2018 Accord 2.0T dyno results
#121
Pro
It’s illegal in Ohio to leave your car warming up if you aren’t in it. I know I am breaking the law when I do it as I am when I’m speeding. I just hate driving in a freezing car.
Lol, as I said in another thread, since my daily commute is 6 miles, chances are the car will fall apart or I’ll die before the engine does.
Lol, as I said in another thread, since my daily commute is 6 miles, chances are the car will fall apart or I’ll die before the engine does.
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Shadow2056 (01-04-2018)
#122
Team Owner
Thread Starter
True story. Honda engines, even with just the most basic maintenance, will run forever. Your car will entirely rust away before that engine dies. I've seen cases of guys dumping whatever oil they had kicking around, into their engines. 0w-20? Sure. 10w-40? Sure. I've had [poor] friends mix gear oil with whatever other engine oil and dump it in I've seen guys go way past oil service intervals. I've seen guys have dirty air filters that were two years old and they had no intentions of replacing them, etc. And the engines just keep going. That's not to say they're not causing internal damage... but Honda engines are very well designed to take the abuse we throw at them. Especially their V6s. They are truly an appliance engine, and I don't mean that in a bad. They're built to last.
#123
Drifting
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Wow. This thread is all over the place. Didn't it start out as discussing the 2.0T vs the J V6? I have no strong opinion on the matter. I guess decreased weight on the front end would be good. But don't FI engines typically wear out faster than non-FI due to increased stress? And then you've got the reliability of the turbo to worry about. It's a consideration I'll probably take in the future. For now, I'll just stick with the V6.
As far as the warm up vs not argument, it's been very well established that:
1. Modern engines don't need to "warm up".
2. An engine creates more pollution when cold than hot, and that letting it idle results in a slower warm up than starting it up and going.
3. You're simply going to create more pollution and consume more fuel when letting the car "warm up"
I can't comment to increased engine wear when letting it idle vs not. It doesn't seem there's been significant reports of one causing more wear than the other. In that case, you might as well just start it and go and reduce pollution and fuel consumption. If you want to warm it up to make it more comfortable, that's your choice. I can't criticize, because I drive a TL rather than a Prius. But warming up a car to simply make it more comfortable while causing more pollution and fuel consumption seems to be pretty careless to me.
As far as the warm up vs not argument, it's been very well established that:
1. Modern engines don't need to "warm up".
2. An engine creates more pollution when cold than hot, and that letting it idle results in a slower warm up than starting it up and going.
3. You're simply going to create more pollution and consume more fuel when letting the car "warm up"
I can't comment to increased engine wear when letting it idle vs not. It doesn't seem there's been significant reports of one causing more wear than the other. In that case, you might as well just start it and go and reduce pollution and fuel consumption. If you want to warm it up to make it more comfortable, that's your choice. I can't criticize, because I drive a TL rather than a Prius. But warming up a car to simply make it more comfortable while causing more pollution and fuel consumption seems to be pretty careless to me.
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Shadow2056 (01-04-2018)
#124
Team Owner
It’s illegal in Ohio to leave your car warming up if you aren’t in it. I know I am breaking the law when I do it as I am when I’m speeding. I just hate driving in a freezing car.
Lol, as I said in another thread, since my daily commute is 6 miles, chances are the car will fall apart or I’ll die before the engine does.
Lol, as I said in another thread, since my daily commute is 6 miles, chances are the car will fall apart or I’ll die before the engine does.
By the car is somewhat warmed up, you could have gotten to your work already.
#125
Team Owner
True story. Honda engines, even with just the most basic maintenance, will run forever. Your car will entirely rust away before that engine dies. I've seen cases of guys dumping whatever oil they had kicking around, into their engines. 0w-20? Sure. 10w-40? Sure. I've had [poor] friends mix gear oil with whatever other engine oil and dump it in I've seen guys go way past oil service intervals. I've seen guys have dirty air filters that were two years old and they had no intentions of replacing them, etc. And the engines just keep going. That's not to say they're not causing internal damage... but Honda engines are very well designed to take the abuse we throw at them. Especially their V6s. They are truly an appliance engine, and I don't mean that in a bad. They're built to last.
#126
Fahrvergnügen'd
Wow. This thread is all over the place. Didn't it start out as discussing the 2.0T vs the J V6? I have no strong opinion on the matter. I guess decreased weight on the front end would be good. But don't FI engines typically wear out faster than non-FI due to increased stress? And then you've got the reliability of the turbo to worry about. It's a consideration I'll probably take in the future. For now, I'll just stick with the V6.
As far as the warm up vs not argument, it's been very well established that:
1. Modern engines don't need to "warm up".
2. An engine creates more pollution when cold than hot, and that letting it idle results in a slower warm up than starting it up and going.
3. You're simply going to create more pollution and consume more fuel when letting the car "warm up"
I can't comment to increased engine wear when letting it idle vs not. It doesn't seem there's been significant reports of one causing more wear than the other. In that case, you might as well just start it and go and reduce pollution and fuel consumption. If you want to warm it up to make it more comfortable, that's your choice. I can't criticize, because I drive a TL rather than a Prius. But warming up a car to simply make it more comfortable while causing more pollution and fuel consumption seems to be pretty careless to me.
As far as the warm up vs not argument, it's been very well established that:
1. Modern engines don't need to "warm up".
2. An engine creates more pollution when cold than hot, and that letting it idle results in a slower warm up than starting it up and going.
3. You're simply going to create more pollution and consume more fuel when letting the car "warm up"
I can't comment to increased engine wear when letting it idle vs not. It doesn't seem there's been significant reports of one causing more wear than the other. In that case, you might as well just start it and go and reduce pollution and fuel consumption. If you want to warm it up to make it more comfortable, that's your choice. I can't criticize, because I drive a TL rather than a Prius. But warming up a car to simply make it more comfortable while causing more pollution and fuel consumption seems to be pretty careless to me.
But, the fact that the 2.0T is turbocharged doesn't in and of itself mean it's inferior to a V6. Volkswagen's TDIs have done hundreds of thousands of miles on the original turbos.
#127
Banned
1. Modern engines don't need to "warm up".
#128
Ex-OEM King
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TacoBello (01-05-2018)
#129
Turd Polisher
iTrader: (1)
For the most part, VW uses Borgwarner turbochargers ...
With my personal experience, they were rock solid even being tuned for 50,000 of their 130,000 mile life.
With my personal experience, they were rock solid even being tuned for 50,000 of their 130,000 mile life.
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TacoBello (01-05-2018)
#130
Pro
Of course I could get to work by the time the car warms up. The point is not sitting in a cold car when it is 5 degrees Fahrenheit outside. I don't care at that point about air pollution. If I was, I would have bought a fit, or a smart car. Or a horse. LolI'm talking comfort. Btw, I'd love to have one of the new accords.
You are in LA. You don't have to worry about this polar vortex.
You are in LA. You don't have to worry about this polar vortex.
#131
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
Of course I could get to work by the time the car warms up. The point is not sitting in a cold car when it is 5 degrees Fahrenheit outside. I don't care at that point about air pollution. If I was, I would have bought a fit, or a smart car. Or a horse. LolI'm talking comfort. Btw, I'd love to have one of the new accords.
You are in LA. You don't have to worry about this polar vortex.
You are in LA. You don't have to worry about this polar vortex.
The problem with a horse is 10°F is about the lower limit for a non-feral horse (thinking BLM horses here). Our horses, even with their shaggy winter coats come in on cold days where the temperatures hover around the ten degree mark and they tend to be shivering. If there's high wind and/or precipitation, the temperature threshold is even higher.
#132
Team Owner
You sure about that? next time, time yourself how long it takes to get to Normal Operating Temp just from idling alone.
#133
Drifting
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Obviously there are the situations where your car may have been outside, coated in ice or whatever, and warming it up might actually help from a safety standpoint. But that's another subject.
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TacoBello (01-05-2018)
#135
Drifting
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A normal production FI engine like the 2.0T shouldn't start seeing internal engine issues any sooner than naturally aspirated ones. With that said, some things related to direct injection (which can happen on any engine with DI) will cause problems. And yes, a turbo usually doesn't last as long as the engine as a whole.
But, the fact that the 2.0T is turbocharged doesn't in and of itself mean it's inferior to a V6. Volkswagen's TDIs have done hundreds of thousands of miles on the original turbos.
But, the fact that the 2.0T is turbocharged doesn't in and of itself mean it's inferior to a V6. Volkswagen's TDIs have done hundreds of thousands of miles on the original turbos.
#137
Turd Polisher
iTrader: (1)
You've gotta be kidding me.
Coolant temperature for my vehicles take 5-10 minutes to hit operating temperature (Which is NOT oil temp) at 15C to 20C outside, this is for both my Fit & S4.
Oil temperatures usually take 15-20 minutes to hit full temperature depending on your oil capacity / viscosity.
Last edited by TylerT; 01-04-2018 at 03:33 PM.
#138
Banned
Few minutes to reach operating temperature at -25?
You've gotta be kidding me.
Coolant temperature for my vehicles take 5-10 minutes to hit operating temperature (Which is NOT oil temp) at 15C to 20C outside, this is for both my Fit & S4.
Oil temperatures usually take 15-20 minutes to hit full temperature depending on your oil capacity / viscosity.
You've gotta be kidding me.
Coolant temperature for my vehicles take 5-10 minutes to hit operating temperature (Which is NOT oil temp) at 15C to 20C outside, this is for both my Fit & S4.
Oil temperatures usually take 15-20 minutes to hit full temperature depending on your oil capacity / viscosity.
Sorry but according to my coolant temp indicator, it is typically 2-4m to get where the needle stays. Maybe 2-3 more at very cold temperature. Of course, my ScanGauge could be more accurate.
#139
Banned
#140
Team Owner
Not talking about the same thing again?
So what is it? It takes a few minutes to reach normal temp during idling or driving?
#141
#142
Team Owner
LOL we are so off topic.
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Shadow2056 (01-04-2018)
#144
Azine Jabroni
The only thing less interesting than a TLX right now is this remote starter conversation.
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oonowindoo (01-05-2018)
#145
AZ Community Team
Back to the Sport Accord, I find that it's available with both motors (1.5T and 2.0T) and 6MT really appealing.
One interesting note is the 6MT for the Sport 1.5/2.0 models have different gear and final drive ratios.
Like the 9G Accord Sport, wheel/tires slightly larger, brakes slightly larger and steering ratio quicker.
A sunroof on the 2.0T appeals to me along with the other extra features which are nice.
My main drawback is I don't like the exterior styling, I prefer the 9G Accord, the 10G looks more like a sized up Civic.
One interesting note is the 6MT for the Sport 1.5/2.0 models have different gear and final drive ratios.
Like the 9G Accord Sport, wheel/tires slightly larger, brakes slightly larger and steering ratio quicker.
A sunroof on the 2.0T appeals to me along with the other extra features which are nice.
My main drawback is I don't like the exterior styling, I prefer the 9G Accord, the 10G looks more like a sized up Civic.
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#146
Moderator
So, is the 6MT going to be made available on the 2.0T Touring?
#147
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
#148
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Few minutes to reach operating temperature at -25?
You've gotta be kidding me.
Coolant temperature for my vehicles take 5-10 minutes to hit operating temperature (Which is NOT oil temp) at 15C to 20C outside, this is for both my Fit & S4.
Oil temperatures usually take 15-20 minutes to hit full temperature depending on your oil capacity / viscosity.
You've gotta be kidding me.
Coolant temperature for my vehicles take 5-10 minutes to hit operating temperature (Which is NOT oil temp) at 15C to 20C outside, this is for both my Fit & S4.
Oil temperatures usually take 15-20 minutes to hit full temperature depending on your oil capacity / viscosity.
My coolant reaches operating temps at -22F (-30C) in about 6 minutes of fairly low rpm driving. Idling, it's about 15 minutes. The J series engine heats up super quick, especially with all the engine covers in place.
Granted, that's not oil temperatures, but I've always followed the "once your coolant is at operating temps, it's safe to VTAK" rule, and I've never had issues, across countless hondas and Acuras.
Granted, that's not oil temperatures, but I've always followed the "once your coolant is at operating temps, it's safe to VTAK" rule, and I've never had issues, across countless hondas and Acuras.
#149
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
I haven't had an oil temperature gauge on any car since my 1979 Scirocco; in that car I would see the oil temperature take an easy fifteen to twenty minutes with moderate driving before it was in the reasonably warm range. Then again, that 1.6 liter motor had a 5-quart oil pan, and given the rockin' output of about 73 horse power, there really wasn't much potential for the oil to warm up quickly.
#150
Team Owner
Thread Starter
My 370z has an oil temp gauge. It takes significantly longer for oil temps to get up to range, than coolant temps. I only drive that car in the summer and it probably takes 2.5 times as long to hit oil temps, than coolant temps. I bet at -22F, the engine needs like 40 minutes of constant driving to get up to temps
#151
Team Owner
#152
Team Owner
I haven't had an oil temperature gauge on any car since my 1979 Scirocco; in that car I would see the oil temperature take an easy fifteen to twenty minutes with moderate driving before it was in the reasonably warm range. Then again, that 1.6 liter motor had a 5-quart oil pan, and given the rockin' output of about 73 horse power, there really wasn't much potential for the oil to warm up quickly.
switch to BMW if you miss Oil temp
I have 15 miles commute to work and my temp is still below normal operating temp when i got to work
#153
Ex-OEM King
#154
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Yes you are.
quite a bit actually. More so in the US, but even in Canada there is a lot of cool shit you can't get on the sport. Trust me, I've been shopping
quite a bit actually. More so in the US, but even in Canada there is a lot of cool shit you can't get on the sport. Trust me, I've been shopping
#155
Moderator
Adaptive dampers, HUD, heated rear seats, ventilated front seats, BLIS, rain sensing wipers, full LED headlights, mirror turn signals, keyless entry, leather seating, memory driver seat, power passenger seat, 450w vs 180w stereo, OEM NAV, rear USB charging
Sport gets sport pedals.
With a roughly $5k MSRP difference.
#156
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
Regardless, once the oil temperature is up into the low 100°F range you're pretty much good to go for anything but full WOT at redline.
#157
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
#158
Ex-OEM King
Adaptive dampers, HUD, heated rear seats, ventilated front seats, BLIS, rain sensing wipers, full LED headlights, mirror turn signals, keyless entry, leather seating, memory driver seat, power passenger seat, 450w vs 180w stereo, OEM NAV, rear USB charging
Sport gets sport pedals.
With a roughly $5k MSRP difference.
Sport does come with LED headlights other than high beam, which I rarely use. It also has BLIS, keyless entry and keyless start. The USB ports in EX and higher are the same, the 2.0T Sport is the same feature set as the EX while the 1.5T Sport is the LX. I personally don't find any of the others all that useful TO ME. The adaptive dampers in the Touring haven't gotten any really good reviews, the heated rear seats don't make any difference for me, I've never had a HUD and haven't had a desire to have it, vented front seats are fun (Jeep has them) but they don't make a big difference, mirror turn signals meh, leather is missing and I would like it but seats are heated so that's ok in my book (I can see this being added in the very near future), memory seat won't matter much since the wife won't drive the manual, power passenger seat isn't a huge deal, OEM nav sucks compared to the phone based systems so I'd actively avoid paying for it, the sound system and rain sensing wipers would (however) be nice to have in the Sport.
If they made the EX-L No Nav 2.0T 6MT, that would be the one I'd buy.
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00TL-P3.2 (01-05-2018)
#159
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Right, and for me, the HUD and adaptive suspension would be considered VERY useful. To each their own, I suppose.
#160
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
I'm in the same boat; an EX-L Sport (with memory Driver's Seat, parking valets seem to delight in messing with my seat settings), no NAV (my Garmin is far better), and with rain-sensing wipers; perfect (for me).