 10mm bolts that hold a shroud, and then unplug the two connectors just so that you can swing the shroud out of the way:
Attachment 54648
to see which bolts im talking about, see this pic from e30cabrio:
Attachment 54649
that open hole in the middle of the pic is for one of the bolts. the TL has two holding that shroud.
the other switch is visible once you remove part of the splash cover along the inner fenderwall. this is what you should see:
Attachment 54650
You will need a 22mm wrench to unscrew each switch from their location. once you got them loose, unscrew by hand. unplug the connectors as you go and reconnect them once you put everything back. I suggest doing one sensor at a time.
Attachment 54651
Now for the details.
I noticed that the transmission housing has moulds on it that actually tell you which is which. Now, those who may know which switch is which may have no problem, but in the event you forgot (like me), one way to determine which goes where is by looking for these indicators, see below:
Attachment 54652
The amount of fluid that drips out is not much, but to get a sense what to expect, I took a shot:
Attachment 54653
You will need to use the brake cleaner to remove the residue of the AT fluid on the parts of the suspension. depending on how much got out and where, you can just spray liberally:
Attachment 54654
Finally a pic of the switches I replaced. 3rd gear on the left, 4th gear on the right.
Attachment 54655
Driving Impressions
Immediately after having these put in, I did notice an improvement of the car's shifting habits. I can't really quantify it much, but the shift from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th now happen much quicker. Put it in another way, they arent as "sloppy" as before. Even after applying load and a couple of WOTs, they are just noticeably different. Frankly it feels like Im driving a brand new car.
I would definitely recommend this as a Preventive Maintenance item. I likely will do it in around 70K miles just to keep the 35K mile mark I set. for the low cost and ease (even though I personally didnt do it), I think it is a worthwhile investment, along with doing the drain/refill procedure for the 3G TL AT transmission.
thanks to I hate cars for starting the transmission thread and credit goes to those that provided the part numbers as well as e30cabrio for one of his reference pics.
05-11-2021, 06:41 AM
#759
Racer
05-11-2021, 08:04 AM
#760
Need for Speed