edeekeos

Had a swap done just put in another j32a1, and ever since iv been have some odd issues.

I get an almost constant misfire from between 1300-2100rpm, anything below, or above is perfect though. CEL has been on since right after the swap. Also the TCS light pops on when it misses. Car runs great when im in the throttle, but cruising and taking off slow it studders. OBDII codes read cyl. 1/4/5 misfire, multiple cyl. misfire, and electronic ignition system (or something along the lines.)

I have replaced the coil packs, plugs (NGK R's, gapped at .040), EGR valve, Seafoamed, fuel injector cleaner, air filter (K&N CAI), fuel pressure regulator, (and all motor mounts have been replaced not that this pertains to the subject at hand). At this point, im lost with where to look next. I have had fuel pumps die before, and it was usually loss of power at higher revs, or no fuel, at all. Also, doesn't seem like a clogged fuel filter, because that would usually cause loss of high revs as well.

My guess possibly lies with maybe a sticking fuel injector, Throttle body positioning sensor, or Crank, or Cam shaft positioning sensor? Maybe ECU? Or even the IACV?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

(*1st engine, timing belt snapped, and pistons hit valves.)

tri2tun

iTrader: (5)

My friend's bimmer just had a similar problem. It turns out that his fuel line was scratched and wasn't spraying enough fuel - maybe you can inspect for that? He only had to replay a short bit of the hose

edeekeos

Ill have to have a look. if i get some extra time today, i plan on replacing the upper and lower intake manifold, TB, injectors, and rails. Ill be sure to inspect lines as well. Thanks.

fsttyms1

did you do a compression test on this new engine? Id do that first and check the valve gaps

thinhthan

yea it could be you need a valve adjustment cause i had that same prob and i readjusted the valves and it went away

edeekeos

they guy who did the swap checked compression, and said everything looked great as far as that goes, but who really knows how much validity is behind that statement.

how hard is it to do a valve adjustment, and what all parts does it entail? can it be done in an apartment parking lot?

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

i had the same exact problem. i changed the injector and all is well. just need to fix the tl from my accident but engine runs great now. so change the injector/s. but first clear teh code and as soon as it starts misfiring, read teh code. i had cyl 4 misfire when i checked it right away. but if i didnt check it right away it would say 1-5 or 1-6 misfire

edeekeos

well, i changed the throttle body/sensors today with the known good one from my old engine, and no change.


HOWEVER, upon disassembly, i noticed the hose coming from the front valve cover to the intake was not tightened down, damn near hanging off. at the time, i didn't think anything of it. so i changed everything out, no difference, put my new TB back on, and pluged in all the sensors, and coolant hoses, and ensured that the loose hose was now tight...

... so far, no more issues. CEL, and TCS lights are now off, on their own might i add, and the entire way home (30 miles) everything has been great!! (knock on wood) No misfires, no vibrations, no studders, nothing but smooth, raw power.

So, whether or not that was the problem, its gone now. I hope it was though. If it comes back, im going to order a ThermoBlok kit from Outlaw, and rip the top off, and do injectors, and rails.

I hate 'counting my chickens,' but i think old girl's gonna be just fine!

edeekeos

*non pertaining question*

I didn't think P2R made a TB Spacer for the A1's??..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/P2R-T...item20b04b3ce7

edeekeos

took off this morning to do the family/Easter thing, and it started happening once again. same mild misfire/studder at low rpms.

i really would hate to take everything apart and do injectors, and that not fix it. I went to auto zone, and picked up some NGK Iridiums, and that didn't fix it. so it looks like i have no other options but to try injectors.

01tl4tl

seafoam it to remove and crud and start from a clean slate for diagnosis

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

i replace injector 4 and i have no more misfire. and ive replaced all the injector prior and also seafoamed twice. still had a misfire. changing the injector is easy. did u do a compression test?

edeekeos

will all the gaskets need to be replaced if i do the injectors? or can the old ones be reused? that's the main thing really. i dont have the funds to drop on an outlaw kit right now. even auto zone wanted 100+ for the gaskets..

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

i reused my old ones. as long as u dont bend them ur good to go

fsttyms1

the gaskets are metal and can be reused (as long as you dont bend them while they are off the car)

edeekeos

I haven't had any time to swap injectors yet, but i have, 'refined,' i guess you could say the symptoms.

The issue only begins to happen once the engine is warmed-up. I took off this morning, and no problems for about 10 minutes, then the TCS light came on, and the misfiring started. The funny thing is, from a dead stop, I can WOT it, and ZERO issues, (other than wheel spin) Even if i take of slightly aggressive, no problems. The misfire only persists under very light 'normal' load, never once have i had a hiccup above 2krpm.

Does any of this sound familiar Rajca? Im no expert, but I would think if it were an injector/s, it would be consistent? My mechanic seems to think it is the ECU dying, or Crankshaft/Camshaft Positioning Sensor? Keep in mind though, I had ZERO issues before the swap, but the only parts that are off of my old engine are the TB, the upper intake manifold, EGR, and coils. Everything else, injectors, rails, CPS's, are all from the new engine (from a salvage yard, that looks as though it had been sitting in a moist area for some time.) My mechanic claims timing is dead on, and every cylinder had great compression.

On top of this, I only have 4 good injectors, and no OBD scanner to know which triggers first..

edeekeos

no thoughts?

01tl4tl

ck the crank position sendor and the throttle position sensor- have heard of those dying recently

TLer trash

+2.....Very common cause of misfire, especially slight, off idle, intermittent, temperature related, etc.

edeekeos

yeah, i tried a different throttle body/sensors, and all i got was a constant rev up, then back down. i don't know what was going on with it. im thinking im going to do injectors tonight if i get time, if that doesnt fix it, ill try CPS.

thanks for the replys btw guys. i really appreciate it. i hope we can finger this out..

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

up and down revving? vacuum leak or bad iacv

fsttyms1

Agree, if its reving up and down its a vacuum leak or the IACV (which vacuum leaks can cause misfires)

edeekeos

the up and down reving was with the old TB new one doesn't do it.

I bought a good scanner from autozone today, and cleared everything went driving down the road, CEL came on, and all it read was P1399- Manufactures Control Ignition System OR Misfire. So I drove around for over an hour and nothing. I had nothing to go on, no direction on which injector to replace, but i disassembled it all anyway. upon removing the fuel rail, all of the rubber o-rings basically turned to dust.

To be safe, I let the injectors soak in some Chem-Dip for about 2 hrs. Changed all the o-rings, the 2 little ones, and the larger one that the injector sits in, and reassembled everything..

I fired her up, and the CEL went off almost immediately on its own. Drove her home, about an hour of cruising, and 25 mins of city driving, and i cant believe how good she feels. very smooth, no studder, or hesitation at all, the misfire is gone.

Once again, i hate to count my chickens before they hatch, last time i thought i had found the issue, problems reappeared the next day. But i feel as though this time is different. Im thinking that it obviously was not creating enough of a seal with the bad o-rings, and causing it running very lean in a couple of cylinders. Hence why it wouldn't do it when it was cold, vehicles always run richer when they are cold, and maybe this allowed it to get just enough fuel to compensate for the extra air. <<-- Maybe not though, Im not really for sure if that even can happen, but theoretically, it makes sense. Could have just been getting an irregular spray pattern, who knows

In any case, SO FAR, she seems to be fine once again. Ill keep you guys posted. Thanks again for the help.

edeekeos

well, i noticed a LARGE pool of fuel under my car just now. went to make a late night run to the gas station for some milk, and smelt/seen a PUDDLE. time to rip it apart again. FML.

01tl4tl

new orings everywhere and correct torque applied?
tightened the fuel line to rail? replaaced those funky clips with new clamps
Puddle is a large amount!!, more than a leaky injector so should be easy find and fix- good luck!

interesting about the worn orings- that would create some freaky issues- most of which you have described, but are so far fetched as a diagnosis...
Ever had an overheat condition or reason there was more heat than normal in the engine? headers?

ever use fuel injector cleaner of any brand?

edeekeos

ok. issue fixed. i ripped 2 o-rings in the rail side. injectors 3, and 5. i just fixed it all in my apartment complex's parking lot LOLS!!. no more leaks, and still no codes. it was unbelievable the amount of fuel leaking from them. it was literally like a hose spraying. damn those rails carry some SERIOUS pressure. but all better.. until next time.

I owe a debt of gratitude to my wife. she has been by my side the whole time, for every issue. standing out there the whole time holding tools, and my flashlight. Shes wonderful

*side note. as stated before, this engine was from a salvage yard, and it was VERY clear that it had been sitting for a great deal of time. years+ so I'm gonna blame the bad seals on dry rot, no over heat issues that i know of, and i have put one bottle of the lucas stuff through, on a full tank.

totaledTL

Take that woman out for a nice dinner!

fsttyms1

A helpful hint if you ever mess with the fuel injectors or any one that does in the future. Take a small amount of Vaseline to the O rings. The injectors will pop right into place without damaging the o rings

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

McD. Cheap and fills u up. But than again, I bet a lot of thing fill ur girl up

edeekeos

haha, yeah i owe her one.

so far so go, still today. lets hope it remains this way!

jrdecat

Congrats on getting it all figured out. I had a very similar thing happen to me last year with the timing belt. It more melted than snapped though. The shop we went to wanted $6100 to fix it. I laughed at them and then bought a salvage yard engine for around $400 and swapped it (twice...first replacement had bad head gasket) in my garage.

jdjohn84

Congrats on the fix. For night work, I recommend head lamps - little light attached to an elastic strap that goes around your head. You can find them in the camping section at Walmart, or an outdoors store. Of course if the car you are working on belongs to someone else, you might want them to hold a flashlight for you so they can appreciate the time you are taking to help them

01tl4tl

use fuel system cleaner at max dose- for lucas, seafoam and redline thats 1 bottle to less than half a tank- ck directions, treats 8-21 gallons means 8 for you~
run at cleaning dose for best results
throw another can in next tank and you should be ok

edeekeos

Brilliant idea about the headlamp!!

I was a little weary about putting so much additives in the tank, but i guess ill know for next time! thanks for the advise. You think it would be wise to go ahead a run another bottle of Lucas though?

Also, what seems to do better for FI cleaner, Lucas, or seafoam.

thanks again for all the help guys, i wish this forum had a +rep system. so far, again today, no issues!

01tl4tl

redline best, seafoam, then lucas for fuel cleaner choices- is my opinion

wont hurt at all to use more now, you only did a light dose

As long as you dont add a full bottle with each tank--that would be harsh on the spark plugs~ but 2 now and then 1 every 5000 miles/6 months is no problem