BC's are good, I just wanted to go with the best stock cam out there personally.

 

Good, 06 tsx is excellent, I m planning go for 06 tsx too, for vtec point or check if my tuning was wrong way...

 

Yeah, from what I've read those are about the same if not more aggressive than the type R cam.

 

06 tsx More power than type r, big difference in no vtec lobe, little in vtec lobe.

 

Slowly but surely!

 

I got a little more done tonight. Crower valve looks hardly used. I will try to compare the three different cams tomorrow.

 

Well, I got a little bit more done tonight. I'm so glad the RDX has a tall engine bay, it made pulling the head off quite easy. There is no need to remove the head studs. I have to say this K20a head looks pretty darn sexy on the k23a1 block! I hope to be done soon, but I did find some gaskets that needed to be replaced. I forgot this thing has over a 160k miles on it.

 

Here we go, welcome, more picture about all work, good luck... :-)

 

Looks great!! makes me want to start over again.. im surprised you didn't add a brace for the floating deck.,. like this one http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a50...y/IMG_1672.jpg

 

I did some research on those, and read that they could do more harm than good. And a lot of K20 guys don't even run them, they just run the stock block. Apparently the K20 block is pretty Beefy from the factory, and I would assume the k23a1 block is stronger since it's boosted from the factory.

 

I'm such a parts slut.....

 

We finished a little more tonight! Oh yeah, the K20a cylinder head chambers are not as deep as the K23a. My new compression ratio will be some where in 9:1 range.

 

Higher flowing head, slightest higher compression ratio, high revving.... I can't wait to see what comes next.

All these pictures are like car porn for us car fanatics. Lol

I noticed you guys left the engine while removing the timing chain. Surprised how much room there is to work with.

I'm so excited, cant wait to see. Keep us posted!

 

My mechanic did say i should notice a difference in power out of boost, due to the increase in compression. I'll keep the pics coming!

 

Ok, we got the valve adjustment done. The turbo manifold is tight and snug. Now just waiting on my radiator hose to get here. Tracking says it will be here tuesday. My mechanic did mention one thing, "after a 1000k miles or 1609.34 kilometers" we need to do another valve adjustment.

 

Found a stopping point. Oh yeah, have to get some RSX spark plugs. The RDX ones do not fit.

 

RSX on the left and RDX on the right. You can clearly see the RDX must have a deeper cylinder chamber to hold that long spark plug. I'm digging the girth of that RSX spark plug!

 

Had to trim some of the RBC intake manifold in order to fit against the PRB water neck. I guess i didn't trim enough the first time. I should have a first start video soon!

 

If it's too hot, go low low!

 

Never thought I'd look at an engine and think "sexy". Thanks for the new pix!

 

I used tsx head (or 06 si head) with side neck for this and used rsx spark too. all look beautiful, excellent work kenb. Waiting for first start.

 

throttle body touch water neck?, or just replace some plugs?

 

Thanks for the kind words! Should have it together soon!

 

You know, when you have to cut off the water neck in order for it to fit a K20 head or RWC.

 

 

Sounds good! Congrats on getting everything up and running. I can't wait to see how everything turns out after a tune.

 

Here we go :-), now serius tuned time, I ll like see reving now...:-) more picture...

 

 

The old MAF housing

The new MAF housing


Just sent Vit the new setup information for a retune. Let's see if he accepts it!

 

 

Way to quiet...

 

Hey, Ken can you PM me when you get a sec, regarding upgrades. thanks

 

It looks like you've exceeded the maximum messages you can receive, clear some of your old ones out.

 

Did it take any customization to fit the K20 head or is it a direct swap? Do you have a parts list

 

Thanks, I just cleared the 1 message I had form administrator maximizing the inbox... guess it's newbie hazing, lol.

 

It is a direct bolt-on.

The parts needed for the swap will depend greatly on your setup.

General parts:
K20 head
RWC head gasket
New OEM dowel pins
Head studs OEM or ARP (your choice)

I would not recommend running the factory turbo manifold. You will need to block off two water ports on the rear of the block, and if you did not intend on using the K20 head waterport you'll need the K tuned block off screw.

 

Just waiting on my tune...

 

Sent my first datalog, let's see what Vit can do with the new 4" MAF and K20/K23 frankenstein setup.

 

On the second calibration with new setup, still light driving.

 

My new tune it's like starting from zero.

wait video :-)