oracion

A couple of days ago the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp", "VSA System Indicator" and "VSA Activation Indicator" all suddenly came up after I was driving the car for about an hour. After a restart, the "VSA System Indicator" and "VSA Activation Indicator" were gone but the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" remained on. I took the car to an autoparts shop and it was showing a troubleshooting code P0470. Does anyone know what does that mean? The car has 158K miles and the tranny was replaced at 60K miles. Thanks for any help in advance!

Skirmich

Are you sure the code isn't P0740?
More likely is the dreaded transmission dying symptoms.

oracion

Double-checked: The diagnostics slip from AutoZone reads "P0470". Good question...maybe I should bring that to another shop to see what code their device will show.

3.2TLc

P0470 = Exhaust pressure sensor malfunction ???

P0740 = Problem within tranny's lock-up control system.

If the CEL comes back on, have a different parts store check the codes.
Other than what was previously mentioned, are there any apparent running problems with motor or tranny ?

01tl4tl

codes with multi lights are usually wrong as far as diagnostics go, at least the lights part of it

was there recent work done on the brakes? or you live near salty-rust prone areas?
How old are the spark plugs? original O2 sensor?

no trans funkiness like shudder between 1-2 or slipping on hill or flashing D5 light on dash?
trans fluid level ckd correct per book- halfway between the dots at specified temp
How does atf look, black, brown, or reddish? smells like atf or like burnt toast?
Ever change the atf?

oracion

It's been a week since the CEL came on. I don't feel anything different. The only "recent" maintenance done was an oil change @ 154K. Nothing unusual noticed.

oracion

No recent work on brakes. 150K service done @ 148K. Spark Plugs replaced @ 126K. Any particular concerns with salty-rust prone areas? The car spent the 1st 11 years at Boston...I guess you can imagine the amount of salt on the road each winter...

The gears seem to shift fine. No flashing D5 since the tranny was replaced a while back.

3.2TLc

Hey Oracion, If the shop reset the PCM and it hasn't come back on since.....it may have been a fluke. Should the car run differently and the code comes back, then the situation may require further attention.

Was there any problems or anything abnormal prior to the lights coming on previously ? Just monitor the way your car acts and feels, especially with colder weather approaching. Consider having the electrical system load tested. Also check all of the electrical connections and grounds.

01tl4tl

I would look at the wheel speed sensors- fronts seem to take a beating in the salt and rust areas of the country
They are the info providers to the TCS ABS systems- a bad sensor would lead to false codes and lights- to get your attention when the car is not sure whats wrong
When ECU is in doubt = lights the dash warnings up!!

oracion

Made a 2nd trip to Autozone this morning and found out it's actually a P0740. Transmission fluid level looks fine. Is there some sort of sensor I can DIY-check?

THANKS to everyone for chiming in!

fsttyms1

Is the code reader reading that code now?

Unfortunately 99.9% of the time, the 740 code is soon followed by trans failure. There is no sensor to check or any diy to eliminate or fix. You can clean the solenoids, and do a 3x3 drain/fill but its just a bandaid that wont last long.

oracion

Oh boy...that doesn't sound good. Anyway I have a service appt set up to check that. More to come.

Skirmich

P0740 = rip transmission.

01tl4tl

thankfully we are no longer at the mercy of acura corp for a replacement

Drop In a used later year (see thread) accord trans for 1000-1500$ total
and drive another 100kmiles

3.2TLc

P0740 = Problem in the Tranny's Lock-up Control System

~Have the tranny's hydraulic line pressure measured.
~Try cleaning or replacing the Lock-up control solenoid assembly set.
~Same thing with the A/T clutch pressure control valve.
~Perform a drain & fill using DW1 fluid, replace inline ATF filter.
~Check ATF fluid level and condition. Reset the PCM to clear old codes.

~Start looking for a donor "AV6" tranny.

oracion

Did some more research and replaced the ATF. The Check engine light was gone immediately. I'll drive around more tomorrow to see how that goes. BTW, replacing the ATF doesn't require the the removal of the engine cover and intake as shown in some YouTube videos for the 2nd gen TL. I only removed the battery and the plastic holder that the battery sits on - that's a 5-minute job.

01tl4tl

to change the ATF on the gen2 TL all you do is loosen the big bolt with ATF stamped on it on top of trans- then remove drain plug under car -marked ATF- with a 3/8" ratchet
That fits into the square cutout in the drain plug
now remove the big bolt on top- its the filler port
some cars may have the recall install external oil jet kit - installed where the filler hole is- just remove the 10mm bolt holding assembly on and pull straight up- add new fluid thru there

Use the Honda DW-1 fluid, it matters

You can reset the ECU= clear all codes, by pulling the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash- or passenger side kick panel on side (differs by year)
after 1 minute insert the fuse and replace cover

That method allows the radio to keep power so you don't have to enter its security code- especially helpful for those new owners who just read that and went- Huh? radio code??