Sheefo2k

First question, can anyone confirm the minimum allowable rotor width or thickness to replace a rotor?
Now, the fun question, OEM genuine Honda Acura part? or do you have personal experience with aftermarket rotors and pads? If so, how many miles do you have on your aftermarket setup and which brand did you go with?

Car:
Type and brand of brakes (OEM Genuine Honda Acura or Aftermarket):
How many miles:
Easy or hard miles:
Review?

Thank you in advance

robpp

iTrader: (2)

centric rotors and stock pads

thoiboi

Autozone Max Gold or whatever they call it now. .


Lifetime replacement.

aka free brakes for life.

Sheefo2k

Really? Have you had any issues with them? The lifetime warranty is nice but I would rather get something that will last and take a beating. The TSX is a fairly light weight car and it would take a lot to warp a rotor.

Sheefo2k

This might not be a bad option. I had great luck with the oem rotors and pads. I just don't want to drop the money on the genuine oem rotors unless I have to.
I am also considering just a pad replacement and fluid flush for now. Safe the rotors for later. Any one know the minimum thickness to replace a rotor?

TSX1012m6

Centric rotors are not cut near the axle, there will be a big rust ring. I hate it. Might go OEM next.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

I have no idea what you are saying; the Centric rotors I have on my TL have barely a trace of rust on them, the OEM rotors have rust all over the place.

TSX1012m6

I'll grab a photo. The centric rotorss surface area goes beyond just what the pad touches. The OEM rotors only have a surface area of just enough for the pad itself.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, gotta call BS on that; if anything, the pads are wrong on your car.

Sheefo2k

Only one way to settle this. Pictures.

thoiboi

Sheefo2k

Great to know. I will do more research on the autozone brakes. Did you get your pads from them as well?

BROlando

The factory pads have the best blend possible of low dust, long life, performance, temp resistance, initial bite, cost, etc.

So...that's an easy choice if you want.

If you choose an aftermarket pad, then figure out what you want the pad to do. To gain more of one thing means compromising on other aspects. Example: Want more performance than OEM? Its possible if you can accept more dust and lower life span.

That kind of thing.

The only reason to deviate from OEM is if you want more OR less of some aspect.

If you're not looking for something in particular, just buy the factory pads.

Any blank rotor with a rust barrier is a fine choice, though. Factory, aftermarket, "performance", whatever you want...it pretty much works the same.

General Vodka

no need for drilled or slotted rotors. They are just for looks anyways.

Sheefo2k

Do you have any information on the minimum rotor thickness before switching rotors?

BROlando

Nope. It should be stamped on the rotor.

Not something I pay much attention to. For many reasons, I use new rotors with every pad change.

They're cheap. Pads need to mate to the rotor...and this is MUCH easier with a fresh surface, etc.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

^This! 'Nuff said.

thoiboi

agreed