Lights and amp wiring questions.
04-20-2016, 10:38 PM
#1
Lights and amp wiring questions.
Hi guys. Couple questions.
So, I picked up one of the 2016 kicker CompR 12s ,in the kicker box. I have a kicker 4G wiring kit, kicker CX 1200.1 amp, kicker LOC, and kicker fuse and terminals.
I've done a couple normal installs , but want to be sure I've read correctly in the other threads.
So, basically , I run my power, ground, and remote. I like to have an in line toggle for my amp so I'll do that. But direct to the battery with the remote, or to the fuse box, add a fuse?
Now for signal, I just use my loc to tap into the factory sub wires right? My loc has 2 ports but , but my amp is mono, do I need to connect both left and both right leads on the loc, to the factory sub? My sub is dvc 2 or 4 ohm.
Also,
Floorboard lights.
I wired them to the dome light lead, so they'd dim with the rest of the lights. If I want to put a toggle, I'd need a 3 post switch, center is ground, one side dome, one side constant right?
So, I picked up one of the 2016 kicker CompR 12s ,in the kicker box. I have a kicker 4G wiring kit, kicker CX 1200.1 amp, kicker LOC, and kicker fuse and terminals.
I've done a couple normal installs , but want to be sure I've read correctly in the other threads.
So, basically , I run my power, ground, and remote. I like to have an in line toggle for my amp so I'll do that. But direct to the battery with the remote, or to the fuse box, add a fuse?
Now for signal, I just use my loc to tap into the factory sub wires right? My loc has 2 ports but , but my amp is mono, do I need to connect both left and both right leads on the loc, to the factory sub? My sub is dvc 2 or 4 ohm.
Also,
Floorboard lights.
I wired them to the dome light lead, so they'd dim with the rest of the lights. If I want to put a toggle, I'd need a 3 post switch, center is ground, one side dome, one side constant right?
05-02-2016, 09:10 PM
#3
Would like some precisions as well. I'll be installing an amp/sub setup soon.
But to answer you a bit, yes you install your power and ground as you should with any other setup (power from battery to amp and ground from amp to metal part of the car).
Remote from what I've seen would need to be tapped in one of the wires from your factory amp (reddish orange wire with silver as well, hard to explain which one though; it's in the first set of wires you'll have access to). This I would need confirmation from someone who actually installed one. But it doesn't connect to your battery or any fuse, it's a wire that makes the amp work when there is an audio signal from your car.
The LOC connects to your factory sub wires to send the signal to your Kicker amp. Even if your amp is mono, you still need to use both leads to have a signal. That doesn't change whether the amp if mono or not, it's how the audio signal gets to the amp.
Now to connect your sub, since it's a dual voice coil, you have to decide whether to plug it in series or in parallel. That all depends on how many ohms you want to work with (better find out if your sub is a 2 or 4 ohm). If it's a 2 ohm, you can work on 1 ohm in parallel or 4 ohms in series, and if it's a 4, you'll be on 2 or 8 ohms. That why you need to know and match the power needed for your sub to the best one your amp can give. From what I can see on Kicker's website, your amp can give 1200 watts on 2 ohms and 600 watts at 4 ohms. It doesn't say anything for 1 and 8 ohms, so it's probably not stable on 1 ohm and wouldn't give enough power on 8 ohms. So if you sub is a 2 ohm, you should connect it in series and if it's a 4 ohm, it would be better in parallel.
Can't really help with the lights though.
But to answer you a bit, yes you install your power and ground as you should with any other setup (power from battery to amp and ground from amp to metal part of the car).
Remote from what I've seen would need to be tapped in one of the wires from your factory amp (reddish orange wire with silver as well, hard to explain which one though; it's in the first set of wires you'll have access to). This I would need confirmation from someone who actually installed one. But it doesn't connect to your battery or any fuse, it's a wire that makes the amp work when there is an audio signal from your car.
The LOC connects to your factory sub wires to send the signal to your Kicker amp. Even if your amp is mono, you still need to use both leads to have a signal. That doesn't change whether the amp if mono or not, it's how the audio signal gets to the amp.
Now to connect your sub, since it's a dual voice coil, you have to decide whether to plug it in series or in parallel. That all depends on how many ohms you want to work with (better find out if your sub is a 2 or 4 ohm). If it's a 2 ohm, you can work on 1 ohm in parallel or 4 ohms in series, and if it's a 4, you'll be on 2 or 8 ohms. That why you need to know and match the power needed for your sub to the best one your amp can give. From what I can see on Kicker's website, your amp can give 1200 watts on 2 ohms and 600 watts at 4 ohms. It doesn't say anything for 1 and 8 ohms, so it's probably not stable on 1 ohm and wouldn't give enough power on 8 ohms. So if you sub is a 2 ohm, you should connect it in series and if it's a 4 ohm, it would be better in parallel.
Can't really help with the lights though.
Last edited by cprime; 05-02-2016 at 09:13 PM.
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SocomM4 (05-03-2016)
05-03-2016, 11:29 AM
#4
Ok, the sub has a switch on the side 2 or 4 ohm.
I'm thinking 4ohm so I don't over power the sub. It also has 2 sets of connectors on the sub. Don't know if I just use one set or both.
Do you know if I can access the sub wires front the truck side and not have to remove the rear seats and deck?
The remote can just come from the battery to my toggle right? I don't want it to come on whenever I start the car.
Going to hide the base knob, and switches in one of the console flip up cubbys
I'm thinking 4ohm so I don't over power the sub. It also has 2 sets of connectors on the sub. Don't know if I just use one set or both.
Do you know if I can access the sub wires front the truck side and not have to remove the rear seats and deck?
The remote can just come from the battery to my toggle right? I don't want it to come on whenever I start the car.
Going to hide the base knob, and switches in one of the console flip up cubbys
05-03-2016, 04:59 PM
#5
Your sub has two sets of connectors because it's a dual coil. If you want to go with 4 ohms, you need to plug all four leads in parallel. You can easily find out how with a quick search online.
Yes, the sub wires can be accessed in the trunk without removing the seats. But you will need to remove them to feed the wires from the trunk to the battery and to your toggle. It's not a hard thing to do. Six bolts and a few clips.
As for your toggle, I don't really have any knowledge of that so someone else will need to answer that.
Still need confirmation as well as to where the remote wire needs to be connected without a toggle like SocomM4 wants to do.
Yes, the sub wires can be accessed in the trunk without removing the seats. But you will need to remove them to feed the wires from the trunk to the battery and to your toggle. It's not a hard thing to do. Six bolts and a few clips.
As for your toggle, I don't really have any knowledge of that so someone else will need to answer that.
Still need confirmation as well as to where the remote wire needs to be connected without a toggle like SocomM4 wants to do.
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SocomM4 (05-03-2016)
05-03-2016, 08:00 PM
#7
How do those work? Saw what it looks like and I understand the purpose of it, but do you need to have two fuses for it to work? And how do you decide what strength of fuse to put in?
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cprime (05-05-2016)
05-16-2016, 04:10 PM
#14
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