zeta

iTrader: (1)

Props to 'mytran' and his thread regarding this procedure, it was a tremendous help:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...charger+change

I noticed oil residue around the flange seal of my S/C unit recently. When I had the time to investigate further, it turned out to be S/C oil. The oil was not leaking excessively; however, it was clear that the oil was coming from the flange and it had a strange odor to it unlike regular motor oil.

I believe the breach occurred the last time I had the unit off (about 10 months ago) when I adjusted the valves. The unit itself has +45K on it so far.

Like many of you, my car is a daily driver; therefore, I made a command decision to do the repair myself and get on the road quicker rather then sending the unit to Comptech/Magnusson for servicing.

There are a few things that I would like to contibute:

1) When I reattached and subsequently torqued (15ft/lbs)the 'cover' (the piece that has the oil plug) to the S/C 'gear housing', I used a cris cross pattern of tightening the bolts (inside on both sides working outwards) to achieve a uniform fit. I used the same 'cris cross' logic when reattaching the shaft flange to the 'cover'.

2) I let the loctite 548 dry/cure 24 hrs before adding the new S/C oil. Why? I found that the sealant took awhile to harden up sufficently.

3) The loctite 548 was not available locally for me. I ended up getting the 18 gram stick at 'Grainger'. It was $22 shipped.

4) I reinstalled the S/C unit with the 'bracket cover plate' attached and found it to be a little easier. Just be real careful not to over torque the two 8mm bolts that secure the S/C bracket to the cam plate area. It's real tight in there to utilize a torque wrench properly without swivel head sockets.

The car was back on the road in 2.5 days and thus far all is well.

Peace.

rondog

iTrader: (1)

nice. I think mine is due for a change too, but I don't have any leaks. I also got it to work great, that 1 mm helps a ton.

agranado

Hey zeta, nice DIY. What kinda CL do you have and where in SoFLA are you located? Maybe I've seen ya around..

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

We don't spin the blower anywhere near it's peak impeller RPM to warrant the need for frequent oil changes. 50-60k should be the first change unless there is damage or the blower is frequently spun up near it's peak impeller RPM (which would require the 8-9psi pulley) and only a handful of people are doing that.

Accord_V6_400m

iTrader: (1)

I have pictures of the SC oil change, if you want I can send them. I always wanted to make a DIY SC oil change thread. Maybe this will encourage me to do so TRD also has some instructions on how to do this.

Im one of those vouching for more frequent oil changes. Perhaps 15K-20K or once a year. I did mine when I got it over a year ago and the oil was black/green with a sulfuric smell to it.
Needless to say the new GM oil that went in was like whale oil clear and the odor was non-offensive.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Glad to hear that you found that sweet spot in regards to your S/C pulley alignment. I know when I had this problem it drove me crazy until I was able to figure it out/fix it.

My rides a SMR CLS-6. I'm from Broward; however, currently I'm up in Central Florida handling my fathers estate.


When I dismantled the blower, (this was like at 6 or 7pm EST
last Friday) I was careful to drain the remaining oil in order to get an idea of how much was still present in the S/C case. I was able to measure about 5.5 to 6 ounces.

I called Nate at Comptech to find out approximately how much the M62 required just to be safe. He stated that a tech there thought it took around 120 ml; however, they were not sure because they send all their S/C serviceing to Magnusson. 120ml is only 2ml more than 4 ounces (118ml). Anyway he was real helpful and offered to call Mangnasson, but thought they would be closed at that time 4pm PST.

Long story short, I put two GM S/C oil bottles in like 'mytran'. I thought I could always drain a little out if 8 ounces was too much pending any problems.

So far, so good.:

Accord_V6_400m

iTrader: (1)

Pretty much what I did, did you clean the parts by any chance? I used acetone to clean the bearings and what not, to make sure none of the old used oil was still there.

Accord_V6_400m

iTrader: (1)

Here are some of the pics I took back when I was prepping the SC for my J30, wow ... things change

1hotcls6

bump for a good thread

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Update: Since this thread has been bumped .

There has been zero problems with the S/C'er unit since this undertaking. The car is driven hard daily in the FL heat with 50/50 highway and 'stop and go' traffic. The S/C unit, at this point, has 60K miles on it with no dysfunctional / out of the ordinary noises apparent.

1hotcls6

cool, so the loctite was used as a gasket sealer?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Per the Technical Data Sheet:
548™ is designed primarily for flange sealing on rigid flanges, for example on transmissions and cast metalhousings. As with liquid anaerobic products, this material develops its cured properties in the absence of air when confined between close fitting metal surfaces.

Its presence is what forms the all important seal that keeps the supercharger oil from permeating between the machined surfaces of the blower shaft flange/cover/gear housing. The TDS states that it will 'cure' without air (anaerobic) so technically one could make the connections, torque and add the oil. I was pretty liberal with the 548 on the required sealing surfaces and decided to wait 24hrs just to be sure. I did not want to risk having a glob of the residual 548 that squeezes out as a result of the torqueing process inter mix with the oil It's good stuff!

Allout

Note for Reference:

Spoke with Magnusson and the tech I spoke with told me that our MP62 uses 180ml when fully emptied - 6.09 US fluid ounces. He confirmed that GM Supercharger oil is fine to use.