I had to uninstall the Takeda intake because the check engine light keeps coming on I think there were too much air coming in for the MAF to handle. I install the factory intake back, took it to the dealer to scan but they did not find a code.
The check engine light hasn't come on since the car even runs better.

 

So many of us have had the Takeda intake installed without any Check Engine light issues, I'd bet your issue was either completely unrelated or potentially caused by a incorrect install. Regardless, glad to hear your car's OK.

 

Takeda intake does in fact work on the 3.7 and yes, they are not the same. If you order from the vendor in this thread they will send you two adapters one of which will fit the 3.7L.

 

+1, my money is on bad install.

 

I will install it again but after the winter my car only has 3400 kms. The Takeda came with 2 adapters I use the bigger one. I really have to go over it step by step the next time I install it.

 

The intake tube is the same; TAKEDA includes adapters for the 3.5 and 3.7 throttle body in every package.

I highly doubt it's due to the intake. There are dozens, if not hundreds, of TL owners with the TAKEDA intake who have had no issues.

 

I hope there will be no issue... just installed...

 

as long as all the hoses are properly connected, intake it self will not pose a problem.

Just make sure not to clip something else...

 

I got mine a month ago and Love it!

 

Just put mine on today and did a writeup under my thread in the photography section... Thought I'd copy/paste a portion of it onto here for some more pictures if anyone is interested...

I bought it off of Ebay for $279.00 shipped. I thought I'd take you all through the install process and my opinions on it at the moment. I might be preaching to the choir on this because so many people seem to have this modification already!


Product arrived in a nice, shiney Takeda box.


I couldn't start on it last night, so I started on it this morning. I've installed at least 4 other intakes on various vehicles in the past, so I took the directions more or less as a recommendation and only referred to them if I was stuck on something. The first thing I'll let you know up front is that I did not remove or disconnect the battery for the entire install process. I personally just didn't want to go through that pain in the ass step with all of the radio code resets later on. Call me lazy...



It comes with everything you see here...




The first thing I noticed is that apparently none of my previous services must have cleaned or replaced my damn stock air filter! It was filthy!



All of the screws/bolts that hold in the bottom part of the air box were easy to remove except the 10mm one between the battery and the filter. Gee thanks, Acura. But I had an 8" extension and used a u-joint attachment with a 10mm socket at the end of my 3/8" drive rachet. It'll take some finaggling, but ultimately, I got it and removed it.






I won't bother to show you the rest of this process, because the directions have good pictures on them, but here was the hardest part of the whole installation... the two coolant nipples and their clamps that are positioned in the worst possible manner, terribly hard to get them off! Had to use two pairs of needlenose pliers, a 14" one and a really small 3 inch one. Just be patient and you can get it though...

here is the less harder of the two coolant nipples to get off...



Also, here is one of the only pieces that used to attach the whole stock setup, but doesn't have a place to attach anywhere. I fit it snuggly down here on the bottom area of the fuse box. It's just a vacuum box for something, so it's not too important/fragile.



Here is another little surprise that didn't stop me, but might stop you. The directions list the tools you need but they missed one, a #4 allen wrench head. If you don't have an extensive tool collection, you will be stopped by this step. These 3 bolts will allow the filter to be attached to the air redirection plate.



Test fit for the middle piece... P.S. the Ebay kit came with both attachments for the 3.5L and 3.7L, so don't worry.



The only area I saw a lack of quality in was the welding job done on the aluminum pipe. I'm not saying this is such a terrible fault, but make sure to run your finger (or rage) along the inside weld and pick off any loose aluminum. I caught a couple small pieces with my finger as I moved it along the seam and they could've potentially got sucked into the intake. That might've been bad news for the engine.





The MAF sensor is a fairly easy piece to screw back on. It was also the most high-tech MAF I've seen (although to be fair, I've only seen them on Ford and Chevrolet Trucks.



Now make sure to put the supplied rubber protector around the air blockoff plate thing, because it does touch against the battery box.



And after cleaning it up a bit, it's all set to go! Looks great!






The covers all go back on well, but I wouldn't say it fit perfectly over the tube.




Overall impressions... the kit took me 2 hours to install, more than likely because I didn't remove the battery and probably messed around with the bottom bolt on the airbox than I should have. Also, the coolant line rerouting took me a while because I couldn't fit my fingers in there! I also compile the usual bathroom break/text messages/picture taking and so on, so it was really quite simple.

The sound on this thing is incredible too! I couldn't understand what the hell the hype was all about with people saying they didn't know if it increased power, but they just loved the sound. I was in the mindset that I didn't want it if the sound was all it was worth, but I'll be damned, the sound alone is well worth it! I highly recommend it. Also, it seems to smooth out the powerband I noticed and the acceleration generally seems smoother. Does anyone else with a 6MT notice that moderate acceleration seems to produce a few "bumps" in the powerband along the way? They're not noticable to passengers, but it was something I felt every now and then. This intake seems to have cured that, but only time will tell.

 

Even though you didn't disconnect the battery, did you reset your ECU? So it can re-learn it's parameters with the hi flo intake? If you didn't notice any power increase, the ECU may not be pull as much air as it could. The ECU probably thinks you still have that restrictive OEM air filter.

Just curious,

CRAZY KEN

Use a Scanner to reset the ECU! $60-$80 @ Sears...Maybe Harbor Freight has them too!!!

 

Even disconnected the battery and install it back after, the stock ECU will still block all the extra air from the new intake to the engine. You need to do a remap to get a max performance with the intake.

 

This will be the longest comment I made I guess...

You couldn't understand because you didn't experienced it, right?
Stock air box filter, K&N air box filter to the Takeda Intake now, with the K&N filter the car already feel very responsive then the stock filter; changed to the Takeda intake, alot more different, but the intake won't break in until you step to the 5000+rpm, so with Takeda Intake, at the lower rpm the TL is still very lack of response.

Yes, the sound is great but every time you need to hear that sound you need to step past 5000+rpm, but if lower then that, no different at all to the stock...
We just can't bring up the additional 14HP from the takeda intake every time in a daily drive, cause we need to keep up at the high rpm to put in that additional horsepower...

And one more thing, thinking of every time need to past 5000+rpm to hear the "ROAR", except me I know you guys are all rich, but did we think of how many times we have to go to gas station in a week?

I'm not saying the Takeda Intake is a bad product, but I just want to tell everyone, the intake won't bring a big difference except the sounds, and actually all the intakes are like this, it need to past a high rpm to get the additional horsepower. If we want to bring the max power from the intake, then do a remap(changed the stock ECU) or add a throttle booster(to get the intake break in earlier at a lower rpm).

 

Here is my reasoning... The ECU is a fast learner when it comes to reading the MAF, so it's not going to keep the original parameters for over a week, tops. So I would have to be resetting the ECU weekly (not gonna do that) in order to keep getting the new power potential. If anything, this intake justifies the money with the better throttle response and sound.

Also, I argue with ieh in the fact you can't hear the intake except above 5000RPMs. I can distinctly hear it starting at 4000RPMs and then when VTEC hits, it makes it even louder and more distinct. I also have heard the intake sound begin even sooner if I'm in a low-enough gear while moving and hit the throttle hard. I believe I've heard it begin as low as 3500RPM.

 

+1

 

^^^^Agreed

 

I can hear the intake at 3,000k rpm or above. Then again, any good amount of kick will make it audible at 2k too.

 

Exactly, I was thinking about that after I posted above. Any time I put my foot into it I can hear it. I drove a stock SH-AWD this weekend to see and feel the difference compared to mine with the intake and j-pipe. It is without a doubt a night and day difference.

Myself and another guy did a run with mine against his stock SH-AWD..... rolling 40mph in second to 100mph. I pulled away easily. He said that he could hear the car just open up as I pulled away. He said it had a nice deep growl from the exhaust.

I will be putting the test pipe (3rd cat delete) on Friday and am very curious as to what gains if any will be seen or felt.

 

Dyno plz!

 

I wouldn't even know where to begin? If I remember correctly I would need to find one that can handle AWD? I am curious as to what kind of gains all three of my mods together produce if any?

 

If you ask me, the best way to see if there are gains would be a 1/4 mile in similar conditions. Since dynoing the TL SH-AWD is next to impossible, it would make more sence to go to a drag strip and measure 0-60 and 1/4 mile times with trap speed and such. That would give you a good idea. Unfortunately, I'm 2 hours away from a drag strip so it's kind of hard for me to do.

Of you could buy a G-Tech or something similar to get an approximation of the various mods effects.

But I definitely agree, those mods sure do a good difference and I can't imagine the good times prepreludesh could get with his 6MT!

 

any1 looking for a Takeda Intake....i have 1 in the black market for sale

 

So, I installed my Intake today, but also did not remove the battery. There are a couple different posts here saying that you need to remap something to get better performance, but also a post that says it wouldn't matter if you did because this car has a fast learning computer.

Can anyone tell me what the best course of action is?

Is it leave it alone, it is as good as it gets, or do I need to do something else to get maximum performance?

Thanks so much everyone!

 

leave it alone and stomp often. Fuel economy will suffer. Grinning will occur often.

 

037: Yes, much grinning has occurred. It sounds amazing, and it feels a little bit quicker as well.

The install was not the easiest that I've done, but overall I'm really happy that I went with this intake.

 

I'd like to follow-up with the somewhat negative feedback I got when posting that I installed the intake without removing the battery cables at all...

I recently recorded getting 29.0 MPG (404 miles with 13.9 gallons at fillup) with a mods list that includes the Takeda Intake, the Excelerate J-Pipe and the Excelerate test-pipe. That's a .5 MPG increase over just the J-pipe alone. However, the MID's calculations are repeatedly off by almost one full MPG less than what the car actually gets. (for instance, the MID read 27.7 MPG when in reality, it got 29.0 MPG). I view this as a result of not resetting the engine computer, but I don't have 100% full proof that not resetting it is the cause of such a misreading by the MID.

I'm concerned that if I reset it, perhaps my MPG's will actually decrease. Any thoughts?

 

This is a good example of gains, i don't care what a dyno reads. (especially with our sh-awd craziness) I like to hear real world results such as this. Hopefully we can get more "tests" such as this to affirm or deny measurable gains if any. Sound alone is worth it. Good job TLNV!

 

Also kudos to Prepreludesh's awesome "how to" on the intake install! I was this close to leaving my battery in as well!

 

Just sent my stock intake back to Takeda they are working on a new filter for our Takeda Intakes. Also, they are looking into doing an exhaust as well.

 

like a drop in filter?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLlcJ_7sudA

 

Why would Takeda need your stock intake to produce a new filter for their SRI aftermarket intake?

 

Maybe they want to make a filter that would be more similar to the OEM air box as in using more of the cold air coming in from besides the radiator instead of soaking the hot air from the engine bay?

 

*Insert flaming here* When exactly is any intake going to be soaking in the hot air from the engine bay when in motion above 10mph? The engine has so many openings around the bumper, headlights, hood, grille, etc that air from the outside is always swirling around the engine. I don't think it's quite the sealed, convection oven a majority of the people think it is. Regardless, as soon as I get my Kiwi adapter and the program "REV" on my iPad, I'll settle the argument of how much of a difference stock air intake temps are from the takeda when the car is in motion.

 

I think it would be a great piece of data to have for sure.

But all I did was giving my thoughts as why Takeda want a stock airbox nothing more. I hope your flaming is more of a joke than anything and if it's not, it's quite uncalled...

Anyway, let us know what you found, I'm interested to learn about the actual air temp as much as you do!

 

just installed my takeda..straight up grizzly. love the sound, throttle seems slightly more responsive but my gas mileage is way down since the pedal seems to find itself on the floor much more often now!

 

I spoke with XLR8 and they said the takeda intake will fit on the 3.7 L. Has anyone done this on their 3.7L?

 

Ummmmm, every single person on this post that has the SH-AWD...

 

this is 3.7...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLlcJ_7sudA

 

Just got my Intake installed a couple days ago. All I can say is 'sweet jesus mother of god' it sounds amazing!

Did anyone else notice when you are accelerating hard with the paddles (5AT), the car 'pulls' right after you shift? I'm almost certain it wasn't there before I installed the intake.

Kind of feels like how the 3G TL-S paddle shifts.

 

the car pulls...if you shift into 1st or 2nd. Ok, maybe 3rd too. My favorite are the 2-1 shift at 20mph which get any pedestrian out of your way and the 50mph 3-2 as that makes any people merging onto the highway merge straight off!