Ok, so I got a dyno done of my car today. I have
-AEM V2
-Magnaflow mufflers
-UR Pulley (Stock size)

I thought I would have seen more power. My car is the 6spd and the pulls were done in 3rd gear. The Dyno was an AWD dyno. Was that the problem? I noticed that if you watch the wheels in the second pull they don't seem like they're in sync. You know when your wheel starts spinning so fast that it looks like it switches direction...well the front does it and then the back like there is a delay. Is that a problem?I chose this dyno cause I posted over in the Regional forum that I needed suggestions on where to go and no one said anything. And this was the only one I knew of.

I was expecting @230hp compared to what others have gotten on the forum with similar mods so I am wondering what's up?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOKgYWbKyXw

 

Do you happen to know which brand of dyno it was? It varies pretty heavily based on that alone.

 

I thought 6 speeds should be dyno'd in 4th gear??

 

Very true. I had a dyno done in 3rd and 4th. The difference was something like 20hp on a Mustang dyno. (20+ in 4th vs. 3rd which was lower)

 

That's bad HP for your TL. Stock WHP is like 205, with full exhaust system you're talking 250 WHP.

 

It was a superflow dyno and it was third gear. Does it being in 3rd make a difference?

 

ummm yes...it should be done in 4th gear...4th gear is the closest one to 1:1 ratio.

 

Ouch waste of money :x

 

yea

5AT = 3rd Gear
6MT = 4th Gear

I dyno'ed my 5AT in 4th gear once, and got a CRAZY high TQ number, but my horsepower was ridiculously low.. and the engine cut-out at 5k rpm

 

Full exhaust getting you 45 whp? I highly doubt that number.

 

^ by full exhaust

Pre-Cat Deletes
J-Pipe
3rd Cat Delete (or Hi-Flow)
Catback Exhaust


Very feasible

 

Ahhh yes...the pre-cats...got me on that one.

 

This sucks.

So it's pretty unanimous that this was the reason my numbers sucked?

Opel...Can you explain why that's good? My buddy that went with me said something about that too, but I didn't understand why it was important.

I can call them back and let them know they made a mistake and see if they won't redo it in 4th. What do you think they'll say?

 

I still have all my cats and the stock J-pipe. I guess you can say I just have a catback.

 

Closer to 1:1 is the most ideal to dyno most vehicles at.

 

I dynoed in 3rd and pulled 262hp & 230tq, ACU-RATE dynoed the same day in 3rd as well and pulled over 280hp. This was on a typically low reading mustang awd dyno in fayetteville. I think there may be more to the low numbers than just the gearing. Was there a fan positioned in front of the car? Opening the hood will also help.

 

I don't recall there being a fan. And I wondered why the hood wasn't open. I just didn't think it mattered.

I have 70k miles on the car. So I was wondering if something age related might be hurting the power. Maybe it needs a valve adjustment?

 

Having a fan blowing and the hood open is going too allow your engine to run cooler to create more power. As for the valve adjustment i'm not sure, but I do know I have the same miles and have never done one. There are plenty of guys on here from Charlotte, I would get with them and find out where they dyno, & try it again.

 

You could always make the trip to Epic Motorsports in fayetteville, thats where myself and ACU-RATE dyno. The guys there are pretty cool, its about $70 for 3 pulls with an afr reading

 

I had my 06 6MT stock dyno-ed with 3rd and 4th. 3rd was higher and it was the last pull I did.

Hoping to do another in 2-3 weeks after the comp resets from the UR underdrive crank pulley.

You guys recommend 4th gear though?

 

always dyno a 6 speed in 4th. i put down 215 in 3rd and 243 in 4th

 

That is most likely what I'll have to do. Especially since they are familiar with the car. And $70 is a better price too. The place I went to hooked up their afr equipment but it kept malfunctioning at 6000 rpm. You can see what it does on the computer screen in the video.

 

That's a big difference!! It's also consistant with the differences others have had in similar situations.

 

ima see if i find a dyno within the next 2 weeks here in nyc. it'll be my first time dynoing and i have plently of mods on the TL. and going from WDP A/t to AM M/t, the M/t just feels like the tires cant stay on the ground!

 

U must smoke crack, sorry he will never get those #s on a base tl with those mods.

 

I don't know for sure that any of the regulars have had their TL dyno'd locally.

I've searched and think there is a place in Ft Mill and one or two others, besides 3SX.

http://www.pro-dyno.net/index.php

http://www.dynojet.com/dyno_centers/...utomotive.aspx

I'm sorry to hear tha 3SX didn't seem to do your pulls correctly. I would try and see if they'll give you a re-run.

 

So I called the shop back to make sure that they were doing the pulls in 3rd. They were. And so I told them that they did it wrong and were supposed to do it in 4th. They told me it didn't matter what gear it was in and that their dyno was better than other dynos and could tell the difference. So according to them you guys don't know what you're talking about. They suck! I trust you guys more with all your experience over them.

They said that their dyno usually gives #'s up to 15% lower than other dynos and that their #'s are more accurate. WTF!!

I asked them if they wanted to prove me wrong and let me do another pull and see if I don't get more HP in 4th gear. They said "Sure.... for $80." then I said I just needed one pull to prove my point and they said, "No problem, .... that'll still be $80." Double WTF!!!

Forget these guys. I'll never go there again. Aziners don't go here! 3sx performance.

 

Those guys sound like retards. Which gear matters as gearing effects how your power will ramp up. Its like trying to dyno your car in 6th gear...pointless lol. But still I wouldn't go to that shop again. Most of the shops around my place will give you the option. There dyno is more accurate? It could have been calibrated wrong? You might want to look into that. Anyway find somewhere with a dyno dynamics or a mustang and run it again. Hopefully the numbers should look better.

 

It does matter what gear you are in. Last time i dynoed mine, i made high 230's in 3rd gear, then i made 256 in 4th gear. Just intake and exhaust on a 3.2 6mt. Do it again in 4th gear, you may gain 20hp or so

 

it should be done in 4th gear for the simple reason of getting the most accurate readings...4th gear is the one thats closest to 1:1 ratio in our car, and in fact, it many other cars. thats the end of the story...i dont care what the shops tell you, i dont care how much they know, i dont care how many years they've been doing this. if, when you go there, they dont ask you what gear is ur closest to 1:1 ratio, then they dont have a fucking clue about what they're doing.

this is why i hate going to shops for anything...there's some great ppl out there with terrific knowledge and also never hesitate to take the customer's input, but then there's the cocky idiots that think cause u went there, they must know it and you dont...dont ever be afraid to stand up and ask what you want, if they can't meet ur expectations, then go to the next one.

 

Yep. Agreed with Opel. Now why you want to be close to 1:1 is thats when the engine and trans are pretty much locked together. The easy way to see this is that you usually see the tach match the speedo at this point as in they crawl pretty evenly. Go to most dyno videos and you will see this phenomenon.

 

Tell them about this thread and that if they don't rectify the problem they will likely never get any business from anyone on this forum. Similar thing happened to a buddy of mine, he did that and they took care of him.

Everyone already said it but it absolutely matters what gear your in and if they think otherwise they're idiots. Good luck

 

That sounds cool! I'll watch for that.

 

thats some good friggin numbers for 3rd gear

 

^^^ interesting things to know. i'll make sure to dyno my car too in 4th gear this coming spring when i get my tl 6-speed swap with lsd!!! yay anyway from reading threads i take it that mustang dynos are the most accurate dyno for our cars, and dynojet reads higher hp than the mustang dyno? correct me if im wrong.

 

dynojet is the industry standard. dynojet is the most accurate

 

You must smoke crack if you don't think pre-cat deletes, j-pipe, full catback, 3rd-cat delete, does not get you over 30 WHP. Dyno proven by whoever has them.

Catback - 8 WHP
Jpipe - 8 WHP
Pre-cats/3rdcat deletes - 30WHP

 

I hope that was sarcasm. I would use a Mustang/Dyno Dynamics anyday other than a dynojet. But if I wanted to impress someone I would just throw it on a dynojet.

 

There are 2 main types of dyno, retarder dynos and inertia dynos. Inertia dynos use heavy rollers of a known mass. The wheel power of the car is used to accelerate the rollers as fast as possible. Given that the mass of the rollers is known, force = mass x acceleration allows you measure the rate of acceleration an thus calculate the force.

The 2nd type of dyno is a retarder dyno. A retarder dyno uses a non contact eddy current brake to retard a light roller with little inertia. The dyno system allows the rollers to accelerate at a fixed rate when the power of the car is applied to them. This means if you dyno a 100bhp car, or a 1000bhp car, the acceleration rate is constant. A retarder dyno uses a load cell to calculate the tractive effort at the roller surface.

Personally i much prefer retarder dynos. Dyno Dynamics, Mustang (new ones- old skool are inertia iirc), Mainline dyno log, and Land and Sea etc are retarder dynos. Maha, Hoffman, Dynojet etc are inertia.

An inertia dyno is very dependant upon gear ratio. You need to run the car as close to 1:1 a possible. If you dont and say you run the car with a mechanical gearing advantage, say in like 2nd gear, the car will accelerate very fast, the rollers will accelerate very quickly due to the mechanical advantage of the gearing, and a huge power figure will be read. This means that the power number can be 'frigged' up or down by gear selection. Additionally, most inertia dynos calculate transmission loss via a coast down method. Lets say the test has been conducted in as close as 1:1 gear as possible, so the 'wheels' figure is as realistic as possible, however, then it can all get a bit sketchy. Irrespective of any debate about accuracy of coast down method, what happens if the operator does the coast down with the handbrake applied, or even the foot brake? You get a mahoosive flywheel number.

Retarder dynos use direct measurement (via the load cell) and a controlled acceleration rate and most use modelling to transfer from wheel power to flywheel power, as opposed to coast down.

 

^ damn man.... do you build or sell Dyno's? .... lot of good information