thelastaspec

Is it "ok" not to put SeaFoam in the VAC line?
Will the fuel and crankcase before an oil change work out ok?

I'm going to be SeaFoaming an '88 Nissan 300zx Turbo in a few days but I have no plans to put some in the VAC line - as its VAC system is complicated and the ECU likes to throw out codes - Does this mean ill just get out thick oil and clean the injectors - what will be missed with no VAC?

01tl4tl

You can spray it thru the TB throat and that will get all the right places in the engine same as master vac port will

Gas tank does the same but takes longer--thats fine for your use

ck with seafoam on turbo and oil use- www.seafoamsales.com

use at 2 ounces seafoam per gal fuel

thelastaspec

Thank you sir!
I always appreciate it when you respond as I know everything will be 100%
This gives me a vode of confidence as I have been explaining my plan to my father (as it is his car).
Thank you very much an I will be sure to give them a call - I hear there cust. relations are good.
People have done SeaFoam to these cars with success and even the z32 car (90-end) - so I feel pretty confident that SeaFoam then after a lengthy drive an oil change will help clean out the injectors get out some "sludge" (from storage and a delayed oil change).
Maybe I'll follow up down the road with some Techron.

If your interested about the car:
It has very low mileage and was driven across Canada by the president of Nissan as a promotional car.
The car was a tech / proving car - it had an unavailable combination of options and features.
I live in Victoria BC, the westmost point in Canada that's populated, and pickled it up from the dealership when she came in for the final leg of the journey. The interior is all digital and even has adjustable ride height via a switch inside the car. Most people don't think its a 88 and when they see the tech, they certainly don't. It was also one of the first cars (in general) to utilize a LED 3rd brake light. The keyhole has a LED at night that lights when you get close to the car so you don't key it. Its not a "sports car" its a Touring car. That's my story

01tl4tl

glad to be of help- thanks for the nod
tech line helped me learn so much and I used same product in the fuel injection cleaning machines back in the day, it was labeled- cleaner--and in big drums

website has good info in several sections too- so many ways to use the stuff www.seafoamsales.com
Jim is the tech guy at seafoam I talked too

moisture will have accumulated in the oil from hygroscopic action during sitting
(so will brake fluid so flush that asap)

If it were my car ---and being such a special car that yours is:
New oil filter to be safe,,whatever is cheap is fine for this
1/2 can seafoam and 150-200 miles drive, up to 500 miles total with constant cking of oil color and stuff on dipstick--if there is anything sticking to it- change oil asap!!

if you can do a few 30+ minute drives, it really likes that for cleaning purposes
and the normal full 16oz can to 8 gallons gas

Enjoy your new baby!

01tl4tl

Techron is good stuff but may take a few bottles to do a complete job- yes I tried it on my own car

Seafoam in the gas, or my alternate is Redline SI-1 fuel injector cleaner at bottle to half tank
that stuff rocks- used it since the 80s when I was a tech, could tell the differance right away, customers always happy

remember to clean the air plate inside the TB on whatever car you work on
or thru carb if old car
Seafoam lubes the pivot hinges in there too

webmastir

gotcha. will be sure i can do 30min before attempting this then. thanks
will also use a cheap new filter as well. i prob shouldn't be a cheapass when doing this..so i'll splurge the $3 to get my moneys worth

01tl4tl

the concern is if you are nearly full of stuff on the current filter (ready for oil change) that the extra stuff coming at it on seafoam will fill the filter to its limit of crud-
then a special spring thing closes and oil no longer enters the filter- called bypassing
All that crud you broke free is now floating rather than being captured

thelastaspec

Thank you kindly.
I think the plan is to take the car to the dealership, throw on a new filter and brake fluid, ill SeaFoam it in the parking lot or take it home/whatever (prob. home so then I can put her on the highway), then bring it back for an oil change with a fresh filter.

I can't do the whole sphiel at home as I don't have the proper jacks and the car wont climb car stands - it wont even load a tow truck flatbed.
I think the only way to do that car is to do it on a lift - it has one of those Nissan under engine covers that go all under the car - I need ample clearance the way it comes off.

01tl4tl

make sure its engine running at least 15 minutes before oil draining

Driving to dealership and left running in the express oil change lane is fine.
tell them it has cleaner in it and must be changed with warm oil!!
(or the liquified crud becomes solid again in the bottem of the oil pan)

thelastaspec

Thanks,
I'm going to be a bit lenient on the amount i put in.
I'm just a bit nervous with the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" deal.
I just want to liquefy the oil a bit better to get out all the junk.
I think at least with this small amount ill give the seals a nice condition.

Someone told me I can use seafoam as a fuel stabilizer... T/F
Is it ok if left in tank (a small amount)

I bought a bottle of Techron for my car as the gas I usually use is just straight 92 octane.

thelastaspec

My friend has an RSX that's been sitting for 4-5 months with a full tank.
Would seafoam in the full tank do any good as he wont be on the road until late November?

01tl4tl

yes its a good gas preservative and yes it will help your buddies car to add some now,
if possible: drive the car for 15-30 minutes to mix in and be in the entire system

direct from seafoam website http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...treatment.html
2 oz per gal fuel will keep it from gelling and having moisture issues
1.5 oz per qt of oil and drive

too little doesnt do as good or as quick a job--I like max results for my 8 dollars
use their amounts, study all the different methods they have and your fears will be eased

You DO have a gunk problem in the oil- every TL does, and running the right cleaner- with some blast into vtec so its sliders and all get some help is a good plan
I didnt think it was so important until I used a new filter and cut it open after 150 miles with foam--wow!! more than the filter with 7500 on it

did you know vtec is operated by changes in oil pressure, and by oil pressure to do its thing
may be a reason so many report the car seems much faster afterwards

vladtech

Just seafoamed my 2000 3.2 TL. It has about 217K miles. I did half a can into the intake manifold, the other half into the oil crank case. Boy did it smoke up after the treatment!!

The motor oil is only 2700 miles old, but I was thinking that after running seafoam in the crankcase that it was going to turn black (remember my car has 217K miles). However, the color of the oil was still pretty good.

Nonetheless, I'm going to change the oil out tomorrow.

The engine seems to run smoother and the idle is not as rough anymore. I'll post more later.

01tl4tl

its ok to leave seafoam in the oil a few weeks if you want- it keeps on working!
just watch the dipstick for sludge and color change as more stuff is dissolved

drive times over 30 minutes make it work best--seafoam loves heat

I do 150-200 miles then change oil and filter..method is seafoam endorsed

01tl4tl

throw a 16 oz can in 8 gallons gas-just under half tank

that will get parts the vac method cant--the fuel sock, pump, lines, rails and injectors
All very important to smooth running

I add to the gas before the other methods to give it a head start and be in use while doing the warming-cleaning and after drive time

NOOBS to seafoam repeat gas method in a month to get last bits of crud-
then good for a year/15kmiles

JRhodes88

iTrader: (2)

I'm going to do a tune-up on a friend's 02 Accord (spark plugs, wires, air filter, distributor cap).

Should I seafoam before changing all of that or after? Or not at all?

01tl4tl

do it before- use a known master vac port--or be safe and shoot deep creep thru the tb mouth into the engine

JRhodes88

iTrader: (2)

Shouldn't that Master vac port be in a similar location to ours? What's the best way to find out?

vale76

Be careful coz when i did the seafoam vac ports i had lots of seafoam got inside my intake tubing. make sure u drain/empty the intake tubing after the procedure.

webmastir

You didn't use Deep creep?

RONE

Thanks for the DIY writeup. I just did this on my '02 TL. I didn't use any extra tubing, though, as my vacuum line runs a little differently and is a little longer than the one in the original post (which is a picture of an '03), so I just used the vacuum line to slowly pour the Seafoam into.

01tl4tl

you used the Master vac port at TB?--when you removed the rubber hose with the squeeze type clamp on it--you found a metal tube extending from the TB--correct?

that tube is the place seafoam goes in
its got 20+ inches of vac and will SUCK it from a can when a hose is placed within 1 inch of surface of fluid
How did you slowly POUR it in? did you use the vac line you removed and poured in it?

also do 1 can in half tank of gas to complete the full system cleaning

dlambros

I'm having a little trouble locating the vacuum hose connection on my 2003 TL Base. I've read the service manual, googled, still can't find it (for sure). Can anyone send a pic with the exact location?

Thanks.

01tl4tl

remove the plastic engine cover with 4 bolts
See first page of this DIY for complete pic set

look for a hose with a squeeze type clamp on it running to the TB- remove that hose
and a metal nipple/port appears- thats the master vac port you spray the seafoam into (or the PITA method of sip sip if you bought liquid instead of aerosol/Dep Creep)

Since you are having trouble with finding the port-
I am going to suggest you do the seafoam SUPER easy DIY
thats buy 2 cans of seafoam , add first can to just under half tank of gas
drive normal
any 30 minute + trips really help it do a good job when possible

next tank or the one after- add 1 can seafoam to just under half tank- drive normal
you are DONE with the seafoam part!
Way more effective than just vac port, and safer for the noobs~

additional - remove the tube and cover from air filter box to TB,
look inside TB at round plate- spray carb cleaner on it and wipe up residue
use throttle mechanism to open the plate- spray back and edges- wipe up runoff
put all back together- make sure all hose clamps are snugged up good
Start engine, will run funny a minute as that carb cleaner leftover gets sucked thru and burns different than gasoline

you are now done for a year!!!

dlambros

This is great, thank a lot! I was able to locate the vacuum hose with a little help from a guy at Advance Auto Parts. I did the PITA method and filmed the smoke screen after the 15 minute wait time. Here is a pic of the location of the vacuum hose for the 2003 TL Base model (labeled #1). I disconnected the tube at the connection labeled #2 in the attached pic.

dlambros

I should note that the Check Engine Light and the TCS Light came on after running Seafoam through. After turning the car off/on the TCS light disappeared. I then disconnected the battery for 20 minutes as suggested to clear the Check Engine Light. Now to find that dang Radio Code LOL. Thanks for the help 01tl4tl!

01tl4tl

you missed a bunch of info for doing this
CEL is from not enough of a hot foot blowout after-drive
it will self clear in a day or 2 as the crud that got stuck on O2 sensor burns away with driving

Use the CLOCK FUSE not the battery neg cable to reset ECU if you want to clear the code right away,,but driving is the correct thing to do in this case

Its best to use a different line- a piece of vac tubing from store-- to induce seafoam thru master vac port,,or aerosol can version is awesome method right into the vac port

bending that hose at #2 to reach whatever container you poured seafoam into, is bad for it, and dipping end of hose in seafoam is bad for it too

Touching or submerging the hose in the liquid with engine running is asking for major blowback with stalling of engine
Keep the end of hose 1 inch above liquid- allow it to make a tornado
just info for next time~

remember the can in just under half a tank to get the rest of the job done
and the air plate inside TB throat

01tl4tl

when the hose is removed from #1 - a metal nipple is exposed
thats the best place to put the seafoam

Skirmich

As the OP pic point out if you remove the Tube on Type-S engine from the first metal tube it is long enough to reach a cup full of Seafoam no Need for extra tubbing!

If needed you can remove both bolts (10mm) and use the metal tube to suck the Seafoam from wherever You want it to suck it, Just remove the end going to the MC.

01tl4tl

its better not to run seafoam thru the vac line, if you have the option of using a different piece of tubing

wowzer

Hello everyone,

This is a great thread...but one question. I went to Pep Boys and saw Deep Creep and Seafoam Spray. The seafoam spray says that it is safe for the O2 sensor. The Deep Creep did not.

Which one would you recommend for the air vac port method?

Thanks.

01tl4tl

use Deep Creep
good for intake manifold method, plus use on 1000 things around the car and house that need lube

the new seafoam spray is for a different intake than ours

JTStreet

The original pictures don't seem to be working. Can someone tell me where the vacuum port is on a MY99? Thanks

01tl4tl

look at the pic a few post above,
somewhere near the connection of manifold and TB will be a hose with a squeeze clamp on it--the ONLY hose there with that type clamp

use pliers to squeeze open and slide back on the hose
gently twist and pull the hose to remove from the metal nipple its sitting on.
THATS where the seafoam goes in - the metal nipple

please see my above Super Easy DIY method
only have to spray and wipe clean the TB air plate and lube the throttle return springs, and 2 times of seafoam in the gas tank = best job you can do!

I use deep creep instead of liquid seafoam for better control and ease of project- thats if you do the vac port method sip sip
it works on the tb air plate and for spring lube!!

with the easy method, no worries of too much at a time, or CEL light, or other issues with the direct method
Gas tank method takes a few weeks but overall result is same on some parts and better
on the rest

without the gas tank method at least once, you miss important parts of the fuel transfer and injection system- fuel injectors-rails- lines- everything

JTStreet

Thanks for the great info. I'm planning on doing seafoam in the crank case and gas tank, and I was going to go through the vacuum line as well, but do you suggest another method? I've never applied seafoam via a vacuum line -- it's always been directly through the throttle body.

I also plan on cleaning out the EGR this weekend. That should be a fun mess at 110,000 miles! Just purchased the car three days ago, so I'm ensuring all maintenance is up to date. Loving it so far as my new daily driver.

Jbat

sorry to resurrect a fairly old thread but I just did this and was wondering, did anyone have their engine knock while driving immediately after doing this? Mine knocked a little about 2000rpm or just above 2k while the smoke was coming out, more if i got on it a little so I backed off until it quit smoking and then it did it just a little more and then went away. CEL never came on. Not really worried about it, just curious.

lsiravi

OK, resurrecting an ancient thread.

New (<2week) TL owner. Nothing that I observed specifically that I can say will be helped with seafoaming, but I wanted to do this anyway, just to clean up the engine. Few Qs:

1. Are there any new gotchas from the original DIY? I went through the thread, but only so much you can really read :|

2. The three parts of seafoaming (Vac Line, Crank Case, Gas Tank) are essentially independent, right? I have a <200miles new oil/filter, so if I wanted to do the Vac/Gas now and the Crankcase later, will that be a problem?

3. If the person who sold this to me already did this once, will it be a problem double-cleaning the engine?

Thanks
lsi

webmastir

I remember the days when 01tl4tl would chime in instantly. Miss that guy

coastal rider

Great post, albeit on the older side. I saw another one for an earlier generation CL/TL though the picture of the throttle body appeared to have a shorter snout to the throttle body.

One word of caution: make sure that the clear plastic container you use has a smallish opening. If you feed too much Sea Foam into the vacuum line, the engine may not only stumble, but if it dies the vacuum line may burp back into the Sea Foam container spraying the stuff up in the air (in the engine compartment and likely on the bump as well).

01tl4tl

the SMART way to do all of this is a full can, 2 times in half a tank of gas,
gets everything

if you insist on instant method with vac port- get a spray can of deep creep- seafoam aerosol, way easier to control and do the TB air plate inside too (remove air snout from airbox)
If you do use a container and hose method, hold hose end 1 inch above liquid and use only master vac port at throttle body
That makes a tornado!! and avoids that over application backfire
the car will not run on more than 50% seafoam in the manifold induction mix

go to www.seafoamsales.com for info on the 2000 rpm for a few minutes during the vac port method- for those that need smoke to be happy