Before you leave see if you can scratch the coating with a key. The one I recommended had to be taken off with a die grinder.. doesn’t scratch very easily

 

^
Remember to only use 180 ml or 6.08652 U.S. fluid ounces of GM S/C'er oil.
Make sure to thoroughly clean ALL mating surfaces needing a reseal with lacquer thinner before applying the Loctite 548.
If possible, after torqueing all fasteners, do not fill the oil reservoir for at least 24 hours. Leave the oil res. plug open to allow air circulation. The 548 is capable of 'curing' anaerobically; however, if you add the S/C'er oil before it has cured sufficiently, any soft 'globs' squeezed out during the reseal could potentially mix with the oil. Whether that would cause a problem or not, I'm not sure; but, better safe than sorry.

 

It shouldn't scratch at all? or just not chip when keyed?

I will follow your instructions to a tee! Can I use a substitute instead of laquer thinner? Rubbing alcohol?

 

Saving4aTL
I.V. Alchohol prep pads would probably suffice; however, Denatured alcohol would be better.
As long as the solvent does not leave an oily residue that would impede the sealing capabilities of the Loctite 548. Strong oil cutting solvents, like Lacquer thinner, are best because they are a blended mixture of two or more solvents. Acetone, amyl or ethyl acetate, keotone and toluene are common ingredients in lacquer thinners.

 

You should always have lacquer thinner and brake cleaner on hand......

I buy brake cleaner by the gallon.

 

Ill use the bottle of brake cleaner from my last brake job.

Asianboi said the ceramic shouldn't scratch when keyed? I'm paying $60 per high flow cat. The shop is third world looking but has been in business since the 1980s.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcFZ0BLv-9M

http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/

 

Sexy!

 

This is what happened when I scratched it with my key. What do you think?

 

looks like it was just painted. Does it look like bare metal in that area that you scratched?

 

^^
Saving4aTL, just a suggestion. If you are skeptical and want to 'test' to see if the 'coating shop' ceramic coated your exhaust parts black versus just 'powder coated' them black, try and replicate the 'torch' test depicted in the provided video above, that is if you happen to have a torch handy.

In addition, you could also spray a liberal amount of that 'brake clean' solvent on a rag and rub vigorously, on the area you scratched, to see if it dissolves/removes the coating they applied. Also look at the invoice and see if they put a 'brand name' to the coating they say was applied, if so, then just google it to see what comes up.

 

Looks like they did a poor job. Notice how there is not bare metal exposed where the gaskets/flanges will be placed. This means they did not cover it up and as the paint/coating wears away around the flanges, it will leave you vulnerable to exhaust leaks. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but there should NOT be any coating on the interior of the pipes. From the pics you took it looks they they just hung 'em up and sprayed 'em with no masking.

 

 

 

worst case if it is he can always take an angle grinder to the mating surface.

 

Wouldn't that make it worse?

 

If the coating is made to withstand 2000F, then I think it will be fine with a gasket. It will keep the mated surface cooler.

 

^
This guy has a gasket set with nuts/bolts; however, I'm not sure if you can utilize it?

https://www.rv6-p.com/gasket-set.html

 

 

^

It was late, my mistake. I linked the gasket set I used for my 2G CL-S6. Your stuff is correct; however, he has that as well:

https://www.rv6-p.com/hardware/

 

Did the coating get on the honeycomb inside the converter?

 

Fortunately not. They masked off honeycombs.

 

Quick update guys:

- HFPCs are installed. I don't notice any difference in sound except a throater roar at 4k+ RPM.
The engine bay is noticeably cooler with the ceramic on the cats. I dont hear the drone/rasp I've been reading about.

- This weekend will be Timing belt/Water pump maintenance. x10 quarts Redline hightemp ATF and two step colder Denso plugs are ready to go in as soon as the S/C is.

I still waiting on CT engineering or Heeltoe to sell me the radiator hose and alternator/pulley bracket so I can mount the Supercharger. Also going to order a B&M transmission cooler this week

Am I missing anything?

 

Is it too early to probe about the MP90?

I read a good thread on here about a member doing this. Though he never completed it and gave little details through out.

 

Any reason for the Trans Cooler? Have you measured trans temps to see if it's needed? - I have a tow vehicle with an older automatic, uses a transcooler in the radiator, and doesn't have any trans temp issues. The thing that helps the most to reduce ATF heat is the Torque Converter Lock-UP. Auto TL's have engine coolant to ATF cooler already, it's using the cold side of the radiator to cool the ATF fluid. My two cents are to measure temp to see if you an have issue first.

 

 

I have the CT Supercharge kit installed on my 6mt type s and make over 300whp with only 2psi. My serpentine belt just shredded, not sure the cause, and and messed everything up. Searching for belt size brought me here. Looks like your still in the process on yours. Be sure to get a new belt if you're using a used one.

 

 

 

So, what's the hold up here?

 

He was never gonna do it

 

 

Don't give up...

 

probably at an oven fired pizza place, chowing down.

 

Hey guys, I've been waiting a few weeks for CT Engineering to get the mount and radiator pipe for the Supercharger. Any ideas?
Everything else is ready for install, down to the fluids.

I'm happy with the results I have seen from just the bolt-on mods. When going WOT at 50mph, its decently quick(with only me on the car).

The ATLP exhaust sounds amazing, especially when going through a tunnel. I'm imagining what it will sound like with the whine!

 

Saving4aTL, just to clarify. Have you actually had CT Engineering contact/interact with you regarding your ordered parts lately?

If so, what is it they are telling you?

The only reason I ask is that two other members (a Bogey; bkrupp), whom are in a similar situation as you, have S/C'er kits needing various pieces to complete them and have had a hard time getting CT-E to respond.

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...roject-966540/

Thanks in advance.

 

I did mention the same thing a few times in this thread. Comptech doesn't keep parts in stock. The blower isn't made by them. I learned this the hard way when my blower went in for repairs. I stress with everyone that buys a used kit with missing parts, to contact comptech immediately to see if parts can be obtained. I say the same thing when member ask me about going boosted and looking at used kits.

 

Yeah, I'm talking more in regards to the ancillary stuff like the alternator/blower bracket, the blower brace/hardware connection at the transmission lift bracket, the PS reservoir bracket, coolant hose, ESM et al.

 

 

You would probably have a better chance having a metal shop fab some of those brackets for you, I had a shop fab the alternator bracket for me. Like what people have said, CT doesn't carry most of those parts in stock. I believe when I requested the radiator hose, it was made in Germany so it would have taken like a few months to get that in, Eff..that!