My 2005 TL has a dead battery if I do not drive it for several days. This has happened 4-5 times. No lights were left on, etc. Battery is only 6 months old. This happened with my original battery also. Dealer has no explanation and says everything checks out fine. Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

It may be this, even though you have an 05:

http://www.in.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/SB/B08-057.pdf

You can find more in the 3G garage. Welcome to AZ

 

I was having the same problem with my '07 TL. Turned out to be the Bluetooth Hands Free Link was not shutting down completely. They are replacing under warranty.

 

05 TL battery drain TSB

 

Same issue here; I'm 99% sure it's the HFL. My car still shows up on my phone 3 days after sitting in the garage unused. Seems like it's not shutting down.

Taking to the dealer thursday.

 

Turn off your cell phone when you get to your destination.. at least for a short while. Also, make sure your outside temperature display is not flatlined.

 

Dealer did a full electrical check then replaced the HFL after finding it was drawing 250ma when the car was shutoff.


For anyone else having issues go get it fixed; don't jump through hoops trying things to get around the issue. The post above mine is what I call jumping through hoops...


I'm still under warranty but in case anyone was wondering; I peeked at the repair costs; $550 for unit; I didn't see how much they charged for shop time. Also remember that was dealer cost...

 

I have a 2005 TL with the HFL unit that just died and was drawing 0.25 amps idle. I unplugged the HFL unit and the draw dropped to 0.03amps. So that is what killed my optima battery. Anyone know if the 0.25 amp power draw is normal for a fully functioning unit?? If it is i'm not sure i want to replace the unit since I can't leave my car for more than a couple days without it draining the battery, not to mention the unit is quite expensive. $526 from a local dealer and $400 from online stores.

 

0.25 amps = 250 ma. Same problem, same current drain. As SouthernBoy mentions, a flatlined temperature readout can cause a similar problem, although I don't recall anyone reporting this happening in cold weather.

 

the hands free draws about 225 millamps normaly. the problem is that it stays on. this keeps everything else on nav, radio,homelink. acuralink, ect. cause up to 3000millamps or 3 amp of draw. which can cause the battery to die in hours. want a fast check

park the car out side. roll the front windows down and lock the doors. let it seat for 15 mins. come back and don't unlock the doors or open them. reach in a touch the the hand free link , which is infront of the map light and behind the rear view. ifs it hot there your problem if not then look else where.

 

i just came back from the dealer today to have them diagnose my battery drain problem. Turns out in my case, the culprit was the Mobile Guardian device (similar to lo-jack). After calling Mobile Guardian support and trying to find out why this is happening, they explained to me that they had to switch over to a digital signal for their satellite tracker due to the recent FCC regulations. They said a notice was sent out to all of their customers to ask if they want to upgrade their existing analog unit to a digital unit for $250. I was angry when i heard this news. First, i never received any emails or mailed notice about this change. Second, when I purchased the service with my new car, it was a lifetime subscription. There is no way I am paying the upgrade price. So there lies my problem. I talked to the sales manager and the finance manager who sold me the service initially about my dilemma. They said they will call Mobile Guardian on my behalf and will try to sort this out. Hopefully, my dealer will pay for the upgrade unit for me or refund me the price of the service. For those of you who also have a battery drain problem and it's not a HFL or battery problem, most likely, it will be the GPS tracking device.

sorry for my long rant.

 

Janesha,
based on these answers, if it were me: I'd use a digital multimeter to look for current draw when the car is off. Then pull the Hands Free link fuse (if that doesn't take out any other required systems to drive). Then check for current draw again. If you don't have a meter, just pull the fuse and see if the car starts in a week. Just thinking out loud.

 

is it fuse #6?

 

Guys,

I bought an Acura TL '08 3 months back (still under factory warranty) and it's battery died yesterday! All I did was to come home and park in the garage. And the car was dead in morning. Well thats not the biggest problem. I got is jump started and battery cam back to life. The issue is now the Audio won't work. Pressing the Audio button just doesn't do anything. Neither do the any of the Load, Eject or AUX functions work. Does anyone has a similar issue and how you resolved it?

Thanks

 

You have to enter the security codes once the battery goes dead. If you don't have them in the glove box you can get them from the dealer with your VIN number.

 

My battery was 100 percent dead the other day and the battery is a few months old so I am suspecting that I could have the HFL problem that is running down the battery. I have read on several posts that if you feel the console where the HFL module is it will feel hot when the car has just been sitting for a while. When I touch my console it is usually warm most of the time after the car has been sitting for a while compared to the extreme right side of console. Does that indicate a problem? Just wondered since many have said it would be hot to touch. I will probably get a multimeter and actually test the amperage drain with number 6 fused pulled, but was wondering if warm was normal when car has been sitting.

 

My battery was 100 percent dead the other day and the battery is a few months old so I am suspecting that I could have the HFL problem that is running down the battery. I have read on several posts that if you feel the console where the HFL module is it will feel hot when the car has just been sitting for a while. When I touch my console it is usually warm most of the time after the car has been sitting for a while compared to the extreme right side of console. Does that indicate a problem? Just wondered since many have said it would be hot to touch. I will probably get a multimeter and actually compare the amperage drain with the number 6 fused installed and then pulled, but was wondering if warm was normal when car has been sitting.

 

I don't think the HFL bezel ever gets hot to the touch-- just warmer than the surrounding plastic.

Best to use the multimeter, as the HFL is programmed to stay active for 30 minutes after the ignition is turned off (so people can talk with the engine off). The defective HFLs fail to turn off more than 30 minutes after the ignition is cut.

 

I was waiting more than 30 minutes. I will have to check it with a multimeter. I was just wondering why hot was mentioned in several places. This morning when I went out there was frost on the windshield, but it was "defrosted" in the map light area

 

which fuse is the hfl and would just pulling the fuse get rid of this problem I'm going to be on my 3rd battery and I havent owned my 08 3G for even 2 yrs yet.

 

I had the same problem too and found that it indeed was the HFL unit that was draining the battery. I just completely removed it from the top light console by the mirror and it resolved the issue. It's easy to do.

 

My hfl is not working and was thinking of just disconnecting it or removing it as well since I don't really use blue tooth but was afraid it might affect other features such as navigation. Does anyone know what else it might affect by just disconnecting it?

 

Just the voice recognition part of navi (you'll be disconnecting the microphone). Everything else will work the same.

 

Ok thanks, I can do without that for now. Tomorrow morning I will take a shot at disconnecting

 

Hi Everybody,
I'm an Acurazine newbie and have not posted here yet, so please advise. I found this battery drain discussion and thought I'd mention my problem here.
My 2006 TL (new) battery has been dying after three days. It's not the hands free link; I had the HFL problem months ago and unplugged it. But the battery is draining again. I measured current at 620 milliamps with everything off. I pulled fuses one at a time while measuring current. The current dropped to near zero when I pulled fuse #15 under the hood. It is 40A. The description says "BackUP, ACC".
I thought this would be for the backup lights, but that is a 7.5A fuse, #7 under the hood. I can't find fuse #15 in my Haynes manual, which has incomplete electrical schematics.
"ACC" stands for Accessory, the little 12V plugs which I am not using.
Does anyone know what circuit is "BackUP"?? Whatever it is, it's killing the battery!
Thanks,
Smirkle

 

I did some Googling and I found more comments on http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2012/...goes-dead.html
He says fuses 5,6,7,8 & 9 in the interior fuse box are all powered by fuse #15 in the underhood fuse box. So I plugged in Fuse #15 and pulled these interior fuses one at a time. I found that
Fuse #6 (Interior lights) draws 290mA
Fuse #7 (Backup lights) draws 360mA
I am stuck here. I saw another post on Acurazine saying you had to wait put the ammeter in series with the battery ground and wait 15 minutes for the 'ECM' to go into sleep mode, and do a few other things to make sure nothing else is drawing current. So I am waiting to get a battery clamp to make the connection to the meter...

 

Smirkle, the link that you provided in my other post solved my problem

http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2012/...goes-dead.html

disconnect the HFL, battery drain goes away. It takes ~15 minutes to do.

 

Hi all, new to site.
08 TL with same problem thought it was battery. Dlr SM did courtesy chk of battery (factory 3 1/2 yr old) showed 12.76v 472cca @135 deg. SM says battery good, told me of HFL issue and to disconnect it. Car at rest should only show draw of 50ma. Meter showed draw of @300ma. Disconnected HFL, draw dropped to a fluctuating 22-34ma when car was at rest. Battery volt with car running showed 14.5v indicating alt working. Didn't use car for 2 days, car hesitated causing electronics to reset but started. Had to re-enter radio and navi codes. Noticed ground battery cable had some corrosion on wire entering loop connector attached to fender as well as some broken wire strands. Can anyone tell if the ground cable would cause hesitation in starting or if the battery just can't hold its charge?? Thanks

 

Yeah, I had an old VW with a braided ground cable that was rotten. Current won't flow through a high resistance, so car won't start.

 

I looked at this '06 Acura TL battery leakage problem again today. I found that leakage drops to 40mA (good) when I pull either F15 under the hood or F6 in the cabin. F15 feeds F6, apparently. Acura manual says F6 is for interior lights. With F6 in, current is 230mA. So the extra current draw is about 190mA. With F6 out, the interior (dome) lights are out. I don't know what else is fed by F6. I need a real wiring diagram.

 

Smirkle, if u have a small hose clamp and leads with alligator clips you can hook multimeter up to neg cable and post. Also make sure hood latch is closed( if hood open), door jam button is depressed (if door open) and car locked to activate alarm. Then wait about 15-20 min for car to go into sleep mode.

 

Thank you, saggipaul
I was reading that the HFL shares F6 with the Interior Lights. I have unplugged the HFL and left it mounted.
Is there anything in the menu that I should change after disabling the HFL?

 

Your welcome smirkle, FYI
I re-checked battery draw, still showing 22-34mA. Still old battery. Friend told me to check car battery voltage again...Key in the 'on' position then turn a/c and headlights on, re-check battery voltage with multimeter, if gradual drop to below 10v, battery needs replacement. Voltage immediately dropped, battery isn't able to hold charge any longer. Replaced battery and neg cable.
So far so good, still same draw with HFL disconnected and battery shows 12.8v after sitting overnite. for now.
Dlr SM advised as long as draw remains under 50mA, should not have any drain on battery. Will be replacing HFL.........

 

What 'menu' are you referring to? As long as HFL module plug in interior light box upper headliner remains disconnected, should have no more excessive draw unless different issue. How is your a/c relay? I heard that a/c relay would create draw of over @400mA when car at rest.

 

The menu that you step through with the oil, mileage, hfl, etc. Just wondering if it is doing something funny.
The current draw is 190mA through F6, interior lights. So I don't think it is the A/C relay

 

At 190mA, I would suspect something still on unless veh not completely at rest. Are you getting draw from neg battery post & cable or thru F6. I heard each time you pull and replace fuse, car comes back out of rest and then looks for ground before going back into rest.

 

smirkle, I only disconnected the HFL plug in upper interior light panel. Didn't hear anything as to F6 or doing anything to menu. SM at Dlr maintains problem is w/HFL since my parasitic draw is now 22-34mA. Only thing in his experience, the draw was constant, not fluctuating as in my case. I found other forums saying fluctuation is normal, could be my meter. IDK. Will see what happens.

 

If you remove the hfl plug, does the leds/lights around that area still work at night? TIA.

 

Yes.

 

Thanks bro. I ma do this tomorrow.