But it also refers to the passenger windows and doors (always in parentheses) and I'm not certain as to why.

 

the parenthetical is which switch on the driver's master control unit to operate.

Sit your giant self in the driver seat and do all the steps with the window switch thingy underneath your gargantuan left hand. Don't physically move to the other seats unless you want to get Buzzpunched.

 

That's what I mean! I can't do shit on the drivers quad switch, for the rear window. Nothing moves whatsoever. I think your misunderstanding it also. I can't operate the rear window for from either the drivers door or rear door, so I can't reset it. I can't even do step 2!

 

I'm interpreting it as saying you operate the front right window. Not the rear right (that you can't operate anyway).

If this is your switches as you sit in the driver seat, you'd be diddling #2 to run the reset:
----- -----
| 1 | | 2 |
----- -----
| 3 | | 4 |
----- -----

 

Driver input - window down



Driver input - window up



Pass input - window down



Pass input - window up

​​​​​​​

 

My previous thought on short - hence no drop on LED (no lighty thingy)
both up and down energized (split) and LED shorted across

 

ok, so you were completely wrong

All the reset function is for is resetting the auto up/down function, which the rear windows don't even have. I confirmed that this procedure only works for the window you are trying to reset, not all the windows. The rear windows don't even have an auto up/down function. I did it for both front windows, and then reset them and sure enough the whole procedure did work for each of the front windows. No effect on the one working rear window. No effect on the broken window.

Still no light to the LED. Still doesn't work whatsoever.

So what next?

Fuck me, I can't believe how much grief this is causing me

 

I was wrong. :soory:

Those are pretty ambiguous directions then... I'll call Buzz and see if he can do some sort or trajectory adjustment back to USA without punching your face.

 

They are kind of ambiguous. I can't help but keep thinking I just burned something out in the driver's quad switch. But I dunno. I'm no electricity wizard. Then again, I'm no wizard whatsoever.

What would Harry Potter do?

 

Wait no light to led either? Check your grounds bro. Do a resistance test from one end of the ground cable nearest the switch to the ground point. Maybe there's an internal break in the cable

 

That's the thing thst would make sense in my head of a new motor didn't fix it

 

#6 wire on the diagrams

 

Well, I was getting voltage through it though. I hooked the multimeter up to 1-6, 2-6, 3-6 and one of them actually gave a voltage reading. Tried a number of times and same result each time.

once again,

1-6: no voltage
2-6: no voltage
3-6: voltage

 

So the MUX CTRL up/down is not showing any voltage. I have no idea what that means though.

 

It's not supposed to. I asked you to check the voltage on those lines to make sure there isn't unintended input from the mux ctrl switch.

ladiboi quiet with your aliens talk.

Taco, jump the positive voltage line to the down wire input from mux ctrl switch on the door connector (wire gnd and power line as well). Does the window go down?

 

wait.. simple English. Pretend I'm an 8 3 year old, looking at electrical stuff for the first time. (I'm pretty sure my 8 year old nephew could figure it out). Which positive voltage line?

 

I'll make diagram.. Not at computer right now though

 

Basically use wire to connect 3 and 6 to connector on door. Then connect 3 to down input from mux ctrl as well.. Your testing / spoofing the input.

 

Scratch part of my previous advice, there's not separate power input

Window test - Down

 

I get the feeling we aren't talking about the same connectors. So there is 2 in the door. One goes to the switch, one goes to the motor.

The connector going to the motor only has 2 wires in it (and looks like the one you posted, just above). It only has wires going to the #3 and #6 positions, in the grey clip (as shown below). They appear to be blue (#3) and blue/yellow (#6):





Then there's the connector going to the switch, which looks completely different. It has 6 wires going into it. It appears to have the same blue and blue/yellow wires going into it, but here they are in position uh... well just look at the sketch I posted earlier. I think #4 and #5, respectively.





Just making sure we are talking about the same thing here, before I start jamming wires into connectors.

So, I tested the voltage in the blue connector originally. Again,
1-6 showed 0v
2-6 showed 0v
And 3-6 showed voltage.

Wouldn't I want to jump the #3 from the blue connector, into one of the grey (motor)? Not the grey connector. But the actual motor that has the male pins that would go into the grey connector.

 

Test voltage on that blue connector from black to yel/red
If voltage, get a wire of sufficient gauge to touch black wire of blue connector to top pin (same orientation of pic) of grey connector
then get another wire to touch the yel/red wire of blue connector to the bottom pin of grey connector

 

Ok, wtf. Maybe there is a short. I could have sworn that just the other day I was getting a reading on the black + red/yellow wire, but now I can't get it for the life of me. NO readings anywhere on the blue fucking plug. Black wire + any other wire gives no fucking reading. The only time I get a reading is if the multimeter is connected to the red/yellow wire, and I physically touch the other multimeter connector with my hand (in this case, I would be acting as a ground, wouldnt I?) so is there a faulty ground then? Or is it shorted, and getting voltage from somewhere?

This is is starting to seriously piss me off. I for the life of me cannot make sense of this.

I have no idea how I could get a reading the other day, on multiple different tries, but today I get fuck all on multiple different tries. I am 99.99999% sure there was nothing touching that shouldn't have been touching, the other day when I got a reading.

Im wondering if it's the wires I'm using. I'm gonna grab some paper clips (thicker gauge than what I was using) from work tomorrow and try it again.

It seems odd the ground (black) wire isn't doing anything today. Wouldn't that ground wire be attached to a ground point used by multiple other ground wires? Everything else in the car fucking works. Gah!!!!

 

^ Ignore above post.

Here it is again (hopefully makes more sense)

Ok, blue plug only:
I put one multimeter end into red/yellow, other multimeter end into black: no reading
i put one multimeter end into red/yellow, other multimeter end I touch: 10-11v
i put one multimeter end into black, other multimeter end into red/yellow: no reading
i put one multimeter end into black, other multimeter end I touch: 10-11v

sounds like a shorted ground?

but then I try doing the same thing for the connection you suggested:
blue connector black wire, connected to top pin grey connector (as you suggested)
Blue connector red/yellow wire, connected to bottom pin grey connector (as you suggested)

and nothing happens. So then I figure it has to be the black wire not working, so I pull it out of the black wire and just hold it and still nothing happens. Nothing happens regardless. WTF?!?!??????????

 

try what I suggested, but instead of black wire to top pin, touch the top pin to a part of the body (inner door, etc).

 

After, check the voltage on that brown / white wire as well as that brown wire on the connector.
The fact that the common ground is energized means there's voltage coming across one of the lines.
If it's from the MUX CTRL (brown, brown/white), we found the issue.

 

Also don't use your hand, touch the other probe of the multimeter to the body of the car.

 

Hello, 1st post here. Digging up this old thread as I am encountering the exact same issues as the OP, even same door LH Rear, but he wasn't kind enough to post back with what fixed his issue.
I did a little more checking stuff out before throwing parts at it as OP did & here's what I have come up with, would just like some thoughts before I continue.
Motor is good, functions up & down when powered directly.
What I have found is 12V at ground wire at the blue plug with 6 wires that plugs into window switch, with key on or off.
As soon as I run a ground wire from back of blue plug and ground on car body 0V at ground on switch & window functions from both switches.
So does this mean there is an issue with the master switch in drivers door?
Can't see it being a broken ground wire in harness or I wouldn't be getting voltage thru it.
Also the window switch doesn't illuminate on the rear door, but all 4 window switches on master do illuminate.

Thanks for any insight.

 

 

LEDS in the master look to be ran by the MICU and not the ground on the rear door

If you have power at the plug and then providing ground fixes it, then it's an issue with G503 ground or G601.

 

SO those grounds look to be near the center console and under the drivers seat:

 

I would see if you can see if the ground is good via the door harness rather than in the panel itself. Could be a bad wire at the door harness going into the car. Wires can fray over time, common issue for example on front door of MDX 2G.

 

Thanks for the wiring diagrams & ground locations. I have it grounded to the door for now & seems to work OK.
Bought the car 5 years ago & don't know if it has worked since I bought it as no one sits in the back seat.
I'll have a look at the grounds in the spring when it warms up.

 

Hey guys ik reviving an old thread but did anyone find a solution to this problem? I have the same issue, no light to the rear driver side window switch, changed switches still no light. I used a test light and I found that the MUX DOWN function doesn’t give me a voltage

 

As I mentioned in the post above yours, I just grounded the ground wire at switch to the door and it works. csmeance had provided a possible solution & location of grounds under drivers seat & console. I never got around to looking in those locations as it functions fine with grounding to the door.