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I need to replace the front subframe on my 6 speed 05 TL.
According to delay Acura, The part number appears to be the same for both the automatic and the manual transmission. Can anyone confirm its the same? I found a used one on eBay but the car is an automatic.
Dude... Look at delray acura's parts website and check the numbers yourself.
Dude, you missed my point, I did. They say the same number. Just looking for confirmation before I pull the trigger on buying a used one that I can't return...at least not without spending a couple of hundred dollars in shipping costs.
Dude... Look at delray acura's parts website and check the numbers yourself.
Dude, you missed my point, I did. They say the same number. Just looking for another confirmation before I pull the trigger on buying a used one that I can't return...at least not without spending a couple of hundred dollars in shipping costs.
I wouldn't think a "kiss" would merit a subframe replacement... Are you sure it needs to be replaced? If so, I'm guessing several other suspension items were bent as well?
He was able to drive it home and after pulling the (cracked, bent and heavily scraped) wheel off, the first thing I noticed was the subframe middle mount was sheared off and offset from its home position. Since this mount is welded to the subframe cross beam which is welded to the subframe, I had to conclude the subframe was now bent. I'm certain other attachments, sway bar, links, etc are bent too.
I'd say it was more than a "kiss" with damage like that.
Part numbers say it all, but if it makes you feel better, I have a used subframe that came from an automatic TL in my car with a MT.
So I purchased the new (used) sub frame. Working on getting the old one off. Actually I'm supervising my son and his buddy while he learns to work on the little project he created for himself by "kissing" the curb. Yes, its more then a kiss...more like a make out session with his girlfriend. Anyway, thought I would post some pics of the damage and the progress with the replacement. You'll notice the engine bar I had to buy to support the engine and trans. Had to remove the fenders to give it somewhere to brace. You can see the sub frame middle mount sheared off and well out of position. You can also see a tear in the sub frame. Frame was almost touching one of the header bolts on the exhaust...had to pound a socket onto the nut using a 3 pound hammer...actually worked pretty good...as barbaric as it sounds.
Car has 90k on the current timing belt and so will replace this and the water pump while were at it. Oil pan was replaced some time back and developed a leak after putting on the new one. The leak is almost certainly due to the installation process that likely smeared the Honda sealant and the lack of good access to a few bolts that were inline with the sub frame and so never could get good torque on the bolts. All this will be much easier with the sub frame removed.
Added a pic of my 550 HP SC M3...for those of you in to that kind of thing.
how did you get the cradle off? did you take out the exhaust from the header part or what did you do? im in the same exact situation, just dont really kno what to do
how did you get the cradle off? did you take out the exhaust from the header part or what did you do? im in the same exact situation, just dont really kno what to do
IMO : This is a massive undertaking. The first thing I would do , is familiarize myself, with the Factory Manual, for step by step procedures! At least, the Manual, will give you an idea, of, in which sequence, various components need to be removed.,
Thats an interesting top mount brace / cradle thing. I wonder if you can use that to replace the transmission? I have no idea if the transmission can be taken out while the engine remains.
Thats an interesting top mount brace / cradle thing. I wonder if you can use that to replace the transmission? I have no idea if the transmission can be taken out while the engine remains.
Yes, the transmission can be removed while the engine stays in; that would be the procedure for all of the 6MT models when in for a clutch replacement.
Mine is an automatic. I assume the torque converter is part of that too. I have a helm manual but not read about transmison swaps or repair kits. I suppose that support bar is great for swapping the front away bar too since the lower subframe has to be loosened.
found t he support bar here.
https://m.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided
Thats an interesting top mount brace / cradle thing. I wonder if you can use that to replace the transmission? I have no idea if the transmission can be taken out while the engine remains.
Yep, the transmission can be taken out while the engine stay in the car. I just got through doing it. The transmission in my 06 TL died, so I pulled a AV6/BAYA trans from a 07 Accord as this is suppose to be a more robust or durable option than going back with the same transmission ir came with. We’ll find out.
Also, you can remove the engine from the top, but it is super tight and you have to remove the oil filter housing. Just a little FYI.
Cool . How many miles did you get out of the transmission? And I guess you have not finished the swap yet..?
Originally Posted by TacoTom1967
Yep, the transmission can be taken out while the engine stay in the car. I just got through doing it. The transmission in my 06 TL died, so I pulled a AV6/BAYA trans from a 07 Accord as this is suppose to be a more robust or durable option than going back with the same transmission ir came with. We’ll find out.
Also, you can remove the engine from the top, but it is super tight and you have to remove the oil filter housing. Just a little FYI.
I’m not done with the swap yet, but getting closer. I work nights so it’s natural for me to be working on stuff at night in my days off, but getting parts a 2am is difficult. Also, I’m swapping the control arms, rear main engine seal, axle seals, engine mounts, and anything I can get to easily now.
The one thing I’ve been trying to understand. Why does the transmission removal section of the factory service manual tell you to lock the steering wheel but not to remove it.
Because if the steering wheel spins, it will play tricks on the spring Reel that is mounted behind the steering wheel. And it will think you are spinning your steering wheel and it could set off the airbags when you put electric back on it. Plus it will not know the position of your steering wheel. At a minimum it will trigger the ABS. When you buy a new Reel, it comes with a clip and it is set in position. The clip is removed after installed so the reel is not inadvertently turned out of position. so if you disco the steering wheel from the bottom, then it can turn out of position. So just tie it down or something. Or just dont turn your steering wheel while it is disconnected.
Originally Posted by TacoTom1967
I’m not done with the swap yet, but getting closer. I work nights so it’s natural for me to be working on stuff at night in my days off, but getting parts a 2am is difficult. Also, I’m swapping the control arms, rear main engine seal, axle seals, engine mounts, and anything I can get to easily now.
The one thing I’ve been trying to understand. Why does the transmission removal section of the factory service manual tell you to lock the steering wheel but not to remove it.
Drivers side You can see the groove it was making. This is the drivers side. Passenger side.
Originally Posted by TacoTom1967
Yep, the transmission can be taken out while the engine stay in the car. I just got through doing it. The transmission in my 06 TL died, so I pulled a AV6/BAYA trans from a 07 Accord as this is suppose to be a more robust or durable option than going back with the same transmission ir came with. We’ll find out.
Also, you can remove the engine from the top, but it is super tight and you have to remove the oil filter housing. Just a little FYI.
Update: We’ll, I’m glad I’m doing the subframe swap too. The steel lower control arms had eaten the aluminum mount on the subframe almost in a complete circle on the bottom side on the passenger side of the car and was just starting to break through on the drivers side. Obviously, if the bushing in the front mounting point of your front lower controls is failing or has failed, I suggest you replace it ASAP.
The passenger side looks structurally damaged.. I guess it was making noise to say the least.. right?
Yes it was. It also was walking especially in the wet. I knew the bushing was gone and that the inner tie rod was going out. Either way, as you can see fromthe pictures, if that bushing goes or is going, it’s in your best interest to get it fixed ASAP.
Question: Can anyone tell me whether or not to swap this metal shim from my 06 TL trans to the 07 Accord AV6/BAYA? 06 TL tc 06 TL tc- shim found on tc hub...do I transfer this or not? 07 Accord tc 07 Accord tc 06 TL tc
Because if the steering wheel spins, it will play tricks on the spring Reel that is mounted behind the steering wheel. And it will think you are spinning your steering wheel and it could set off the airbags when you put electric back on it. Plus it will not know the position of your steering wheel. At a minimum it will trigger the ABS. When you buy a new Reel, it comes with a clip and it is set in position. The clip is removed after installed so the reel is not inadvertently turned out of position. so if you disco the steering wheel from the bottom, then it can turn out of position. So just tie it down or something. Or just dont turn your steering wheel while it is disconnected.
Yeah, I finally got a service advisor to tell me they do not remove the steering wheel. They just lock it in using the steering wheel lock and with the wheel pointed straight. Thank you for your reply though. It is appreciated.
06-19-2016 | 01:27 PM
