DIY: Seafoam on '03 TL-S
#41
What your problem is?
Thread Starter
I only added the pics above as reference...
- The sip sip method should be used and just because there is smoke coming while still inducing Seafoam should not make you want to 'hurry up' the process.
- The type of spark plug that should be used is beyond this DIY, utilize the search function to obtain the correct brand and type.
- The CEL comes on for some (not for me) and clears itself, but this emthod is only employed for those that are really bothered by seeing it.
- 2oz of Seafoam for every gallon of gas. 1/4 tank = 8oz; full can is fine, but get more gas after driving for a bit...
- Utilize Seafoam in a well ventilated area (I thought that was a given, but mistake happen)...
- The sip sip method should be used and just because there is smoke coming while still inducing Seafoam should not make you want to 'hurry up' the process.
- The type of spark plug that should be used is beyond this DIY, utilize the search function to obtain the correct brand and type.
- The CEL comes on for some (not for me) and clears itself, but this emthod is only employed for those that are really bothered by seeing it.
- 2oz of Seafoam for every gallon of gas. 1/4 tank = 8oz; full can is fine, but get more gas after driving for a bit...
- Utilize Seafoam in a well ventilated area (I thought that was a given, but mistake happen)...
#42
Tom
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well there are some basic errors in this diy now! go back and read about the smoke- the correct sipsipsip method, and correct after foam warm up and drive!!
What plug brand are those- cant make out the name on the box
I havent replace them yet. Im waiting for the 2nd round of seafoarm in about 2000mi as your proposal.
#43
You can change the plugs a few days after 1st foaming- that gives the engine time to blow out the residual crud. The follow up treatment wont be dumping large amounts of stuff- so the plugs will be fine as long as you do the after foam- hot foot drive
If you have properly pre-heated the engine and exhaust- you will likely get some small or large anounts of smoke towards the end of the installation time out the exhaust tips
(park nose upwind!)- you really want to add it as slow as possible- giving the engine time to stabilize between each sip. That allows it to really get at crud and not just get blown thru.
What you see as initial smoke is mostly the result of the hi detergent oils in foam reacting to the heat- what you get in light colored smoke on the drive is the crud residue burning off too-
Dont just clear the CEL light- go drive the car so the O2 sensor gets cleaned off - then reset the ECU to learn the clean performance parameters-
does that part really work about the ecu relearn clean????
I dont know, but it sounds believable!
If you have properly pre-heated the engine and exhaust- you will likely get some small or large anounts of smoke towards the end of the installation time out the exhaust tips
(park nose upwind!)- you really want to add it as slow as possible- giving the engine time to stabilize between each sip. That allows it to really get at crud and not just get blown thru.
What you see as initial smoke is mostly the result of the hi detergent oils in foam reacting to the heat- what you get in light colored smoke on the drive is the crud residue burning off too-
Dont just clear the CEL light- go drive the car so the O2 sensor gets cleaned off - then reset the ECU to learn the clean performance parameters-
does that part really work about the ecu relearn clean????
I dont know, but it sounds believable!
#45
Yes it normally clears the CEL check Engine Light after you drive a day or 2 and heat melts the goo off the sensor-
#46
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i had done the seafoam method the old way once before and then i just did it this past weekend with the 5/16 hose and through the throttle body and there was allot more smoke this time and made a difference in performance and how smooth the idle and acceleration is! this is the best method and i am going to do this on my parents maxima aswell!
#48
turns out that after all these years - someone looked at the manifold and found that rear hose only fed 3 cylinders out of 6, and seafoam cautions to find a main port because getting only some clean can cause problems!!
Repeat the new method and gas tank methods in 2000 miles- then youre good for a year
Repeat the new method and gas tank methods in 2000 miles- then youre good for a year
#49
Are the pictures on the first post from an 01 TL engine??? I looked at my 02 TL-S engine today and the vac line is positioned different or I am not sure if on my car it's the vac line. I didn't remove the cover yet. In the pictures it looks like it's not necesary to remove to the engine cover to get to the vac line. Please let me know if it is necesary. I will remove it anyways..brb..
#50
What your problem is?
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by TL260power
Are the pictures on the first post from an 01 TL engine??? I looked at my 02 TL-S engine today and the vac line is positioned different or I am not sure if on my car it's the vac line. I didn't remove the cover yet. In the pictures it looks like it's not necesary to remove to the engine cover to get to the vac line. Please let me know if it is necesary. I will remove it anyways..brb..
2. The engine cover has to come off, if not it makes it very difficult. You are not looking at the correct line. Remove the engine cover and remove the tubing, you will feel the vacuum.
3. Read the instructions carefully. Look at the pics provided, but follow the directions in the first post.
#52
Kilos of yayo in
Wiw just did the correct method just now. Wow! A lot more consistent smoke then the other method. My car made some scary noises though and the cel came on. After driving around a bit though the car was sounding better. Lately my car was sounding like a sowing machine and it seems to sound a little better now. I am hoping this helps improve my gas mileage even just a little in these days of gas gouging. Anyone who has not done it the correct way I highly recommend you go out and do it. I am accelerating smoother now.
#53
Ok just did the seafoam earlier...I followed the directions very carefully..But when I went out to drive it after I was done doing everything, just a little smoke came out...nothing major...I was like that's it!! I was expecting a lot of smoke to come out of my exhaust. Do you think maybe my car wasn't dirty enough?? Should I do it again?
#55
Hey Billy Sacco and other first timers!!
Repeat the seafoam in gas tank at 2 oz per 1 gal fuel, and vac port method in about 2000 miles to finish the job
Smoke is largely dependant on the temp of exhaust system- heat reacting with oils in seafoam makes smoke
With the several conflicting directions on azine, you need to specify what you did in order to help diagnose
Do the engine oil right before next oil change. It shocking how much stuff is clogging the cars arteries~ I am hoping that helps mileage too!
Repeat the seafoam in gas tank at 2 oz per 1 gal fuel, and vac port method in about 2000 miles to finish the job
Smoke is largely dependant on the temp of exhaust system- heat reacting with oils in seafoam makes smoke
With the several conflicting directions on azine, you need to specify what you did in order to help diagnose
Do the engine oil right before next oil change. It shocking how much stuff is clogging the cars arteries~ I am hoping that helps mileage too!
#58
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1/2 can (8oz) to the crank case. You can do the crankcase one before an oil change. I did the vac port and gas tank 2 or 3 weeks ago. And I'm waiting until my next dealership checkup before I do the crankcase one.
#59
dealer checkup?
If its a service that gets an oil change, put the seafoam in the crankcase before you head there, so its working as you drive and they change the oil once you get there
If its a service that gets an oil change, put the seafoam in the crankcase before you head there, so its working as you drive and they change the oil once you get there
#60
Pep boys only had 1 can left =( So I'll be adding the full 16oz to my gas tank when it gets to half, then i'm gonna run the tank pretty low and fill up with half tank again. By that time the store should recieved it's shipment and I'll do 8oz in the vac port, then dump the rest in the tank again.
I want to perform an oil analysis with my Amsoil so the crank case cleaning will have to wait.
I want to perform an oil analysis with my Amsoil so the crank case cleaning will have to wait.
#61
when ready to do the oil - take your sample first- then add the foam - run engine-
change oil and filter
fsttyms1 does that all the time for his analysis
change oil and filter
fsttyms1 does that all the time for his analysis
#62
My car feels good now. More responsive at the throttle. Does not feel sluggish anymore...I will perform this procedure 2k miles later. I will do all three this time..
Thanks for the DIY
Thanks for the DIY
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#63
make sure you clean the TB throttle plate with some spray cleaner- thats important to do as well
#65
I have dead hookers in
Yeah the Deep Creep is great. ESP. for the VAC line. it is just seafoam in an aerosal(SP?) can. it lets you really control the flow of the seafoam. I used it worked out great.
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#67
I have dead hookers in
what parts are you refering to? the throttle body plate is that little round disc looking thing if you look in the round opening of your TB.
The other parts someone else will have to chime in asi am new to the TL and do not want to steer anyone wrong.
The other parts someone else will have to chime in asi am new to the TL and do not want to steer anyone wrong.
#68
Someone mentioned earlier these parts TB plate, Pcv valve, and EGR ports
Yes throttle body plate is one of them. I think a pic with the parts circled would be better.
Engine pic:
http://img176.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2567df7.jpg
Yes throttle body plate is one of them. I think a pic with the parts circled would be better.
Engine pic:
http://img176.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2567df7.jpg
#69
UB6IB9
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
when ready to do the oil - take your sample first- then add the foam - run engine-
change oil and filter
fsttyms1 does that all the time for his analysis
change oil and filter
fsttyms1 does that all the time for his analysis
#70
that works- but in my opinion- may as well let it do its work for longer than 2-3 minutes and get more cleaning action for the money.
Maybe those metric minutes are longer than usa??
The oil passages are amazingly dirty- regardless of how often you change the oil
Consider them the arteries of the car!!!
Maybe those metric minutes are longer than usa??
The oil passages are amazingly dirty- regardless of how often you change the oil
Consider them the arteries of the car!!!
#71
I'm a thrill seeker in my
Hey guys, I just changed the spark plugs on my 02 type-s and I was wondering if it's still okay to do the vac port seafoaming. I bought a 16oz can and plan on pouring in half of it into a 1/4 tank of gas, but I'm not sure about the vac port method simply because I don't want to dirty up my new plugs with the crud coming off the engine.
Thanks for any responses.
Thanks for any responses.
#72
I'm a thrill seeker in my
Nevermind, I found the original seafoam DIY thread, and it said that if you have new plugs it's no problem to seafoam through the vac port.
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#73
wont hurt them at all- just be sure to do the 4000 rpm run afterwards and there will be nothing stuck to them
#74
i use to do this to my old accord. the first time there was so much smoke... it was a huge huge cloud that set about 6 feet above the ground and just drifted slowly away from us. after changing the oil and plugs we went for a test drive down the road about 3 or 4 miles and it still covered the road. i could only imagine the amount of build up in that car....
has anyone tried to figure out what the stuff is?? smells like old diesel fuel?
has anyone tried to figure out what the stuff is?? smells like old diesel fuel?
#75
its known to contain hi detergent oils...beyond that, some speculate but have no proof by analysis.
Its safe to leave in the oil a little while, its not solvent! you dont have to just idle 10 minutes- let it work IMO
thats for guys who have done it a few times to the oil already and the passges just need a touch-up
Works great in many things- been around for 50 years+, try it in the lawnmower gas
Its safe to leave in the oil a little while, its not solvent! you dont have to just idle 10 minutes- let it work IMO
thats for guys who have done it a few times to the oil already and the passges just need a touch-up
Works great in many things- been around for 50 years+, try it in the lawnmower gas
#76
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i did my 00 TL last evening. i did not get too much smoke dough. after a few minutes the dense smoke clear and by the time i've got to the freeway the engine was running good again. i used half a can in the tank and half in the vac line. i'll try it again in 2000 miles.
#77
Tom
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I'm happy to report that after seafoarm my TL for the 1st time at 107k mi (see my post pic., this threat), and changed spark plugs, the MPG goes up from 20.5 to 21.5 (city/hwy mix). This is significantly improved, but still not meet my requirement. I know those numbers above are very much stable because this is my working car and the daily driving condition are very much the same.
I will do the 2nd seafoarm in about 2K mi. and will post my result later. Hopefully I 'll see some better MPG number.
I will do the 2nd seafoarm in about 2K mi. and will post my result later. Hopefully I 'll see some better MPG number.
#78
hows your engine air filter? that will make a big differance
and the cabin air filter?
I just tried DeepCreep-
it is 100% Seafoam in a spray can with straw. Same price Same amount, More room on package to write addittional uses!
Worked great on an old honda, shoot some in the TB- shoot some in brake booster main vac port, go back and forth to get everything possible.
It was fun to see how far away the suction would take a little drizzle and turn it into a tornado entering the vac port.
and the cabin air filter?
I just tried DeepCreep-
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Worked great on an old honda, shoot some in the TB- shoot some in brake booster main vac port, go back and forth to get everything possible.
It was fun to see how far away the suction would take a little drizzle and turn it into a tornado entering the vac port.
#79
Tom
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hows your engine air filter? that will make a big differance
and the cabin air filter?
I just tried DeepCreep- it is 100% Seafoam in a spray can with straw. Same price Same amount, More room on package to write addittional uses!
Worked great on an old honda, shoot some in the TB- shoot some in brake booster main vac port, go back and forth to get everything possible.
It was fun to see how far away the suction would take a little drizzle and turn it into a tornado entering the vac port.
and the cabin air filter?
I just tried DeepCreep- it is 100% Seafoam in a spray can with straw. Same price Same amount, More room on package to write addittional uses!
Worked great on an old honda, shoot some in the TB- shoot some in brake booster main vac port, go back and forth to get everything possible.
It was fun to see how far away the suction would take a little drizzle and turn it into a tornado entering the vac port.
Seafoarm spray can... interesting! will think about that.
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#80
tommy what plugs are you using?