DIY: Upper Control Arm (w/Pics)
#41
you got some wrong info there buddy or you miss-understood my post.
after changing out my uppers, Toe was wayy out i had to have my wheel slightly cocked to the left just to drive straight. that was not from the new ball joints, it was just from taking apart the suspension and putting it back together. you must get an alignment after doing any kinda of suspension work, whether the parts you put in are adjustable or not.
chances are if you do any kinda of suspension work you can easy bump toe out of alignment, so get it checked. im well aware you cant adjust camber in our cars, and my camber is not bad enough to convince me to get adjustable uppers.
after changing out my uppers, Toe was wayy out i had to have my wheel slightly cocked to the left just to drive straight. that was not from the new ball joints, it was just from taking apart the suspension and putting it back together. you must get an alignment after doing any kinda of suspension work, whether the parts you put in are adjustable or not.
chances are if you do any kinda of suspension work you can easy bump toe out of alignment, so get it checked. im well aware you cant adjust camber in our cars, and my camber is not bad enough to convince me to get adjustable uppers.
It's obvious you have never done front end work on a regular bases otherwise you wouldn't be making the comments you are, well unless your one of those tire store guys. I have thousands of alignments under my belt so I'm very positive that the information is correct and the job takes under an hour for both side too if you know what your doing and have the proper tools for the job, and a ball joint fork isn't one of them.
Last edited by rcb2000; 10-01-2010 at 11:59 AM.
#42
I agree with rcb2000. I replaced my upper arms before a road trip and there was no change in the alignment. I did get the alignment afterwards becuase I got new tires and it was time. The reason why the alignment wasn't done at the time the tires went on was due to the loose joint. So tires and A-arms on Friday, drive to Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown Sat-Sun and Alignment on Monday.
Sounds like normal life huh?
Sounds like normal life huh?
#44
Senior Moderator
It was way out before you replaced the parts, did you touch the lower ball joint did you replace the tie rods, if not toe isn't effected. Your not going to bump out the alignment when there isn't any adjustability too it in the first place, so if your wheel was centered while you had bent or bad parts the alignment shop stole your money since they didn't check out the car before they did the alignment, very typical of a tire store doing the alignment. Also just because the steering wheel isn't center has no baring whether the toe is right or wrong, the steer wheel can be low left 90 degrees and the toe can still be set at zero or a 1/16 in. yes you have to move both tie rod sleeves to center the wheel but your not changing the toe in or toe out condition in actuallity, you are moving them in opposite directions so toe never changes but the steering wheel does. yes some time if toe is off slightly you can move one side usually you are moving both sides to center the wheel.
It's obvious you have never done front end work on a regular bases otherwise you wouldn't be making the comments you are, well unless your one of those tire store guys. I have thousands of alignments under my belt so I'm very positive that the information is correct and the job takes under an hour for both side too if you know what your doing and have the proper tools for the job, and a ball joint fork isn't one of them.
It's obvious you have never done front end work on a regular bases otherwise you wouldn't be making the comments you are, well unless your one of those tire store guys. I have thousands of alignments under my belt so I'm very positive that the information is correct and the job takes under an hour for both side too if you know what your doing and have the proper tools for the job, and a ball joint fork isn't one of them.
#45
Nice wright up. My TL-P is @ 230k so and feeling loose so I'm gonna need to do this soon.
I am also getting the 'knocking' noise in the back. Do know if there is a write-up / DIY on replacing the ball-joints / links in the rear?
I am also getting the 'knocking' noise in the back. Do know if there is a write-up / DIY on replacing the ball-joints / links in the rear?
#46
Nice wright up. My TL-P is @ 230k so and feeling loose so I'm gonna need to do this soon.
I am also getting the 'knocking' noise in the back. Do you know if there is a write-up or DIY on replacing the ball-joints / links in the rear?
I am also getting the 'knocking' noise in the back. Do you know if there is a write-up or DIY on replacing the ball-joints / links in the rear?
#47
Nice write up. My TL-P is @ 230k so and feeling loose so I'm gonna need to do this soon.
I am also getting the 'knocking' noise in the back. Do you know if there is a write-up or DIY on replacing the ball-joints / links in the rear?
I am also getting the 'knocking' noise in the back. Do you know if there is a write-up or DIY on replacing the ball-joints / links in the rear?
#48
Senior Moderator
^ check your rear sway bar endlinks and see if they are broken. they may be making the noise you hear
The following users liked this post:
shamal (12-21-2014)
#49
B A N N E D
great write up, but i have an issue. why did you pull the whole strut out? thats a waiste of time IMHO. i did that exact ball joint in 2008. jacked the right side up, took the wheel off, undid the balljoint nut, undid the 2 bolts holding in the control arm, took it off while the strut was in place (never touched a thing pertaining to the strut) hammered out the old balljoint, pressed the new one in, up went the control arm over the strut, hooked the balljoint up, put tire on and it was finished.
looks like i wanna try this afternoon hopefully i find a good price one
#50
I'm doing this project right now.
Have to take out strut/spring because the spring is directly in the way of the control arm bolts. I don't know how anyone else could do it, unless by chance the bolts lined up nicely between the spring. I don't have a spring compressor, I suppose that might do it.
So, now I can't get the damper bolt out. I could drive it out but there seems to be too much pressure on it. Any hints?
Have to take out strut/spring because the spring is directly in the way of the control arm bolts. I don't know how anyone else could do it, unless by chance the bolts lined up nicely between the spring. I don't have a spring compressor, I suppose that might do it.
So, now I can't get the damper bolt out. I could drive it out but there seems to be too much pressure on it. Any hints?
#51
I'm doing this project right now.
Have to take out strut/spring because the spring is directly in the way of the control arm bolts. I don't know how anyone else could do it, unless by chance the bolts lined up nicely between the spring. I don't have a spring compressor, I suppose that might do it.
So, now I can't get the damper bolt out. I could drive it out but there seems to be too much pressure on it. Any hints?
Have to take out strut/spring because the spring is directly in the way of the control arm bolts. I don't know how anyone else could do it, unless by chance the bolts lined up nicely between the spring. I don't have a spring compressor, I suppose that might do it.
So, now I can't get the damper bolt out. I could drive it out but there seems to be too much pressure on it. Any hints?
Thanks for the great DIY !
#53
Instructor
iTrader: (5)
I replaced the ball-joint 2 weeks ago and just used a ball-joint pressor - no need to take out the entire control arm. Get some MOOG parts that you can grease and maintain - they should last longer than the oem balljoints
The following users liked this post:
shamal (12-21-2014)
#54
Great DIY and well documented. Wish I had this one a few weeks ago.
I just replaced mine at 180K on my 2001 TL. I would highly recommend removing the strut to give you working room as the bolts do not easily line up in a gap on the coil spring. You also won't have enough room to torque it down to the specs.
The aftermarket parts do come with the ball joint as well. I used Dorman from Rock Auto and they worked well.
Thanks for the great DIY.....
I just replaced mine at 180K on my 2001 TL. I would highly recommend removing the strut to give you working room as the bolts do not easily line up in a gap on the coil spring. You also won't have enough room to torque it down to the specs.
The aftermarket parts do come with the ball joint as well. I used Dorman from Rock Auto and they worked well.
Thanks for the great DIY.....
#55
Moderator
Well this make it easy for me to do a Weekend Project! my car is sitting with the Original Control Arms on 180K I have to change them asap...
So guys what you recommend OEM Part for this? or Aftermarket? < If so which brand???
So guys what you recommend OEM Part for this? or Aftermarket? < If so which brand???
#56
Advanced
Changed both uppers yesterday. Easier than i thought it would be.
Only hang up is, i forgot to get a ball joint separator.
16 oz hammer came in handy. lol
Only hang up is, i forgot to get a ball joint separator.
16 oz hammer came in handy. lol
#57
I did it !!!
Many thanks to VTEC11 for posting this thread. It was very helpful.
I have a 2002 Acura TL and I changed my driver side ball joint yesterday by following this thread. It was knocking like crazy and required immediate attention.
I tried removing it the control arm without removing the damper like a member suggested, but it was a complete waste of time because the spring is in the way. I realized that the size of the bolt head attaching the arm is larger than the gap between the spring coil. I just removed the damper like the first post mentioned. BTW I still have the original coil.
I pressed out the old BJ and pressed in the new BJ with a vice using pipe sections, sockets, etc ... to clear the stud part of the BJ.
My only problem was that I probably over-torqued the castle nut to a point where the nut cleared the split pin hole in the BJ stud. I really do not understand how I did this because the stud is tapered and so is the knuckle hole. It would take an incredible strength to force a tapered stud into hole. I did not inspect the knuckle hole, I should have test-fitted the new BJ to the knuckle hole to check for any play before reassembling. I hope that it will be fine and not break on me. I will keep an eye on it.
I have a 2002 Acura TL and I changed my driver side ball joint yesterday by following this thread. It was knocking like crazy and required immediate attention.
I tried removing it the control arm without removing the damper like a member suggested, but it was a complete waste of time because the spring is in the way. I realized that the size of the bolt head attaching the arm is larger than the gap between the spring coil. I just removed the damper like the first post mentioned. BTW I still have the original coil.
I pressed out the old BJ and pressed in the new BJ with a vice using pipe sections, sockets, etc ... to clear the stud part of the BJ.
My only problem was that I probably over-torqued the castle nut to a point where the nut cleared the split pin hole in the BJ stud. I really do not understand how I did this because the stud is tapered and so is the knuckle hole. It would take an incredible strength to force a tapered stud into hole. I did not inspect the knuckle hole, I should have test-fitted the new BJ to the knuckle hole to check for any play before reassembling. I hope that it will be fine and not break on me. I will keep an eye on it.
#58
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
Many thanks to VTEC11 for posting this thread. It was very helpful.
I have a 2002 Acura TL and I changed my driver side ball joint yesterday by following this thread. It was knocking like crazy and required immediate attention.
I tried removing it the control arm without removing the damper like a member suggested, but it was a complete waste of time because the spring is in the way. I realized that the size of the bolt head attaching the arm is larger than the gap between the spring coil. I just removed the damper like the first post mentioned. BTW I still have the original coil.
I pressed out the old BJ and pressed in the new BJ with a vice using pipe sections, sockets, etc ... to clear the stud part of the BJ.
My only problem was that I probably over-torqued the castle nut to a point where the nut cleared the split pin hole in the BJ stud. I really do not understand how I did this because the stud is tapered and so is the knuckle hole. It would take an incredible strength to force a tapered stud into hole. I did not inspect the knuckle hole, I should have test-fitted the new BJ to the knuckle hole to check for any play before reassembling. I hope that it will be fine and not break on me. I will keep an eye on it.
I have a 2002 Acura TL and I changed my driver side ball joint yesterday by following this thread. It was knocking like crazy and required immediate attention.
I tried removing it the control arm without removing the damper like a member suggested, but it was a complete waste of time because the spring is in the way. I realized that the size of the bolt head attaching the arm is larger than the gap between the spring coil. I just removed the damper like the first post mentioned. BTW I still have the original coil.
I pressed out the old BJ and pressed in the new BJ with a vice using pipe sections, sockets, etc ... to clear the stud part of the BJ.
My only problem was that I probably over-torqued the castle nut to a point where the nut cleared the split pin hole in the BJ stud. I really do not understand how I did this because the stud is tapered and so is the knuckle hole. It would take an incredible strength to force a tapered stud into hole. I did not inspect the knuckle hole, I should have test-fitted the new BJ to the knuckle hole to check for any play before reassembling. I hope that it will be fine and not break on me. I will keep an eye on it.
#62
Senior Moderator
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