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I've had my front sway bar links replaced (along with the steering rack, upper and lower ball joints) and since then my 2003 TL has been vibrating at the steering wheel every time we get to 55mph.
I got underneath the car and checked the ball joints and the steering rack. Nothing looked abnormal.
But then. this is what the driver-side sway bar link looks like:
This link looked bent, under pressure, as if it wanted to rip out of the boot.
I am not a mechanic, but if something looks bent/rusted through, especially with the suspension/steering, replace it.
The parts aren't that expensive, go on rockauto.com, there are online discount codes, and just replace what looks like it is worn/bent/damaged.
I had my 02 Accord written off because of a lower ball joint. Cheap part that can save alot of problems if you just replace it.
The vibrations should be a warning to you. Not sure if you are hearing any other noises or not, but for sure, check all the suspension components, tires and steering.
I only mention this because you said you had your front upper sway links replaced. On some models, it is possible to install the sway bar upside down which causes vibration and often rubbing on other components. It's not always easy to determine which side is up without looking at another similar vehicle.
I am keenly interested in whether the OP solved the vibration problem and what the solution was. I've got a similar vibration that sets in around 55 - 60 mph+ that's driving me CRAZY. Tires balanced and re-balanced, including road force balancing -- no improvement. Replaced all 4 struts -- still there. To my eye nothing on the front end looks worn, damaged, or loose that I can find.
I've purchased new axles and those go on next. If that doesn't solve it, I'm about out of ideas!
Deohaven; it looks to me like the links got swapped side to side. I doubt that it would cause any vibration, but I'd take it back and get it corrected.
I am keenly interested in whether the OP solved the vibration problem and what the solution was. I've got a similar vibration that sets in around 55 - 60 mph+ that's driving me CRAZY. Tires balanced and re-balanced, including road force balancing -- no improvement. Replaced all 4 struts -- still there. To my eye nothing on the front end looks worn, damaged, or loose that I can find.
I've purchased new axles and those go on next. If that doesn't solve it, I'm about out of ideas!
Update: New axles installed. No improvement. :-( Despair has officially set in.
Although I have serious doubts anything is wrong with the tires, I'm taking it in to where I purchased them to see if they'll swap them out. With any luck, maybe with some credit from tire manufacturer.
All the rims look good. Not a dent or a scrape that I can find, and I can't recall hitting anything. It tracks straight on the highway, and no uneven or unusual wear on the treads.
They can look perfectly normal at a glance but until you see them spinning you wouldn't know for sure. If you can get the front end of the ground and properly supported, you can start the engine, put it in gear and visually check both sides of each wheel while they are spinning.
...start the engine, put it in gear and visually check both sides of each wheel while they are spinning.
I took it in for a free alignment check yesterday. Test drove it with the tech; he said it felt like somebody dribbling a basketball under there! Put it on the lift. Confirmed alignment and tire wear is all fine. We poked and pried at all the ball joints and linkages and couldn't really find anything. He said he thought the driver side upper control arm ball joint might have some play in it, but couldn't really reproduce the movement. Very helpful guy but I think he was just grasping at straws.
We hand-spun the wheels and couldn't see anything on any of the rims, but the fronts would only spin slowly, of course, in neutral. I'll put it on jack stands today and try what you suggested, starting it and watching them spin, idling in Drive.
Finally.... SOLVED!! It ended up being the motor mounts. They were progressively getting worse, and I finally clued in when I started hearing some strange clunking noises at lower speeds. On bad low speed bumps I starting noticing kind of a "shudder" in the suspension, which ended up being the engine itself shaking around, unrestrained by its shot mounts. The suspension is actually in great shape since I replaced the struts not long ago, trying to figure this out.
The frustrating part of this whole problem is that nobody could diagnose it. The primary symptom being rhythmic vibration at speeds around 55-65 was leading everybody to think wheels, tires, or suspension.
I went ahead and replaced all three motor mounts, along with both transmission mounts. Both the front and side mounts were completely trashed. The rear wasn't noticeably torn, but it was a little soggy. The transmission mounts looked OK, but I wasn't taking any chances. After 17 years in the car they had earned their retirement. Replacing the rear mount was one hell of a job. If I feel the mounts going bad again I'll jump on that front mount quick, but I probably won't do the rear one ever again if I can help it.
I ended up going with the Beck/Arnley mounts, ordered from Rockauto. I was tempted by the DEA's, but just couldn't get comfortable going that cheap. For some reason Beck/Arnley doesn't seem to have a part # for the rear tranny mount so I went with Pioneer on that one.
It still isn't quite clear to me why Beck/Arnley offers 2 different options for the front mount - both of which are listed as direct replacement parts - or what the difference is between them. I went with this one (104-2008)
Maybe somebody can shed some light on the difference?
They feel fine. Vibrations at speed are gone, and both acceleration and shifting is back to being crisp and direct. I might be getting more vibration coming through at idle than with the OEM mounts, but it's hard to say since mine were in such bad shape. If it means they're more durable, I'd say it's well worth it.
Doing all 5 mounts like I did would have been pretty costly at any shop, but ridiculously high at the dealership. There's just no way around it - it's a time consuming job. Nothing about it is so technically difficult, there's just a lot of figuring out how to work your arms, tools, bolts, and the parts into very awkward and tight positions. I've never spent so much time hugging my engine block. In hindsight the front and side mounts don't seem so bad, but that may just be because the rear mount was so brutal. If you're considering it, read up in the DIY threads here, make sure you have the right tools (long socket extensions, breaker bar, u-joints, etc), and allow yourself enough time. When it's all said and done, a challenging but satisfying job.
Some of the step-by-step instructions won't make sense until you get into the job, and some of the bolt sequences didn't match exactly for me, but keeping a printed copy at hand was very helpful. The rear mount bracket on 1999 TL's is slightly different from 2000-2003 models, which could account for some of the differences.
I never found a DIY for the transmission mounts, but you really don't need one. Do them last and they'll seem easy by comparison. A few helpful things I recall:
I read somewhere that you need to remove the battery and its support tray to keep from bending it when you lift the engine. Don't know if it's true, but if you don't, watch it close when you lift the engine to change the tranny mounts. I removed mine.
It may seem obvious, but back off the top nuts a ways on both front and rear motor mounts before lifting the engine to change the tranny mounts. If not, the engine really won't be free to lift and give you the clearance you need. Of course, don't lift any more than you need to.
Ah thanks! I have that DIY bookmarked. I think what I'll do is get the front and side replaced, then do the rear, and then the trans mounts. The side mount looks super simple. The service manual literally has 3 steps for the rear mount - it's not helpful at all.
chojun, where do you live? i want to help, or you better just post pictures of the diy job. then you can help me, personally or via pictures and a write up.
Ah thanks! I have that DIY bookmarked. I think what I'll do is get the front and side replaced, then do the rear, and then the trans mounts. The side mount looks super simple. The service manual literally has 3 steps for the rear mount - it's not helpful at all.
That's the correct order. Front should be first since the side takes extra load when the front is bad. You don't want to put a fresh mount there and damage it before you get the front done.
The side is the easiest. I found this DIY on the side mount: DIY: Replace side engine mount • Acura TL (LINK) Unfortunately the photos are gone, but some of the step-by-step is informative. It mentions the brake line clipped to the back of the mount, which is easy to overlook. Only tip I'd add is go ahead and unbolt and swing the cruise control module out of the way as you start. Much easier than trying to work around it.
chojun, where do you live? i want to help, or you better just post pictures of the diy job. then you can help me, personally or via pictures and a write up.
I live in SLC, Utah. Since there's really nothing in depth on the rear mount I'd be more than happy to do a write-up of it with pics. I'm not likely to do the mount for a month or two from now because I have a laundry list of now-urgent maintenance items. First on the list is my 90K overdue timing belt.
I'm pretty certain I have broken mount(s) because of how I can feel the engine bouncing around inside under certain conditions. I don't think I have a vacuum leak but my idle runs a bit high so it could be a very small leak in one of the mounts.
11-27-2017, 10:40 AM
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