So im doing some small mods in the next couple weeks.

Nothing crazy I purchased a Takeda Throttle body spacer good for 4-6whp and Tq.. im lookingonna now at the MDX manifold spacer, im seeing gains of 8-10hp maybe a couple more my question is when I searched the RL section I didn't come up with much in results I would see CL and TL Acuras.

Has anyone done this? Clearance is fine?

With the AWD im curious to see if I notice a gain between both mods im looking at 12-16 hp gain for the pair which I'm happy with for the cheap mods.. add a Jpipe and the 3 together I'd see 25-30hp

Any feedback from anyone?

 

Definitely not getting anywhere near 4-6whp from the TN spacer. IMO that's just a waste of time.

The manifold spacer you'll feel more low end tq for sure. I've been meaning to get that done but haven't got around to it. Clearance will def be tight

 

Idk man, ive seen a few dynos with SI's and Accord and the numbers dont lie.. the people who say they feel a gain are full of shit but the numbers are legit

Get the manifold spacer I wanna see it in action

 

Some parts of the RL are built like a Civic or Accord. Others definitely are not. You are driving the flagship Honda. It's the best they ever made. Some things cannot be improved upon without compromising something else. For instance, good luck making the intake significantly better.

 

I'm in the process of doing my intake and throttle body spacer on my 05 RL soon. I don't drive my car everyday so it will be hard for me to give insight on how well it works. Just like others say, just low end torque supposedly. I have yet to find out if anyone with our RL has done it yet.

 

I'd leave it alone.
Which is useful information.
Just not really pertinent to this thread.

Post results!

 

 

Any air tuning is done in the intake manifold and not before it!!!

so, the point of TB spacer is to add more volume....BUT!!!! Throttle body dictates how much air goes in, REGARDLESS if you have a TB spacer. you cannot draw in more air if throttle body will not allow it. a better mod would be a larger diameter throttle body.

an intake manifold spacer WILL add VOLUME!

p.s. Dynos arent a good indicater of estimated power levels...
as a dyno operator can skew results in some ones favor.

 

So what is the best realistic measure of power?

 

CL what's the update in that engine I know u didn't leave it all open like that overnight

007 I just want a little more pep from the engine side.. Jpipe I want but I can think of a million things I'd rather spend 500 dollars on lol

Only things I can think of are J37 items but what?
I only have pulley and KNN drop filter which I need to motivate and remove the resonator for some better response.
Throttle body spacer I ended up returning.

 

Only took a little cruise after I finished but it definitely woke the car up a bit. Feels like it's always ready to go but I REALLY notice it in 3rd gear around 3kish, RPMs slowly climb but the speedo keeps climbing..

Overall I can't complain at all considering the engine is 100% stock & it's only gonna get better as the ecu relearns.

Cost me only $45 bucks for longer bolts since I had the spacer from my old 3.5 I had in storage plus I had some gaskets kicking around.

One thing is the hood needs spacers to clear, still need to play around with it.

 

so what did you have? the Mdx spacer? or the P2R spacer?

Im looking on HeelToe at both spacers which the P2R more compromises for engine clearance over the MDX.
The P2R is a little more money but if it helps the clearance it might be worth the extra $50. I am gonna email Heel Toe to see what they say but in the meantime CL if you can post a pic of how the hood looks im curious to see this "fitment issue" with a image to help me understand it better

 

EDIT realized its the MDX spacer

 

Here's some quick pics, I can still drop it slightly..

 

lol if thats how u park your car in your driveway thats pretty boss lol.. I see the little gap.. its not bad but for someone like me id notice it all the time.

what do you do than?

lemme ask.. I was on ebay earlier and I saw Intake spacers off of OEM MDX 2004's is that what you have because I see 170 gets me the P2R with both gaskets but than I see OEM MDX spacers for 45 bucks on ebay no bolts pr gaskets but 1/4 of the price so im thinking of doing the MDX spacer over P2R

 

Instead of spacing the hood, cut the bracing. I'm positive, manifold is hitting a brace to the hood. Like a skeleton, cut part of skeleton to fit!

Won't effect hood

 

Mayor, mdx spacer is taller.
P2r is thinner and will fit with out modification to hood. Although, the point of the spacer is to add volume.... Why go with p2r if it's smaller???

 

The quarter mile.
Trap speed indicates how fast your car really is

 

True point

So if i bought a 2003-2006 Acura MDX intake manifold spacer that would work on my RL?

I gotta find the extended bolts too.. anyone wanna direct me to those?

 

Exactly what teh_cl did

 

It's my gf's cottage & it's the only spot that flat enough to jack up the car.

The spacer I used is off a 01-02' MDX but you can use one off any MDX till 06' or even a Ridgeline or odyssey.

The bolts you need are M8 x 105, suppose to get 2 extended studs as well but I just used the extended bolts and I don't have any leaks.

Bolts: 95701-08105-08

 

^did you space or cut the hood bracing!??

 

just force hood closed

 

Pretty sure I posted pics of the spaced hood

I don't mind the spaced hood though, it's nothing like the hood I had on the CLS6. Gonna fine tune the height after I do my motor mounts.

I've done mostly highway driving since I put it on but the low RPM TQ is there, especally when passing. My high end does seem like it loss some but I think it has more to do with having the stock intake/exhaust.

 

my bad, i clearly didnt read your "hood post" correctly.

put hood back to OEM and just cut the bracing, cleaner look! as it will sit flush. but just my two cents!

 

I'm throwing on a 3.7 IM/TB later this week so that will help a bit with clearance & the hood should be able to come down a bit.


Been almost a week and I can't complain at all. Less effort to get moving from a stop is always nice. Only piss off is that I can really notice that my mounts are shot and my flex pipe leak that I was at peace with is at me..

 

problem solved

 

Guess that would be a good idea with solid mounts. Isn't some flex ideal?


I was probably just going to exhaust wrap the leak which should tone it down..

 

ideally yes.
I think my mounts were shot and allowing the flex portion to flex too much and eventually come apart. I also have 6MT, so maybe my driving led to the flex leaking.

I do now have stiffer motor mounts and I have NOT broken these welds...yet. lol

 

That's def what's going on with my flex, mounts are toast and this extra 50wtq () from the spacer didn't help either...

 

Think I may have an air leak


Hearing this intakeish sound when I get on the gas which I never noticed before. Guess it could be my flex getting worse but I don't think so. Idle is still normal though...

 

jack up car(use stands), have gf give it a little gas, while you're underneath at flex section. you will feel it!

also, dont think it affects idle(mine never did) all mine ever displayed was an annoying sound, loud as hell.

 

I've never felt it but I've seen the flex & it's pretty much gone


Gonna try wrapping it this weekend and seeing if it helps..


Feels like the car kinda hits a wall around 4k & struggles a bit, extra torque + too much exhaust flow?

 

if its a small leak, that pressure will be pretty high and doubt exhaust wrap would hold in that pressure. ive had a few pinholes in exhaust and you can feel the air rushing out at high rate of speed! but at this point, you probably just want to try anything. Good luck to you!!

 

Soo.. the intake pipe is ripped right at the TB

 

duct tape!

 

As as that is that's the route I'm gonna go.. Was gonna do an intake over the weekend but impossible to find 4" inlet intake filters locally

 

well, I assume the duct tape fix is only temporary
which would be okay in my book!

 

 

sorry for waking this old post up, but how many of those bolts should I pick up, and do I need to grab those studs? If so what's the part number? Thanks for the help