Blue Bolt tranny failure in < 15 minutes

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Old 09-13-2015, 08:53 PM
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Blue Bolt tranny failure in < 15 minutes

Well, it finally happened.

219,198 miles on the clock, ~130,000 of those on a blue bolt, post 2005 transmission.

No check engine lights, no death codes. It was working find and then started to shudder. Putting the transmission into reverse made a noise similar to sucking up coins with a vacuum cleaner. A few minutes later second gear was slipping like crazy, and then it went into limp mode and wouldn't upshift into 4th. CEL and TCS came on along with a blinking D5 lamp.

I went to take off from a stop light and it just revved up like I was in neutral, so I had to push it off to a side street and wait 3 hours for a tow truck. It's sitting at a Honda dealer waiting for them to take a look at it, but I already know it's completely toasted.

I don't want to spend $3k for a remanufactured tranny that will only fail again later down the road, and I'm not sure how to approach a mechanic about using an 06/07 Accord V6 transmission. (I'm afraid they'll think it's a 'mod' and will turn me down).

My only question is why now? Why didn't I get the death code that almost everyone gets? The transmission fluid was red and didn't smell burnt. What gives?

Of course this happened a year after I put a timing belt on it and a week after I spend $1500 on power steering rack, a brake booster, and engine/tranny mounts to pass inspection. I'm just glad I decided not to put new tires on it.


Last edited by Yikes; 09-13-2015 at 09:01 PM.
Old 09-13-2015, 10:09 PM
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My trans died the same.. No issues before hand, No warnings, Just coming out of a stop bamm a sudden bump into 2nd and 3rd would not go in.... Its the joys and marvels of the B7WA.. Still to this day I have do not have a Check Engine, D5 doesnt Blink and my trans seems to work fine if I dont step on it... If I want to go out of a stop in a hurry its GG and my trans slips.

So I can confirm you dont need to have a Check Engine or D5 Blink for the trans to die.. I still dont have it but the trans will surely slips 3rd under hard load.

And the road to go should be an easy one... New Car Payments or Dropping the AV6 Trans.. Im just waiting for a few parts to begin my Swap and Say a Royal Goodbye to the horrible B7WA Trans.
Old 09-13-2015, 10:52 PM
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I came across this:

Having read through many of your posts regarding Honda's AT failures, I felt a little on the skinny behind the failures was in order.

FYI, these failures are not limited to the 6 cylinder models, many of the 4 cyls fall victim to the same malaise: Honda's unashamed attempt at wooing the a different type of customer- the cushion/pillow drive craving, the captain's-chair-in-a-buick (with supersize cup-capable cupholders), the should be driven and not driving consumer.

See, fundamentally for those who do not know, Honda's transmissions (and engines for that matter) are closely related to the race motors they are derived from. Being race-bred this technology spills over into the marketplace were everyone from your average Jane to Joe Rocket can sample and love or lump it.

That said, let me formally introduce you to Honda's AT's. They are hydraulically actuated manual transmissions!

What does this mean? Well simply in means there's a little man in the gear box whose selecting gears for the driver, this so those who would rather not don't have to. However for those who want a more descriptive intro, read on.

In a syncromesh manual trans (which is what cars marketed today are equipped with) all you ratios are in constant mesh fixed on one shaft while freewheeling on the other. Gear selection is accomplished by locking the freewheeling gear of the desired ratio to the shaft it’s spinning on and voila! Your output is served. The make the transition between ratios smoother (as the different ratio gears are obviously turning at different speeds for a given shaft speed) clutch-like devices, known as "syncros" accel &/or decel gears in adjacent ratio pairs before the locks (dog clutches) engage.

Compared to your conventional epicyclical/planetary gear set automatic transmission, ratio selection is far easier, selection more positive and transmission design less complex for ratio addition. In view of this (and the fact that this conclusion had already been arrived at in racing circles, Honda devised and implemented a means of automating gear selection of their manual transmissions instead of lamely following convention. Their efforts yielded the hydraulically actuated manual transmission found in all their AT equipped vehicles.

"How did they achieve automation?" you may ask. Simple. By replacing the brass syncros with wet clutches, all they had to worry about was the ratio itself because clutch pack actuation was already a mastered technology.

The quirk to this transmission was that it had very positive shifts a consequence of wet clutches. Considered more of a boon than a nuisance to race teams, commuters found the shift quality rather alienating, especially since their previous exposure to AT's was limited to the forever-slipping-into-this-ratio-or-that conventional AT.

So the A[lmighty]HM charged to the rescue with soft shifting (read: longer slipping pre-engagement) transmissions. Of course slipping is not good for any clutch and a wet clutch is so not excluded. So in '96.5, Honda introduced phased clutch engagement. This allowed for partial engagement of your 'to' gear before your 'from' gear was fully disengaged. This allowed for dramatically smoother shifts than previous models. The ugly side to this advance was not to reel its ugly head for a couple of years. In late '97. DTC P0740- torque converter circuit failure- was discovered lurking somewhere in between the super-gizmo-wizardry of the PCM and the technologically advanced tranny.

Now early investigation found internal leaks &/or clogged valves to be the culprits.

OK. We thought.

But the shift quality still wasn't smooth enough. But before I get to what engineer's @ AHM decided to do, let me ask you all a question.

How many of you have ever wondered why Honda has always (not now in the advent of flattering emulation by other marques) had 2 drive selections: D3 and D4?

Hold that thought as we return to Honda's tranny refinery.

Realizing that pressure modulation was the to shift shock reduction and that clutches would only stand for so much abuse, Honda looked to a formerly overlooked resource for addition shock dampening: the torque converter clutch. Formerly only used to positively lock the crank to the input shaft, Honda decided to phase its engagement in further efforts to make the AT's operation transparent. It worked for a while. But while existing problems brewed, a whole new batch was thrown in. 740's were jumping all so acrobatically out of the wood work and the more powerful powertrains fell first but their less endowed siblings were soon to follow suit.

While driving, the softer shifts were aggressively wearing away clutch material sometimes in particles that were trapped in screens and filters other times in smaller ones that made it through these lines of defense. In the former situation, the filters (which by the way, are not serviceable) were clogged. This led to pressure loss, which exacerbated the transition duty of the clutches, affected essentially fuelling the vicious cycle's inferno of destruction. In the latter case, accumulation of deposits could occur in the fine passages of the valve body, in/on valve seats etc. Essentially depositing sh!t where it don't belong. Now add to this the fact that you average commuter drives in D4 at speeds that equate to the threshold of TCC engagement, the mapped criteria of engagement coupled with the advanced partial engagement modes of the TCC you have a recipe for ATF & Clutch stew. That's an artery clogger if I ever saw one! (No pun intended!).

In so much as these tranny failures seemed to come out of the woodwork all at once, it was actually the accumulation of un-addressed undesirable operational consequences that all came to a head.

Now the newer 5-spd transmissions have the ignominy of having a third working geared shaft. Unfortunately, prolonged torture testing for reliability of this set wasn’t long enough and internal lubrication and cooling weren't discovered until many owned vehicles with these ill-fated trannies in them. The fix: add point of correction cooling+lubrication by plumbing ATF to the problem. Hence the latest trans recall in a seemingly endless stream of tranny woes.

I must say one thing at this juncture. Redesign has rid the 5-spd transmissions of their heating problem and as for the earlier models, "Oh-oh, better get MAACO!" ;-)))

Sorry to take up so much of your time but I thought you might want to know.
Old 09-13-2015, 11:09 PM
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Post the codes, I recently had the same exact issue with no warning till the D5 was blinking.
Luckily I carry a code reader and came up with a hydraulic problem, immediately I thought well this is it.
I decided to clean up the A/B solenoid located on top of the trans and tested them for actuation all seemed ok, I put it all together start it up the CEL was on, Checked and this time came up with P1750 (Mechanical Problem in Hydraulic Control System of A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid)
Replaced the solenoid with another used one I had laying around, Fixed.
Like yours the fluid was red and no burned smell so there may still be hope.

Its located by the battery tray and looks like this.
Old 09-13-2015, 11:52 PM
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That was an interesting read Yikes.

Although the fact remains the same; Rebuilding or AV6 Swap

Pick your Poison.


ErickUA5

Im positive my issues are related to clogged solenoids, But as I always preached "Once it slips......" I will not try to band aid fix the problem as I currently lost my Confidence in my Long Haul Drives with the TL.. That AV6 swap has been waiting for almost 2 years in my Garage. I believe this was the right time for it to Die..

Last edited by Skirmich; 09-13-2015 at 11:55 PM.
Old 09-14-2015, 08:50 AM
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Skirmich in your situation I wouldn't bother checking it if I have another trans waiting.
Yikes has the improved version of the b7wa so depending on the codes it threw its still worth checking.

Yikes, I've actually read that from a guy that really goes in depth with his 03 accord v6 and explains why the failures occurred . Theres more articles out there with the really good information on failures and fixes.
Old 09-14-2015, 11:10 AM
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damn thats sucks to hear an post 05 failing! ive got about 110k on my post 05 and that really bums me to hear! mine shuddered a long time ago but a 3x3 with filter and pressure switches has mine running good every since and its been about 17k miles. hopefully it turns out to be an easy fix! did you ever service the removable filter and 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches? just wondering what kind of maintenance was done to it.
Old 09-14-2015, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 02tlnate
damn thats sucks to hear an post 05 failing! ive got about 110k on my post 05 and that really bums me to hear! mine shuddered a long time ago but a 3x3 with filter and pressure switches has mine running good every since and its been about 17k miles. hopefully it turns out to be an easy fix! did you ever service the removable filter and 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches? just wondering what kind of maintenance was done to it.
The 3x3 was about 15,000 miles ago. The spin on filter and pressure switches weren't changed.
Old 09-14-2015, 03:46 PM
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lmfao the honda dealer quoted $5777 for a remanufactured transmission.
Old 09-14-2015, 04:05 PM
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^^ LOL you buy like 2x TL-S for that amount.
Old 09-14-2015, 06:59 PM
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With no money to buy a decent AV6 tranny (all the decent ones on car-part.com that I've seen are >$1000) and certainly not enough money to pay almost $5800, I have no choice but to junk the car and take a huge financial loss. (I spent the majority of my financial aid refund money getting the car to pass VA state inspection, because being able to get to and from school is just as important as any other school expense).

Oh well, shit happens. Just have to pick up the pieces and move on.

Last edited by Yikes; 09-14-2015 at 07:08 PM.
Old 09-14-2015, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Yikes
With no money to buy a decent AV6 tranny (all the decent ones on car-part.com that I've seen are >$1000) and certainly not enough money to pay almost $5800, I have no choice but to junk the car and take a huge financial loss. (I spent the majority of my financial aid refund money getting the car to pass VA state inspection, because being able to get to and from school is just as important as any other school expense).

Oh well, shit happens. Just have to pick up the pieces and move on.
That's a tough situation man. Wonder if you keep on looking around for possibilities something may come up. I happened to go scuba diving with a Acura dealership mechanic once, and 2 years later mine went. I called him up, and he rebuilt/installed mine for $1400.
Old 09-14-2015, 07:38 PM
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hell for scrapping it you will get around $300 which is basically giving it away. also consider selling it for $500-700 on craigslist, someone will buy it and at least youll have a few more hundred bucks for a down payment.
Last time i looked on car-part i was seeing some av6's that had 130k for around 650ish, idk what your budget is but I bet you could find something to get you by out of a wrecked tl. i know theres a tl-s at one of the yards i go to(not sure of the mileage or condition) and they sell trannys out of all cars for $125 and they even pull it. I would hate to see another tl go to the junkyard lol.
Old 09-14-2015, 09:43 PM
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That's a tough one Yikes. If you are going to move on it I would definitely throw it on CL and try to recoup some of the money you have just spent on it. I see TLs for sale all the time with bad trans and folks asking around 1500
Old 09-14-2015, 10:15 PM
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Wiggle the black connector if its loose theres your problem.
I've seen this a lot with a bad front engine mount the black connector smashes on the battery tray until it breaks off and the trans will act up, Eventually going into limp mode.
Yikes did you get the codes ?
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Old 09-15-2015, 06:42 PM
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I didn't bother asking for what the codes were.

I contacted corporate and asked explained the situation, and politely asked them to please consider my request for goodwill coverage.

I expect nothing, so I can't be disappointed further. But it's worth a shot.
Old 09-23-2015, 10:52 AM
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why on Earth would you deserve a goodwill adjustment on a 15 year old car?
I realize its good to have a dream but.....

The rebuilt units with the improved oil paths were better = but in no way bulletproof!
To expect more than 75kmiles..100+kmiles of a trans is living in a dream world
See the many other car maker with total trans failures at 51kmiles and ZERO warranty consideration!

Ck the wires and parts mentioned before
There are more suppliers for used/junkyard trans that who you looked up online!!
try calling your local auto dismantler and ask them to locate a trans for you
A hotline system connects most places- they help each other make money~

a 3 ounce sample of atf sent to blackstone labs with 25 dollars will tell you if crud- clutch particulates are clogging the outflow screens of torque convertor

Last edited by 01tl4tl; 09-23-2015 at 10:54 AM.
Old 09-25-2015, 10:20 PM
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I never insinuated that I deserved good will, I simply asked for it because, why not? Worst they can say is no.

As for an A/T being "lucky" to survive 75k miles.... there are Toyota Camry's from the early 90s with 300k+ miles on the original automatic tranny. It's all in the design and how it's maintained.

As for trying to source a junk yard tranny, I'm not sure it's worth it to be honest. It's really just an expensive band-aid to get my a year or two down the road. If I had a place to work on the car and the right tools I could probably do the swap with some of my buddys.

However, since the transmission is completely inoperable rather than just slipping, it's undriveable. It costs me $100 to get the car towed every time, plus I owe the dealership $120 for the 'diagnostic' they did, since I'm not utilizing their services of putting in a reman tranny for $5800.
Old 10-01-2015, 01:35 PM
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One of the techs is going to buy the car for $500.

Words can't describe how relieved I am that it's going to someone and not the junk yard. The engine purrs like it only has 60k on it. Everything on the car works and is in good shape.

I'm in a '99 Grand Cherokee now and the transmission is starting to slip in that, too. I can't seem to catch a break with junky transmissions. Oh well, welcome to life. Hehe

Dear automakers: please make an automatic transmission that isn't complete garbage. Hell, maybe that's what I'm destine to do with my mechanical engineering degree...

Last edited by Yikes; 10-01-2015 at 01:38 PM.
Old 10-01-2015, 01:55 PM
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Funny thing is... That tech is getting an INSANE Deal on your TL...
I don´t understand why you will practically give for free a car when the final solution is at hand while not cheap is now known how to fix the trans issues for good aka AV6 Trans.

Instead of fixing for good an Incredibly reliable car you will try your luck with your next pick? where is the logic on that? Save up a little bit, It will be hard for a while but then you will have an excellent car for many more miles!
Old 10-01-2015, 05:24 PM
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Im guessing you didn't check anything advised, The tech probably noticed something easy and just called it a rebuild.
Old 10-02-2015, 12:53 PM
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The word is in.

The only code that it's throwing is P0750 (Not one of the more common tranny failure codes, but one none the less iirc). I checked everything when I went to the dealership to pay the bill for diagnosis. Unfortunately none of the connectors looked loose or damaged. I even went as far as to pull the battery tray completely out- nothing was out of the ordinary.

The dealership was trying to scam me so bad. Take a look below:

Blue Bolt tranny failure in &lt; 15 minutes-x3it69q.jpg

Allow me to elaborate as to why this is a sheet full of lies and why they are trying to scam for for $5k+:

The timing belt service was done a year ago. It's had about 10,000 miles put on it since. It included the full 105k service and genuine, OE Honda parts were used. The only thing that wasn't done was the tensioner/idler for the alternator / A/C belt.

The power steering fluid is fresh because the rack was just replaced. Since the system was opened up, you'd have to replace the fluid and bleed the system.

The differential seals and rear main seal aren't bad because the car was literally leaking no fluids. It was leaking oil before I got the timing belt done, but it turned out to be the oil pump seal and was fixed in July of 2014.

The air filter was changed 1,000 miles ago with a genuine Honda air filter when I changed the oil.

The suspension components I also know to be good because in the state of Virginia, a vehicle with failed / failing suspension parts does not pass the mandatory annual safety inspection. It passed three weeks ago.

Lastly, how can an ABS module be bad when there was no ABS light on in the dashboard? ABS codes usually throw on the ABS light, no?

In fact the only truthful things on this estimate are the transmission failure and possibly the cabin air filter. I don't know about the latter because I never checked it.

I have all the necessary documents from a reputable service center proving all of this work was done. I have half a mind to report them to the BBB. They must think I'm some kind of idiot... I apologize to all of you who have offered advice and tried to help me out. I've been busy for the past couple of weeks and hadn't had the time to go through this thing myself.

Last edited by Yikes; 10-02-2015 at 01:04 PM.
Old 10-02-2015, 02:27 PM
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Wow! $10k+!! That is insane. And as far as I know, yes I believe you would have dash warning if your ABS was throwing a code. It would get disabled and throw the code so you woukd know. I've had the same thing happen and not just at an Acura dealer but also GM. They've told me fluids needed changing, belts, etc. All within literally weeks or months of me just changing them. Air filters within less than 1k miles of me replacing it and they say it is really clogged. IN my experience, PS fluid usually gets somewhat dark soon after replacing it, even complete flushes. All BS but I guess they figure most folks won't question it.

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Old 10-02-2015, 03:04 PM
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It's all an elaborate scam to get you to sell the car to that tech for $500.
Old 10-02-2015, 03:41 PM
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I'm curious about that P0750. I'm fairly certain that the shift solenoid is unable to operate because the screen is clogged up with clutch material, but wouldn't that come with burnt or dark fluid too?

Perhaps this is a real P0750, or am I delusional?
Old 10-02-2015, 04:32 PM
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$10k? How can they hand you that estimate with a straight face? This dealership deserves to go out of business.

I hope you didn't sell your TL to the tech. Sell it to someone else or try a few small fixes yourself.

I can't find P0750 in the 2000 pages service manual I have. On the net, it is saying it is the shift solenoid A. P0750 Acura Shift Solenoid Valve 'A' Hydraulic Circuit Fault OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com

I think you said you paid $120 for the diagnostic. Do yourself a favor and get a code reader for less than the price of that.

Two things I would do is pop off the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid A/B and see if the filters are clogged and check to see the resistance is within specs and if it 'clicks' when you apply 12v. If it is clogged and you haven't changed the tranny filter, maybe it's time to do so. Then, I suggest heading to the junkyard and find a shift solenoid A and see how it goes.

When my tranny failed at 160,000kms, I changed fluid 12,000kms ago and was still clean and nothing was clogged. Tranny made whining noise too as the problem got worse. I suspect it was the torque converter but I don't know forsure. It was slipping/won't shift, RPM flaring, drops into neutral while driving, etc. It was winter and too cold to play backyard mechanic so I reluctantly took it to my mechanic where they changed the tranny filter for almost $300CAD. They drove almost 50km and said it was okay. BS! I limped home after 5 mins away from them. I am never going to them again. I swapped my tranny with an AV6 in the summer. 1000kms and so far so good.
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Old 10-02-2015, 04:50 PM
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I haven't sold the car yet, in case anyone was wondering.
Old 10-05-2015, 04:43 PM
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I'd take that quote and stick it in a flaming bag of dog sh*t and leave it on their porch. And do NOT sell the car for $500, that dealership is being straight dishonest with you, run away as fast as you can. If you see that tech again I'd get up in his face and ask him if he still thinks you're an idiot. The tech knows he can slip in a new trans and sell it for $2k+.

Regarding the BBB - I've pursued claims with them and it's a pretty serious process if you haven't done it before. You have to really make sure that you have a good claim against their business because if they care about their standing on the BBB you WILL get a response from them.

In your case I think I would submit a complaint with the BBB since they're being so deceptive with you. Here's what I would do:

1) Get quotes for trans rebuild from about 2-3 more shops. Include the prices of the rebuild in your dispute to show that the dealership is trying to take you wrong.
2) If you went in for transmission diagnosis, they shouldn't be throwing on all this other stuff. Rear main seal leaking? The seals are like $20 and they could replace it when the trans is off. F'n ridiculous $77. And I replaced my cabin air filter for $15. Same for the engine air filter. They can take that $55 and buy $45 in lube and a $10 cactus and have at it.
3) They're using intimidation tactics and assumed they could take you for a PS fluid exchange and TB replacement when you KNOW you already did those recently. Imagine if you were some soccer mom with no idea; you'd have paid that with no f'n clue you're being screwed.
4) ABS Control module - again, you didn't bring your car in for the module, it was for the trans. They had no business charging you for diagnostics that you did not tell them to perform.
5) Tell the BBB that you believe this quote was a deception and an intimidation tactic to get you to dump your car for $500, which is WELL below its value, even if it didn't have a transmission at all. The dealer would've fixed it and sold it for WAY more than that.

After the complaint you might be able to get the dealer to waive your diagnostic fee in exchange for you being quiet.
Old 10-09-2015, 03:14 PM
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Why not just have the transmission repaired, like 2k, and be done on your way. I don't know if you can buy a civic or corolla reliably for 2k. If you know its' weakness, don't beat on it, it will last. If you have a tight financial, buying another car is not a better option, unless you are done with v6.
Old 05-22-2017, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ErickUa5
Wiggle the black connector if its loose theres your problem.
I've seen this a lot with a bad front engine mount the black connector smashes on the battery tray until it breaks off and the trans will act up, Eventually going into limp mode.
Yikes did you get the codes ?
Hmmmm, just saw this! My trans went right after I had the front engine mount replaced on my 2003 TL-S. Is it any way possible this is what is causing my trans failure? Can someone describe "limp mode?" Mine just started slipping right after the front engine mount was replaced...I did notice the ground strap was barely connecting with about 3 strands as well.....The car is still at my mechanic.
Old 05-22-2017, 03:36 PM
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I only got about a 105k out of my blue bolt special. Same fate, completely out of nowhere. You gotta locate somebody that does or could do the Honda swap. I never heard of replacing the control module though, maybe I just never heard of it costing $2,677.00. I would just ask yourself if you really like the car and is it in cosmetic condition enough to last at least 2 plus years for you, because you could get about another 200 k out of her with the Accord tranny. I'm on my third tranny at 225K (willow creek in S.C.) and I think I would get the accord swap when she kicks me in the stomach again. (because I am nuts and I still luv her) Another thing to consider is buying a 2003 TLS that is in great cosmetic shape that may have a bad tranny and then do the swap.

Too bad, sorta makes you want to scoop her all up and give her a proper burial somewhere.
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Old 10-25-2018, 03:16 AM
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links dont work now?
Old 10-25-2018, 05:50 AM
  #33  
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Which links?
Old 05-03-2021, 04:08 PM
  #34  
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Same issue as you

Originally Posted by ErickUa5
Post the codes, I recently had the same exact issue with no warning till the D5 was blinking.
Luckily I carry a code reader and came up with a hydraulic problem, immediately I thought well this is it.
I decided to clean up the A/B solenoid located on top of the trans and tested them for actuation all seemed ok, I put it all together start it up the CEL was on, Checked and this time came up with P1750 (Mechanical Problem in Hydraulic Control System of A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid)
Replaced the solenoid with another used one I had laying around, Fixed.
Like yours the fluid was red and no burned smell so there may still be hope.

Its located by the battery tray and looks like this.

I replaced the same part along with the pressure valve solenoid's. I cleaned the filters in the part I replace which is the control valve but there is one below it and I also cleaned that filter. When I went to test drive it did something it has never done. Right when it is about to get to 20 miles it feels like it goes back into first gear which allows it down drastically. It also feels like it it is not getting enough air or something. I thought it was in limp mode but I cleared all the codes and it is still doing the same thing. I feel like this new part I purchased maybe might not be adjusted correctly. Any thoughts?
Old 05-03-2021, 04:24 PM
  #35  
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Same issue as you

Originally Posted by ErickUa5
Post the codes, I recently had the same exact issue with no warning till the D5 was blinking.
Luckily I carry a code reader and came up with a hydraulic problem, immediately I thought well this is it.
I decided to clean up the A/B solenoid located on top of the trans and tested them for actuation all seemed ok, I put it all together start it up the CEL was on, Checked and this time came up with P1750 (Mechanical Problem in Hydraulic Control System of A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid)
Replaced the solenoid with another used one I had laying around, Fixed.
Like yours the fluid was red and no burned smell so there may still be hope.

Its located by the battery tray and looks like this.

I replaced the same part along with the pressure valve solenoid's. I cleaned the filters in the part I replace which is the control valve but there is one below it and I also cleaned that filter. When I went to test drive it did something it has never done. Right when it is about to get to 20 miles it feels like it goes back into first gear which allows it down drastically. It also feels like it it is not getting enough air or something. I thought it was in limp mode but I cleared all the codes and it is still doing the same thing. I feel like this new part I purchased maybe might not be adjusted correctly. Any thoughts?

Old 05-03-2021, 04:29 PM
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2001 Acura 3.2 CL type-s

When buying a new A/T clutch pressure solenoid do you have to adjust both solenoid's or are they already ready to be installed? I'm talking about the control solenoid. The code I was getting was p1750 so I purchased that part installed but now the car downshifts drastically when going into 2 or 3rd. It feels like it might not be getting enough fluid pressure to shift or something.
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