I agree... disconnect the HFL.. easy job to do...just be careful when disconnecting the components leading to the HFL, try not to pull from the wire harnesses.

 

Hey just wanna say thanks again. Finally got a chance to do it today and all the lights still work at night with the hfl module removed .

 

Wait, so what does it mean if your outside temperature just shows the flat fines ???

 

Not sure, but not related to HFL unit being disconnected.

 

That means that your TPMS either senses a low PSI in your tires or you got a flat. In either case, you gotta fix the tire/tires.

 

I disconnected my HFL module & was very bummed to realize my auto dim doesn't work now ;-( navi & everything else works tho. However I'm still having an intermittent no start problem and as far as I have been able to narrow down it only seems to happen when there's moisture in the air(after storms) sometimes I can jump it off in the morning & it'll be fine for weeks/months..this week tho I have had to jump it every for the past 3-4 days, sometimes multiple times a day. If anybody has any ideas or suggestions that'd be awesome. I'm going to check a couple more things (relays, coils,PCM) because I'm baffled at this point. My 06 TL 3.2 Navi (126k) has had all her services, timing belt, plugs ect. However I procrastinated the replacement of RH & front motor mounts & wondering if something got loose letting moisture in. My procrastination cost me a new air cleaner tube & hood insulation but cannot visually see anything else.

 

I have been experiencing the same issue and today I found out it was my AC Relay. Used a volt meter to find the drain on my battery. Hope this helps.

 

Please post location and p/n. Thank you.

 

I just have to say thank you to everyone who actually takes out the time to post on these forums. I have had this battery drain issue for about 4 years and have fixed multiple things and constantly think it's one thing or the other. I go through 2 batteries a year and at this point want to get rid of the car. But have done so much to it I feel it will last if i fix this one last issue. I think my HFL is draining my battery also because we have attempted to fix whatever else we think is he problem. I hope it's easy like others say it is. Will try to have my husband and I do it together.

 

Oh yes, I will not be purchasing an Acura again. This problem is very inconvenient. Not to mention the EGR valve also needs replacing every 5 years. It's bull****

 

Thanks to all posters. I'm a new member who just started experiencing the battery drain issue in my 2007 TSX.
Put in a new battery - couple weeks later it was dead. Thought it might be an alternator issue, so I had it checked. Charging system checks out OK, so it is probably a current draw - sounds like most likely the HFL.
I will troubleshoot further, but you have pointed me in the right direction.
Thanks again!

 

OK - removed the HFL/Bluetooth module and monitored battery voltage for several days. Down to 4.5 volts after four days! Any ideas what else could be causing this?

 

Check the A/C compressor clutch relay-- problems with it are probably the 2nd most frequent cause of electrical drains I've seen on this forum.

Welcome to AZ.

 

+1 I would check that as well, could be bad relay.

 

Sounds good, but I don't have a manual or any other source of information. I checked all of the relays in the "fuse box" under the hood and none of them seem to be the problem.
Is the A/C relay somewhere else?
Thanks for your help.

 

This is under the hood fuse box. See pic below.

 

Thank you very much!

 

OK, I checked the ac fan clutch relay and it is OK.
Isolated the problem to the 40A fuse labeled "Backup/ACC". Pulled this fuse and drove the car: radio/navigation/touchscreen does not work as well as the buttons that control garage door opener, etc. Not sure what else (as if that wasn't enough!).
Any ideas or information would be greatly appreciated. This is beginning to look like it is going to be expensive.
Help!

 

Couple things to check.
1) It says that fuse is connected to under the hood #7 fuse. Check that one.
2) It also connected to Underdash fuse box fuses 5-9. Check them one by one, by testing them in series like you've done before to see the voltage drop, also check their condition. It could be from 2 common things, a) Hands Free Link or b) Your trunk light is on even when it's closed
By the way, make sure everything is off. All your radio, AC, courtesy light, etc is off.

 

Thanks, I'll check that stuff out. BTW - what manual are you using and can you tell me where I can get one?

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...manual-900262/

There's a link to dropbox file with Full Service Manual.

 

Thanks, but these seem to be for a TL. I have a 2007 TSX. Do you have a link for TSX manuals?

 

How long was your warranty for?

 

How do I make sure my HFL is completely shut down?

 

You physically remove it from the car.

 

I've gone through 3 batteries in 3 years; checked alternator, ignition replace and checked starter. Looked online and saw the HFL issue draining power. I checked mine today, it was warm. I followed Youtube video and disconnected.
Could the battery be damaged and need to be replaced? It works every time it's jump started. I bought a Noco GB40 for the meantime just in case.

 

Should be ok but just have it tested to be sure.

 

Thanks. Going to drive 80 miles tomorrow; see if charged battery needs a jump.

 

I found this and have not tried, yet! Hope I do not get in trouble for re-posting someone else's work! Clueless.


How to repair the HFL Bluetooth Module for ACURA TL 2006 in 20 minutes

I just repaired my Bluetooth Unit for my 2006 ACURA TL. So I thought I write up this blog to help others who like me know nothing about how to fix cars, fix this unit in 5 minutes at a cost of less than $2. The cost to do this repair at the dealership is about $400.

I was getting the BOOTING UP message when I would go try to get to the phone menus and the buttons on the steering wheel would not work.

The area where the bluetooth is housed right next to the homelink garage door opener was getting warm even when the car was off for days. My battery is luckily OK however my battery is only 2 months old but others have had issues with their battery in similar cases so if you have this issue and dont fix it, your battery could just die while the car is sitting there since the unit basically is shorting the wires.

Keep in mind I have not soldered anything since I made my TV PONG Game back in 1980s. I never repair anything on my car, always at the dealer, I cant even change my oil. So if I did it, anyone can do it.

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility that this may work for you or not. I take no responsibility for any damaged caused to your car or any harm to you. If you don't agree, stop reading.

I bought the 220uF 25V 22uF 50V high temp capacitor from my local frys electronics store for $1.49. I also bought a solder gun for $4.99 because I didn't have one. I also "picked up" about 1" of solder iron from the trash on the floor carpet at the electronics store near where they had all types of solder wire on the shelf (lol). Here is the capacitor on Amazon (corrected link) if you want to buy it online. I also bought a since I didn't have one.

Here are the pictures of my 20 minute fix:

Step 1. Remove the black piece containing the lights and sunroof switch (I think Microphone is in this as well). There are lots of videos on youtube on how to pry this open, there are no screws. Push the tiny button and unplug the two black and green connectors.










Step 7. Bend the legs on the capacitor and cut them as shown. One leg shorter than the other one. Note which leg is closer to the WHITE STRIP on the capacitor. The longer leg is the one by the white strip. This is important![img]file:///C:\Users\Mom\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\cl ip_image001.jpg[/img]



Step 8. Solder the capacitor on the board. I did it really quick, I don't know what heat could do to the rest of the stuff on the board so the solder gun only hit the board 2-3 seconds at most. See the connections made on the capacitor legs:[img]file:///C:\Users\Mom\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\cl ip_image002.jpg[/img]


Step 9. Place the daughter board back on, push it all the way through. Place the two boards back in the plastic trim. Watch out for the clip I marked by the arrow. This board does not get screwed on. Then put the black cover back on and put the three screws back on with the T10 screws. [img]file:///C:\Users\Mom\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\cl ip_image003.jpg[/img]

Step 10. Go back to the car, plug in the bluetooth green connector, screw the grey trim back in the car with 4 hex screw. Plug in the black connector and pop in the black piece that holds the lights. Lastly, plug in the green connector and put the sunroof switch back on.

 

Running out of options, took fuse out of interior light (as front/lower door lights wouldn't shut off) Took fuse out for accessory socket as I had my GPS stuck in there...may have damaged on taking out. HFL, I popped off casing and disabled. Still no power on start...but holds charge as I can drive 70miles with no issue (so not alternator?) ANYONE???? LOL

 

 

If your HFL repeatedly deeply discharged your battery many times, especially during sub zero temps, your battery may need replacement. Only a stress test (walmart, autozone does one for free) can tell you if your battery is bad. Or you could get this and make sure you never need a jump during a cold winter morning.



In addition, it is not a good idea to bring a deeply discharged battery to 100% using your alternator. The alternator was not designed for that and, depending on lots of variables, could be damaged.

 

Yes, had battery checked...runs around 14.3-ish. I picked up a new battery 3 days ago.

 

New battery is Hot & ready! Nice! Guessing the condition of the old battery "failed"?

 

Are the lights staying off? Thanks.

 

I had same problem with my 2006. I pulled fuses, disconnected the Handsfree link, BUT in my case, a few months back, I needed the clasps replaced as it was slipping off, so the shop I went to put in copper clamps; which caused corrosion and affected current. It took a couple weeks and a couple of mechanics couldn't figure out. But the mech put the lead clamps on. Sucked!

 

I have an 06 one owner, and had a 99 G2 from same owner. both had battery terminal issues; I believe in part from battery terminal size?
The 06 someone replaced the battery and put new claps - battery cable terminals / ( clasps your words?) . only 130, 000 miles. I replaced both cables with national name brand, (not all the same. might buy Acura part next time for sure!). the old positive cable was full with corrosion the nearly the full length!

 

Doe ls anyone know where the hfl module is located in Acura 2010 TL SH-AWD?

 

Best to check the 4G TL(2009-2014) forum at: https://acurazine.com/forums/fourth-...2009-2014-123/.
However, the 4G TL HFL is apparently not as troublesome as for the 3G TL, as there is nothing listed for the HFL in the 4G Service Department links.

This is the module per the parts diagram: https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...0-tk4-a42.html
I can't tell where it is located in the car, though.

Welcome to AZ, and G/L.

 

Newbie here as well and glad to see all the tips. My problem is with fuse #6. After I pulled fuse #6 the battery problem disappeared. I ruled out several components connect to fuse #6 by unplug each of them - HFL, keyless receiver unit, map lights, roof console, but can't find where the remaining are. Anyone can help identify where I can find courtesy light, ignition key light, trunk light, vanity mirror lights are?