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This install was more difficult than I anticipated. There were clearance issues. The transmission is different in the 07-08 T, so mine didn’t fit and I had to cut it to make er’ fit. The radiator hoses had to be carefully selected for the proper 90 degree angles. I had to cut 1.25” galvanized piping for the coupling.
The most difficult cult part is the starter positive bolt, which sits higher on the 07-08 and is impossible to install without trimming the bolt to a nub. This weekend I will have to use a 400/60 solder gun, liquid flux and silver solder and solder the positive he wore to the nub. I also bought liquid electrical tape to paste onto the underbelly of the supercharger. A 1/8 inch rubber gasket will sit between the starter bolt nub and the S/C underbelly to make sure electricity going to the starter does not transfer to the S/C.
i am going to use my stick alternator bracket and have pacific metal fab an extension to make it have two bolt holes instead of one.
Still A lot of work ahead. S/C needs to be removed. Alternator pulley bracket needs to be installed. Need to shave down the rest of the starter terminal bolt and solder the wire to the flat metal. Need to heavily insulate the starter bolt so that the electricity does not arc onto the S/C. Need to drain and fill the radiator again. Move the power steering pulley hose away from S/C pulley. Reinstall all components and upload the DomGSR’s Hondata S/C map. Ignition and testing begins!
Was that type s a manual or auto? Looked like a close race, you currently have PCDs and exhaust on the car? SC install looking good so far, good luck with the little issues
I’m going to fab a metal plate to keep it away from the P/S hose. My issue is the new outlet price that comes out from the P/S module. Is this a critical part? It’s the one that goes travels under the serpentine belt.
i have a 2008 auto. I have rv6 high flow precats.
im planning to make two tunes. One For standard 92 octane fuel, and another for 100 octane for the track.
My issue is the new outlet price that comes out from the P/S module. Is this a critical part? It’s the one that goes travels under the serpentine belt.
I'm not sure what you mean by 'outlet price'?
If you have not done so already, reference Step#11 on the link below. It shows the P/S adapter that was provided by CT Engineering to divert the P/S hose to the side, rather than 'up' as it is now.
56123-PVF-A01 ($4.37) is the part number for the P/S inlet for an '03 CLS, which points to the side. This is what you need to keep that P/S hose away from the drive belt.
When I saw the one provided by CTE on the install instructions for the TL, and how it pointed sideways, I went out and looked at the one on my car and it was pointing sideways as well. So I thought I would see what the Part #'s looked like, and they looked similar; therefore, the possibility of it working on your car, at this point in your install, seemed reasonable. All that was left was presenting my case and your gamble of $4.37+shipping.
Hopefully, it works and you'll have one less issue to work around.
I’m half way through the water/meth install. I ran the hose front he truck/under the car/into engine bay. Drilled a hole in the firewall to connect the boost hose to the control unit under the dash. I T’d into the supercharger wastegate boost line so that the control unit gets boost levels. The wires were ran through the interior on the drivers side. You will only have enough wiring to run along the side of the car where you choose your control unit to be on.
I still have to:
- Wiring in the trunk
- Mount the pump
- Mount the fuel reservior
- Mount my wife
I will also be installing the transmission cooler. I believe it’s a must if you choose to boost our heatsoak loving cars. Does anyone have a good install thread for the 2007-2008 Acura TL?
I’ve read all I can on it and still don’t know where to tap into the tranny lines due to pictures not showing up on the install threads.
Clearly...
I was always tempted to SC, or at the very least see how much of a difference it made in enjoying the drive...not even WOT, just around town where you do most of your driving anyway.
Looks like a hoot.
Ya it’s a lot of fun, a nice noise maker. The gains are there, but I would like to do the max to a 3.2 j series on a boosted application. I’m still doing research. I may buy Andy’s stage 3.5 kit.
First, ill keep it at 425whp. Then build the motor for 550-570whp. From my calculation, this is achievable with a 3.2l 5AT.
The intake should be here Monday. I used zip ties to temporarily tie the hose out da way.
Oh, OK. So there is still a chance. I saw the zip ties, nice improvisation.
Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
Zeta, I’m eyeballing the Stage 3.5 kit from Gerzand...
Nice!
Try this one out for a month or two. I bet you won't be able to keep your foot off the accelerator, hehe. Car-part.com has plenty of 2008 3.2's available in the northwest should you need one.
If I would go 6mt I’ll get the 07-08 type S. I like their transmissions and the updated Interior/Exterior. Perhaps I’ll build this motor up and eventually get a 6mt and transfer everything. I’d like to buy a 3.5l motor and slowly build it for boost.
I love the 3g, no other car has held my enthusiasm like this one( besides the turbo 98 civic EX when I was 19).
im going to rid this s/c and keep it even if I purchase the stage 3.5. Everything is modded for it already. If I do someday get a 6mt type S, I can use my current cat with the CT S/C as a daily.
Is this too much boost? When tuning began It was difficult to get over 3.6 psi. At this point I’ve seen 9.4psi at the end of the rpm range at WOT on 3rd gear pulls.
How much hp/tq could I be making with this amount of boost?
Another thing to consider when trying to figure out net horsepower from a supercharged car is perform a rough gross power calculation (rated horsepower (258) times the net overboost (14.9+9.1)/14.9, or said another way, 258 * 1.61 = 415 hp), LESS the draw of the supercharger (I don't know the draw of the unit in this thread, but I've seen published numbers as high as 40-60 HP for such units). Said another way, your engine may well be putting out say 415 hp and yet at the crank you are only netting out to something like 355 hp, and given the slushbox transmission in this car, the power to the wheels will be even less, maybe only as high as 310 or 320.
I read this S/C gives 40-60whp, at 3.5-5psi. But what about 9.4psi? 100whp?
Using Hondata, I calculated that I went from 70-100 in 5.87 seconds. That’s just a hair faster than the 6.0 second 2007 type-s.
Though its still in the tuning process. I’m installing a DW65c fuel pump this week, due to having intermittent drop in power at high rpms. It feels like it isn’t accelerating, but my car is whining hard. Not sure if that will fix it. It could be my 1 step colder spark plugs. Should I be using iridium or copper plugs?
Getting Michelin pilot sport PS 4s his Friday from Costco. It will help my quarter mile.
My calculations above were for 9.1 psi over MSL; they yielded a 157 HP bump in the gross power (258) of the engine, however, because this is a supercharger application you'll never see all of that new power. Given the supercharger will draw back a significant percentage of that increase, a net increase of 100 HP is certainly possible.
Though it would solve your problem.
nice improvisation.
