As many of my fellow 6MT'ers have probably experienced, the top of my original shift knob was deteriorating. I have read many good reviews of the Maven shift knob but could not find anything concerning the countersunk knob on a TL. I purchased the countersunk knob and thought I would post some pictures.

I framed the pictures by hand but you can use the e-brake as a gauge, it was not altered between shots. However, it looks like the shots with the Maven are at a lower angle.

Note the OEM knob has the bracket at the bottom to attach to the ring on the shift boot so it sits higher.


With Flash


No Flash

 

Hope you don't park in the sun.

 

^^agreed^^

 

She stays in the garage at home and under covered parking at work.

 

looking good, is there a way to prevent or reduce wear on oem knob?

I personally like the oem knob and mines at 118xxx still looking pretty mint aside from some minor scratching and low wear.

 

Is the maven weighted?!? That's my main gripe with the oem one, it's very light...in additon to the short shifter, you want a little weight and height behind it. I went with a monster knobs spun resin one...which is great, doesn't absorb heat or cold and sits low, but want something that'll be a bit taller. Thinking about the weighted moshimoto one...

J.

 

Yep! If you don't have one then I highly recommend you get one. I installed mine along with the Comptech SS and new bushings. Shifting is much more enjoyable now.

It does get EXTREMELY hot in the summer though. There were some days last summer where I literally could not rest my hand on it for more then three seconds. (Not that your hand should ever have to be on it for longer then three seconds at a time.)

"The reason you should not do this is because the weight of your hand, and arm, is multiplied due to leverage. This can move the shifter rail slightly off the detent ball which holds the shift and fork in its proper position. The shifter fork fingers are then being rubbed against the rotating synchronizer sleeve. Over time the shift fork fingers and the sleeve will wear down. Once the gap is excessive the force applied to the gearset in question (1/2, 3/4, etc) will try to slide the synchronizer inserts inside the sleeve. There is a point of no-return here and the synchronizer hub/sleeve assembly will then try to place itself in the neutral position; a.k.a jumping out of gear."

 

That's great to know, thanks, man.

My other choice was the NRG weighted carbon fiber one...hmmm...got some deciding to do.

But yeah, the SS, and removing the slave checkvalve transformed this car.

 

Rockstar what exactly did removing the slave checkvalve do for you? I have not done it yet. If it makes shifting from 1st to 2nd better then I'm def going to be doing it.

I love the TL's 6-speed, but shifting from 1st to 2nd gets really annoying at times.

 

how much does it weigh?

my titanium coated skunk2 knob is never unbearably hot even after parking under the sun for a couple hours.

 

^^^you must have leather hands!

Alaskan Player...get ready to blow your mind. It will make the honda manual shift like a honda manual shift. I did it within 3 months of driving the car. No matter how smoothly i'd try and shift, it was jerky. Now, butter. Been almost three years.

http://rtl.acurazine.com/forums/show...php?p=13319093

 

Might be a stupid question but I rarely shift aggressively......what does this knob do that an OEM one can't?

 

it was wearing out and looking ugly, this was just another option to replace it rather than going oem again.

Also, heavier knob helps with a more firm and solid FEEL when shifting.

 

Ah ok, it's probably one of those things you have to experience to know what it's meant for....I've just never driven a manual with any sort of special shift knob. Maybe one day I'll get to.

It does look really good and I'm not a fan of that kind of stuff....nicely executed!

 

I want a 6mt

 

you need to remove the checkvalve.

It makes shifting in all gears better, and it especially makes fast shifting at high RPM's better. Faster power deliver to the wheels and smooth shifts will be the result. Until I did the checkvalve delete, I simply would not ever try to shift my car quickly at high RPM (5k+) because there would always be a delay in engagement as I got back on the throttle after completing my shift - this leads to premature clutch failure and heatspotting as noted in Opel's thread on the checkvalve delete process.

My buddy who has owned several RSX-S's (which have an amazing shift), and who auto-crosses struggled to effectively shift the TL's 6mt from 1st to 2nd - in order to do it smoothly you need to adjust how you drive stick to be different from every other manual trans you've driven in the past. IF you do the checkvalve mod, however, you won't have to even think about it anymore, it will be so easy to shift properly.

I cannot stress enough that you should do the checkvalve delete.

 

in the biz...we like to call that concurrence ^^^

 

dookie, do you like that shift knob? mine is pretty shitty and i really don't feel like spending the 90 bucks or whatever on the oem one.

 

As someone who has the Maven, it is awesome. It was one of the first mods I got for the TL. Picked up a lightly used Maven on the black market for I think it was $50 or so. It does get blistering hot in the summer and ice cold in the winter though. However that is easily remedied by keeping a winter hat or something else insulated in the car. I even would use a microfiber towel, just wrapped it up when I parked in the summer and it stayed cooler than it would uncovered.

 

I replaced my OEM one for $30 at the dealer (who price matched Delray Acura's online price).

Sorry for the double post. You have to buy the 4G knob to get it for under $40. It's a perfect fit.

 

Thanks I didn't know the newer knob would be cheaper. Doesn't seem to make sense really buy whatever haha

 

Got my maven knob cs today and very nice. Knawb sits low and flush w/ the ring on boot. Shifting is very positive and confident inspiring

I have a slight clacking from the boot ring to the knawb I might put a nylpn washer or something unless another idea is given

 

Quick question,dont mean to thread jack or anything.

I have a 6 speed weighted skunk2 knob that was used in my friends rsx. Will this shift knob fit my 06 TL?

 

That looks like the regular maven mark 1...not the countersunk one. Although the M1 is kind of countersunk to begin with compared to stock.

In for pics of the 4G knob though.

 

for my spun resin monster knob, I put 2 rubber washers (they are actually the washers for a garden hose) and 2 of those really thick tie wraps to hold up the silver ring that holds up the boot...good thing, you can move it but it stays where you leave it. Raise it up and use the screwing down of the knob to make it super tight.

I had a VERY low shift knob...it was great, never got hot. But mixed with the short shifter, I did NOT like the lack of leverage. I recently swapped to a mishimoto weighted (almost 4 times more) shift knob...and I LOVE It. It's black chrome.

from far:



and here is my old one...

 

^ That looks good! so you prefer your current set up?
I used to have Maven knob. I didn't like it much so i replaced it with M1 Abram knob after 2month. I loved it so much! still love it!! It weighted approx. 460g. and height adjustable. It's just perfect for me.

 

^ I'm jealous of your black interior lol
To anyone who hasn't done the salve cylinder CV delete its time.
IDK about anyone else but after it was done it felt like my clutch grabbed harder when taking off too.

 

It's literally the exact same as the 3G knob. http://instagr.am/p/IsVG2BRTkS/

 

I like the mishimoto a LOT more! The countersunk one was cool...but would sometimes require some extra strength to pull/push it into gear. I was going to go with another rounded shaped one, but I ended up really liking the longer slender shifter, can grab it sideways, like a beer...but it's still thick enough up top to be comfortable for my palm for a top grab (no homo). It is 380 grams...and goes into gear without fail, every time...you can raise or lower it too...and it also does one more important thing...it gets my arm HIGHER than my morning coffee mug!

I have slave cylinder checkvalve delete.
I have short shifter
I have GM syncromesh fluid in the tranny.

I am in love with the driving experience in my car.

 

I would never replace the oem one for a different kind. The oem for me is one of the best looking ones out of many cars i've driven.

 

I agree with that, after the S2000. But I can't deny how good the weighted knob feels. Add that weight to the oem knob somehow and I'll switch back.

 

^^^I agree, I never cared about the weighted...but then I tested out my friend's MS3 shifter...and was like...WOW, is this weighted?!?! Yep...I LOVED that...

It shifts like butter. I guess, it also depends on having the Short Shifter...because prior to that, it was a longer throw and less precise so it was much easier to get into the desired gear with no effort. I LOVE the SS...so this equalizes things out.

 

^^ How much shorter are the throws with the ss?

 

I want to say they are 55% of original throw, I know now I can rest my elbow and shift without moving my whole arm, just wrist. Which was what I wanted.

 

Sun? This knob in no way needs sun to get hot....it just needs to be warm out to get hot. I have the maven knob for my AT and during the summer months this thing gets hot as fk regardless of its sun exposure. But it looks cool, and feels "cool"(freezing in the winter)...so all is good.

 

It'll be hot as fk if you really parked outside in the sun. I wouldn't get this one -__-

 

Maybe Ill have to invest in one

 

I don't regret it one bit...it's my first experience with one...I always thought a short shifter was just something that would lower the knob. I really do love it...it takes away that "wishy washy" feeling of being in gear but being able to wobble the shifter around...and makes it feel much more precise when it kinda "pops" into gear.

About the hot shifter, the spun resin one would never get hot. The mishimoto one gets scalding hot if exposed to direct sun...just good motivation for me to remember to put up my sun shade! Plus, it gets hot for like 2 minutes...once I open the windows and start driving it cools down quickly.

 

The mavens get very hot and very cold.

I actually bought a bunch of silicone rubber and urethane rubber from smooth-on and was going to try and mold a nice "slip on" rubber cover for the maven knobs. Something that would negate the temp and possibly give a little grip all while not adding much to the size of the knob.

But alas, I've been too lazy to work on it. Lol

 

Won't that kill how great it looks though?!!
Plus, I'm sure you could get some funny votes on what you should make the mold of to GRIP during shifting.