Acura TL Builder's Ultimate Boost Thread
^
Remember to only use 180 ml or 6.08652 U.S. fluid ounces of GM S/C'er oil.
Make sure to thoroughly clean ALL mating surfaces needing a reseal with lacquer thinner before applying the Loctite 548.
If possible, after torqueing all fasteners, do not fill the oil reservoir for at least 24 hours. Leave the oil res. plug open to allow air circulation. The 548 is capable of 'curing' anaerobically; however, if you add the S/C'er oil before it has cured sufficiently, any soft 'globs' squeezed out during the reseal could potentially mix with the oil.
Whether that would cause a problem or not, I'm not sure; but, better safe than sorry.
Remember to only use 180 ml or 6.08652 U.S. fluid ounces of GM S/C'er oil.
Make sure to thoroughly clean ALL mating surfaces needing a reseal with lacquer thinner before applying the Loctite 548.
If possible, after torqueing all fasteners, do not fill the oil reservoir for at least 24 hours. Leave the oil res. plug open to allow air circulation. The 548 is capable of 'curing' anaerobically; however, if you add the S/C'er oil before it has cured sufficiently, any soft 'globs' squeezed out during the reseal could potentially mix with the oil.
Whether that would cause a problem or not, I'm not sure; but, better safe than sorry.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 4,310
Likes: 860
From: At the Track
^
Remember to only use 180 ml or 6.08652 U.S. fluid ounces of GM S/C'er oil.
Make sure to thoroughly clean ALL mating surfaces needing a reseal with lacquer thinner before applying the Loctite 548.
If possible, after torqueing all fasteners, do not fill the oil reservoir for at least 24 hours. Leave the oil res. plug open to allow air circulation. The 548 is capable of 'curing' anaerobically; however, if you add the S/C'er oil before it has cured sufficiently, any soft 'globs' squeezed out during the reseal could potentially mix with the oil. Whether that would cause a problem or not, I'm not sure; but, better safe than sorry.
Remember to only use 180 ml or 6.08652 U.S. fluid ounces of GM S/C'er oil.
Make sure to thoroughly clean ALL mating surfaces needing a reseal with lacquer thinner before applying the Loctite 548.
If possible, after torqueing all fasteners, do not fill the oil reservoir for at least 24 hours. Leave the oil res. plug open to allow air circulation. The 548 is capable of 'curing' anaerobically; however, if you add the S/C'er oil before it has cured sufficiently, any soft 'globs' squeezed out during the reseal could potentially mix with the oil.
Whether that would cause a problem or not, I'm not sure; but, better safe than sorry.
Saving4aTLI.V. Alchohol prep pads would probably suffice; however, Denatured alcohol would be better.
As long as the solvent does not leave an oily residue that would impede the sealing capabilities of the Loctite 548. Strong oil cutting solvents, like Lacquer thinner, are best because they are a blended mixture of two or more solvents. Acetone, amyl or ethyl acetate, keotone and toluene are common ingredients in lacquer thinners.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 4,310
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From: At the Track
Ill use the bottle of brake cleaner from my last brake job.
Asianboi said the ceramic shouldn't scratch when keyed? I'm paying $60 per high flow cat. The shop is third world looking but has been in business since the 1980s.
Asianboi said the ceramic shouldn't scratch when keyed? I'm paying $60 per high flow cat. The shop is third world looking but has been in business since the 1980s.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; Jan 29, 2018 at 02:58 PM.
Last edited by thisaznboi88; Jan 30, 2018 at 02:08 AM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: May 2007
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From: At the Track
Back from the ceramic shop!
Asianboi, that shop looks like they do great work, but it's a bit too expensive for me. #not10%in'
Asianboi, that shop looks like they do great work, but it's a bit too expensive for me. #not10%in'
^^
Saving4aTL, just a suggestion. If you are skeptical and want to 'test' to see if the 'coating shop' ceramic coated your exhaust parts black versus just 'powder coated' them black, try and replicate the 'torch' test depicted in the provided video above, that is if you happen to have a torch handy.
In addition, you could also spray a liberal amount of that 'brake clean' solvent on a rag and rub vigorously, on the area you scratched, to see if it dissolves/removes the coating they applied. Also look at the invoice and see if they put a 'brand name' to the coating they say was applied, if so, then just google it to see what comes up.
Saving4aTL, just a suggestion. If you are skeptical and want to 'test' to see if the 'coating shop' ceramic coated your exhaust parts black versus just 'powder coated' them black, try and replicate the 'torch' test depicted in the provided video above, that is if you happen to have a torch handy.
In addition, you could also spray a liberal amount of that 'brake clean' solvent on a rag and rub vigorously, on the area you scratched, to see if it dissolves/removes the coating they applied. Also look at the invoice and see if they put a 'brand name' to the coating they say was applied, if so, then just google it to see what comes up.
Late to the 3G Party
Joined: Mar 2016
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Looks like they did a poor job. Notice how there is not bare metal exposed where the gaskets/flanges will be placed. This means they did not cover it up and as the paint/coating wears away around the flanges, it will leave you vulnerable to exhaust leaks. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but there should NOT be any coating on the interior of the pipes. From the pics you took it looks they they just hung 'em up and sprayed 'em with no masking.
Last edited by mb.3g; Jan 30, 2018 at 12:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: At the Track
I'll do the torch test and this Saturday and post a video.
mdnborg, from questioning the owner and looking at examples in the shop. I was informed that they coat the entire inner and outer portions of the pipe. If there is a vulnerable area like cat honeycomb, they only coat up to the cat material.
It doesn't look spray painted black, it feels like a thick-ish coating. When I scratched it with my key, the scrapes just became gray but did not go down to the metal. Seems like a good job, but we will see this Saturday.
mdnborg, from questioning the owner and looking at examples in the shop. I was informed that they coat the entire inner and outer portions of the pipe. If there is a vulnerable area like cat honeycomb, they only coat up to the cat material.
It doesn't look spray painted black, it feels like a thick-ish coating. When I scratched it with my key, the scrapes just became gray but did not go down to the metal. Seems like a good job, but we will see this Saturday.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; Jan 30, 2018 at 02:38 PM.
If it goes grey it should be okay. But they should have masked off the flanges. Now you have an imperfect mating surface. Also does the nut still go on the studs?
^
This guy has a gasket set with nuts/bolts; however, I'm not sure if you can utilize it?
https://www.rv6-p.com/gasket-set.html
This guy has a gasket set with nuts/bolts; however, I'm not sure if you can utilize it?
https://www.rv6-p.com/gasket-set.html
^
It was late, my mistake. I linked the gasket set I used for my 2G CL-S6. Your stuff is correct; however, he has that as well:
https://www.rv6-p.com/hardware/
It was late, my mistake. I linked the gasket set I used for my 2G CL-S6. Your stuff is correct; however, he has that as well:
https://www.rv6-p.com/hardware/
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: May 2007
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From: At the Track
Quick update guys:
- HFPCs are installed. I don't notice any difference in sound except a throater roar at 4k+ RPM.
The engine bay is noticeably cooler with the ceramic on the cats. I dont hear the drone/rasp I've been reading about.
- This weekend will be Timing belt/Water pump maintenance. x10 quarts Redline hightemp ATF and two step colder Denso plugs are ready to go in as soon as the S/C is.
I still waiting on CT engineering or Heeltoe to sell me the radiator hose and alternator/pulley bracket so I can mount the Supercharger. Also going to order a B&M transmission cooler this week
Am I missing anything?
- HFPCs are installed. I don't notice any difference in sound except a throater roar at 4k+ RPM.
The engine bay is noticeably cooler with the ceramic on the cats. I dont hear the drone/rasp I've been reading about.
- This weekend will be Timing belt/Water pump maintenance. x10 quarts Redline hightemp ATF and two step colder Denso plugs are ready to go in as soon as the S/C is.
I still waiting on CT engineering or Heeltoe to sell me the radiator hose and alternator/pulley bracket so I can mount the Supercharger. Also going to order a B&M transmission cooler this week
Am I missing anything?
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; Feb 5, 2018 at 10:22 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: SE Wisconsin
- This weekend will be Timing belt/Water pump maintenance. x10 quarts Redline hightemp ATF and two step colder Denso plugs are ready to go in as soon as the S/C is.
I still waiting on CT engineering or Heeltoe to sell me the radiator hose and alternator/pulley bracket so I can mount the Supercharger. Also going to order a B&M transmission cooler this week
Am I missing anything?
Last edited by 6spd-GERCO; Feb 7, 2018 at 07:47 AM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: May 2007
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From: At the Track
Good idea, I will gauge the temps first.
Ive got a bit of exhaust drone from 2k-3k RPM. Going to get rid of that by installing a pair of these. What do you think?
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; Feb 7, 2018 at 07:41 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2011
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I have the CT Supercharge kit installed on my 6mt type s and make over 300whp with only 2psi. My serpentine belt just shredded, not sure the cause, and and messed everything up. Searching for belt size brought me here. Looks like your still in the process on yours. Be sure to get a new belt if you're using a used one.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: May 2007
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From: At the Track
I have the CT Supercharge kit installed on my 6mt type s and make over 300whp with only 2psi. My serpentine belt just shredded, not sure the cause, and and messed everything up. Searching for belt size brought me here. Looks like your still in the process on yours. Be sure to get a new belt if you're using a used one.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: At the Track
Hey guys, I've been waiting a few weeks for CT Engineering to get the mount and radiator pipe for the Supercharger. Any ideas?
Everything else is ready for install, down to the fluids.
I'm happy with the results I have seen from just the bolt-on mods. When going WOT at 50mph, its decently quick(with only me on the car).
The ATLP exhaust sounds amazing, especially when going through a tunnel. I'm imagining what it will sound like with the whine!
Everything else is ready for install, down to the fluids.
I'm happy with the results I have seen from just the bolt-on mods. When going WOT at 50mph, its decently quick(with only me on the car).
The ATLP exhaust sounds amazing, especially when going through a tunnel. I'm imagining what it will sound like with the whine!
If so, what is it they are telling you?
The only reason I ask is that two other members (a Bogey; bkrupp), whom are in a similar situation as you, have S/C'er kits needing various pieces to complete them and have had a hard time getting CT-E to respond.
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...roject-966540/
Thanks in advance.
I did mention the same thing a few times in this thread. Comptech doesn't keep parts in stock. The blower isn't made by them. I learned this the hard way when my blower went in for repairs. I stress with everyone that buys a used kit with missing parts, to contact comptech immediately to see if parts can be obtained. I say the same thing when member ask me about going boosted and looking at used kits.
Yeah, I'm talking more in regards to the ancillary stuff like the alternator/blower bracket, the blower brace/hardware connection at the transmission lift bracket, the PS reservoir bracket, coolant hose, ESM et al.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: At the Track
It’s actually Marcus from heeltoe auto contacting them from my corner.
He says they informed him that the two parts are 1-2 weeks out as they don’t have them in stock.
I did call them a couple moons ago and Nate mentioned via phone and email that they had the two parts in stock. I have not had any success contacting them since then.
He says they informed him that the two parts are 1-2 weeks out as they don’t have them in stock.
I did call them a couple moons ago and Nate mentioned via phone and email that they had the two parts in stock. I have not had any success contacting them since then.
You would probably have a better chance having a metal shop fab some of those brackets for you, I had a shop fab the alternator bracket for me. Like what people have said, CT doesn't carry most of those parts in stock. I believe when I requested the radiator hose, it was made in Germany so it would have taken like a few months to get that in, Eff..that!