It was way out before you replaced the parts, did you touch the lower ball joint did you replace the tie rods, if not toe isn't effected. Your not going to bump out the alignment when there isn't any adjustability too it in the first place, so if your wheel was centered while you had bent or bad parts the alignment shop stole your money since they didn't check out the car before they did the alignment, very typical of a tire store doing the alignment. Also just because the steering wheel isn't center has no baring whether the toe is right or wrong, the steer wheel can be low left 90 degrees and the toe can still be set at zero or a 1/16 in. yes you have to move both tie rod sleeves to center the wheel but your not changing the toe in or toe out condition in actuallity, you are moving them in opposite directions so toe never changes but the steering wheel does. yes some time if toe is off slightly you can move one side usually you are moving both sides to center the wheel.

It's obvious you have never done front end work on a regular bases otherwise you wouldn't be making the comments you are, well unless your one of those tire store guys. I have thousands of alignments under my belt so I'm very positive that the information is correct and the job takes under an hour for both side too if you know what your doing and have the proper tools for the job, and a ball joint fork isn't one of them.

 

I agree with rcb2000. I replaced my upper arms before a road trip and there was no change in the alignment. I did get the alignment afterwards becuase I got new tires and it was time. The reason why the alignment wasn't done at the time the tires went on was due to the loose joint. So tires and A-arms on Friday, drive to Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown Sat-Sun and Alignment on Monday.
Sounds like normal life huh?

 

Well that was super easy. Just finished in under an hour. The old ball joint was super loose.

 

Agree, what you did shouldnt have changed the alignment at all unless you were replacing parts that were bent before and and alignment was done on them.

 

Nice wright up. My TL-P is @ 230k so and feeling loose so I'm gonna need to do this soon.

I am also getting the 'knocking' noise in the back. Do know if there is a write-up / DIY on replacing the ball-joints / links in the rear?

 

Nice wright up. My TL-P is @ 230k so and feeling loose so I'm gonna need to do this soon.

I am also getting the 'knocking' noise in the back. Do you know if there is a write-up or DIY on replacing the ball-joints / links in the rear?

 

Nice write up. My TL-P is @ 230k so and feeling loose so I'm gonna need to do this soon.

I am also getting the 'knocking' noise in the back. Do you know if there is a write-up or DIY on replacing the ball-joints / links in the rear?

 

^ check your rear sway bar endlinks and see if they are broken. they may be making the noise you hear

 

looks like i wanna try this afternoon hopefully i find a good price one

 

I'm doing this project right now.

Have to take out strut/spring because the spring is directly in the way of the control arm bolts. I don't know how anyone else could do it, unless by chance the bolts lined up nicely between the spring. I don't have a spring compressor, I suppose that might do it.

So, now I can't get the damper bolt out. I could drive it out but there seems to be too much pressure on it. Any hints?

 

Had to rent a spring compressor to get the assembly out. Once that was out, it was danged easy.

Thanks for the great DIY !

 

good job, im gonna have to do this soon

 

I don't think there are any ball-joints in the rear - like others said, the endlinks for the sway bar are probably what's causing the knocking noise.

I replaced the ball-joint 2 weeks ago and just used a ball-joint pressor - no need to take out the entire control arm. Get some MOOG parts that you can grease and maintain - they should last longer than the oem balljoints

 

Great DIY and well documented. Wish I had this one a few weeks ago.

I just replaced mine at 180K on my 2001 TL. I would highly recommend removing the strut to give you working room as the bolts do not easily line up in a gap on the coil spring. You also won't have enough room to torque it down to the specs.

The aftermarket parts do come with the ball joint as well. I used Dorman from Rock Auto and they worked well.

Thanks for the great DIY.....

 

Well this make it easy for me to do a Weekend Project! my car is sitting with the Original Control Arms on 180K I have to change them asap...

So guys what you recommend OEM Part for this? or Aftermarket? < If so which brand???

 

Changed both uppers yesterday. Easier than i thought it would be.
Only hang up is, i forgot to get a ball joint separator.
16 oz hammer came in handy. lol

 

Many thanks to VTEC11 for posting this thread. It was very helpful.

I have a 2002 Acura TL and I changed my driver side ball joint yesterday by following this thread. It was knocking like crazy and required immediate attention.

I tried removing it the control arm without removing the damper like a member suggested, but it was a complete waste of time because the spring is in the way. I realized that the size of the bolt head attaching the arm is larger than the gap between the spring coil. I just removed the damper like the first post mentioned. BTW I still have the original coil.

I pressed out the old BJ and pressed in the new BJ with a vice using pipe sections, sockets, etc ... to clear the stud part of the BJ.

My only problem was that I probably over-torqued the castle nut to a point where the nut cleared the split pin hole in the BJ stud. I really do not understand how I did this because the stud is tapered and so is the knuckle hole. It would take an incredible strength to force a tapered stud into hole. I did not inspect the knuckle hole, I should have test-fitted the new BJ to the knuckle hole to check for any play before reassembling. I hope that it will be fine and not break on me. I will keep an eye on it.

 

Good job, and welcome to AZine. I'm sure it will be fine.

 

Nice

 

How can you tell that the ball joint is loose?

 

Excess play.

 

Jack up the car (place on jack stands) and with it supported yank on the tire and see if you get any play or movement in the ball joint. There should be none. It may need a prybar for leverage. Check upper and lower.

 

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