F-003: DIY Steering Wheel Install with detailed pics
#1
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
F-003: DIY Steering Wheel Install with detailed pics
I finally installed the accessory wood-look steering wheel on my RL this morning. It took about an hour and a half, but only because my extra-special 14-month-old helper needed more direction than he thought he would.
vluu posted some pics of his install in another thread, but I thought I would provide a few more detailed pics of my install.
Here goes:
Before....don't forget to unplug the negative battery terminal and wait three minutes to deactivate the airbag....otherwise, POOF!
![](http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/7487/img3713nr5.jpg)
Step 1: Pry on the four retaining tabs and remove the access panel under the steering wheel.
![](http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/337/img3714si2.jpg)
Step 2: Remove by pulling down, then unplug the black horn ground terminal and the yellow airbag connector. The bulky piece of the airbag connector slides, then you pull the connector apart.
![](http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/3135/img3722lt1.jpg)
![](http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/9201/img3725zk9.jpg)
Step 3: Remove the Torx bolts securing the airbag with a Torx 30 bit. Sorry, couldn't get a clear pic of the area. Then pull airbag out. A pair of tweezers will help as the bolts are a bit hard to take out after unscrewing....luckily, I had one. Store the airbag face up (the picture shows it face down, for a moment, to show the actual bag attachments and the associated electronics).
![](http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/1959/img3729yt7.jpg)
![](http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/8969/img3730aq0.jpg)
![](http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/4011/img3731gu0.jpg)
Step 4: Remove steering wheel nut. This is a 19 mm nut and requires some effort. Then, disconnect the 13-pin connector from the cable reel (you won't see the reel until you actually remove the steering wheel).
![](http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/4792/img3732zr6.jpg)
Step 5: Pull the steering wheel off. I actually rented a steering wheel puller, but the wheel came off with only moderate effort, without the puller, and I was able to keep the wheel in the same position it was attached in. The first shot is a comparo shot with the new steering wheel immediately after I pulled the old one off. The next shot is the cable reel, which remains attached to the steering column.
![](http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/1536/img3734ck0.jpg)
![](http://img469.imageshack.us/img469/849/img3735lx9.jpg)
Step 6: Unscrew the self-tapping screws holding the steering body cover to the steering wheel. These screws are almost in a direct line on either side of the 13-pin connector. The body cover takes some effort to come off the steering wheel. Then unscrew the washer screws on the steering dynamic damper, and remove it. The second picture is what the parts look like when off.
![](http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/4694/img37321mn4.jpg)
![](http://img461.imageshack.us/img461/5324/img3737su5.jpg)
Step 7: Remove the ten washer screws fastening the switches and lids to the steering wheel, then remove them. Note: you can only see the first eight easily. The other two are hidden under the shifter tabs. In the picture, the rear of the old steering wheel is toward the camera, and the eight screws are each marked with an "X". For the screws at the top, a tweezer will be REALLY helpful. Also, these screws are pretty soft and may strip easily. I almost stripped one when I used the wrong size of Phillips screwdriver.
![](http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/1711/img3738jl8.jpg)
Step 8: Install the switches and lids to the new steering wheel with the same screws you just removed.
![](http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/6827/img3739fw8.jpg)
Step 9: Reverse the remainder of the steps to reattach the steering wheel. Here's the finished product.
![](http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/4652/img3740az4.jpg)
Shot with Canon PowerShot S3 IS at 2007-08-11
Once everything is attached at the steering wheel, you can reconnect the negative cable to the battery. Once done, honk the horn to verify that the horn works, otherwise partial disassembly is required. Turn the ignition on and make sure the airbag light (looks like profile view of airbag hitting driver) goes off after six seconds (e.g. normal amount of time). Reenter your navi and radio codes. Rev engine to 3000 rpm until radiator fan comes on, then let idle for ten minutes ("PCM idle learn" procedure).
DONE!
I had only two issues with my install. 1) The steering wheel is not perfectly aligned, and is minimally off. I am thinking about disassembly to adjust the steering wheel slightly. Otherwise, I will likely have to visit the dealer for adjustment of the front toe, as noted in the instructions for the steering wheel install. This is something others on this board have noted as well. 2) My driver's seat memory is not working even though I have disengaged and reset the driver 1 keyfob, which is the one I always carry. If it doesn't improve, I'll have to go to the dealer. I'm not sure what this second event had to do with the install. Perhaps a fuse blew? I'll have to investigate tomorrow.
Otherwise, the install is really NOT that complicated. If I had to do it again, it would take only about 30 minutes. BIG THANK YOU to everyone on the board who convinced me I could do this all by myself. If this neurologist, with a mechanical mind but no mechanical ability, can do this, anybody can!
![Big Grin](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Here goes:
Before....don't forget to unplug the negative battery terminal and wait three minutes to deactivate the airbag....otherwise, POOF!
![](http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/7487/img3713nr5.jpg)
Step 1: Pry on the four retaining tabs and remove the access panel under the steering wheel.
![](http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/337/img3714si2.jpg)
Step 2: Remove by pulling down, then unplug the black horn ground terminal and the yellow airbag connector. The bulky piece of the airbag connector slides, then you pull the connector apart.
![](http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/3135/img3722lt1.jpg)
![](http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/9201/img3725zk9.jpg)
Step 3: Remove the Torx bolts securing the airbag with a Torx 30 bit. Sorry, couldn't get a clear pic of the area. Then pull airbag out. A pair of tweezers will help as the bolts are a bit hard to take out after unscrewing....luckily, I had one. Store the airbag face up (the picture shows it face down, for a moment, to show the actual bag attachments and the associated electronics).
![](http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/1959/img3729yt7.jpg)
![](http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/8969/img3730aq0.jpg)
![](http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/4011/img3731gu0.jpg)
Step 4: Remove steering wheel nut. This is a 19 mm nut and requires some effort. Then, disconnect the 13-pin connector from the cable reel (you won't see the reel until you actually remove the steering wheel).
![](http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/4792/img3732zr6.jpg)
Step 5: Pull the steering wheel off. I actually rented a steering wheel puller, but the wheel came off with only moderate effort, without the puller, and I was able to keep the wheel in the same position it was attached in. The first shot is a comparo shot with the new steering wheel immediately after I pulled the old one off. The next shot is the cable reel, which remains attached to the steering column.
![](http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/1536/img3734ck0.jpg)
![](http://img469.imageshack.us/img469/849/img3735lx9.jpg)
Step 6: Unscrew the self-tapping screws holding the steering body cover to the steering wheel. These screws are almost in a direct line on either side of the 13-pin connector. The body cover takes some effort to come off the steering wheel. Then unscrew the washer screws on the steering dynamic damper, and remove it. The second picture is what the parts look like when off.
![](http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/4694/img37321mn4.jpg)
![](http://img461.imageshack.us/img461/5324/img3737su5.jpg)
Step 7: Remove the ten washer screws fastening the switches and lids to the steering wheel, then remove them. Note: you can only see the first eight easily. The other two are hidden under the shifter tabs. In the picture, the rear of the old steering wheel is toward the camera, and the eight screws are each marked with an "X". For the screws at the top, a tweezer will be REALLY helpful. Also, these screws are pretty soft and may strip easily. I almost stripped one when I used the wrong size of Phillips screwdriver.
![](http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/1711/img3738jl8.jpg)
Step 8: Install the switches and lids to the new steering wheel with the same screws you just removed.
![](http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/6827/img3739fw8.jpg)
Step 9: Reverse the remainder of the steps to reattach the steering wheel. Here's the finished product.
![](http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/4652/img3740az4.jpg)
Shot with Canon PowerShot S3 IS at 2007-08-11
Once everything is attached at the steering wheel, you can reconnect the negative cable to the battery. Once done, honk the horn to verify that the horn works, otherwise partial disassembly is required. Turn the ignition on and make sure the airbag light (looks like profile view of airbag hitting driver) goes off after six seconds (e.g. normal amount of time). Reenter your navi and radio codes. Rev engine to 3000 rpm until radiator fan comes on, then let idle for ten minutes ("PCM idle learn" procedure).
DONE!
I had only two issues with my install. 1) The steering wheel is not perfectly aligned, and is minimally off. I am thinking about disassembly to adjust the steering wheel slightly. Otherwise, I will likely have to visit the dealer for adjustment of the front toe, as noted in the instructions for the steering wheel install. This is something others on this board have noted as well. 2) My driver's seat memory is not working even though I have disengaged and reset the driver 1 keyfob, which is the one I always carry. If it doesn't improve, I'll have to go to the dealer. I'm not sure what this second event had to do with the install. Perhaps a fuse blew? I'll have to investigate tomorrow.
Otherwise, the install is really NOT that complicated. If I had to do it again, it would take only about 30 minutes. BIG THANK YOU to everyone on the board who convinced me I could do this all by myself. If this neurologist, with a mechanical mind but no mechanical ability, can do this, anybody can!
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#6
Burning Brakes
![Talking](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gif)
Are you really a neurolgist, Neuronbob? If so, do you use this forum for case studies of behavioral syndromes? My dear wife says I am demented for chatting with unknown persons in cyberspace. However, she watches the Y&R and believes they are like members of our family. Now who is demented?
P.S. Great pics of the steering wheel install, but I do not know if I would want you operating on my head if you couldn't get the steering wheel on straight the first time. Did you check to see if you got all the sponges out of the hub cavity? :-)
P.S. Great pics of the steering wheel install, but I do not know if I would want you operating on my head if you couldn't get the steering wheel on straight the first time. Did you check to see if you got all the sponges out of the hub cavity? :-)
#7
AcurAdmirer
On the issue of steering wheel alignment, isn't there a set of index marks for lining it up? usually, a mark on the steering wheel is aligned to a mark on the steering column spline.
And, if you now go adjust your front wheel alignment to the canted steering wheel, your car will "crab", or go ever-so-slightly sideways down the road, accelerating rear tire wear and negatively affecting handling.
It's just like when getting a regular (front-end) alignment, and the tech doesn't have your steering wheel perfectly straight before loosening the front adjusters. He may have the two front wheels adjust to each other, but they aren't adjusted to the rear wheels. Good argument for a 4-wheel alignment.
.
.
And, if you now go adjust your front wheel alignment to the canted steering wheel, your car will "crab", or go ever-so-slightly sideways down the road, accelerating rear tire wear and negatively affecting handling.
It's just like when getting a regular (front-end) alignment, and the tech doesn't have your steering wheel perfectly straight before loosening the front adjusters. He may have the two front wheels adjust to each other, but they aren't adjusted to the rear wheels. Good argument for a 4-wheel alignment.
.
.
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#8
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Thanks for the comments, guys. Yes, Rex, I'm really a neurologist! I usually do the thinking for neurosurgeons, but luckily am not surgically inclined. ![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
Mike, I've already removed the steering wheel and realigned it a bit more to the right. All is fixed now. Took me less than a half hour now that I know what I'm doing.
I love the thumb rests and the change in decor the wheel provides. In addition, my mother-in-law was in the car for church this morning and commented on the improvement in the interior.
![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
Mike, I've already removed the steering wheel and realigned it a bit more to the right. All is fixed now. Took me less than a half hour now that I know what I'm doing.
I love the thumb rests and the change in decor the wheel provides. In addition, my mother-in-law was in the car for church this morning and commented on the improvement in the interior.
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#9
Thanks
Just wanted to say thanks.
I am replacing the steering wheel button assembly since most of the screen printed text on the buttons have worn off. This how to guide was exactly what I needed. I am hoping I can replace the assembly without having to take the steering wheel off though.
Also, don't forget folks, if you pull the power, you will need to have your radio and NAVI codes available once you reconnect power.
I am replacing the steering wheel button assembly since most of the screen printed text on the buttons have worn off. This how to guide was exactly what I needed. I am hoping I can replace the assembly without having to take the steering wheel off though.
Also, don't forget folks, if you pull the power, you will need to have your radio and NAVI codes available once you reconnect power.
#10
Senior Moderator
You do need to pull the steering wheel to remove the buttons as they are held on by screws in the back. (Step 7 & 8) I suggest locking the steering wheel and using a breaker bar to remove the nut.
#12
Is there any chance to remove front cover of the air bag?
(I want to swap my Legend air bag to Acura one but it is prohibited to carry it on the plane. )
(I want to swap my Legend air bag to Acura one but it is prohibited to carry it on the plane. )
#13
Senior Moderator
I don't believe so. The airbag unit is all one piece since they don't want you screwing something up and then sending them a liability suit.
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Türk (06-02-2014)
#15
Senior Moderator
I can see all but five. Can you see any of them?
#17
Senior Moderator
The first thing to try would be a battery disconnect. Remove both cables from the battery and hold the connections together for ~30 sec. Make sure you have your radio and navigation codes handy before though.
If that doesn't fix it, I would suspect that they didn't connect the harness for the airbag, they damaged the harness, or they damaged the airbag.
If that doesn't fix it, I would suspect that they didn't connect the harness for the airbag, they damaged the harness, or they damaged the airbag.
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